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Posted

VWs don't tend to go to your normal breakers, they go to VW specialist breakers who make Megabucks flogging stuff like the clocks, fancy steering wheels and alloys to people who own povo versions. The shells are then crushed.

 

There was a guy in Nottingham, reckoned if he bought a crashed good spec MK4 he could make the purchase price back in an hour on eBay by knowing what would fit into what. This was a few years back so Mk5 is probably at that stage now. Drag it in, engine and seats out, clocks and stereo, climate controls, lights, unboltable panels, wheels, brakes. Cost is two minimum wage spanner-wielders for about three hours, he was having shells taken away every day. Leave the glass, carpets, loom, anything that can't be detached in ten minutes.

  • Like 2
Posted

A little while ago I was keen on a factory built fibreglass car with a galvanised spaceframe chassis, about 25 years old. This was 300 miles away so after a bit of to and froing I asked the seller to sent pics of the worst bits, none bothered me except this one. It was sent with no explanation, I took it to show the rotten roof frame bursting through the fibreglass above the drivers door seal.

 

post-17633-0-91055300-1514117844_thumb.jpg

 

Team thoughts please? Did I read it wrong, is it just a cosmetic problem?  Sorry for the vague details but I wouldn't like some perhaps wrong internet speculation to kill the sale of a strangers car.

Posted

That looks to be exactly what you think. Frame rusting, swelling and bursting through the fibreglass.

  • Like 1
Posted

As somebody who has fixed various vehicles in France they probably don't do Haynes type manuals as they don't seem to have motor factors as such. All I ever seem to find were main dealers, supermarkets and scrapyards.

Posted

"...and, as engineers, the French make bloody good dress designers."

 

The Owd Giffer (1938- ), electronic/radar/analogue data recording engineer of the Old School; dates various.

 

;)

Posted

Quick one from me:

 

What are the possible symptoms of a fuel filter fitted the wrong way round?

 

Pa is having problems he is putting down to vapour lock, pump pressure, modern fuel, and I wondered if I had read on here about fuel filters causing problems.

Posted

Hmm. Ok.

 

I think he's having problems with it going all right for one journey then it not wanting to go next time he tries. So I wondered if the fuel was draining back to the tank or summat? Will quiz mother further (cos who talks to their dad on the phone, silly).

Posted

Not sure fuel filters can be put in the wrong way around. Most filters have fuel going in around the outside with the filtered fuel being drawn from the inside of the element.  Cartridge types cannot be fitted wrong, and most cylinder type filter elements don't matter which end goes in first unless they are of different sized openings (pretty obvious when fitting it).   If it's a new in-line filter (cheapo clear plastic type) then they can be fitted either way around but with the unfiltered fuel going in around the outside then you can see when it's got bits in there.

 

Hope that helps,

Bfg 

Posted

Ta

 

Fair play I doubt it is the problems seeing as he makes engines and stuff for a living but I just thought I'd read something on here

Posted

It sounds like the filter might not be sealing properly so it draws air in when running which will return to tank while the pump is going but gather in the pump, injectors and engine pipes when parked.  Take it off and try again.

  • Like 2
Posted

I have had a lot of faff with in line fuel filters, on cars and currently on my mower.

The problems go away if the filter is replaced. I think it MIGHT be due to water in the petrol: if the filter element gets wet with water, it won't pass petrol.

 

The inline plastic filters have an arrow on them because there is more space around the outside of the filter cone for debris - which you can then see. Main thing is, if they have been fitted one way, refit the same way so all the crud doesn't float off into the carburrettor.

Posted

(cos who talks to their dad on the phone, silly).

Nobody talks to their dad on the phone then? I thought it was just me.

 

'Hello'

'Hello'

'How's things?'

'Alright. How's your things?'

'Alright. I'll get your mother.'

  • Like 2
Posted

Nobody talks to their dad on the phone then? I thought it was just me.

 

'Hello'

'Hello'

'How's things?'

'Alright. How's your things?'

'Alright. I'll get your mother.'

 

That is so close to reality, I'm glad it's not just me.

 

I can have a 10min convo with my dad, we both catch up on everything. He then puts my mum on & I get the same convo I had with my dad another three times.

  • Like 2
Posted

It shows the alternator is working hard, not sure if that’s normal for them but can be a sign that either the bearings are getting tight or it’s about to go totally tits up. If it’s only dipping a few revs then probably nothing to worry about.

Posted

I wouldn't worry about it, it's a tiny engine suddenly getting a large load placed on it.

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm no expert on the subject but as I understand it most alternators only kick in above 1200 -1500 rpm, so the power draw on tick-over is from the battery. So the alternator might not have anything to do with the symptoms you are describing (other than not having a fully charged battery - which might be the battery itself or because the car is only ever used for short journeys with lights on all the time).

 

Particularly if the battery is a bit iffy ; turning the lights on would cause a drop of power to the ignition circuit, which would show the symptom of a drop in revs.  Mechanical contact breakers are better when there's low voltages, but electronic ignition units get to a point where the power drop is too much and although nothing seems to be wrong there's just not enough power to work.   

 

It may help if you check the battery's electrolyte (water) level is correct and then fully charge the battery, or else swap it out for a known good battery, and then see again.

 

On the other hand are the headlamp and sidelight bulbs all standard, or has a previous owner swapped them out for extra high wattage ?

 

If a full charged / strong battery makes no difference, then you might check for very high resistance in the lighting circuit, perhaps due to corroded wires or connections.  Remember though that the fault might not be at the more obvious headlamps but a rear lamp which illuminates at the same time.  Is one of these flickering, or dim ? 

 

Even if you have no electrical knowledge ; you still ought to be able to pull the electrical connections to each of those bulbs and to clean those up (a bit of fine wet n dry paper to sand off any sign of corrosion), and then to wipe / squeeze Vaseline into the connections before reconnecting. This will sort out 95% of high resistance issues across connections.

 

Hope that helps,

Bfg ;) 

Posted

Modern alternators charge as soon as the light is out . I've heard alternator drag on small engines before.

More modern stuff has a charge management system and raises revs / switches charging on and off as reqd

Posted

^ sorry if I've inadvertently misdirected someone, I know nothing about modern stuff. I'm firmly routed in the 1970's..  Not the nicest place to be but I can't get back to the 1950's or early 60's without having a lot more money.  

 

;)

Posted

Having just got a lockup rented, can anyone suggest who to go to for content insurance/laid up cover?

Posted

I doubt you'll find any, spend the money on increased security, Krank alarm mines are a good deterent.

Posted

Anyone have a ball park figure for council garage rental? NE England if makes a difference which I suspect it does.

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