loserone Posted August 31, 2016 Posted August 31, 2016 Micra squeak sounds like a bottom ball joint gone dry. Yeah, sorry for just dumping a (different) K11 micra on you this afternoon with no notice. You'll be fed up of them (and me) in no time I'm sure. With the Kia now no longer in my possession, the Toledo is having money spent on it, which leads to my stupid question: If the springs need changing, should I also get new shocks? Presumably after 120k they're likely to be past their best?
scaryoldcortina Posted August 31, 2016 Posted August 31, 2016 I don't get fed up of work. (well, ok, maybe sometimes!) Yes, new shocks probably would be a good idea if you feel like being all spendy and that! PS, I did tell you that bearing was noisy...
loserone Posted August 31, 2016 Posted August 31, 2016 You did indeed, and it's only gotten worse. Who'd have thunk it?
cort1977 Posted August 31, 2016 Posted August 31, 2016 What would I need to know about merc e300 estates, (the ones about an x reg and with twin round headlights.) .Probably dieasal with a decent sized engine (e320cdi for example). I'm not finding the volvo that comfortable, so looking to change, to a.n.other big, comfy estate. Rust, rust and rust? Gearbox? Any shennigans like swirl flaps, dmf's, hideous cambelts to consider? Will it offer camry / v70 levels of reliability? something along the lines ofhttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/mercedes-benz-e320-cdi-/282151363388http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mecedes-E-320-cdi-elegance-5-door-estate-2001-/122102850092 (neither of those have a tow bar showing - do they have a hideaway one as standard or will I need to budget for one?)I have a pez E320. Rust in the tailgate, rear arches, front wings. 2wd models may have dangerous rust in front spring supports. 4matics have a different design so not affected. Apart from rust I like mine, a little too old for DMFs and swirl flaps I think. I don't think anything will be as reliable as a Camry but they're not a bad old bus. Except for the rust. Did I mention rust? scdan4 1
Stanky Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 How bad an idea is it (following on from the '4x tyres for sale' thread I;ve just posted) to look for 4x steel wheels to fit a 1.4 Nissan Almera to accomnodate 4x 155/65 r14 tyres. Standard fitment is 175/70 r13 but I think I might be able to find some similar vintage Micra or possible almera 14" wheels but is losing 2cm of tread width per tyre a gr8 way to kill myself? I assume so but thought I'd ask anyway. Obvs the speedo will be a bit out too, but this is a possible way of turning my incompetence into a passable outcome. The Nissan ought to get 4 new tyres before the winter anyway, hence why I'm asking.
Noel Tidybeard Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 185/60r14 would be best compromise:- 175/70-13 is 1734.76 mm circumference185/60-14 is 1742 mm which would give an actual speed of 70.72 at an indicated 70mph (depending on how accurate the speedo is) 155/65-14 is 1680.17 mm which gives 67.8mph
MarvinsMom Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 when did BINI's stop using the midland gearbox? anything to look for in one, i was thinking of around 05-06 model in ONE flavour, possibly convertible for extra stupid flippin' hairdresser points and i guess 1600 engine. any advice/suggestions not to be fuggin' stupid would be much appreciated. and yes, i have said lost of nasty things about BINI's in the past, and i'm feeling pretty dirty bout thing of looking at one. i could of course do something really retarded like buy a second hand alfa instead.....
Stanky Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 185/60r14 would be best compromise:- 175/70-13 is 1734.76 mm circumference185/60-14 is 1742 mm which would give an actual speed of 70.72 at an indicated 70mph (depending on how accurate the speedo is) 155/65-14 is 1680.17 mm which gives 67.8mph Less rolling circumerence is less bad than more rolling circumerence - I'd rather the speedo overread by a bit then underread. Unfortunately the tyres are the non-negotiable bit here!
MarvinsMom Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 instead of a BINI, would a Fiat 500 be a better steer? discuss please....
spike60 Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 What does it take to get a kit car registered? There's one for sale fairly local, appears built but seller says needs test. Is this SVA? What's involved?
dave21478 Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 I would be careful of that kit car. Its like the old "wont need much to pass the MOT m8" thing....yeah? so why dont you put it through yourself and sell it at a higher price?If the kit cas been built to SVA standards then it might be fine, but if he has just boshed something together or if the start of the build pre-dates the current test regulations you might have problems. The locostbuilders forum is full of knowledge about the test. spike60 1
Matt Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 I've got an old Selmar battery charger but the insulation on the wires leading to the clips has broken away and bare copper is showing right outside the units body. Does anyone know a bit about battery chargers? It would seem a shame to throw it away for a reasonably small issue but I have no idea if it's even remotely safe to open one of these things up or if modern ones are better/safer/more efficient to there point where I might as well replace it.
Inspector Morose Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 Perfectly fine to open up an change the wires. No they're not as sophisticated as modern ones and the output is a little rough but as chargers go, they're indestructible. Perfectly fine for 99% of what's needed on older cars. Asimo and Nicola H 2
Laseraligningfoofooflanges Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 Can you really shag the seals in a brake master cylinder by pushing the brake pedal right down when bleeding?
NorfolkNWeigh Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 instead of a BINI, would a Fiat 500 be a better steer? discuss please....No, Fiat 500s are horrible little things. Whenever I drive ours I'm shocked how slow ( 1.2 Lounge) and uncomfortable it is compared to the X reg Arosa 1.0 which is the only other small car we own.Recently we realised it hadn't been used for nearly a month because everyone would rather use something else. Although my oldest has stopped using the e34 for her 90 mile round trip commute and started using the Fiat, she still prefers the knackered old Beemer to use at weekends though. I don't like Minis ether, but they are a laugh to drive and feel well put together , Id like a reason to buy a Traveller thing because the back doors are funky.
Richard Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 Can you really shag the seals in a brake master cylinder by pushing the brake pedal right down when bleeding? i-have-no-idea-what-i-amp-039-m-doing_o_1737525.jpg It moves the seals to a bit of the bore they don't usually come in contact with. If that bit of the bore is damaged or corroded it can damage the seals. Morgan84 and tooSavvy 2
AlabamaShrimp Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 Very stiff bonnet catch on the mk1 Ka I'm desperate to get rid of. Eventually get it open and and get part of it working again with tons of fake wd-40 but now the bastard won't lock closed. What do I do? Cover the twat in oil? Take it off, then k er it in oil or just stick a scrap one on. Looks a bugger to get off that and I've never done one before. BTW anyone want to buy it
Asimo Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 bonnet catch might be stuck in open position because the cable is equally rusty / full of grit etc. Push the latch closed, pull the release lever and repeat with oil on the bit of release cable you can see. Ideally get someone in the car pulling the release alternating with you pushing the latch closed. just work it a bit, it'll free off. WarningI didnt bother to do this after fighting a Golf bonnet open. Bastard bonnet blew open on a test drive and smashed the screen. Game over, swapped it for a slab of Speckled Hen.
Snipes Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 Can you really shag the seals in a brake master cylinder by pushing the brake pedal right down when bleeding? i-have-no-idea-what-i-amp-039-m-doing_o_1737525.jpgWe call it "flipping the seals" in the trade.
Laseraligningfoofooflanges Posted September 2, 2016 Posted September 2, 2016 Guess i may have fucked it then .
Snipes Posted September 3, 2016 Posted September 3, 2016 Doesnt happen very often but if you've suddenly lost the pedal and can't find anything else wrong....
Eddie Honda Posted September 3, 2016 Posted September 3, 2016 but I have no idea if it's even remotely safe to open one of these things up or if modern ones are better/safer/more efficient to there point where I might as well replace it. Safe as houses. Just check the tin box is earthed. I've got two identical ones as all modernz are shit and smart ones are so dumb they won't get a dead dead battery kicked into life.
The Moog Posted September 3, 2016 Posted September 3, 2016 Confused.com is now asking for driving licence number when you get a quote (it's optional). They say it may reduce your quote Why would they do that ?
Des Posted September 3, 2016 Posted September 3, 2016 Insurance companies love collating insignificant details. Pillock and The Moog 2
burraston2006 Posted September 3, 2016 Posted September 3, 2016 So they can check whether you're telling porkies about those speeding tickets! The Moog and Nicola H 2
AlabamaShrimp Posted September 3, 2016 Posted September 3, 2016 bonnet catch might be stuck in open position because the cable is equally rusty / full of grit etc. Push the latch closed, pull the release lever and repeat with oil on the bit of release cable you can see. Ideally get someone in the car pulling the release alternating with you pushing the latch closed. just work it a bit, it'll free off. WarningI didnt bother to do this after fighting a Golf bonnet open. Bastard bonnet blew open on a test drive and smashed the screen. Game over, swapped it for a slab of Speckled Hen.I'll give this a go and make sure everything that can move should and then cover it in oil, ta.
Lacquer Peel Posted September 3, 2016 Posted September 3, 2016 The Skoda's old cylinder head has an injector stuck in it, which makes me think the previous owner was talking shite about skimming the head last year otherwise he'd have skimmed the injector nozzle too.Any ideas for getting it out? I've soaked it in penetrating oil and keep trying to wiggle it out, the other three came out okay.
worldofceri Posted September 3, 2016 Posted September 3, 2016 Asimo, Lacquer Peel, cobblers and 1 other 4
tooSavvy Posted September 3, 2016 Posted September 3, 2016 It moves the seals to a bit of the bore they don't usually come in contact with. If that bit of the bore is damaged or corroded it can damage the seals.The FIAT forum also refer to 'soft return spring'[not sure if SpaghettiSpecific]... Pedal long downstroke = gameover I put a wood block under the Panda(750L FIRE) to go just 60% No probbs 4me TS Laseraligningfoofooflanges 1
Laseraligningfoofooflanges Posted September 3, 2016 Posted September 3, 2016 Well ive done it now grr.. just gonna have to be more careful in future and hope for the best
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