Ask a Shiter

[cms206]

I really like your Lynx do you still have it?

 

It's away to a Proton Colony in Yorkshire with a nice bloke who owns a similar beige example. I just couldn't get on with it and the fact I am getting better fuel economy with the ex Pete M Vauxhall Senator.

[YugoLada]

I really like your Lynx do you still have it?

 

It's away to a Proton Colony in Yorkshire with a nice bloke who owns a similar beige example. I just couldn't get on with it and the fact I am getting better fuel economy with the ex Pete M Vauxhall Senator.

Ok thanks for letting me know

[catsinthewelder]

Would replacing

 

 

with

 

 

really be seen as an improvement?

[YugoLada]

I have to say the Gen 2 saloon is much better looking.

[Morgan84]

The proton won't have a headgasket eating engine,and if you need anything major spares wise such as control units etc,you will have a easier ride with the Proton,than the MG/Rover which is limited to a race to the breakers,and hope whats there hasn't had the vultures at it already !!

 

As it happens,I like both cars,but the MG interior is more to my liking

[Cavcraft]

I'm not sure why there's so much vitriol for old 'YugoLada', he strikes me as utterly harmless.

 

 

Harmless but strange. I just added him to my 'blocked' list, seems easier that way.

[pompei]

There seem to be plenty of Eastern European registered cars for sale on Ebay. How would you go about getting one legit? Is it just a question of getting an MoT and heading down to the DVLA?

[Ross_K]

There seem to be plenty of Eastern European registered cars for sale on Ebay. How would you go about getting one legit? Is it just a question of getting an MoT and heading down to the DVLA?

 

In a nutshell - get an MOT, fill out a V55/5 and bung the DVLA 55 quid.

 

It's all here:

http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/Bu ... DG_4022583

[Guest]

OMFG, Protons?!

[catsinthewelder]

Is it any worse than Tata's?

[Pete-M]

[maxpower]

i am thinking of putting alloys on my connect van, but read on a ford forum that because they are not classed as van wheels they can make your insurance null and void... is this the case? though ford do sell vans with alloys on them so how come it doesn't apply to those vans?

i was going to use the alloys from the mongdeo but thats when i was told the above, because they are "car wheels" it could cancel my insurance

 

can't say i have ever heard of that happening before.

[YugoLada]

I'm not sure why there's so much vitriol for old 'YugoLada', he strikes me as utterly harmless.

 

 

Harmless but strange. I just added him to my 'blocked' list, seems easier that way.

Why? I'm really sorry I've been annoying can you please give me a chance!

[Cheggers]

i am thinking of putting alloys on my connect van, but read on a ford forum that because they are not classed as van wheels they can make your insurance null and void... is this the case? though ford do sell vans with alloys on them so how come it doesn't apply to those vans?

i was going to use the alloys from the mongdeo but thats when i was told the above, because they are "car wheels" it could cancel my insurance

 

can't say i have ever heard of that happening before.

 

I know you can buy van-specific tyres which are rated to carry more weight than the same size car ones, but I'd be surprised if fitting alloys invalidates your insurance (providing, of course, you tell them about the "modification")

[willswitchengage]

Car pwoblem

 

Got two slow flats, both LHS. Can't find any nails in the front - haven't looked at the back yet. Been only going down for the past month or so, I have to go to the local air station every 1-2 weeks for a top-up. Newish Michelin Energys and I don't kerb the car or mong around in it, so I guess it's just one of those poorly fitted valve etc type slow leaks, grrr.

 

Does anybody know of any Holts-radweld type product, but for tyres, that you can recommend? Or am I just fucked?

[KruJoe]

Are the rims a bit rusty where they touch the tyre? Or pain flaking off alloys?

That's usually first to be eliminated from my inquiries.

[John F]

Car pwoblem

 

Got two slow flats, both LHS. Can't find any nails in the front - haven't looked at the back yet. Been only going down for the past month or so, I have to go to the local air station every 1-2 weeks for a top-up. Newish Michelin Energys and I don't kerb the car or mong around in it, so I guess it's just one of those poorly fitted valve etc type slow leaks, grrr.

 

Does anybody know of any Holts-radweld type product, but for tyres, that you can recommend? Or am I just fucked?

 

There are various different brands of tyre sealant on the market, but if you have alloy wheels there's a good chance that the bead isn't sealing properly, as KruJoe says. Or, as you say, you have leaking valves. If I were you I'd have the tyres re-seated & the valves checked, it'll cost less than the tyre sealant...!

[skattrd]

Car pwoblem

 

Got two slow flats, both LHS. Can't find any nails in the front - haven't looked at the back yet. Been only going down for the past month or so, I have to go to the local air station every 1-2 weeks for a top-up. Newish Michelin Energys and I don't kerb the car or mong around in it, so I guess it's just one of those poorly fitted valve etc type slow leaks, grrr.

 

Does anybody know of any Holts-radweld type product, but for tyres, that you can recommend? Or am I just fucked?

 

I used some of the "tyre-weld" on a couple of slow punctures a while ago, did the trick and the tyres never lost air again. I thought it was great. Since then I've tried it on a couple of other tyres that lost air slowly and it made no difference, I ended up taking them for the tyre to be re-fitted ... They took the tyre off the rim, scraped the rim, replaced the valve, I think I paid £10 for that. A can of tyre weld is usually £7ish, although sometimes half price in supermarkets, its worth £3-4.

 

My conclusion ... 50/50 on tyre-weld, but I usually carry a can with me (as well as spare wheel/tyre)

[M'coli]

You could try spraying with soapy water to where the bubbles are coming from.

[Cavcraft]

'All of the above' also (apologies if already suggested) take wheels off, lie them flat on the floor, pour water of the base of the valve and wiggle it about.

 

First stop though would be to spit on the end of your finger and smear it over the top of the valve core. If it bubbles then you have your culprit and it's a simple case of tightening it up.

Are you on steels or alloys? If the latter and the beads are leaking it's worth asking the tyre house to remove the tyres and spin the wheels on the balancer whilst holding a wire brush against them. Then splodge beadsealer round and blow tyres up to about 50 or 60psi and gently deflate to correct pressure. This does work on steels too by the way.

[willswitchengage]

'All of the above' also (apologies if already suggested) take wheels off, lie them flat on the floor, pour water of the base of the valve and wiggle it about.

 

First stop though would be to spit on the end of your finger and smear it over the top of the valve core. If it bubbles then you have your culprit and it's a simple case of tightening it up.

Are you on steels or alloys? If the latter and the beads are leaking it's worth asking the tyre house to remove the tyres and spin the wheels on the balancer whilst holding a wire brush against them. Then splodge beadsealer round and blow tyres up to about 50 or 60psi and gently deflate to correct pressure. This does work on steels too by the way.

 

Thanks (and to everybody else) - tried hosing them down to remove any stones, dog turd etc and then looked under my soapy water magnifying glass - the rims were as still as Lake Constance, even with valve wiggling. Oh well, found my old 12v portapump so they're good for another week or so - but the rim skimming sounds like the best plan/that or tyreweld. Just a little puzzled as to why both started getting flat at exactly the same time

 

**edit also yes they're Speedline alloys, on the correct car with the right tyres.

[Cavcraft]

If they're new tyres it's possible the rim was disturbed when the old ones came off and the slightest bit of pitting or flaking paint on the inner rim could cause them not to seal properly.

 

I'll keep checking this page anyhow, nothing to do with the picture Pete M' s posted of course!

[Guest]

I'm not sure why there's so much vitriol for old 'YugoLada', he strikes me as utterly harmless.

 

 

Harmless but strange. I just added him to my 'blocked' list, seems easier that way.

Why? I'm really sorry I've been annoying can you please give me a chance!

 

Well, you could stop posting inane shit about Protons. And maybe just create one thread, about Protons, and carry on adding to it. Rather than starting new threads. Asking one question. About Protons.

 

You can do what you like though, there's nowt I can do to stop you. I just don't want to read endless threads about tiny aspects of Protons. I'd be on a Proton forum if I wanted that. Couple of serious Proton threads, no worries - it's Autoshite - Protons are definitely 'on trend'. Derailing threads onto Protons and randomly dumping new threads onto the main board asking one question - about Protons - that gets fatiguing. There's a lot of Proton love on Old Japanese Car too, that's run by Hirst (http://www.oldjapanesecar.com)

 

And yeah, I know none of the rules are explained and there's no sub sections to the main board. So that's a heads-up. You won't know this, but around this time last year the whole forum went to shit because a few of the more militant (now ex) members on here decided to kick off about new posters making daft mistakes that could have been easily rectified with a bit of gentle directing.

 

Sincerely,

 

Hypocrite [Grunting Mong Division]

Cheshire

[John F]

 

Harmless but strange. I just added him to my 'blocked' list, seems easier that way.

Why? I'm really sorry I've been annoying can you please give me a chance!

 

Well, you could stop posting inane shit about Protons. And maybe just create one thread, about Protons, and carry on adding to it. Rather than starting new threads. Asking one question. About Protons.

 

You can do what you like though, there's nowt I can do to stop you. I just don't want to read endless threads about tiny aspects of Protons. I'd be on a Proton forum if I wanted that. Couple of serious Proton threads, no worries - it's Autoshite - Protons are definitely 'on trend'. Derailing threads onto Protons and randomly dumping new threads onto the main board asking one question - about Protons - that gets fatiguing. There's a lot of Proton love on Old Japanese Car too, that's run by Hirst (http://www.oldjapanesecar.com)

 

And yeah, I know none of the rules are explained and there's no sub sections to the main board. So that's a heads-up. You won't know this, but around this time last year the whole forum went to shit because a few of the more militant (now ex) members on here decided to kick off about new posters making daft mistakes that could have been easily rectified with a bit of gentle directing.

 

Sincerely,

 

Hypocrite [Grunting Mong Division]

Cheshire

 

+1

[vulgalour]

Steamy windows (not the Tina Turner song, though it is a cracking tune): what causes them? I found I suffered rather chronically from steamy windows when driving back from the club meet a few days ago in the absolute pouring rain. I could only get the windscreen to clear with the blowers and the rear screen to mostly clear with the heater element, but the side windows remained stubbornly fogged up no matter what I tried.

[willswitchengage]

Steamy windows (not the Tina Turner song, though it is a cracking tune): what causes them? I found I suffered rather chronically from steamy windows when driving back from the club meet a few days ago in the absolute pouring rain. I could only get the windscreen to clear with the blowers and the rear screen to mostly clear with the heater element, but the side windows remained stubbornly fogged up no matter what I tried.

 

Like this?

[Timewaster]

Should that not be DAMP air, rather than just warm air?

 

Problems could be damp in the car, wet carpets or underlay perhaps or poor ventilation. Cars generally have some sort of air vent at the back to allow a flow of air, if this vent is blocked it can seriously limit the abiltity of the blower.

[vulgalour]

@will: Lose 5 internets for providing me with a link to a Titanic clip, you sir are a bounder and a cad!

 

Rovamota over on the Princess forum tells me this is a thing Princesses are prone to. Bit annoying if that is the case, as much as it gives me the nostalgia of being in my Dad's old Datsun or Ital when I was a wee sprog. I'm guessing cloths are going to be the only solution to this one as the cabin isn't damp and there's not really any air movement over the side glass on the inside, which is where the worst of the condensation is. I suspect it being very wet and a bit nippy outside with three people inside the car having just eaten fish and chips contributed to the problem, but I had expected the windows to clear by the time I got home, it's a 30-45 minute drive after all.

[jonathan_dyane]

On the 'steamy windows' front, I've always found either having the quarter light (although I don't think princess' have them) or drivers window open 1/4 of an inch is most helpful.

[vulgalour]

I had two of the windows cracked open a bit but it didn't clear the side windows at all, you're right I have no quarter lights. I've had occasional fogging up issues in the Polo, but cracking the window open a bit always resolved it quickly, not so on the Princess.