Pillock Posted April 27, 2016 Posted April 27, 2016 There's a Scenic for sale on eBay, a runner but with no test. The seller says "It will need a trailer to take away because of the new laws." What new laws are those then? Sod's Law states that a Scenic advertised as a runner won't last more than ten minutes so it might as well start the journey on a trailer Supernaut, anonymous user, Cavcraft and 1 other 4
scdan4 Posted April 27, 2016 Posted April 27, 2016 I'm breaking a 9-5 and a 9-3 thanks, but I used an ebay bit in the end. Heater flap control arm - apparently they don't age well so splashed 15 quid on a new one.
Station Posted April 29, 2016 Posted April 29, 2016 What are Mercedes A-Class cars like (1.7 diesel). If new MOT and cheap, I like the look of them, they're modern. Are they that bad?
cort16 Posted April 29, 2016 Posted April 29, 2016 The interior has the build quality of a farm foods yoghurt tub, cvt auto boxes blow up. Best to avoid Elk when driving one. Lacquer Peel, Rocket88 and Cavcraft 3
doug Posted April 29, 2016 Posted April 29, 2016 Had one for 10 years, a 1.4 petrol though. Now a bit rusty. In 10 years changed a couple of crank sensors. Thats all thats went wrong. Been super reliable. Pish to drive tho.
scaryoldcortina Posted April 30, 2016 Posted April 30, 2016 anti roll bar drop link - grab the anti roll bar where it connects to the suspension and pull - if you can feel play you found your clonk. CGSB 1
Rocket88 Posted April 30, 2016 Posted April 30, 2016 Paint question.............just rattle-canned front wing of Volvo [metallic Blackcurrant, ftw...] got a reasonable finish, 3 coats of rattle can lacquer......no runs, looks ok, but not as shiny as rest of panels. Any suggestions... G3/fine sanding/more lacquer?
Pillock Posted April 30, 2016 Posted April 30, 2016 What's the little clip for on the trigger of every petrol pump I've ever used? I thought it was a way of locking it on so you could sit in the car until it clicks off, but if it is I can't work it. Craig the Princess 1
Richard Posted April 30, 2016 Posted April 30, 2016 What's the little clip for on the trigger of every petrol pump I've ever used? I thought it was a way of locking it on so you could sit in the car until it clicks off, but if it is I can't work it. It is, but they usually remove the little wire that it clicks into. Hands-free filling is the norm in America but it's not really encouraged here. Pillock 1
Richard Posted April 30, 2016 Posted April 30, 2016 Here's one with the pin still in place. I think they get left in on HGV pumps. Inspector Morose 1
M'coli Posted April 30, 2016 Posted April 30, 2016 My (K11) Micra makes a clunking sound when the passenger side goes over bumps. I've had the car in the air and checked there's not a broken spring, and I've checked all the suspension rubbers with a pry bar in behind them. Also checked engine/gearbox mounts. Everything seems to be solid... Any advice on what else/how else to check? Something is definitely amiss... How can I check ball joints?Look for the 13mm socket you've not seen for the past 2 months that's nestling behind the headlight, rather than jacking it up in the air and spanner-testing everything every two weeks or so - that's what it was on my Cavalier. DeeJay 1
Cavcraft Posted April 30, 2016 Posted April 30, 2016 What are Mercedes A-Class cars like (1.7 diesel). If new MOT and cheap, I like the look of them, they're modern. Are they that bad? I'm not saying they're awful, but I am saying I'd rather throw a hand grenade into my fridge, trap my cock and bollocks in the door then close my eyes and count to ten. catsinthewelder, billyboy406v6, Station and 3 others 6
Inspector Morose Posted April 30, 2016 Posted April 30, 2016 Here's one with the pin still in place. I think they get left in on HGV pumps. Yup they are. Or take a modified thick paper clip with you on bulk buying sessions. Lacquer Peel 1
Matt Posted May 1, 2016 Posted May 1, 2016 This question has been popping up in my head a few times recently. What car with modifications in mind gives the best bang for buck speed wise? In other words you want to go fast for cheap--what do you buy? Bias towards acceleration for added sleeper-ness.
spike60 Posted May 1, 2016 Posted May 1, 2016 I been looking at diesel estates for the son who lives 60 miles away and a dealer has unwanted p/x Saab 9-5 1.9, 129k and good service history. It's farmyard fresh inside and out though straight but when I started it it surged up and down at idle, bringing the the EML on. No smoke. Dealer says if we want it after a deposit he will scan it while we're there,but not fix. Fair enough.Anyone clued up on Saabs enough to name a likely fix? Google just provided usual DPF/EGR/name everything answers. Cheers.
steveo3002 Posted May 1, 2016 Posted May 1, 2016 This question has been popping up in my head a few times recently. What car with modifications in mind gives the best bang for buck speed wise? In other words you want to go fast for cheap--what do you buy? Bias towards acceleration for added sleeper-ness.take some weight out the car ...spare wheel , tool kit, carpets and trim if you want to go mad
steveo3002 Posted May 1, 2016 Posted May 1, 2016 Paint question.............just rattle-canned front wing of Volvo [metallic Blackcurrant, ftw...] got a reasonable finish, 3 coats of rattle can lacquer......no runs, looks ok, but not as shiny as rest of panels. Any suggestions... G3/fine sanding/more lacquer?3 coats wont be alot to wet sand and polish , you could give it a gentle sand and then 3 more coats then 1500 -2000 grit and polish it up , in all honesty being aerosol i doubt it will ever look as glossy as the original and will suffer in the weather badly so keep it waxed often
sierraman Posted May 1, 2016 Posted May 1, 2016 Paint question.............just rattle-canned front wing of Volvo [metallic Blackcurrant, ftw...] got a reasonable finish, 3 coats of rattle can lacquer......no runs, looks ok, but not as shiny as rest of panels. Any suggestions... G3/fine sanding/more lacquer?Not enough paint. Needs 2-3 cans of paint on a wing.
dave21478 Posted May 1, 2016 Posted May 1, 2016 What's the little clip for on the trigger of every petrol pump I've ever used? I thought it was a way of locking it on so you could sit in the car until it clicks off, but if it is I can't work it. It is, but they usually remove the little wire that it clicks into. Hands-free filling is the norm in America but it's not really encouraged here. Yup they are. Or take a modified thick paper clip with you on bulk buying sessions. I used to keep a split pin on my keyring....one for a 3mm hole worked most pumps. There are a couple of holes in the pump triger guard, slide the pin through, pull the lever and flick the wee latch over and it will self fill and shut off when topped up.I gave up after a while as I got really bored explaining it to curious people, also some folks would get unfeasably angry at me as they thought I wasnt actually filling the car because I wasnt standing there holding it, hence delaying their important lives. I find queues at petrol stations bring out the absolute worst in motorists. I have seen way more road rage on forecourts than I have ever seen on the roads. Lacquer Peel, Inspector Morose, KruJoe and 1 other 4
spike60 Posted May 1, 2016 Posted May 1, 2016 This question has been popping up in my head a few times recently. What car with modifications in mind gives the best bang for buck speed wise? In other words you want to go fast for cheap--what do you buy? Bias towards acceleration for added sleeper-ness.Running a £400 naturally aspirated diesel Polo as a daily did it for me. The sporting toy felt like an uncontrollable beast after a week in that slug.... Cavcraft and Sigmund Fraud 2
omegod Posted May 1, 2016 Posted May 1, 2016 I'm selling a little citroen c1 for a mate as a favour, he has literally a couple of payments to finish it off and will settle this when it's sold( I completely trust him ). I've never sold summat with outstanding finance on it before so how does this normally work? The buyers may not HPI it so not an issue there , if they do whats the best way of dealing with it, written proof to them within 14 days of sale written on the receipt?
cort16 Posted May 1, 2016 Posted May 1, 2016 That's dodgy ground as the car technically isn't yours to sell until the finance is settled . If he did default on it the finance company technically has a claim to the car so the person you sell it to could lose it. Anyone who buys a car with outstanding finance needs their head examined and it could land you in hot water.Wait until it's paid off then sell it. Cavcraft, burraston2006, Craig the Princess and 5 others 8
Pillock Posted May 1, 2016 Posted May 1, 2016 I sold a car with outstanding finance by explaining the situation and getting the buyer to pay the finance off as part of my payment. But it could all end in tears so many won't do that.
steveo3002 Posted May 1, 2016 Posted May 1, 2016 let him sell it himself ...dodgy selling it when it belongs to the finance comp
Sigmund Fraud Posted May 1, 2016 Posted May 1, 2016 This question has been popping up in my head a few times recently. What car with modifications in mind gives the best bang for buck speed wise? In other words you want to go fast for cheap--what do you buy? Bias towards acceleration for added sleeper-ness. If all you want is straight-line performance, a scruffy Saab 9-3/9-5 tuned to circa 250HP shouldn't cost you more than £1K. pompei 1
Lacquer Peel Posted May 1, 2016 Posted May 1, 2016 I find queues at petrol stations bring out the absolute worst in motorists. I have seen way more road rage on forecourts than I have ever seen on the roads.My girlfriend works at a petrol station and twice yesterday I had passive aggressive fucks ruin my mood.I park by the vacuum cleaner when I'm dropping her off or picking her up (a few minutes at most).At the start of the shift a woman drove out of the automated car wash and just pointed at me. At the end of the shift a man pulled out of the car wash again, sat there and honked the horn at me. What happened to verbal communication?? mercrocker, dave21478, myglaren and 1 other 4
Bfg Posted May 1, 2016 Posted May 1, 2016 3 coats wont be alot to wet sand and polish , you could give it a gentle sand and then 3 more coats then 1500 -2000 grit and polish it up , in all honesty being aerosol i doubt it will ever look as glossy as the original and will suffer in the weather badly so keep it waxed often Agree in part. IMO three coats of base metallic colour is enough, but then I'd suggest you apply clear laquer.. If you rub down metallic paint then you'll change its look. The reflective particles being brought to the surface. However if you apply clear lacquer then you'll just be cuting that back and then polishing it. But again I'd have to say - to then leave the paint to harden for a few days, before its cut back and polished. G3 is good without needing rubbing down with super-fine wet n dry, as its rather abrasive. Personally I tend to use 1000 - 1200 grit with soapy (washing up liquid) water and then ordinary colour restorer. A build up of wax will give the shine and protect the paint. Good results can become great when a good wax is used. NB most paints hate silicon, so do all painting before you use silicon waxes. Hope that helps
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