HH-R Posted July 3, 2016 Posted July 3, 2016 Tigras are quite nice looking on the outside, but yeuch, that dashboard. GM can't make a nice interior to save their lives. Lacquer Peel, Tamworthbay and saucedoctor 3
castros_bro Posted July 4, 2016 Posted July 4, 2016 Not a stupid question, is the 1.9 XUD lump is a Rover 218D the same as the 1.9 XUD lump in a n/a Citroen ZX with respect to a changing the cam belt/ tensioner/idler/ water pump and keeping the timing with the 8mm timing holes?
Lacquer Peel Posted July 4, 2016 Posted July 4, 2016 Not a stupid question, is the 1.9 XUD lump is a Rover 218D the same as the 1.9 XUD lump in a n/a Citroen ZX with respect to a changing the cam belt/ tensioner/idler/ water pump and keeping the timing with the 8mm timing holes?Identical. castros_bro 1
Lacquer Peel Posted July 4, 2016 Posted July 4, 2016 Non! I've owned a 218D and various PSA diesels, there are no fundamental differences in the engines.
AlabamaShrimp Posted July 6, 2016 Posted July 6, 2016 Oil pressure gauge was jumping about all over the place this morning on the Frontera. Is this normal? I know it used to be on old cars that it moved a lot or maybe it's not that I've noticed it before as it did settle down after a while.
Heidel_Kakao Posted July 6, 2016 Posted July 6, 2016 Oil pressure gauge was jumping about all over the place this morning on the Frontera. Is this normal? I know it used to be on old cars that it moved a lot or maybe it's not that I've noticed it before as it did settle down after a while. Could just be a dodgy sender. I had similar on a car once which shit me up thinking the engine was knackered but a new sender returned it to normality.
Guest Hooli Posted July 6, 2016 Posted July 6, 2016 Mrs Pirate's Saab (2001 9-3 petrol) is leaking oil where the drain from the turbo goes into the engine (just above the oil filter). It's a banjo type connection and I've replaced the copper washers, but it's even worse now and absolutely pissing out. Anyone got any ideas what's going wrong here?Dodgy pipe? I've had the crimped section of oil pipes fail due to corrosion a couple of times.
DSdriver Posted July 6, 2016 Posted July 6, 2016 Mrs Pirate's Saab (2001 9-3 petrol) is leaking oil where the drain from the turbo goes into the engine (just above the oil filter). It's a banjo type connection and I've replaced the copper washers, but it's even worse now and absolutely pissing out. Anyone got any ideas what's going wrong here?Try annealing the copper washes (heat them up until the glow red hot then plunge them in cold water) cos copper hardens with age and goes from bright pink to dull brown.Also check for cracks in the solder joint where the banjo unit is soldered to the pipe. if it is a bolt through banjo it needs washers both sides.Check bolt hasn't been cross threaded.erm... that's all I can think of.
Guest Hooli Posted July 6, 2016 Posted July 6, 2016 Can anyone tell me why the stereo buttons in the xantia don't work? Thanks Battery gone flat waiting for the AA?
Guest Hooli Posted July 6, 2016 Posted July 6, 2016 Is there a separate plug for them in the back of the head unit?
AlabamaShrimp Posted July 6, 2016 Posted July 6, 2016 Could just be a dodgy sender. I had similar on a car once which shit me up thinking the engine was knackered but a new sender returned it to normality.Think that's what it is as on two more trips it's been steady
AMC Rebel Posted July 7, 2016 Posted July 7, 2016 WTF is causing this on my Puma? Tank is nearly full - but I certainly didn't fill it this full and this is 20 miles after I last filled it. Only reason I removed the cap is I was curious about the stench of fuel - is it making it's own?
Noel Tidybeard Posted July 7, 2016 Posted July 7, 2016 some cars dont like being full when the currant bun is out AMC Rebel 1
Dave_Q Posted July 7, 2016 Posted July 7, 2016 Possible blocked breather of some sort, and/or expansion due to heat as suggested by the Hon. member above, because SCIENCE. AMC Rebel 1
Lacquer Peel Posted July 7, 2016 Posted July 7, 2016 What do I need to do here? I bought an Alpine mechless bluetooth head unit from eBay, nice it is too, but it doesn't turn off with the ignition and doesn't keep presets or remember bluetooth devices when I switch it off at the button.
Kiltox Posted July 7, 2016 Posted July 7, 2016 Usually you need to swap the yellow and red wires Lacquer Peel 1
Jazoli Posted July 7, 2016 Posted July 7, 2016 Swap the red and yellow wires over, not all wiring harnesses are the same and the switched live and permanent live can be the wrong way round. Edit typed as Killtox posted Kiltox, Lacquer Peel and Nicola H 3
scdan4 Posted July 7, 2016 Posted July 7, 2016 Is it me or does this artistic impression of swindons new, yet to be built school have a delorean parked outside it? http://www.swindonadvertiser.co.uk/news/14605436.Plans_for___21m_secondary_school_unveiled_with_new_primary_school_in_pipeline/ seems a bit random. HillmanImp and gm 2
Tamworthbay Posted July 7, 2016 Posted July 7, 2016 Is it me or does this artistic impression of swindons new, yet to be built school have a delorean parked outside it? http://www.swindonadvertiser.co.uk/news/14605436.Plans_for___21m_secondary_school_unveiled_with_new_primary_school_in_pipeline/ seems a bit random. I'd like to work somewhere with a delorean in the car park.
HH-R Posted July 7, 2016 Posted July 7, 2016 VAG, Voxul and Fiats quite often need the wire changing trick for aftermarket radios.
Guest Hooli Posted July 7, 2016 Posted July 7, 2016 Wot they all said about swapping red n yellow over.
Petrolize Posted July 8, 2016 Posted July 8, 2016 Sometimes on longer trips in my Rover 618i from where I am from in the north of Scotland to visit relatives in north Wales I wondered; does driving at [theoretically] outside-lane British motorway speeds for long periods actually cause any long term effects on the engine etc.Sure, it will speed up the wear and tear of consumables, tyres etc, but does it actually cause anything long term (imagine engine is under more strain, higher revs etc). Assume car is well serviced, going a hyperthetical steady 77mph* [* or possibly a little higher]
scdan4 Posted July 8, 2016 Posted July 8, 2016 Most wear happens (i believe) on start up - no/low oil pressure allowing wear. Cruising along on the motorway is easy street for the engine - everything up to temp and pressure, not huge stress. So long term I would say it was better.
robinmasters Posted July 9, 2016 Posted July 9, 2016 Brakes on hydropnuematic Citroens; how do they work? I believe the brake pedal operates a valve, letting the magical juices flow into the brake circuit. Presumably then, when you release pedal the valve the valve closes. Why doesn't brake circuit remain pressurised?
Inspector Morose Posted July 10, 2016 Posted July 10, 2016 Basically because another valve in the brake valve opens when you release and lets the fluid back to the tank.Quite simple really.
Noel Tidybeard Posted July 10, 2016 Posted July 10, 2016 Basically because another valve in the brake valve opens when you release and lets the fluid back to the tank.Magic is howQuite simple really. FIFY The Moog, myglaren and anonymous user 3
Stanky Posted July 26, 2016 Posted July 26, 2016 Modern + Vauxhall content - Bonus accumulator hatred question. 08 plate Vauxhall Corsa - blower won't work on any speeds. I initially diagnosed it had eaten the variable resistor again and a new one was ordered. Fitted it tonight (this is the second time I've done that job so know what I'm doing) and no difference, it won't work on any speed setting. I broke out my multimeter and it showed than on setting 4, live and earth had 12v across them, and at each speed setting there was 12v across two of the pins which indicates to me that the speed control knob works as it clearly switches the circuits at different speeds. So next up was the fuse for the blower motor which was fine. I swapped it for an alternative known-good 30a one and still no dice. Finally I checked the 2-pin plug that goes to the blower motor, there was no voltage across the pins at any speed setting. I double-checked it with a different multimeter and also checked the 12v socket inside which worked fine, so the multimeter seems to be able to be belived. There was no sign of the plug overheating and melting. There is a lot of guff about the resistor packs being faulty, but I'm sure its not this. There is nothing I could find about having no power at the blower motor connector. I'd suspect the blower motor had seized, but I'd expect there to still be 12v between the pins even if it is seized, and that it'd have been noisy on its way out. This is the neighbours son's car and I'm doing the 'good neighbour' thing and failing. Any suggestions or obvious things I've missed?
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