cort16 Posted November 9, 2018 Posted November 9, 2018 What do you recon the chances of me getting 4 grand for my Cortina are? I don't use it and if I'm honest (don't tell anyone) I've had way more fun in my Z4 than I have had in this even though I love looking at it. Prices are all over the place. Plus: MOT and Tax exempt but MOT'd until May next year.2 doorconverted to 2.0 pinto race car/transit van engine5 speed boxmega scene tax fishnet recaro seatsnew water pump and fuel pumpelectronic ignitionMostly solid.New subframe bushes and all the other ones that are a bastard to replacenew -1 springs Minus.Paint is shite in places, grinder rust in bonnet and I make a complete dogs breakfast of painting the wing and doorNeeds new shockshas had quite a lot of welding.Is a shit to start sometimesInterior is a bit crapHas the wrong 1.3 diff in it I wonder if it's worth spending a few hundred quid and getting the paint fixed properly? True to form here's a completely out of date picture drivewaymyway 1
Floatylight Posted November 9, 2018 Posted November 9, 2018 Saw a new RAC towing system today, as per pic, do we know if this sort of system can be used to transport or just for recovery, seems like a good solution for those without storage for a transporter trailer.. Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk Nicola H 1
Mrcento Posted November 9, 2018 Posted November 9, 2018 Shit, dangerous Chinese design with crap quality parts. I bet there isn't even a proper fuse in it either. Looks like something in the bottom left corner - picture doesn't show enough detail to say exactly. Possibly a drive transistor for the high voltage side given the mess. They tend to fail short circuited, which then causes a catastrophic failure with the energies involved. I find with Chinese electricals, it often isn't the parts that fail first, it's the installation. Usually crappy soldering causing shorts/overheats and eventually something burning out.
DodgeRover Posted November 9, 2018 Posted November 9, 2018 It's effectively an unbraked 2 ton trailer now isn't it? From memory I think in that situation one pair of the rear wheels should be braked as well as the fronts.No mudguards - construction and use offenseNo lights another offense but easily sorted.I doubt you could make it legal to use in anyway other than an emergency recovery richardthestag, stonedagain, Floatylight and 2 others 5
dozeydustman Posted November 9, 2018 Posted November 9, 2018 I don't know where else to post this. I switched on my TV Freeview box adaptor at the wall socket this evening and it exploded - see attached photo of grinning electricals. It didn't blow a fuse in the fusebox and the socket is working normally. Anyone know what could have caused this? Adaptor 003.JPG Looks like the transformer has failed - possibly a winding has shorted. Capacitors look OK. It's scrap. richardthestag and Nicola H 2
Matt Posted November 11, 2018 Posted November 11, 2018 What would be the best way to fuse this headlamp upgrade circuit? Any other suggestions on how to improve it would be appreciated too. I posted this to a make-model specific forum ages ago and there was some disagreement. Some said that there should be one before each relay rather than one on the single battery positive that way if a fuse blows only one headlight is lost. Others argued that this setup leaves the battery positive unprotected until just before the relays but putting a fuse there means that if it blows both headlights are lost at once.
Richard Posted November 11, 2018 Posted November 11, 2018 You want the fuse as close as possible to the battery. If any wire between the battery and the fuse gets chafed there's no protection so you want to minimise the possibility of that happening. You can still have fuses at the relays.
jcr Posted November 11, 2018 Posted November 11, 2018 https://www.copart.co.uk/lot/47860558 Why is this a CAT B? It's barely tickled
Skizzer Posted November 11, 2018 Posted November 11, 2018 Yo shite fans. Anyone fancy a Bosch KE Jetronic fuel injection challenge? Audi 80 is failing to start. There’s a big fat spark, so it’s probably not ignition. The fuel pump makes all the right noises and the fuel pipe upstream of the metering head has petrol in it at the union where you undo it to depressurize the system. The cold start injector and the injector on number 1 cylinder are both as dry as a nun’s nasty though, as a Kiwi acquaintance of mine used to say. The plug-in controller thingy on the cold start injector tests ok on a circuit tester. It ran fine a few weeks ago and I’ve not done anything obvious to break it. Any suggestions what to try next? Hoping I don’t need a whole new metering head. Edit: Have a pic of a dry and slightly sooty cold start injector.
dozeydustman Posted November 11, 2018 Posted November 11, 2018 Yo shite fans. Anyone fancy a Bosch KE Jetronic fuel injection challenge? Audi 80 is failing to start. There’s a big fat spark, so it’s probably not ignition. The fuel pump makes all the right noises and the fuel pipe upstream of the metering head has petrol in it at the union where you undo it to depressurize the system. The cold start injector and the injector on number 1 cylinder are both as dry as a nun’s nasty though, as a Kiwi acquaintance of mine used to say. The plug-in controller thingy on the cold start injector tests ok on a circuit tester. It ran fine a few weeks ago and I’ve not done anything obvious to break it. Any suggestions what to try next? Hoping I don’t need a whole new metering head. Edit: Have a pic of a dry and slightly sooty cold start injector. FDC33315-41E6-43CF-B2AF-668327830E2D.jpeg Not a stop solenoid or something somewhere else in the system is there?
Stanky Posted November 11, 2018 Posted November 11, 2018 What do I need to search for to get a bag of ~5 incandescent bulbs for my 1998 toyota? Ebay is full of LED T5 B8 bulbs but they look wrong (and if the pictures are anything to go by, retina-damagingly bright) to me. The ones that I need to replace are normal filament bulbs, tiny weenie - like the size of an LED, but not LED - and fitted to a plastic cap which twist-fits into a recess in the back of the instrument cluster. I need the bulb and cap if sold separately, which I hope they are not.
Skizzer Posted November 11, 2018 Posted November 11, 2018 Not a stop solenoid or something somewhere else in the system is there?Good question - dunno, might be. Not quite sure what controls it, actually.
dozeydustman Posted November 11, 2018 Posted November 11, 2018 What do I need to search for to get a bag of ~5 incandescent bulbs for my 1998 toyota? Ebay is full of LED T5 B8 bulbs but they look wrong (and if the pictures are anything to go by, retina-damagingly bright) to me. The ones that I need to replace are normal filament bulbs, tiny weenie - like the size of an LED, but not LED - and fitted to a plastic cap which twist-fits into a recess in the back of the instrument cluster. I need the bulb and cap if sold separately, which I hope they are not. ECP do them for about £1.70 a pop including holders. T10 286 peanut bulb https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-parts/car-electrics-and-car-lighting/lighting1/car-bulb/?481774872&0&cc5_401&type=shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQiAw5_fBRCSARIsAGodhk8MCgE7GfGIrkQHM0XhWB9ha2NG4lW2bKaWki5-yb8Mf-7qdZQIYTkaAuGxEALw_wcB LightBulbFun 1
Stanky Posted November 11, 2018 Posted November 11, 2018 I'm going to be a massive mingebag and go in for one, and use the discount code too! Thanks DD! dozeydustman 1
dozeydustman Posted November 11, 2018 Posted November 11, 2018 I'm going to be a massive mingebag and go in for one, and use the discount code too! Thanks DD! There are several different holders, so unless you know what colour or pattern you need it may not fit. The bulb is the same - 2W peanut. If you google about you can find them for cheaper.
Skizzer Posted November 11, 2018 Posted November 11, 2018 Good question - dunno, might be. Not quite sure what controls it, actually.That’s not true, on reflection: I do know, it’s the plate that goes up and down with the airflow, mechanically operating a valve. The plate isn’t stuck so maybe it’s the valve. Which probably means a whole new head. BOLLOCKS.
Noel Tidybeard Posted November 11, 2018 Posted November 11, 2018 There are several different holders, so unless you know what colour or pattern you need it may not fit. The bulb is the same - 2W peanut. If you google about you can find them for cheaper. except for the 1.2w ones if they are for dashboard
Eddie Honda Posted November 12, 2018 Posted November 12, 2018 https://www.copart.co.uk/lot/47860558Why is this a CAT B? It's barely tickledMibbie it has been for a swim? jcr 1
MorrisItalSLX Posted November 12, 2018 Posted November 12, 2018 ATTENTION ALL VOLVO 700/900/850 OWNERS!!! I need details photographs of your headlight wipers! Specifically of the arm/blade dimensions and the splined motor shaft. I’m chasing a lead that they might fit my Jag, so any help will be greatly appreciated. HANDSOME REWARD TO ALL WHO HELP (a like and a thank). BUMP ON THIS I'm looking at you danthecapriman, assuming you still have the bits lying around since you removed them on your 740.
Guest Hooli Posted November 12, 2018 Posted November 12, 2018 What would be the best way to fuse this headlamp upgrade circuit? Any other suggestions on how to improve it would be appreciated too. I posted this to a make-model specific forum ages ago and there was some disagreement. Some said that there should be one before each relay rather than one on the single battery positive that way if a fuse blows only one headlight is lost. Others argued that this setup leaves the battery positive unprotected until just before the relays but putting a fuse there means that if it blows both headlights are lost at once. You want the fuse as close as possible to the battery. If any wire between the battery and the fuse gets chafed there's no protection so you want to minimise the possibility of that happening. You can still have fuses at the relays. What he said ^^ But if you do it with the relays near the battery then you can wire it your way too. Of course relays nearer the lights is better for reducing voltage drop... TBH I'd do it your way but if it was a long run to the relays maybe put a bigger fuse in too up near the battery.
dozeydustman Posted November 12, 2018 Posted November 12, 2018 except for the 1.2w ones if they are for dashboard 2w ones in the corolla.....
Squire_Dawson Posted November 12, 2018 Posted November 12, 2018 Also posted in news 24: Any Brum shiters who could view and collect 5 tyres for me from Sheldon por favour?
anonymous user Posted November 13, 2018 Posted November 13, 2018 I am trying to remove primer that has been sprayed onto fibreglass, it's bloody hard work using tcut, I can't find proper cutting compound locally which might be better. I'm a bit concerned about using paint stripper or anything too abrasive. Any sensible suggestions?
95 quid Peugeot Posted November 13, 2018 Posted November 13, 2018 I await your arrival squire! I used the wrong paypal card to pay for this roffle... Note to self, don't enter roffles from the joint account, it causes earache.I'm off to wakefield tomorrow to collect this week's roffle Saab. As I'm coming from Suffuck will I need a rain mac, scarf and gloves.
95 quid Peugeot Posted November 13, 2018 Posted November 13, 2018 I am trying to remove primer that has been sprayed onto fibreglass, it's bloody hard work using tcut, I can't find proper cutting compound locally which might be better. I'm a bit concerned about using paint stripper or anything too abrasive. Any sensible suggestions? Tell em purplebargeken. Your fine retort. FIRE
stonedagain Posted November 13, 2018 Posted November 13, 2018 I am trying to remove primer that has been sprayed onto fibreglass, it's bloody hard work using tcut, I can't find proper cutting compound locally which might be better. I'm a bit concerned about using paint stripper or anything too abrasive. Any sensible suggestions? DON'T use paint stripper on fibreglass unless you want it to dissolve! Use 1500 grade wet or dry with soapy water, then polish with T-Cut. anonymous user 1
Bobthebeard Posted November 14, 2018 Posted November 14, 2018 Battery question here...The Honda Accord battery will go almost completely flat if the car is not used for three or maybe four days. Starts fine if used daily ish.Checking for parasitic drain shows a 37mA drain (constant). By my reckoning this shouldn't kill a battery in three days surely? The battery is unknown vintage as it came with the recently purchased car. The battery has been flat twice now to my knowledge.Is the battery just weak?Will a new battery cure the problem?
Squire_Dawson Posted November 14, 2018 Posted November 14, 2018 Remove all interior lamp bulbs (especially if self-dimming) and the radio must be switched off before the ignition switch. These are the usual battery drains for the symptoms you describe. Bobthebeard 1
Bobthebeard Posted November 14, 2018 Posted November 14, 2018 Have done that, but symptons persist. Would a weak battery explain the issue before splashing out £80 on a new one?
twosmoke300 Posted November 14, 2018 Posted November 14, 2018 Battery question here...The Honda Accord battery will go almost completely flat if the car is not used for three or maybe four days. Starts fine if used daily ish.Checking for parasitic drain shows a 37mA drain (constant).By my reckoning this shouldn't kill a battery in three days surely? The battery is unknown vintage as it came with the recently purchased car. The battery has been flat twice now to my knowledge.Is the battery just weak?Will a new battery cure the problem? What year is it ? some newer hondas had trouble with the bluetooth units draining batteriesAlso be aware some can bus cars need up to 30 mins to shut down so bear that in mind doing drain tests Honda parasitic drain spec is 0.02a Bobthebeard 1
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now