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Posted

^^ my local garage informed me that the gills were pretty much goosed on the Toyota rad @27(no leaks).

 

I scored one BrandNew for £14 delivered off EBay... Corolla AUTO, mind, but an 'alternative' fit YaY

 

 

TS

  • Like 2
Posted

Just drain the rad to below the level of the leak and use 2 part epoxy to cover the area where the leak is, A small leak probably needs about a 25mm x 25mm patch Push the epoxy well into the rad fins and leave a slightly domed finish It will never leak again from this spot. Done this loads of times in rookie bangers where you must run a radiator as steam tanks are not allowed. Please feel free to move this post to the worst bodge thread

Does it say the rad must be in it's original position or can you shift it to the back seat?

Posted

Does it say the rad must be in it's original position or can you shift it to the back seat?

Depends on the promotion.Never in the back seat but some allow anywhere in engine bay. For this we use a micra rad behind the engine with the fan running constantly. Some promotions insist on original position. The idea is to cut down on massive OTT hits in a beginners formula. In practise you just save the big hits for the last couple of laps

Posted

Does anyone else find the occasional dazzler like this though - or is it me being a weed?

No, I'd say it's more like one in every 5 round here. Always utterly hanging early to mid 2000s cars.

 

One light out, the other pointing to Mars

Posted

I've always had a judder from the clutch when changing down from 4th to 3rd or 3rd to 2nd on the Mondeo. It doesn't slip, I tested this yesterday on Porlock Hill. It bites halfway up.

 

My thoughts are that its had the clutch plate overheated before hence the judder, any other thoughts on why its doing this?

Posted

Another Lambda-related question.  My recently-purchased Perodua Myvi is throwing up a P0130 code, which I understand to mean that the pre-cat sensor is playing up.  Had a look under the bonnet and the sensor actually looks fairly new, but it's one of these universal aftermarket ones that come with four loose wires that need to be spliced into the connector.

 

Are these universal sensors normally any good?  I'm wondering whether the code is being thrown up because the sensor is made of Chinesium, or because someone has not done a very good job of wiring it in.  If the latter, how does one go about testing the wiring to a Lambda sensor with a multimeter?

Posted

Universal sensors are often no good but of course are much cheaper.Probably worth taking it out and looking at the wiring join, but all the universal ones tend to have a design of joint that it's hard to get to work.Usually have ended up buying an NGK sensor in the specific fitting from eBay,which works.Of course one would have to buy from a trustworthy seller.

Posted

Just looked up Myvi oxygen sensor on eBay but there's only a listing for a Blueprint sensor,which is £155 plus postage.

Posted

Aye, fuck that for a game of soldiers!!

 

I'm hoping that because it's a 1.3 Yaris engine a Yaris sensor will fit, but I'll have to double check the connectors before I splash out.

Posted

If it's a yaris engine shouldn't it be a 6 wires sensor?

Posted

Strange one, 07 plate fiesta flat battery, 1.8V

I pit the jump pack on it and nothing. Earth on the battery and still nothing.

This happened overnight with nothing being the apparent cause.

 

Any ideas as it is 'parked' on double yellows and the traffic warden was nice yesterday but might be less nice today.

Posted

]Mother's 1995 1.4 8v Astra has an oil leak from the back of the cam/distributor area - but I'm having fun finding out what part I need to fix it, bearing in mind it's a coil pack fitted where the earlier cars had an actual distributor. Is it an o-ring? A cam oil seal (all seem to be listed as fronts on eBay)

Thanks

 

post-20952-0-19100400-1519638556_thumb.jpgpost-20952-0-63179900-1519638596_thumb.jpg

Posted

So back to the fiesta with no drive whatsoever, start it in gear and nothing happens. Stripped it down and all looks ok except for a very worn friction disc. Twist the input shaft and driveshafts turn ok. Here's the stupid bit .. I'm not convinced there isn't something else buggered as I've never come across a clutch that won't make any effort to move the car, also do these have dual mass flywheels ? Petrol 1.25

 

 

post-19668-0-72803700-1519642008_thumb.jpeg

Posted

That friction plate isn't that bad. When the rivits have witness marks on them and the clutch cover / flywheel is scored to buggery, then it's bad.

 

Can you turn the flywheel centre with the engine stationary? DMF's have been known to completely fail, leaving the two halves somewhat disconnected. There are some highly amusing Youtube vids of this, particularly on Transit engines. maybe the fail is working it's way down to the smaller Fords too.

Posted

Strange one, 07 plate fiesta flat battery, 1.8V

I pit the jump pack on it and nothing. Earth on the battery and still nothing.

This happened overnight with nothing being the apparent cause.

 

Any ideas as it is 'parked' on double yellows and the traffic warden was nice yesterday but might be less nice today.

I'd be inclined to remove the battery and plonk the jump pack in there instead (assuming it's a lead acid or gel battery in the jump pack). If it'll start on the jump pack alone, get it moved like that.

 

Sent from my BV6000 using Tapatalk

Posted

I've had a complete DMF fail on a transit before. It effectively broke into two parts. Loss of drive as a result.

Posted

That friction plate isn't that bad. When the rivits have witness marks on them and the clutch cover / flywheel is scored to buggery, then it's bad.

 

Can you turn the flywheel centre with the engine stationary? DMF's have been known to completely fail, leaving the two halves somewhat disconnected. There are some highly amusing Youtube vids of this, particularly on Transit engines. maybe the fail is working it's way down to the smaller Fords too.

 

Yeah I can turn the flywheel as it was spinning when undoing the pressure plate bolts, I'd be surprised if this is a dual mass with it being a puny petrol engine but every day is a learning day

Posted

Confirmed with Ford it's a single mass flywheel, so ...........can a worn clutch completely prevent any kind of drive??? driveshaft's are in good order too !

Posted

Maybe I've lost the plot, but isn't the point that you shouldn't be able to turn the fliywheel, DMF or not?

 

You can turn it, but you'll feel the compression of the engine as you do so.

Guest Ghostrider 67
Posted

Hello, not sure where to post this, so, here goes. Can anyone identify this Sunbeam?

post-25533-0-47990700-1519649358_thumb.jpg

Posted

Yeah I can turn the flywheel as it was spinning when undoing the pressure plate bolts, I'd be surprised if this is a dual mass with it being a puny petrol engine but every day is a learning day

Spinning? Like turning easily? If so that's something properly broken... snapped crank or something like that.

Posted

A colleague at work has given me a aerosol of graphite oil, what on earth would you need that for?

Posted

Stiletto? The posh/sporty version of the Hillman Imp?

 

The grille/trim are wrong. I'm betting it's been adapted from another car.

Posted

A colleague at work has given me a aerosol of graphite oil, what on earth would you need that for?

 

Isn't this used to lubricating locks and stuff? You can use WD40 but as that attracts dirt which then sticks to it, it actually makes things worse over time. Graphite oil shouldn't do this.

 

If you want to come and test it on my front door lock you are most welcome, its an ungrateful sod and locking the door is becoming farcical.

  • Like 3
Posted

Depends on the promotion.Never in the back seat but some allow anywhere in engine bay. For this we use a micra rad behind the engine with the fan running constantly. Some promotions insist on original position. The idea is to cut down on massive OTT hits in a beginners formula. In practise you just save the big hits for the last couple of laps

Drivers door hits, following in on a stationary car unless the drivers waving them in and turning round have got no place in a beginners formula but the crowds seem to love it....

Posted

Stupid question:

 

If I'm changing the oil in my MKIV Golf TDi, would any modern oil with 'suitable for VW' be ok?  I'm just a bit confused because I know I should use the 'right' oil but when I look for the code on the back, nothing has it - not even the 'VW' oil.

Posted

Stupid question:

 

If I'm changing the oil in my MKIV Golf TDi, would any modern oil with 'suitable for VW' be ok?  I'm just a bit confused because I know I should use the 'right' oil but when I look for the code on the back, nothing has it - not even the 'VW' oil.

 

whack the reg into euro car parts website and they'll tell you what to use. Probably 5w/30 or 10w/40 semi but I'm not sure. I've found their Triple QX stuff hasn't caused massive engine failure in any of the half dozen or so cars and probably 200k miles I've used it for, and its approved for the VW standards from what I remember.

  • Like 1

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