Sold Stanky's Geep - fire sale

[Stanky]

I'm away until thursday now so further updates will have to wait. I've got the battery to put on it which is in considerably better shape than the freecycle bosch jobbie that I've been using so far.

 

I reckon that there is a reasonable chance that the carb is gummed up with varnish considering the state of the fuel pickup so it might be a case of stripping that down and cleaning it thoroughly though I'd have thought it'd have at least coughed with carb cleaner sprayed straight down the barrel - maybe very cold plugs are to blame too. I'll get there!

 

Glad to see people are appreciating the content though, its very enjoyable to muck about with, even in the cold.

 

Oh, another thing I'm after - does anyone have or know where I could get a replacement Girling 74660038 master cylinder? Mine is seized solid and I suspect will need the bore honing and a new piston as well as all the seals and whatnot - though it'd probably be OK as an exchange unit. I checked Girlingauto.com and they don't list anything for it. Apparently they came from 1977 - 1980 escort Mk2's originally.

[320touring]

http://www.powertrackbrakes.co.uk

 

May be worth a shout? Alternatively sure you could fit a remote master cylinder as used in rally cars (bound to be a MK2 scrote one available from http://www.rallydesign.co.uk)

[Skizzer]

Past Parts (http://www.pastparts.co.uk/) would refurb but it'll take a few weeks. AngryDicky is our man on the inside (or possibly vice versa )

[Squirrel2]

Slightly off-topic, but a case of ‘it ran fine when I last drove it’ followed by a refusal to start has brought to mind a tale told me by a colleague some time ago:

He lived in a cul-de-sac near the river in Worcester, and was annoyed by constantly being blocked in his house by anglers inconsiderately parking their cars to go fishing on a Sunday morning. He got his own back by squirting expanding foam up the tailpipe of one such car, and even went to the trouble of spraying black aerosol paint over the bung to disguise it. After hours of frustration on the part of the driver and even the AA patrol called in the attempt to get it going, the FTP meant that the thing had to be eventually towed away.

 

At our local garage, on one visit, there was a Corsa chugging away in the corner obviously running with no exhaust attached. On enquiring what was wrong with it the mechanic said that it had been dragged in dead and refusing to start. The fault? A totally blocked catalyst.

 

May be worth checking there’s no wasp’s nest up the Geep’s tailpipe?

 

Squirrel2

[Parky]

Rosewood had a similar problem - here he is with Detective Foley who is explaining the possible non start could be a banana in the tailpipe.....

[dollywobbler]

Still sounds ignition to me. Easy start should at least get you a sniff of action, even if the carb is a bit icky.

[danthecapriman]

I'm away until thursday now so further updates will have to wait. I've got the battery to put on it which is in considerably better shape than the freecycle bosch jobbie that I've been using so far.

 

I reckon that there is a reasonable chance that the carb is gummed up with varnish considering the state of the fuel pickup so it might be a case of stripping that down and cleaning it thoroughly though I'd have thought it'd have at least coughed with carb cleaner sprayed straight down the barrel - maybe very cold plugs are to blame too. I'll get there!

 

Glad to see people are appreciating the content though, its very enjoyable to muck about with, even in the cold.

 

Oh, another thing I'm after - does anyone have or know where I could get a replacement Girling 74660038 master cylinder? Mine is seized solid and I suspect will need the bore honing and a new piston as well as all the seals and whatnot - though it'd probably be OK as an exchange unit. I checked Girlingauto.com and they don't list anything for it. Apparently they came from 1977 - 1980 escort Mk2's originally.

 

If I remember right from seeing it, your master cylinder looks very similar if not the same as my mk2 Capri one. You can get new single circuit (mk1 Capri style) master cylinders and later mk3 Capri style ones but not the one in between like yours and mine!

I tried everywhere for a new one for my Capri a few years ago and got absolutely nowhere. The only thing available is a recon kit, which I got but mine needed fully reconditioning due to rust inside so I sent it off to a specialist. Got it back looking like new and it's worked fine since.

[Stanky]

Thanks Dan - what was the rough cost for the refurb? Sheffcortinacentre has said much the same via PM and suggested a Mk3 cortina one instead with the front brakes (which are separate circuits currently) joined in a t-piece as the Cortina master cylinder only has connections for two circuits (front and rear I think).

 

Its not a huge amount of work to do that, but would be interested in comparative costs for a refurb of what I have vs a replacement part. Not too bothered how long it takes though.

[danthecapriman]

The later Cortina type is the same as the mk3 Capri type, I believe. It's got the extra circuit ability (safety) the early ones didn't have. Yours does sound the same as mine tbh.

The rebuild kit was really cheap, I think it came off eBay. I can't remember how much mine cost to get rebuilt but it wasn't an offensive figure!

For me, I wanted to keep my engine bay looking original (because I'm sad like that!) but on yours that wouldn't really matter as, being a kit car it could in theory have had that part from built anyway depending on the original donor car.

The later type are the better safer option tbh, and it's probable you might get one new or refurbished at a decent price then a few mods to your brake lines. Chances are there won't be much in it cost wise whichever option you choose.

 

Edit;

thinking about it, I'll have the receipt for my rebuild in my cars history folder. After work tomorrow I'll have a look for it and see what it cost. At least then you can make a more informed decision which way to go with it.

[stuboy]

i want a geep now.

[danthecapriman]

Thanks Dan - what was the rough cost for the refurb? Sheffcortinacentre has said much the same via PM and suggested a Mk3 cortina one instead with the front brakes (which are separate circuits currently) joined in a t-piece as the Cortina master cylinder only has connections for two circuits (front and rear I think).

 

Its not a huge amount of work to do that, but would be interested in comparative costs for a refurb of what I have vs a replacement part. Not too bothered how long it takes though.

I found my old receipt. Mine cost me £115 total (parts and labour etc) to have the old cylinder fully stripped, cleaned, and rebuilt with new seals etc. Came back painted too... basically it's like a new one.

 

Mine was done by a well known Capri specialist though. If you found a local place or someone like BiggRed who do their own machining and rebuilds it'll be cheaper.

[Mally]

i want a geep now.

 

Go and have a lie down.

[nigel bickle]

Try Speedy Spares, in Portslade, Brighton. I'd wager they'll have one, or a refurb kit. Say hello to Sarah, for me!

 

Or Classic Car Spares (Howard, prep of Sipson, now Hounslow). Again, I'd expect him to be holding-albeit at a higher price.

[Eddie Honda]

Or Classic Car Spares (Howard, prep of Sipson, now Hounslow).

Mr Robinson's place is called Collectors Car Spares, IIRC.

 

I RONG

 

Collectors Car Parts. Recent Google review queries if he's still trading or not.

[mitsisigma01]

Or Google pattern parts ... would this fit

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F232020438793

[SiC]

Still sounds ignition to me. Easy start should at least get you a sniff of action, even if the carb is a bit icky.

+1

 

Just quickly skimmed through the thread to catch up. However as DW said, if there is a spark and at the correct time it'll try running. It's looking like now that it's the root cause of my MGB not running - not the carb.

 

Double check the points condition, the point gap, rotor arm+cap condition and static timing. Also check that you're getting a good spark.

 

A ignition timing light if you can borrow one should help a lot. I don't have one, but it would have told me pretty quickly that my ignition was off and saved me a fair bit of time. I'd checked all the above (apart from point condition, as access is difficult on the MGB) but still didn't run until I swapped the dizzy to a new one. Timing light would have diagnosed it.

[Guest Hooli]

Even without a timing light it's a doddle to check static timing on a points engine with a test lamp. Connect it from the coil (earth side I think) to earth & with the ignition on the lamp goes out as soon as the points open.

If you've got the engine set to the timing marks then twiddle the dizzy until as you advance it it's just before the light goes out (when the light goes out, turn it back a smidge) & it'll good enough to run fine. Millions of cars only ever got set this way before timing lights were popular.

[SiC]

Even without a timing light it's a doddle to check static timing on a points engine with a test lamp. Connect it from the coil (earth side I think) to earth & with the ignition on the lamp goes out as soon as the points open.

If you've got the engine set to the timing marks then twiddle the dizzy until as you advance it it's just before the light goes out (when the light goes out, turn it back a smidge) & it'll good enough to run fine. Millions of cars only ever got set this way before timing lights were popular.

But static timing won't tell you that the timing is jumping all over the place when the engine is turning over though. Which was the problem with mine.

[Guest Hooli]

No it won't. But then you like to have odd problems

[1duck]

how about getting one of those electronic ignition things and binning the points, do they do an powerspark/accuspark for that engine? i'd guess they do, after all it's pretty much just a magnet, i found that it gave a much stronger fatter spark. That said it would cost about 30 quid, that's a hell of an investment on a free car.

[Stanky]

Further updates with new* batteries!

 

Today my battery terminal adapters arrived in the post, so I set to fitting them to the ends of the positive and negative leads so i can fit a modern battery with cylindrical posts without the use of mole grips.Here they are

 

 

I got out the needle file which is fast becoming my most useful tool and enlarged the holes in the terminals  so the bolts would fit

 

 

then I realised I'd fitted them the wrong way up, so I undid them and fitted them the right way up

 

 

And attached them to the battery terminals. So far, so good.

 

Next up was to see if they were making a good connection, the ignition and oil lights illuminated which was a good sign so i tried turning the engine over. As ever, it churned but didn't fire. This is getting repetitive and annoying.

 

Next I popped off the dizzy cap and rotor arm and gave the terminals a clean up with some sandpaper before refitting them, then tried again. Still no dice.

 

By this point I'd flattened the battery so i got the other one and put battery #1 on charge. When I fitted this I noticed I'd forgotten to reconnect the king lead. Idiot.

 

 

With this reconnected, I tried again and still it just churned away without firing. The exhaust pipe smelled of petrol and the plugs were wet when i removed them, so its deinitely getting fuel. I decided to try what a few others have suggested and put the plugs in the oven for a bit while my wife was still asleep

 

 

I baked them for 30 mins while the battery was on fast charge, quickly fitted them (and burned my fingers as expected!) and tried again. When refitting them i noticed the spark plug leads seemed twisted and realised I'd refitted the dizzy cap 180 degrees out. Double idiot. I refitted it correctly and tried again.

 

Still churning, but no firing. Exhaust smells petrolly so I'm reaonably sure its as others have suggested and a spark problem. I need the batteries to recharge and I'll pop a plug out and see if it is sparking next, but its just started sleeting here so I'll wait til thats died down a bit before going back out.

 

So now I'm not sure if it is that the leads are in the dizzy cap in the wrong order, or the timing is way out. How can I check this? The points are opening and closing when it gets cranked over, and a spark seems to be being delivered, just not at the right time.

[Rusty_Rocket]

Great progress, but that positive lead so close to that metal bar would be freaking me out!

[dollywobbler]

It's a valid point.

 

Regarding timing, if the distributor hasn't moved since it last ran, then the ignition timing should be ok. It doesn't need to be spot on for it to fire up. I was told this on the Invacar thread, and people were right. I've slightly lost track but have you fitted new points and condenser and are the points correctly gapped?

[Christine]

Mix up cure assuming the points opening  and timing is about   right

 

King lead attached..... take all leads off the plugs,  except for  1 , leave connected to a plug and the dizzy cap  .  (Any  one, it doesn't matter)

Crank engine .. nothing? Remove lead from plug and fit to another plug

crank engine ..nothing ?  remove lead from plug and fit to different plug 

crank engine ..nothing ?  remove lead from plug and fit to different plug 

crank engine  brr brrr brrr pop brr brrr brrr pop . This cylinder is for this plug lead !!!

 

Fit another plug lead to another plug  fit other end into any of the 3 empty holes in the dizzy

crank engine . Same method ..get 2 plugs firing

 ...then 3

 

and the last plug lead must fit the 4th plug !  

[Mally]

That will work providing plugs are not too wet to spark.

 

Another way, Remove all plugs, press your finger/thumb over No1 plug hole tightly and turn the engine clockwise using a socket on the crank pulley..

When it blows air past your finger that is compression stroke on no1. Poke long screwdriver into No 1 plug hole and turn crank until piston is right at the top.

At this point No1 plug lead at the dizzy cap end should be lined up with the rotor arm if you take the cap off.

Determine which way the rotor arm turns when engine is turned clockwise. leads in cap should follow according to firing order, and go to the appropriate plug.

It's much easier to do than it is to explain how to do it.

I feel I may be confusing matters.

 

Am not a fan of baking whole plugs, just hold the gap over a gas flame.

[Guest Hooli]

 or the timing is way out. How can I check this?

 

See my earlier post about static timing with a test lamp. Then you just need the leads in the right order.

[Stanky]

Thanks Chaps - Batteries are on charge currently (see what I did there?) so I'll have a go later on. 

 

DW - coil and condenser are original ones, I've not touched anything to do with them as someone advised that since I was getting a spark at the king lead they were both most likely in good shape. I do have spares if needed, and see how they connect up now, having had the dizzy cap off.

 

I'll try Christine's idea next I think - I can get my head around doing that.

 

Sorry for the ongoing incompetence!

[Stanky]

Right, my helpful neighbour who confirmed 100% that there was a spark jumping from the king lead to the manifold when I cranked it over with a bit of metal stuck in the end was 100% wrong.

 

My daughter cranked the car over while I checked a spark plug to see if it was sparking and nada. So next I popped the king lead out the dizzy cap, inserted the bit of metal I have for such tasks, leaned it so it sat just off the clean metal of the manifold and she cranked it again.

 

Nothing, no spark, not a sausage. it was semi-dark too so should have been obvious if it was sparking.

 

So, step back 3 spaces.

 

We know the coil is good - but I'm still suspicious that there is a wire not connected.. The coil has a black and yellow wire on the positive terminal, a king lead on the king lead terminal and a green and purple wire from the negative which goes down to the condenser under the dizzy cap. The black and yellow wire is NOT plugged into anything at the other end.

 

 

This is the solenoid. The red wire coming in from top left connects to the battery positive terminal. The red wire going down under the washer bottle goes to the starter motor. You can see the black and yellow wire with a rubber boot end lying on the chassis next to the suspension turret. What should this be connected to? I think this needs to deliver 12v to the low-tension side of the coil, in order to deliver a spark from the king lead, or am I totally wrong? There is nothing obvious that this should connect to - I'd look at snipping the end off and crimping an eyelet to it and attach to one of the copper terminals of the solenoid, but which one? Or does it not matter? I think it should connect to the one the battery connects to, so it delivers 12v to the positive side of the coil all the time?

 

Sorry if I am being massively dense, but it makes sense in my head. At least now I know why the engine isn't firing - no spark is getting to the dizzy cap. I shan't ask my neighbour to check things for me in future.

[bezzabsa]

you asked the original owner? he may have done stuff and MAY remember???

[Stanky]

He can't recall - only that it did run about 12 months ago. The wire is helpfully labelled 'UNKNOWN?' at the end I think should be plugged in, but labelled 'coil LT' at the coil end.

 

The coil needs power doesn't it? Currently there is power out via the king lead, and power out to the condenser from the negative side, but no power in to the positive side?