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I've just noticed that petrol prices often end with .7 - until a week or so ago, I was paying 116.7, then whilst I was in the middle of filling up i was annoyed to notice that the Sainsbury's pump was priced at 122.7, and subsequently noticed Asda were charging 120.7.

 

Anyone know if there's any significance to the .7 and why all the garages seem to do it?   Is it just psychological like prices ending in 99p, in that it doesn't look much more than .5, but seems much less than .9, or is there more to it (e.g there being some obscure tax thing that makes it worthwhile)?

 

'Tis to do with outwitting bots that scan fuel prices then update sites like " Git yer cheepo fuel here".   A price of $120.7 automatically wins over to a price of $120.9 in the listings so if you do an online search for cheapest fuel it'll show at the top - but only works till everyone does it.

 

I is not no Psychologist.

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Can anyone recommend a good petrol-proof glue / sealant.

I bought a new petrol pump for the Maxi from Ebay (Moprod branded) and when fitted it leaked from the outlet pipe.

After removing it again and inspecting it I discovered that both the brass pipe stubs were only a finger-tight fit in the alloy pump housing. Presumably they should be pressed in and there is no trace of any glue or sealant on any of the parts. I messaged the seller asking them to replace it and they replied very promptly, but unfortunately don't have any more in stock, and even if they had they may all have the same problem. They immediately refunded the money and didn't ask for it to be returned, so I am wondering if I can repair it.

 

20190420_173028.jpg

 

So what I need is a glue or sealant which will fix the brass pipes into the alloy housing and provide a petrol-proof seal. I thought of some variant of Loctite (maybe bearing fit) or Araldite, but don't know if either of these are resistant to petrol.

 

Anyone have any better ideas?

 

TIA for any suggestions.

Hylomar Blue.

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My acadiane has no glass currently fitted.... Because I removed It. The window rubbers are the type with an insert that is pushed into a channel on the outside. What's the best way / correct way to refit the windows? should the rubber be fitted to the panel, and then the glass inserted or should I do the normal way of strong cord around the rubber channel and work my way around?

 

 

I managed to get one side window in, but the other side is tougher and the rear door windows harder still!

 

Place the rubbers in very hot water, to soften them, for five minutes before trying to fit.

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My acadiane has no glass currently fitted.... Because I removed It. The window rubbers are the type with an insert that is pushed into a channel on the outside. What's the best way / correct way to refit the windows? should the rubber be fitted to the panel, and then the glass inserted or should I do the normal way of strong cord around the rubber channel and work my way around?

I managed to get one side window in, but the other side is tougher and the rear door windows harder still!

Get some hellerine oil, it’s what sparkies use to get cables through voids and channels and makes life so much easier. And it's paint and rubber friendly.
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My dad has the misfortune of owning a 2005 Renault Clio 1.2 (8v). In recent months it had developed a misfire that was rectified with a dosing of WD40. All seemed well with this fix* until last weekend when the misfire reared it’s lumpy head again.

This Saturday I changed the coil pack, leads and plugs (well overdue it looked, on the plug front at least) to no avail, still stuttering like George VI on the throttle and flatter than a fenland horizon.

Not one to give up, I removed, inspected, discarded and replaced with a new ‘un, the crank position sensor. I was ecstatic to discover that this had done sod all to the misfiring Clio.

 

So, dear shiters, my question is this: Any ideas what could be causing this miss?

 

Ta very much for your time.

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My dad has the misfortune of owning a 2005 Renault Clio 1.2 (8v). In recent months it had developed a misfire that was rectified with a dosing of WD40. All seemed well with this fix* until last weekend when the misfire reared it’s lumpy head again.

This Saturday I changed the coil pack, leads and plugs (well overdue it looked, on the plug front at least) to no avail, still stuttering like George VI on the throttle and flatter than a fenland horizon.

Not one to give up, I removed, inspected, discarded and replaced with a new ‘un, the crank position sensor. I was ecstatic to discover that this had done sod all to the misfiring Clio.

So, dear shiters, my question is this: Any ideas what could be causing this miss?

Ta very much for your time.

MAF? TPS? (But may not have one depending on MAF arrangement), dirty injector/ injectors? Cam belt/ chain jumped a tooth? Might be worth chucking a bottle of injector cleaner in and giving it an Italian tune as a first (and cheap) step.
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I've just noticed that petrol prices often end with .7 - until a week or so ago, I was paying 116.7, then whilst I was in the middle of filling up i was annoyed to notice that the Sainsbury's pump was priced at 122.7, and subsequently noticed Asda were charging 120.7.

 

Anyone know if there's any significance to the .7 and why all the garages seem to do it? Is it just psychological like prices ending in 99p, in that it doesn't look much more than .5, but seems much less than .9, or is there more to it (e.g there being some obscure tax thing that makes it worthwhile)?

They used to all end in .9 and most still do. Asda introduced .7 to look cheaper than Tesco and are the only place I’ve ever seen with it

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My friend bought a Fezza last week. I am driving it back to Hull. However she doesn't have her licence back yet (due first week of May for medical reasons)

 

But if she gets her normal fully comp on it and I drive it using my fully comp (third party) am I OK if it gets walloped? Or will they invalidate due to her non-licence?

 

Or... Do I get temp cover on top?

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This may be a very stupid question but I want to double check things.

 

I got a replacement water pump for the Corolla. The book of much stupidness from Uncle Haynes says fit the pump with 3Bond 1282B, torque up and let set for 2 hours before filling up.

 

The pump is fitted with a rubber o-ring seal. The book doesn't mention the pump being fitted with any seal or gaskets, has no photos of this procedure and as I'm more a learn through pictures/learn through doing than learn through words type of guy I'm struggling to picture it.

 

Do I need the sealant as well as the supplied seal, or am I just being a dumbass?

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Faer Lady-C and I are due to depart on our holiday (Monday 29/4 in case you wanted to know) and I am considering purchasing Breakdown cover, what a pessimist.

I inputted my details into Money Supermarket and the result of that brought forward the offerings of Breakdown Assist.

I have never heard of these folk before but am drawn to their price (£45.99 for national recovery).

Have any fellow shiters had experience of this bunch?

Shall I expect to “get what I pay for “?

Could any of you venerable souls recommend a Breakdown Recovery service provider that you would happily sit in your car on a foggy hard shoulder and wait for?

 

Thank you all immensely.

 

P.S. Please forgive me if there’s already a (multitude of) thread posing this very question, a brief sift failed to unearth one. Ta again.

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Are they one of those companies where you pay up front for recovery and then claim back off them so that you are not waiting hours for the only AA/RAC* other services are available van within 50 miles to reach you as they send a local independent recovery crew?

GEM do this for a reasonable price I believe although I haven't used them for a few years.

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.

Interstate car transport &/or transatlantic Shipping

 

Anyone with (relatively recent) experience, recommendations, contacts ?

 

I want to get a non-runner car (with a big roof rack) from a Rebel State / mid north America to hereabouts in Blighty

 

. . . cheaply as poss

Thanks,

 

Bfg

 

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