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[wuvvum]

Another 205 question.

 

Since it's been MOT'd it's developed a habit of occasionally putting the temp warning light on for no apparent reason.  It's been getting worse, and today it's been on constantly. 

 

I had a poke around under the bonnet and there are two things which look like they could be temp sensors, very close to each other.  One of them (the one with the black terminal) has a nice healthy 14v going to it with the engine running, the other has nothing at all - and isn't an earth either.  Unplugging either or both makes no difference to the light situation.

 

I'm obviously missing something because it would make no sense to me to have two temp sensors so close together, but there's obviously an issue somewhere.  My HBOL is no help as it only covers petrol engines.  Any pointers appreciated before I take the coward's way out and remove the bulbs.

 

[Eddie Honda]

One is hot and the other is fucked. XUD book at home.

Try this. I think it's my old PDF 14MB link

 

Citroen_Diesel_Engine_1984-1996_autorepman.com.pdfFetching info...

[garethj]

  On 01/07/2018 at 11:36, robinmasters said:

How can you tell if nuts and bolts are zinc plated, galvanized, or something else? I need some that aren't.

 

Galvanised fasteners are unusual on cars because the zinc coating bungs up the threads, it's normally on things like tractor accessories for M20 bolts and stuff.  Most fasteners are mild steel and either BZP (bright zinc plated) or nickel plated.

 

Black fasteners can be done with a number of processes, chemical black is the most common.

 

Stainless steel fasteners have no coating, they're available as A2 (equivalent to 304 stainless) or A4 (equivalent to 316 stainless).  They're usually a dull finish compared to the shiny BZP or nickel plated ones but their corrosion protection is much better.  A2 are pretty good but A4 are better and almost twice the price.

 

Finally, when you're using fasteners, don't forget to have a quick look at a table of noble materials to check how galvanic corrosion will affect things.  Even the manufacturers get this wrong as I saw last week - there was a stainless steel bolt on the outside, rust protection innit, but a mild steel BZP nut on the inside where water won't get in and it won't rust.  Wrong, because after 6 months the less noble steel nut was rusting like a bastard.  Moral of the story, use the same material nut as bolt and if it's different to the material you're clamping then use an insulating washer between them.

[M'coli]

Does anyone know how to unseize a seized-up PSA rear beam? The ZX estate's is seized solid having being off the road since September last year, and it's an MOT failure.

[D Spares & Tyres]

Boot load of bricks

 

You could drill a hole in the main tube and put old engine oil in it, that will give it a bit more life but it will need changing eventually.

 

I've done both

[M'coli]

I've got it on wooden blocks at opposite corners so it's a bit like a wobbly chair at the moment...

[twosmoke300]

If its seized then the bearings are fucked . If it does free off then it will be wobbly as fuck after a run round the block anyway.

 

New beam im afraid

[Parky]

How much should a cambelt replacement be for a Seat Leon 1.6 (same underneath as a mk5 Golf)?

 

It’s a simple 8v ohc lump and I need the belt, tensioner and water pump done.

 

Last time an Audi VW specialist did it on my driveway in the snow (2013) for £300 using genuine VW parts. Today they quoted me £450 for the same but I have to take it to them. 50% increase seems a tad high to me.

 

Which leads me to the next question - any forum preferences or recommendations re aftermarket parts? Febi Bilstein, Gates, SKF, Or ContiTech for example? Am sure all are fine but wondered if any pros had any useful experience of these bits.

 

I would do it myself but (a) can’t be arsed and ( last time I did a belt I got the timing wrong - luckily non interference motor but my mate was not pleased with me!

[HillmanImp]

How long does it take for a vehicle to show as taxed online? The Visa is now taxed and tested but is still showing a SORN on the DVLA website. It's parked on the road so I don't want to get into trouble if it's not updated properly for some reason.

[Mally]

Are you man or mouse

It's taxed and tested.

[M'coli]

  On 02/07/2018 at 09:41, twosmoke300 said:

If its seized then the bearings are fucked . If it does free off then it will be wobbly as fuck after a run round the block anyway.

 

New beam im afraid

It's hardly worth it, that's the problem...

[HillmanImp]

  On 02/07/2018 at 14:05, Mally said:

Are you man or mouse

It's taxed and tested.

Aye but its just sat on t'road at home, I'm at work. If its not showing up as taxed and a nosey neighbour dobs me in as its showing as SORN I don't want to have to spend my evening scraping an untaxed vehicle sticker off the windscreen. I thought it was straight away these days.

[artdjones]

  On 02/07/2018 at 10:24, Parky said:

How much should a cambelt replacement be for a Seat Leon 1.6 (same underneath as a mk5 Golf)?

 

 

It’s a simple 8v ohc lump and I need the belt, tensioner and water pump done.

 

Last time an Audi VW specialist did it on my driveway in the snow (2013) for £300 using genuine VW parts. Today they quoted me £450 for the same but I have to take it to them. 50% increase seems a tad high to me.

 

Which leads me to the next question - any forum preferences or recommendations re aftermarket parts? Febi Bilstein, Gates, SKF, Or ContiTech for example? Am sure all are fine but wondered if any pros had any useful experience of these bits.

 

I would do it myself but (a) can’t be arsed and ( last time I did a belt I got the timing wrong - luckily non interference motor but my mate was not pleased with me!

Gates or SKF for preference,but most well known makes are ok.Book time around 3 hours.

[artdjones]

Gates kit with pump around £80 posted on eBay.Around £150-180 for labour?

[666jjp]

  On 01/07/2018 at 19:01, DodgeRover said:

Is the A/C belt slipping? Is the compressor turning when you activate the a/c?

Did he vacuum test it before refilling?

stopped by a local garage. the compressor is working so he seemed to think a leak somewhere. 

would a gas leak show any signs?

Will look if there is anything obvious but looks like I will just have to put up with it not working

[Parky]

  On 02/07/2018 at 15:54, artdjones said:

Gates kit with pump around £80 posted on eBay.Around £150-180 for labour?

Thank you Mr Jones. Got another quote yesterday from a more local place, they want £430 with genuine VW kit or £400 if I use an aftermarket arrangement.

 

The original specialist will only use VW bits, especially water pumps as the aftermarket all use plastic impellers vs the metal ones from VW. But according to yesterday’s place, VW are using plastic impellers now anyway.

 

I am awaiting one more place to come back but I suspect they will be more expensive as they are further into London. I might just take a day off and get a VW specialist a bit further out in the sticks to look at it. Sometimes this works, I remember a second service on a Kia was £300 in Romford (east London) and the same was £235 in Southend (Essex). Purely because of the labour rates and their London weighting.

 

Ultimately it’s a ten year old hatch with 86000 miles on it, one owner and full history from new. I don’t plan to sell it but it is in banger territory now so reputable aftermarket bits will do. I may buy them myself and supply them to the garage I end up using so at least I have some control over the quality of what gets fitted.

[Richard]

  On 02/07/2018 at 11:37, HillmanImp said:

How long does it take for a vehicle to show as taxed online? The Visa is now taxed and tested but is still showing a SORN on the DVLA website. It's parked on the road so I don't want to get into trouble if it's not updated properly for some reason.

Print out the receipt and put it in the window.

[bub2006]

  On 28/06/2018 at 22:35, binhoker668 said:

Ok. As my rather long and fearful post said - I had been worrying over this for a while, due to varying degrees of 'surge' and non immediate brakes etc.

 

So I got up this morning and got on the case. Citrobic work out for a good LONG while - much to the neighbours' entertainment of course, and then went here for some PUREST GREEN.

 

IMG_2361.jpg

 

Filled up as much as I dared (the wee level jobbie dusnae seem to work at all), and then entertained the cheerful shopkeep with many more Citrobics.

 

Then, good drive out to the Citroen dudes at Langley Mill (on the way, the speedo stopped working) , where I explained my worries and asked their advice. Great bloke said "Sure let's take it for a drive". He drove me up the road and back and proclaimed it fine but understood my worries. By that time of course, after it had been driven a good bit and topped up, I think all was well again. Great garage - they will be having my monies when specialists are needed. Some nice stuff there too of course.

 

IMG_2364.jpg

 

IMG_2372.jpg

 

So that all done, I dropped into the local porn shop for a wee hoke around.

 

IMG_2373.jpg

 

(Bubs, I DID try to drive around a bit in the hope of bumping into seeing you somewhere!)

 

I then set off back to Notts, thumping the top of the dash once or twice on the way. Hey presto - working speedo!

 

So there is a moral to this rather over-wrought tale. Don't lose your shit over self-fixing cars. Just never leave without a litre of green ming.

I think it was just kinda tired from under use - both whilst I was in Poland and also from it's previous owner.

It's a very different beast to my S1 TD SX for sure, and am just getting used to it I guess.

 

Drove to Doncaster Airport and back tonight at speed and in great comfort. With much stoppage where required.

 

Thanks for replies/suggestions, and general amnesty for a 'stupid' question.

 

Chris.

I live on the new Street directly opposite anchor army supplies! Next time you up this way drop us a message bud

[Lacquer Peel]

Is the labour to change a VW 8v cambelt that much? I bought a Gates kit for my Bora VE TDI because it's proven itself a reliable car after 2,500 miles in one week. Not keen to DIY it because I've messed up timing belts on TDIs before.

[sierraman]

Someone with the Autodata book should be able to tell you.

 

Sent mine to the garage, for sake of a few hours labour, I was about to buy the tools to lock it all in and hold the pulleys, by the time I'd fucked about the garage wasn't wanting a lot to do it anyway.

[binhoker668]

  On 03/07/2018 at 05:48, bub2006 said:

I live on the new Street directly opposite anchor army supplies! Next time you up this way drop us a message bud

 

Will do fella.  We live too close to not know each other!

Chris

 

[Guest Hooli]

You'll wish you didn't once ya meet him!

[HillmanImp]

  On 03/07/2018 at 05:20, Richard said:

Print out the receipt and put it in the window.

 

That's actually a very good idea. Not sure why I didn't think if that. It's updated now though, finally.

[bub2006]

  On 03/07/2018 at 11:28, Hooli said:

You'll wish you didn't once ya meet him!

I many Times do I need to say shush

[SiC]

  On 03/07/2018 at 03:13, Parky said:

Thank you Mr Jones. Got another quote yesterday from a more local place, they want £430 with genuine VW kit or £400 if I use an aftermarket arrangement.

 

The original specialist will only use VW bits, especially water pumps as the aftermarket all use plastic impellers vs the metal ones from VW. But according to yesterday’s place, VW are using plastic impellers now anyway.

 

I am awaiting one more place to come back but I suspect they will be more expensive as they are further into London. I might just take a day off and get a VW specialist a bit further out in the sticks to look at it. Sometimes this works, I remember a second service on a Kia was £300 in Romford (east London) and the same was £235 in Southend (Essex). Purely because of the labour rates and their London weighting.

 

Ultimately it’s a ten year old hatch with 86000 miles on it, one owner and full history from new. I don’t plan to sell it but it is in banger territory now so reputable aftermarket bits will do. I may buy them myself and supply them to the garage I end up using so at least I have some control over the quality of what gets fitted.

Have you tried the local dealer? Sounds daft, but they often do fixed price repairs. I've seen it cheaper a couple of times at a dealer.

 

Edit: £469 - http://www.seat.co.uk/owners/your-seat/servicing-maintenance/fixed-price-maintenance.html

 

You also should get use of their curtosy car for the day too. Plus a wash and clean if the dealer is being nice.

 

Still may even be cheaper than that if you shop around on dealers locally.

[somewhatfoolish]

  On 02/07/2018 at 16:03, 666jjp said:

stopped by a local garage. the compressor is working so he seemed to think a leak somewhere. 

would a gas leak show any signs?

Will look if there is anything obvious but looks like I will just have to put up with it not working

Refrigerant has a noxious yellow-green substance in it which is supposed to show up leaks, but sometimes does nothing of the kind.

[billy_bunter]

Just bought a 2001 focus estate in Zetec trim. I

 

t has 50 types of gack on the steering wheel. How to clean it as I am unsure if it's fake leather or real leather. Is there an easy way to tell?

 

Whats best way to clean?

 

There was a thread a while back but I cannot find it....

[sierraman]

Chuck it and get another from breakers. It won't be leather.

[SiC]

  On 03/07/2018 at 21:18, billy_bunter said:

Just bought a 2001 focus estate in Zetec trim. I

 

t has 50 types of gack on the steering wheel. How to clean it as I am unsure if it's fake leather or real leather. Is there an easy way to tell?

 

Whats best way to clean?

 

There was a thread a while back but I cannot find it....

Isn't that the standard Ford melting steering wheel problem? Soft touch/rubber plastic falling apart if its users wears handcream/oily hands/sweats a lot? I don't think it can be properly repaired.

[billy_bunter]

Not a clue? Will take a photo tomorrow...