Rustproofing surface corrosion

[DodgeRover]

+1 vactan, scrape worst of rust off, spray on to neutralise rust, overcoat if you must or repeat annually.

 

spray it on, thin with water I have heard but with a big nozzle spray gun I had no issues applying it. Under car after 24h is now black converted rust with white blotches, will monitor progress but reviews are good.

 

spraying anything over rust that doesnt neutralise or convert rust is like setting fire to money in my opinion.

 

have lots of cavity products from rustbuster for box sections. BUT didnt stop sills rotting out on Range Rover over next couple of years. BUT they were original steel sills nearly 25 years old on a daily all year round driver. so I would say successage

I would say the vactan will have washed off in areas prone to water spray within 6 weeks. That's based on painting it on a bit of surface rust on a flat body panel on the top side of my van. It definitely needs over painting or it's a waste of time.

[Vince70]

I pressure washed the underside of the car today not that it really needed it as it only does about 800 miles a year and that’s summer use only and the last time I was underneath it was about a year ago and when I wash it I always do the underside of the car when cleaning it.

 

The thing is I haven’t got a ramp but crawling underneath I couldn’t see the “considerable surface corrosion” as it still looked as good as new to me and was covered in the waxoyl I put on last year but maybe I’m missing something.

 

Only the previous year the Mot inspector remarked that it was fantastic condition underneath so I think I might need to get the thing in the air for a look but here’s some pictures after pressure washing it.

The sills etc are also still like new but I’ve bought the dynex now but I’m sure I will use it anyway either on that or the compact or cabriolet E36

[dome]

I've gone for aerosol Dynax UB, 3 cans of. Hopefully enough to do the S4. Plan is jack it up on Thursday and jetwash it then wire brush and treat with red oxide/rust convertor as necessary and whack on some Dynax. Will report back...

[Pat Earrings]

Ah I didn't think of that. Would people advise a coat of rust converter prior to Dynax, or is it fine to wire brush and coat it with Dynax after?

[mat_the_cat]

The only difference between front and rear wheel was that the latter accumulated some amount of "fling" - i.e. very small splats of lubricant from the chain. I always and only ever use EP90 (thick gear oil) to lube chains. I couldn't fathom for a moment that this was causing corrosion or pitting. Surely if anything it would be creating a barrier between metal and moisture? Yet oxidation was clearly happening.

 

I can well believe the gear oil was a contributor - an EP oil will likely contain sulphur, which is corrosive to steel, and probably more so to any zinc plating on the spokes. Another mechanism could be that steel particles from the wear of the chain will cause local galvanic corrosion of the zinc plating, thinning it and potentially allowing corrosion of the underlying steel.

 

Engine oil? I have used it in the past, and found that it seems to provide a barrier to moisture for a few weeks to months, depending on the level of rainfall. Makes it a bugger to work on and remain clean though. I've really found Waxoyl of very limited benefit though, which is borne out by this guy's trials:

https://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?287293-Flooding-sills-and-chassis-to-stop-rust&p=3253116&viewfull=1#post3253116

 

I've been using BH Dynax of different types for the last 4 years including on top of light corrosion and rate it pretty highly so far. Still early days yet though! I would treat any air drying treatment as something which requires reapplication every few years, but appreciate that may not be relevant if you're just trying to get a few more years life from a car.

 

Brush or spray - spray, especially if a jet pattern will get better penetration into seams. Thinning helps, but remember that the more you thin it, the less solids in the final coating all else being equal, so the less protection it will offer. Far better to heat it before application.

[Shirley Knott]

 

 

I've been using BH Dynax of different types for the last 4 years including on top of light corrosion and rate it pretty highly so far. Still early days yet though! I would treat any air drying treatment as something which requires reapplication every few years, but appreciate that may not be relevant if you're just trying to get a few more years life from a car.

 

Brush or spray - spray, especially if a jet pattern will get better penetration into seams. Thinning helps, but remember that the more you thin it, the less solids in the final coating all else being equal, so the less protection it will offer. Far better to heat it before application.

 

Completely agree with your spray vs brush analogy.

 

There's nothing quite like firing the Bilthamber products out of a shutz gun at some serious PSI  When I've used the Dynax S50 to cavity wax the inside of sills etc, upon removing a bung at the back end and poking the gun in and letting rip you can literally see huge clouds of atomised wax emerging out of the other side of the car six feet away, it makes you feel confident the wax will have worked it's way into all of the nooks and crannies. Difficult if not impossible to achieve that with an aerosol I recon.

 

RE having to re-apply every few years it really depends on how the car is used I think. These pics of my old '89 Eunos show it several years after initial UB treatment. I took these pictures as part of the 'for sale' advert and IMO despite being a few years on the cover was still spot on. Applying more product at that stage would have been unnecessary IMO although admittedly the car only saw dry use...

 

 

[steveo3002]

look ma , its all black so it must be good eh?

 

[Mally]

Do it then wait for next m.o.t and see if there's an advisory about an oil leak

 

I know him well enough that there won't be.

Anyway according to others it will all have washed off well before then.

[sierraman]

How far you go with these things depends what you are rustproofing, if it’s a money no object restoration then you want the best, but on a 15 year old car a coat of Waxoyl and some stonechip will probably see the car doesn’t want welding until something else kills it.

[Shirley Knott]

look ma , its all black so it must be good eh?

 

 

 

Obviously not.

 

I don't think anyone's trying to claim that just because things are black in colour that they are all good are they? Either way I think you've made your point, I'm sure we all realise that spraying underseal over stuff that's already rotten is pointless but I don't think that's what this thread's about really is it? You need to rustproof a vehicle before it actually rusts to any real extent, that's a given. 

 

I don't have many pics to hand and frankly life's too short to try and dig them all out, but here's one of the Mazda posted above's inner arch area taken to show the condition before treatment...

 

 

I took lots of the underside and other areas of interest before any Dynax got near it as although I loved the car I knew one day I may sell it, that way potential buyers could see what they were actually getting and had evidence I'd not just sprayed black gloop over the top of a rusty mess to hide things

[steveo3002]

not a dig at you , but i think many dont realise whats going on

 

thick black goop looks just the same painted over wet untouched scabs as it does over hours of thorough prep

 

just becuase its hidden doesnt mean its fixed  

[Shirley Knott]

not a dig at you , but i think many dont realise whats going on

 

thick black goop looks just the same painted over wet untouched scabs as it does over hours of thorough prep

 

just becuase its hidden doesnt mean its fixed  

 

I think most folks here probably get that

[Honey Badger]

How far you go with these things depends what you are rustproofing, if it’s a money no object restoration then you want the best, but on a 15 year old car a coat of Waxoyl and some stonechip will probably see the car doesn’t want welding until something else kills it.

No that's not the only consideration, the time it takes to rustproof the car and how messy and shitty your going to get doing it is also a consideration and while an aerosol can of Dynax costs more you more you use less as it covers better and your not covering the car and everything else within a meter in  overspray and drips, it's an added bonus that it has better performance.

 

You have your system and it works for you and I'm not trying to change your mind, but cost shouldn't be the only driver.

[Vince70]

I got my two cans of Dynax yesterday direct from the manufacturer and it arrived the following day after ordering and it was very well packed so I’m impressed with the delivery and it comes with an instruction sheet on prep etc so I’m impressed.

So now it’s just a matter of getting underneath the car to pour it into my hair and eyes lol.

[dome]

I got my two cans of Dynax yesterday direct from the manufacturer and it arrived the following day after ordering and it was very well packed so I’m impressed with the delivery and it comes with an instruction sheet on prep etc so I’m impressed.

So now it’s just a matter of getting underneath the car to pour it into my hair and eyes lol.

Yup, me too. S4 is getting jacked up and jetwashed tonight in preparation for attacking it tomorrow

[Sir Snipes]

I use to hate working on cars that had recently been undersealed on the cheap. Black gloop lashed on to absolutely everything. When I did my s12 I had removed the rear subframe to do bushes etc so I got it really well sealed with the Bilt Hammer spray tins without getting it all over the Suspension etc.

[Pat Earrings]

Mine arrived yesterday. Just need to find the time and a warmish day to get under it and start spraying.

[sierraman]

Does rustproofing really need adding everywhere though? It only really needs adding on the prone areas. Pasting it on the floors is pointless if they rarely rot there.

[dome]

Fuck me, this is hard work. Usual mission creep applies, I've taken the exhaust off and all the heat shields to do behind them also the side skirts to check the sills. Weather today has stopped play, 2nd coat of Dynax and then I can start putting it back together.

[richardthestag]

I would say the vactan will have washed off in areas prone to water spray within 6 weeks. That's based on painting it on a bit of surface rust on a flat body panel on the top side of my van. It definitely needs over painting or it's a waste of time.

 

I take your point but it is not what vactan folk say.

 

I have shutz'd over the top of the converted rust now that all is black and there are no white blotches . I probably sprayed the vactan too thick and slowed the conversion process.

 

Over the years I have found that it is best to treat bare metal rather than continue to spray gloop over gloop. The staaaag was stripped off, one arch at the time when I first got it. Under undamaged solid plastic type heavy duty underseal was a fair amount of surface rust. in many places the underseal had not stuck to the steel in any way whatsoever.

 

for new steel, it is cleaned back to bare and a very thick coat of epoxy primer is applied. covered with shutz or wax

 

for old steel I try to clean back to bare metal. if not possible I at least make sure that the protection has stuck to the steel. Once I have bare metal vactan and shutz or products like por15? I dont know. When I find out I will let folk know.  

[DodgeRover]

Vactan does say it needs to be over painted with something other than cellulose, well my bottle did anyway, maybe it's an old recipe?

Definitely just washes off in time if not.

[Pat Earrings]

Apparently it's going to rise to almost 25 degrees this week. Ideal time for me to get under and start spraying.

[Des]

The only wax rustproofers I've had any success with have been rattle cans, bought plenty of proper treatments and not one has been the slightest help as they're all sat in a shed, fuck that messy shit for a game of soldiers. The spray cans get to be used and beat good intentions easily.

Vactan is awesome, this is a picture of some Datsun.

 

 

It sprouted a hole too big for a bit of tape and I carried out a disgustingly lazy and rushed patch job, put less time into it than cutting my toenails and sploshed on some Vactan, this was 3 or maybe more years ago and look at it now. Someday I'll bare metal a car and spray it in the stuff. 

[They_all_do_that_sir]

Considering doing the w203 before winter properly sets in as I think it's a keeper.

 

Stupid question but do you just paint everything? Suspension parts etc??

 

Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk

[dome]

Considering doing the w203 before winter properly sets in as I think it's a keeper.

 

Stupid question but do you just paint everything? Suspension parts etc??

 

Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk

 

 

I probably went a bit far-I removed the arch liners, exhaust, exhaust heatshields, and side skirts before I did mine. The Dynax UB is kinda see through so you can use it on suspension parts, it doesn't hide anything. Obviously shield off bushings/bolts etc.

 

I'll stick up some pics when I'm next under it.

[DodgeRover]

Considering doing the w203 before winter properly sets in as I think it's a keeper.

 

Stupid question but do you just paint everything? Suspension parts etc??

 

Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk

What were you thinking of applying? Wax I would squirt into every cavity you can access, it can also be lathered on underneath but will want redoing in time on a car driven daily. Remove body kits, sill covers etc and blast behind those too,

[dome]

I've updated my thread with pics, this should take you there

 

http://autoshite.com/topic/24616-domes-shonky-autos-s4-upgrades-and-underseal/page-34?do=findComment&comment=1629650

 

As you'll see my coverage looked OK in the limited light under the car until I got the camera flash onto it-make sure you have a LOT of light to make sure you're getting the coverage. I've put another coat on now, will check it again to make sure it's OK

[tooSavvy]

THIS is just on order:-

 

 

https://fuze-products.co.uk/shop/rust-converter-ferprime-black

£9.95 + £3 post Amazon

 

I have inner void wax treatment (several spraycans) and have done the inner/rear sill + lower arch "achilles heel" but want to do the floor/sill edges and all the pipes/fuel filler and suspension ironmongery

[Mally]

I hope they send the right one.