gordonbennet Posted April 11, 2016 Posted April 11, 2016 My lad had an S60, cracking car, sat on 17", i was amazed just how well the car rode and just what astonishing grip the thing had considering it went like hell, doubt the 16" would have much less grip but they would look a bugger untrimmed compared to a bit of TLC and a fresh coat of laquer on your existing alloys.225/45 x 17's are stupidly cheap if you poke nose about a bit, just over £50 buys you decent non Chinese rubber.
warninglight Posted April 12, 2016 Posted April 12, 2016 rantingyoof - You can get the ph2 V70 and S80 with the old VAG engine, only on early ones mind! That would be my choice, I've had a fair few ph1 x70s including a TDi and I found a minty fresh early ph2 TDi for my ex early last year. One owner from new, decent spec and spotless, 2 new rear shocks and It drove like new too, all for £1100. Of course, just like with her Rover 75 CDT which came before it, she couldn't manage more than 35mpg out of it which was a car fault obviously (despite me coaxing 50 out of the Volvo and 55 out of the 75 every time I drove them) so she's now running around in a pov spec Legacy saloon, petrol auto. Which I'm sure is being incredibly efficient. Sorry, that's a bit of a rant, but the ph2 package with the earlier engine is out there, just not so common now and certainly rare in good condition. For looking like a new car at 15 years old, it was looking distinctly more its age by 15.5 years old when she got rid of it... As for the wheel sizes, you'll see a small difference in comfort dropping to 16"s but not a great deal. As has been said, the tyre price difference is minimal these days, and proper Volvo 17"s don't really crack or buckle easily. The only ones I know of that crack are the 18"s as fitted to ph2 S60/V70Rs, my brother has cracked 2 or 3 on that. My commute takes me over the mountains, and the only damage I've ever done was in a massive hidden pothole (looked like a puddle) where I broke the sidewall of a tyre on the C70. No damage to the 17" wheel though!
Bucketeer Posted April 13, 2016 Posted April 13, 2016 I saw this yesterday. It looked like some sort of pickup arrangement (the white sticker said '200kg load limit'). Is this something factory spec or is it likely to be a home-made affair? I know I could probably find out through through some actual research but it's easier to tap into the hive mind. And I'll get a better answer. catsinthewelder, KruJoe, CGSB and 2 others 5
Lacquer Peel Posted April 13, 2016 Posted April 13, 2016 It's a Suzuki Mighty Boy, the tonneau cover and sides are aftermarket I think. anonymous user, inconsistant, CGSB and 2 others 5
Bucketeer Posted April 13, 2016 Posted April 13, 2016 YESSS! I was hoping it would have some great eccentric Japanese name. ETA - From Wikipedia: The only regular export markets for the Suzuki Mighty Boy were Australia and Cyprus between 1985 and 1988.Makes sense then. It does seem well suited to the narrow little Nicosia back streets I found it on. Lacquer Peel 1
Supernaut Posted April 13, 2016 Posted April 13, 2016 The Ozzies like to do this to Mighty Boys... Bucketeer and Lacquer Peel 2
xtriple Posted April 13, 2016 Posted April 13, 2016 It is surprisingly sunny here today. I have dug the shorts out. Will I regret this action?
Bucketeer Posted April 13, 2016 Posted April 13, 2016 The Ozzies like to do this to Mighty Boys... Poor little thing. That's like grafting horses legs on to a cute kitten or something. Lacquer Peel 1
xtriple Posted April 13, 2016 Posted April 13, 2016 I are chicken! I put my jeans and a jumper back on and I sweated my tits off! So I should have had the commitment to my shorts. Story of my life, bad decisions....
320touring Posted April 13, 2016 Posted April 13, 2016 I've found loose wheeelbolts on the alfa front passenger wheel yesterday and today. this is despite me tightening them up yesterday. Its also the side i suspect of having a fucked wheel bearing- could that cause loose bolts?
Bfg Posted April 13, 2016 Posted April 13, 2016 /\ /\ Don't know Alfa's but.. generally not caused by the wheel bearing. The car is designed and tested over noise & vibrations surfaces which rattle the whole car very much more than your teeth like to bare. Even the most shot of wheel bearing is nowhere near as severe. The most common cause would be the wheel not sitting where it should when fitted - and so it settles into a slightly different position with road use. As a consequence the wheel nuts are then loose. Many wheels need to be joggled (thumped back and forth) progressively as you fit the nuts and during their first tightening. I use copaslip between the hub and the wheel flat, under the flats (washers) of the nuts and on the threads.., and with joggling the wheels to settle them to where they should be - they don't work loose. My old Jag with wire wheels was suspected of having a wheel bearing gone when I bought her. I removed the wheel and copaslipped its splines and the mating faces and refitted it. Hey presto - no play and no more 'bearing-gone' type noise or vibration ! It turned out that each wheel's splines and matings surfaces were dry.., and two of the four wheels were seating badly. Hope that helps some, Pete link to copaslip CGSB 1
320touring Posted April 13, 2016 Posted April 13, 2016 Thanks- the discs have a locating stud, and wheel is on it. also facings have been cleaned and copperslipped. I have nae idea! may be a take to the station and get the train til the weekend
skattrd Posted April 13, 2016 Posted April 13, 2016 Are the wheel bolts long enough Neil?My Alfa needs ridiculously long wheel bolts, and lets say not all of them were the correct length when I got the car, same for the Delta that had a wheel almost fall off on the drive home last year. Passengers side wheel is the one that undoes itself on mine too.
320touring Posted April 13, 2016 Posted April 13, 2016 Are the threads fucked?Not as far as I'm aware -all tighten up ok, no tightness Are the wheel bolts long enough Neil?My Alfa needs ridiculously long wheel bolts, and lets say not all of them were the correct length when I got the car, same for the Delta that had a wheel almost fall off on the drive home last year. Passengers side wheel is the one that undoes itself on mine too.They are the same as ones on all other wheels- and none of them are having an issue.. good thoughts both:)
skattrd Posted April 13, 2016 Posted April 13, 2016 Just because they're the same length as the other wheels doesn't mean they're the right ones.Take the wheel off and push a bolt through and see how much thread is showing. Then see where that much thread grips in to the hub as the threads don't start immediately in the hub. You might find less is holding the wheel on than you thought. Then visit ebay and buy some longer bolts, scrappies never have any. I've had the front passenger side wheel loosen bolts on my Alfa 155 and Nuovo Delta .... Never any other wheels.
robinmasters Posted April 13, 2016 Posted April 13, 2016 Is that Chris Goffey doing the voice-over on the advert for a magazine about formula one cars?
scaryoldcortina Posted April 13, 2016 Posted April 13, 2016 It's always passenger side that undoes because that's the side that is rotating counterclockwise. Righty tighty, lefty loosey, so anytime the torque on the nut is lower than the rotational energy of said nut it will undo itself. Usual culprits are poorly seated wheels (centre bore) or incorrect/too short bolts. *except xTriple's bently. Bucketeer, LC Torana and CGSB 3
320touring Posted April 13, 2016 Posted April 13, 2016 Just because they're the same length as the other wheels doesn't mean they're the right ones.Take the wheel off and push a bolt through and see how much thread is showing. Then see where that much thread grips in to the hub as the threads don't start immediately in the hub. You might find less is holding the wheel on than you thought. Then visit ebay and buy some longer bolts, scrappies never have any. I've had the front passenger side wheel loosen bolts on my Alfa 155 and Nuovo Delta .... Never any other wheels.Looks like it is only the torque settings that change depending on bolts. my dull ones have a lower torque than 'chrome' finish ones
egg Posted April 13, 2016 Posted April 13, 2016 Anyone know if you can get an auxiliary belt 'kit' (belt, tensioner and pulley) for a Mk1 mondeo? thanks. Sold individually by different manufacturers on ebay (£61 just for tensioner! ) I know about the cambelt kit (FINIS 1112530)
Lacquer Peel Posted April 13, 2016 Posted April 13, 2016 I'm not sure, but the auxiliary belt tensioners are always mega bucks on modern cars with serpentine belts egg 1
Kiltox Posted April 13, 2016 Posted April 13, 2016 MX5 airbag light flashes after replacement of the steering rack - I take it I've upset the clock spring pounding on the rack to column connection to remove the rack? (steering lock was engaged)
rrsix Posted April 13, 2016 Posted April 13, 2016 Are Bergen tools any good? looking to buy some 1/2 drive allen key things. Spotted a nice but pricey Teng set but comes in a tool box module which will mean I'm forever tipping them over the floor.
Kiltox Posted April 13, 2016 Posted April 13, 2016 Pretty crap but cheap - I have a set of Allen socket things like you describe and they're good enough rrsix 1
twosmoke300 Posted April 14, 2016 Posted April 14, 2016 What you have prob done is lock the steering but connected it with the rack over to one side a bit and when you straighten it its overwound the clock Spring
Kiltox Posted April 14, 2016 Posted April 14, 2016 What you have prob done is lock the steering but connected it with the rack over to one side a bit and when you straighten it its overwound the clock Spring Arse... new clock spring time?
Kiltox Posted April 14, 2016 Posted April 14, 2016 How long ago did you buy it? Are you a new keeper with a green slip?
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