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Posted

I'd have thought so Christine. Unless someone else finds a way to wriggle out and splitting the bill. Can't see how that is possible but this is insurance companys.

Posted

To be fair to it, it’s pushing 300k so I can forgive it for shitting it’s 7th regulator

A new one every 40k ish miles doesn't sound marvellous to me. They seem to have fitted them in all the VAG range for donkeys years along with Snap Off clutch pedals, duff fuel pump relays and other weak links.

  • Like 1
Posted

Can the noise/vibration from a roof rack be dampened?

 

My van has a Rhino modular rack fitted and I’m thinking about sacking it off because it’s so awfully loud on the motorway

Probably been said. A roofrack will significantly reduce mpg

Posted

This here fire in a Liverpool car park.. The Land Rover with an engine fire that started it , will his insurance co have to pick up the tab for all the other vehicles and building damage ? :shock:

 

Yes and no - the underwriters will have various reinsurance arrangements, catastrophe risk cover and 'excess of loss' treaties in place for very large single claims like this so in reality the liability will be spread around the Lloyd's market. It's a big claim but not off the scale. A major flood could be similar and we get those often enough.
Posted

What happened to the thread of the year vote. It was neck and neck last night before it got locked and now I can't find it to see who won.

Posted

Does anyone know what I did with the V5 for my 4x4 Panda?  Can't find the fecking thing anywhere, needs to be SORN and I'm not paying £25 for a replacement certificate!  

I may sell the car to my mother and buy it back.....

.....only not without a V5.

Posted

Is it worth sharpening drill bits with one of those drill attachments? I realise titanium bits can't be sharpened effectively to the same durability but for your normal HSS bits are they a good investment?

Posted

You can do them just as well (if not better) with a bench grinder and a bit of practice. Titanium ones are a swizz, they're just a coating and sharpen just the same.

  • Like 1
Posted

Seen sharpeners on eBay for £6 delivered so might breath new life into my bits.

 

Also going to invest in some cobolt bits for occasions when I've got to drill a bolt out.

Posted

What happened to the thread of the year vote. It was neck and neck last night before it got locked and now I can't find it to see who won.

I think Wobbler won.

Posted

Probably been said. A roofrack will significantly reduce mpg

Doesn’t seem awful on fuel for a big van to be honest

 

Anyone know anything about the Smart Nav sat nav thing the Relay and other Citroen vans can come with? I have a mount and power cable for one but not the unit

Posted

Found the V5, some idiot had actually filed  it away in a filing cabin FFS!

 

BTW I live alone and the dog didn't do it!

  • Like 2
Posted

Quick question for your assistance please - the dynamo whines like a bugger on the Oxford at low RPM, is there somewhere to lubricate on it? I've never had a car with one before.

 

The series 2 manual I have makes reference to doing this but doesn't provide specifics..

 

Ta!

Posted

What happened to the thread of the year vote. It was neck and neck last night before it got locked and now I can't find it to see who won.

Top three result will be announced in due course....
Posted

Is it worth sharpening drill bits with one of those drill attachments? I realise titanium bits can't be sharpened effectively to the same durability but for your normal HSS bits are they a good investment?

 

I learnt in the Training school. Instructor said it doesn't matter how many you ruin as long as you can do it in the end.

Bend your forefinger slightly. The angle at the first joint is drill angle. Use a medium drill, say 8mm to practise on.

Mind your fingers.

Yes drill sharpening machines do work, some better than others.

These are reasonable for the price.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-99Pcs-Drill-Bits-Titanium-Coated-Metal-HSS-Twist-Steel-Brick-Set-Tools/263022516076?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Posted

My boss didn't know you could re sharpen drill bits, he's been chucking them and buying new ones for years, guess who now has the job of re sharpening them...

All I need to do is convince people that "as fast as the drill will go" is not an appropriate speed and will just blue the drill bits.

  • Like 3
Posted

When I worked at BAe, No one sharpened a drill. Mind you they needed holes to be round and the right diameter.

I used to collect the worn out ones.

  • Like 2
Posted

Quick question for your assistance please - the dynamo whines like a bugger on the Oxford at low RPM, is there somewhere to lubricate on it? I've never had a car with one before.

 

The series 2 manual I have makes reference to doing this but doesn't provide specifics..

 

Ta!

 

The bearings at each end of the casing I'd expect.

Posted

Is it worth sharpening drill bits with one of those drill attachments? I realise titanium bits can't be sharpened effectively to the same durability but for your normal HSS bits are they a good investment?

Titanium bits(really Titanium Nitride coated) are just HSS underneath the coating, they sharpen exactly the same and will bore holes as before. The coating doesn't affect the ability to bore holes, it reduces friction which helps the drills stay sharp longer and looks fancy which helps sell them over plain old black HSS.

Seen sharpeners on eBay for £6 delivered so might breath new life into my bits.

 

Also going to invest in some cobolt bits for occasions when I've got to drill a bolt out.

No need for Cobalt (not really made of cobalt, just a fancy type of high speed steel with 1-2% cobalt), unless you're trying to drill some very ooh-er bolts made of unobtanium ordinary HSS is quite adequate as long as they're sharp, you use the right speed and some lubricant. I sharpen by hand, but sharpeners will do what you need too, although from what I can gather it takes as much patience and practice to get a good result from a sharpener as doing it by hand.
Posted
Quick question for your assistance please - the dynamo whines like a bugger on the Oxford at low RPM, is there somewhere to lubricate on it? I've never had a car with one before.

The series 2 manual I have makes reference to doing this but doesn't provide specifics..

Ta![/quote

 

Plain bearing at the rear of some have oil hole, others you need to dismantle and grease/ replace bush as required. Bearing at front is riveted in, replace if knacked, use small nuts and bolts to hold it in if you want. Electronic regulator is far better for future dynamo happiness than the awful new ones about. Hide inside regulator box if you find transistors offensive, I like to flaunt the new technology myself.

Posted

Titanium bits(really Titanium Nitride coated) are just HSS underneath the coating, they sharpen exactly the same and will bore holes as before. The coating doesn't affect the ability to bore holes, it reduces friction which helps the drills stay sharp longer and looks fancy which helps sell them over plain old black HSS.

No need for Cobalt (not really made of cobalt, just a fancy type of high speed steel with 1-2% cobalt), unless you're trying to drill some very ooh-er bolts made of unobtanium ordinary HSS is quite adequate as long as they're sharp, you use the right speed and some lubricant. I sharpen by hand, but sharpeners will do what you need too, although from what I can gather it takes as much patience and practice to get a good result from a sharpener as doing it by hand.

That's great thanks. I'd seen those 99 pce drill bits for a tenner on eBay but I'd imagine the quality would be dire.

Posted

That's great thanks. I'd seen those 99 pce drill bits for a tenner on eBay but I'd imagine the quality would be dire.

 

Exactly what I thought.

The box is decent quality and well labeled.

I test drilled with a 3.2mm into steel tube 2.5mm thick. Mostly use that size for my pop rivets

6 holes in rapid succession were fine, drill still good and many other drills of the same and various other sizes.

What more can you ask for 10p each?

 

Others sell the drills without box for less. I may try them now I have a box.

Posted

Quick question for your assistance please - the dynamo whines like a bugger on the Oxford at low RPM, is there somewhere to lubricate on it? I've never had a car with one before.

The series 2 manual I have makes reference to doing this but doesn't provide specifics..

Ta!

post-7547-0-76588900-1514899845_thumb.jpg

As requested here's the regulator. I had it on the larger Lucas dynamo as it was on a lorry. Output was on the limit for the regulator but it performed well until the engine got replaced by a diesel which came with alternator. Other regulators are available or you can cobble something up using a diode and reg. from an alternator.

Posted

My C4 VTS has been going into limp when under load at near maximum revs and after plugging into Diagbox/Lexia I got several codes all of which are ambiguous. One of these suggest air leak in the intake manifold. I have tried spraying easy start all around the throttle body, manifold and fanimold gasket to check for a change in revs indicating a leak (no change btw). Just thought before I rule this out I'd better check that easy start would do the trick as most people suggest carb cleaner (I didn't have any).

Posted

Not used my car in about 6 weeks owing to a totally duff battery and use of another car, got a new battery yesterday and started using it again, went to drive off and could feel and hear all the brakes 'free off', however after driving the car the steering wheel was a bit juddery like the wheels were slightly out of balance or something but no other symptoms, didnt feel otherwise any different, anyway used the car for a good 60-odd miles yesterday, switched the engine off and could hear a metallic tap, tap, tap noise, got out to listen to see where it was coming from, kneeled down with my ear to the drivers front wheel area and suddenly my face felt like it was getting blasted by a hairdryer on hottest heat, touched the drivers wheel and it was really really hot to the touch, all other wheels not so, guessing ive a partially seized or binding front caliper, probably from lying for so long, because it wasnt like this before it was parked up due to fucked battery.

 

Question is will giving the caliper a thump with a lump hammer help any? and also will the car be ok to drive if its heating the wheel up to such a heat after about an hours driving? because I need the car and cant get it into a garage until next week what with new year etc. 

Posted

I wouldn’t keep driving it - potential to fuck up the discs, caliper, even wheel bearing depending on how hot it’s getting. Pads might be fucked already

Posted

I wouldn’t keep driving it - potential to fuck up the discs, caliper, even wheel bearing depending on how hot it’s getting. Pads might be fucked already

 

What baffles me is earlier in the year I had a seized rear caliper, to the point it had wore away a good bit of the pad, and the disc was utterly shot as well, but there were no symptoms, no hot wheel, nothing else, I only discovered it when i put it in for a 4 wheel alignment and the guy doing it pointed it out.

 

This time it was just the tap tap tap which made me investigate the noise and just by chance felt the heat from it, it didnt feel like it was grabbing, or any funny noises, squeaks/squeals, anything to tell me it was seized on or any sluggishness or loss of power from having 1 corner of the car impaired by a force against oppositely against the motion of it. 

 

Not sure how its seized on the front from being parked up when obviously the front wheels arent braked when parked, not like rear brakes seizing on from the handbrake, am sort of hoping it just needs freed off, which is why I was thinking of smacking it with a lump hammer, like what we used to do to rear drum brakes on cars which had sat for ages and they had seized on. 

Posted

Hammers don’t fix calipers !

 

Water has got past poor seals and corroded the piston in the bore or seized the sliders

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