xtriple Posted August 1, 2018 Posted August 1, 2018 On the merc there are rubber bungs underneath in a line with the jacking points, I have one missing, any ideas what it's called and where to get one from for not many pounds? Also, there's a drain hole rubber bung just behind it that has gone walkies. Suggestions anyone? As they are missing, at least I can check the state of the inner cills(sills) and, pleased to report, spot on
mercrocker Posted August 1, 2018 Posted August 1, 2018 My Merc bloke calls them plugs....Google Mercedes jacking plugs, they are not difficult to buy. xtriple 1
skattrd Posted August 3, 2018 Posted August 3, 2018 This really is one for the old thread title (stupid question). Range Rovers - P38 2.5td or L322 3l TD ... is there a sensible choice?or is the sensible choice actually a Landcruiser?
drum Posted August 3, 2018 Posted August 3, 2018 Apologies for re-posting what I'd put on my tat thread, but it was a question and not everyone reads the crap on the open forum. What's the bottom tool for? It can't really be for fitting reflectors and lights, can it? Nice wee vintage tool lot won for £20.Sykes Pickavant flaring tool. 20180802_202343.jpgHas both 1/4 and 3/16 inch bits. And instructions sensibly taped to the lid.20180802_202350.jpgCrypton Synchro carb balancing tool.20180802_202436.jpgCrypton Portapress compression tester 20180802_202407.jpgAnd this Apkoway tool which confuses me.20180802_202552.jpgIt says it's a light fitting tool but looks more like a puller. Any info? Edit: quoting doesn't work for pics then?Here it is
red5 Posted August 3, 2018 Posted August 3, 2018 AdvancedHelp Files View New ContentHomepageMembersCalendarAutoshiteRofflesFor SaleOpen ForumsModern Shite Sorry, we couldn't find that![#404]Sorry, we could not locate the page you are requesting to view. Please click here to return to the community indexNeed Help?Our help documentationContact the community administrator Errr
Bobthebeard Posted August 3, 2018 Posted August 3, 2018 Bit of a strange one, but have just realised that the EML on the Saab 9-3 doesn't come on during the ignition on test phase. Every other light does then goes off as normal. I plugged in the diagnostic job and got four error codes that should have brought on the EML. But given that it doesn't ever come on it makes sense. Two relating to Ignition Coil Knock (P1312 P1334)One relating to Camshaft Position Sensor A (P0340)One relating to Air Flow Not Measured (P0101) Cleared the codes and on a (very) short drive they didn't reappear. But why doesn't the EML work? At all... Even when the ignition is first switched on? Car drives normally, but have heard what sounded like good old fashioned pinking on hills/acceleration.
Guest Hooli Posted August 3, 2018 Posted August 3, 2018 Is the bulb in there? or as it been removed by a previous owner to fix* the EML? Nicola H 1
Bobthebeard Posted August 3, 2018 Posted August 3, 2018 Is the bulb in there? or as it been removed by a previous owner to fix* the EML?No idea TBH. But being a Saab I would have thought that removing a bulb wouldn't stop the bong bong SID thing.Plus the car came from a trusted chap on here, so would seriously doubt any shenanigans. Unless it was done before his ownership of course.
Guest Hooli Posted August 3, 2018 Posted August 3, 2018 Would it bong bong SID? I don't recall any such happenings when mine flagged up a code with the EML (dodgy 'stat). Maybe the bulb has just popped?
Bobthebeard Posted August 3, 2018 Posted August 3, 2018 Possibly. Will check that very, err, possibility. But it looks like a bit of a bugger to get to.
beko1987 Posted August 3, 2018 Posted August 3, 2018 Has anyone ever changed the front shock absorbers on a Mazda 5? One of Gareths has gone wobbly, and we are wondering if we can do the job ourselves after reading the workshop manual, but I'm concious of hidden issues... Seems to be fairly easy to drop the shock, compress the springs and hope its not rusted out like the zafira was, swap the shocks, new bottom balljoint and TRE's just because their cheap and have to come off anyway... Then get it tracked £180 worth of parts from Euro's before any *discount*...
sierraman Posted August 3, 2018 Posted August 3, 2018 What bits are likely to be saleable on an 05 plate Golf 2.0 tdi?
Lacquer Peel Posted August 3, 2018 Posted August 3, 2018 What bits are likely to be saleable on an 05 plate Golf 2.0 tdi?The bits that you can use to upgrade lower spec Golfs unless it is a low spec Golf.
sierraman Posted August 3, 2018 Posted August 3, 2018 Engine is dead but they want scrap for it. If it’s worth my while I’ll break it.
robinmasters Posted August 4, 2018 Posted August 4, 2018 What does "Dirtee South" mean? *Aside from 'car driven by retarded chavver'
bramz7 Posted August 4, 2018 Posted August 4, 2018 Odd question, but what's worth looking out for on a 2008 C2 1.6 petrol? A tasty one has come up locally and I find myself wanting a modern as a commuting car for a short period. Any help appreciated.
panhard65 Posted August 4, 2018 Posted August 4, 2018 Odd question, but what's worth looking out for on a 2008 C2 1.6 petrol? A tasty one has come up locally and I find myself wanting a modern as a commuting car for a short period. Any help appreciated.Don't touch an auto for a start. Gearboxes can get noisey in 1st 2nd and 3rd. Not bad to repair but gearbox out job. Other than that just the usual modern car electronics. The one we had did also rust out the outer sills under the underseal, but that was a high mileage 2004
bramz7 Posted August 4, 2018 Posted August 4, 2018 Thankfully it's a manual. I've also made a point to only search for 206 RG manuals too. Is £1250 steep for a 58 plate C2 Code? Personally I thought it seemed middling to cheap...probably should go look at it.
wuvvum Posted August 4, 2018 Posted August 4, 2018 C2s are a fun little rollerskate, but as Panhard says avoid the autos. Not only are they unreliable and expensive to fix, they're also utterly shit to use. Interestingly C2s seem less prone to the ECUs shitting themselves than the closely related C3.
wuvvum Posted August 4, 2018 Posted August 4, 2018 Can anyone see what's wrong with this brake compensator valve? The Audi failed its MOT on "linkage defective and function impaired", so I was expecting to find something obviously broken, but the spring is all there and joined on at both ends, and the valve itself doesn't appear to be seized. Here's a picture with flash: Other than being rather muddy I couldn't see owt wrong with it. I must be missing something though. Also, should this tyre have failed the MOT? Appreciate it's rather worn on the inside edge, but it looks to me like it's >1.6mm over 3/4 of the width of the tyre - unless they've changed the rules on tyres with the new test?
steveo3002 Posted August 4, 2018 Posted August 4, 2018 so if you grab it where the spring is...can you work the lever up and down? nothing obvious i can see...if its not leaking and the lever moves should be ok
SiC Posted August 4, 2018 Posted August 4, 2018 Have the tyres worn unevenly across the circumferential? I.e. is it under 1.6mm elsewhere around it.
bigfella2 Posted August 5, 2018 Posted August 5, 2018 Am guessing it's a vts code, I have had two, bought as a spares repair car, fixed it and thrashed it constantly for two years and sold it to someone I work with and still going strong. Issues are manual gearboxes are a bit fragile, and make sure it doesn't throw up abs fault, emissions etc on start up as it is usually related to the abs pump which is difficult and expensive to fix. Great fun though. Easy to work on. Recommended.
iainrcz Posted August 5, 2018 Posted August 5, 2018 Heatshrink, will a hair dryer work on it or am I hoping? Sent from my VFD 710 using Tapatalk
MorrisItalSLX Posted August 5, 2018 Posted August 5, 2018 Heatshrink, will a hair dryer work on it or am I hoping? Sent from my VFD 710 using TapatalkHairdryers don’t work from my experiences, I use a soldering iron or a lighter/match. iainrcz 1
MorrisItalSLX Posted August 5, 2018 Posted August 5, 2018 Can anyone identify this MG horn button? Preferably provide a picture of the steering wheel it fits?
bramz7 Posted August 5, 2018 Posted August 5, 2018 Am guessing it's a vts code, I have had two, bought as a spares repair car, fixed it and thrashed it constantly for two years and sold it to someone I work with and still going strong. Issues are manual gearboxes are a bit fragile, and make sure it doesn't throw up abs fault, emissions etc on start up as it is usually related to the abs pump which is difficult and expensive to fix. Great fun though. Easy to work on. Recommended.That's the one. Thanks for the advice there, being used to old stodge, the performance figures for these things look pretty decent.
Guest Hooli Posted August 5, 2018 Posted August 5, 2018 Can anyone see what's wrong with this brake compensator valve? The Audi failed its MOT on "linkage defective and function impaired", so I was expecting to find something obviously broken, but the spring is all there and joined on at both ends, and the valve itself doesn't appear to be seized. IMG_20180804_200219.jpg Here's a picture with flash: IMG_20180804_200316.jpg Other than being rather muddy I couldn't see owt wrong with it. I must be missing something though. Also, should this tyre have failed the MOT? Appreciate it's rather worn on the inside edge, but it looks to me like it's >1.6mm over 3/4 of the width of the tyre - unless they've changed the rules on tyres with the new test? IMG_20180804_200751.jpgAsk the MOT place. Anywhere I've taken cars has always been happy enough to explain the issue with bits. No guessing that way.
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