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Posted

Don't tell him that for God's sake, he'll have it in bits by the weekend.

It's safe, I can't alloy weld and new doors...  for the dollop... ££££££ :(

Posted

So I've got the Lawn and Cement back together but it won't start. I thought the fuel pump timing might be 180 degrees out but I've tried it in both positions assuming one is right and it still won't start. WTF LOL HALP? Would it take a lot of priming after sitting for a while with the injector lines disconnected?

 

It's a 2002 Octavia TDI with a VE pump btw.

 Have you cranked it with the injector pipe nuts that go to the injectors slackened first to remove air and see if diesel is getting to the injectors?

Posted

No I didn't think to do that, it's been turned over enough on the starter now that it should be primed.

I noticed this time that two of the injectors are wet at the top and two aren't. Bad timing?

Posted

The system isn't self priming, you need to spin it over with all 4 injectors cracked off to make sure all 4 are getting fuel before it will start.

 

If the lines are full of air it will take hours and hours of cranking to "inject" all the air into the engine and let the fuel through.

  • Like 2
Posted

Is it an MOT failure to not have an opening drivers door, inside or outside?

 

Bound to be as my bloody gonna has decided that both rear doors should stop working from inside or outside at the same time.

 

Anyone know how to get into the door without destroying the door skin or door card?

Posted

No I didn't think to do that, it's been turned over enough on the starter now that it should be primed.

I noticed this time that two of the injectors are wet at the top and two aren't. Bad timing?

What engine is it? Old school diesels will not self bleed as already said. Most have one or more bleeders on the injection pump, usually you can purge this with the hand hand primer. When the injection pump is air free you can move on to the injectors. If the injection pump has any air in it it will not inject, it will merely compress the air instead of moving fuel down the pipes.

Posted

Not having an dishwasher tablets due to not having a dishwasher I've put a capful of non-bio washing liquid in the goona's header tank to flush out the ungrateful pile of snail licking french wank before treating it to antifreeze (its on nearly pure water currently).

 

Any bets on it exploding in a pile of bubbles just like an indeshite washer tomorrow?

Posted

VE TDI, no hand primer and no secondary pump, just the injection pump

Ah. I read Lawn and Cement and assumed something even more agicultural than a Skoda, - too cryptic for me. Fuel pump relay? Vw's of that age like to muller them.

Posted

Sporty mk2 escorts & mk3 cortina GT mk4 cortina S. Have a black rear panel.

  • Like 2
Posted

With working:

 

1km in 54 seconds. (54/60 is 9/10)

Divide 54 by 9 is 6. 1km divided by 9 is 111 metres.

Multiple both bits by 10 to get dist over a minute.

6 x 10 is 60. 111 x 10 is 1.11km

Multiple both bits by 60 to get to dist over an hour.

60 x 60 is 360 (1h) and 1.11 x 60 is 66.6

 

Then converted 66.6 divide by 8 is 8.36 then multiply by 5 (1km approx 5/8th (0.625) mile) and that is 41.8mph

 

All done without calculator...

Check to see if the handbrake's jammed on.

Posted

I'm doubting myself but top hose to the radiator cold but cars temp gauge reading hot means stuck thermostat right?

 

Can that be temporary as I drove the car home and both hoses (in and out) were then hot?

Posted

It can also mean closed thermostat, which is normal.

Posted

Following on from my Skoda COOLING MISERY which is now FUELLING MISERY, I've got the fuel system bled and it attempts to fire but doesn't quite get there - would it do this with the injection timing 180 degrees out? Ran out of light.

Posted

No chance at all of firing with timing 180 degrees out.

Do you mean 180 crank degrees or 180 pump degrees?

Posted

Ok, with pump timing 180 degrees wrong, injection would occur 1 crankshaft revolution later / earlier, when one valve is closing and the other opening, ie not much pressure in the combustion chamber, so no firing.

  • Like 1
Posted

Why do I have ............. 0 warning points underneath my post count ?

I didn't put it there.

Posted

Why do I have ............. 0 warning points underneath my post count ?

I didn't put it there.

Because you've not called enough people naughty words yet.
  • Like 2
Posted

180 pump degrees.

 

180 out is unlikely but there is enough timing adjustment on the pump mountings to be far enough out to not quite start.

 

Try loosening the pump mounting bolts and moving the pump A TINY BIT (like 1mm at a time), I think anti-clockwise as you look from the cambelt end is to advance.

 

Once you've got it close enough to start it needs setting properly with VAG-COM really.

  • Like 1
Posted

It is likely unfortunately because I'm a fud who didn't lock the IP pulley at first and wheeled it around.

Posted

It already has a Bosch pump.

I reckon diesel pump failure is unlikely, they either work or they don't. Probably something more trivial.

Posted

It already has a Bosch pump.

I reckon diesel pump failure is unlikely, they either work or they don't. Probably something more trivial.

That was my thoughts. He said it feels as if the turbot is boosting. I reckon hose off somewhere.
Posted

various campers and coachbuilt minibuses don't have a driver's door and it;s fairly typical on full size PCVs ...

Fair point - didn't think about that

Posted

I currently only have trolley jacks / axle stands. What would I gain from buying some ramps?

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

Posted

I currently only have trolley jacks / axle stands. What would I gain from buying some ramps?

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

Speed if you don't need free access to the wheel area

  • Like 1
Posted

I currently only have trolley jacks / axle stands. What would I gain from buying some ramps?

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

Check you have suitable clearance around the front valance/spoiler.........

  • Like 1

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