Ask a Shiter

[saucedoctor]

^

 

[scaryoldcortina]

When I scrapped my A4 2 years ago I took the battery off it and it's been sat in my garage until today. I tested the voltage and it showed 10.8v which I thought was OK for 2 years of no use. After a couple of hours connected to my charger it shows 19.3v while connected and 18.7v when I disconnect the charger but does seem to keep dropping further. This seems a bit high to me! Can anyone advise why it's showing this when I would have assumed more like 14.5v? Is it kippered?

Either you discovered cold fusion and have solved the energy crisis, or it's buggered. Try giving it a load (like a headlamp) and measuring the voltage, I'd guess it drops like a stone.

[HH-R]

When my Metro was laid up for about 6 months, the battery was absolutely knackered. Lead acid batteries don't like it at all.

[stripped fred]

Either you discovered cold fusion and have solved the energy crisis, or it's buggered. Try giving it a load (like a headlamp) and measuring the voltage, I'd guess it drops like a stone.

I'll try that tomorrow. Can't work out why it would have more volts though!

[myglaren]

When my Metro was laid up for about 6 months, the battery was absolutely knackered. Lead acid batteries don't like it at all.

Same here - put a brand new one in the meter cupboard and forgot about it.

Big paperweight after six months

[JayW]

When I scrapped my A4 2 years ago I took the battery off it and it's been sat in my garage until today. I tested the voltage and it showed 10.8v which I thought was OK for 2 years of no use. After a couple of hours connected to my charger it shows 19.3v while connected and 18.7v when I disconnect the charger but does seem to keep dropping further. This seems a bit high to me! Can anyone advise why it's showing this when I would have assumed more like 14.5v? Is it kippered?

Firstly, your charger is fine, the 14.4v you're expecting is what you'd get from an alternator.

 

When you take the battery off charge, it will gradually fall and settle. 12.7v represents a perfectly charged battery. If it settles around 12.2v it's on its way to shagsville. Anything less is fubar.

 

Your best bet is an overnight charge on a regulated charger or conditioner, leave it a couple of hours, then test.

[cobblers]

I'm guessing your charger is a big heavy box that hums?

If so it's just a transformer with poor regulation. In theory they're horrible really but they work well if you just put them on a good battery for a couple of hours. The output voltage is "on average" 15v or so, but it peaks to 20+. Not a problem really because a good battery will soak that up no worries.

 

If you've seen 19 volts then it's absolutely bad news, it means your battery has gone well beyond the phase where it's accepting a charge, and to the state where the plates are bubbling away and it's acting like a capacitor (which is why the voltage was dropping quickly)

 

Looking at the thickness of the wires I'd say it's at best a ten amp charger. Ten amps over two hours is 20Ah (and the battery was definitely dead flat to start with if it was sat at 10.8v)

 

If you've managed to take a flat battery to 19.3v with 20AH of charge then it was bollocksed to start with. It might have been weak to start with but any time spent over 16v would have been merrily boiling all the electrolyte away.

 

Don't waste money or time trying to condition it - Best case scenario, in an ideal world is you can salvage it and get a 12AH battery. Or you could buy the very smallest car battery off ebay for £20 which would have double that and a guarantee.

[RayMK]

When my Metro was laid up for about 6 months, the battery was absolutely knackered. Lead acid batteries don't like it at all.

 

On the other hand, I bought two Varta batteries (car type) for my old mobility scooter about 8 years ago. When the scooter developed terminal transmission problems about 18 months later I took it to the recycling yard but kept the batteries.  One went in my Reliant (500 miles per year and no trickle charging or whatever - it just starts when required) and the other went on a shelf (again, no charging).  About 2 years later, the new batteries (gel type) in my replacement 2nd hand scooter failed - they only lasted a year after I replaced the ones that were in it when bought - so I bought a new battery for the Reliant and paired up the two old Vartas in the scooter.  They are still in it now and were tested two weeks  ago because I thought they might be getting near giving up.  No.  On a full  load (meter, cranking amps) test, they were both fine.  I think it depends on the quality of the battery.  Better ones will withstand more neglect.

[stripped fred]

I've just took the battery off charge. It was on the lowest setting, 2.5 A DC. I'll check it tomorrow and see what the voltage is.

 

I didn't realise you shouldn't let lead acid batteries go flat. I usually leave the battery on my mr2 over winter so up to 6 months. I've done this for many years and it's only on it's 2nd battery. Maybe I've just been lucky. Think I'll invest in one of those plug in trickle chargers.

[twosmoke300]

Check your meter - some digi meters voltage readings climb when the batteries get low

[stripped fred]

After 10 hours of trickle charging and left overnight it now shows 11.97v. So I think it's scrap. Another stupid question, will the scrap man give me anything for it or should I just take it to the tip?

[skattrd]

After 10 hours of trickle charging and left overnight it now shows 11.97v. So I think it's scrap. Another stupid question, will the scrap man give me anything for it or should I just take it to the tip?

 

It's done on weight and scrap prices, so don't expect a lot .. I think I got £4-5 each for the last ones I weighed in.

[gordonbennet]

Funny you should mention Varta batteries RayMK, dunno if they are the same now but they used to be the dogs bollocks.

 

There was a mighty great sod sitting in the 940 Diesel Volvo when we got it, it wasn't new then, it did its job for years on end with us, when the glow plugs gradually failed it could turn the engine over for minutes at a time without slowing till the old girl fired up, my sister bought the car off us (should never have let it go), used to jump start her Volvo artic when the poxy thing went flat which was every bank hol unless she turned off the master switch, so that thing lasted all sorts of abuse over 10 years that we know about and it was new then, do they make 'em like that any more i wonder.

People say Bosch are the same battery, but my experience of them over the last 10 years has been disappointing.

 

I buy Yuasa when possible now.

[myglaren]

My original battery was a Varta, replacement a Yuasa.

Turned out the Varta was fine (11 years old) and was put back, Yuasa stuck in meter cupboard (charged) and forgotten for six months - dead as a doornail

The Varta went with the car.

 

Although the no-name and under spec battery in the current C5 was actually OK and it was the starter that was seized, I had a new Bosch put in.  Had asked for a Varta but couldn't get one at the time but they told me that the Varta and Bosch production line was one and the same.

Time will tell.

[Bfg]

SKINNY  TYRES

 

Last night I was looking at the prices of tyres for my Shitroen Ami 1-ltr.  Mine are way past their best used by date. 135-R15's are not a commonly used size to be competitively priced.  Michelin tyres are best part of £100 a piece.   I see Nankang, Toyo, Camac, Firestone, Maxxis, Pirelli and a couple of others make this size..   but I also see that the 'convenience tyre' for the Honda Accord (2006) use this size..  I suspect that these would be no good for daily use..  but perhaps someone here has a suggestion for five tyres of 135-R15 or 145-R15 ? 

cheers, Bfg

[TataBobu]

Those Nankangs look good to me: http://www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?dsco=110&cart_id=15175227.110.767&sowigan=So&Breite=135&Quer=&Felge=15&Speed=S&kategorie=6&ranzahl=4&S_Z=R&tyre_for=&x_tyre_for=&m_s=3&rsmFahrzeugart=PKW&Label=F-B-72-3&details=Ordern&typ=D-105380

[Bfg]

Those Nankangs look good to me: http://www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?dsco=110&cart_id=15175227.110.767&sowigan=So&Breite=135&Quer=&Felge=15&Speed=S&kategorie=6&ranzahl=4&S_Z=R&tyre_for=&x_tyre_for=&m_s=3&rsmFahrzeugart=PKW&Label=F-B-72-3&details=Ordern&typ=D-105380

 

Great price - Thanks..   I'll be looking for all season tyres, so the Maxxis AP2 seem good bet

http://www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?dsco=110&cart_id=15175227.110.767&Breite=135&Quer=80&Felge=15&Speed=&Load=&kategorie=6&Marke=&ranzahl=4&tyre_for=&x_tyre_for=&rsmFahrzeugart=ALL&filter_preis_bis=&filter_preis_von=&homologation=&search_tool=standard&Label=F-B-69-2&details=Ordern&typ=R-282084

 

...but first Taiwanese and now Chinese ??

[mat_the_cat]

Funny you should mention Varta batteries RayMK, dunno if they are the same now but they used to be the dogs bollocks.

 

8 years for the Varta in the van, possibly only finished off by the fact the regulator failed and it was charging at 15+ volts. Discovery battery is 5 years old, BX 4 years (both Varta too) and all still lasting well. Time will tell...

[mjrose]

What does it mean when the mot check website can't find your vehicle?

 

A friend has just bought a 58 plate crafter with 52k miles on and I reckon it's clocked. Worn pedal rubbers and wheel, generally tired looking. I'm disappointed there is no evidence on the mot checker website.

[Richard]

It's probably had a change of plate. The old MOT checker used to take account of this, but the new one doesn't.

 

http://www.ukvehicle.com/ will tell you what the previous number was for free, and presumably all previous plates if you pay. I think https://totalcarcheck.co.uk/ will give you the plate history if you pay too, and they are cheap.

[Dick Cheeseburger]

Why do modern Ford Fiestas have Aston Martin front ends?

 

Unadulterated:

 

My nan:

 

Bastard:

 

New Fiesta:

[LC Torana]

Not just the Fiesta.

 

Here's our current model (and last-ever) Falcon:

 

[The Moog]

How can I get a rusted screw out from inside the armrest of the swift?

 

There are two screws at bottom of a plastic well that I need to remove to get able take the door off. One of them is rusted and rounded.

[320touring]

Pull!

 

then you can wind it out with some pliers once door card is off. if refitting use a washer:)

[The Moog]

Pull!

 

then you can wind it out with some pliers once door card is off. if refitting use a washer:)

Cheers

[mjrose]

It's probably had a change of plate. The old MOT checker used to take account of this, but the new one doesn't.

 

http://www.ukvehicle.com/ will tell you what the previous number was for free, and presumably all previous plates if you pay. I think https://totalcarcheck.co.uk/ will give you the plate history if you pay too, and they are cheap.

Thanks very muchly!

[NorfolkNWeigh]

Today, on the M25, I saw an army recovery vehicle, the sort they use for towing tank transporters with.

Somehow it had a Wolf 110 attached to the back of it, it was sitting at at least 45 degrees, with the front end about 6' up in the air.

My stupid question is ,why was the O/S/F wheel spinning at high speed? Assuming it hadn't been left ( or was stuck) in gear, even then I'd have thought the centre diff would prevent this, or would the diff lock have to be engaged?

Probably just me being retarded.

[Guest Hooli]

Today, on the M25, I saw an army recovery vehicle, the sort they use for towing tank transporters with.

Somehow it had a Wolf 110 attached to the back of it, it was sitting at at least 45 degrees, with the front end about 6' up in the air.

My stupid question is ,why was the O/S/F wheel spinning at high speed? Assuming it hadn't been left ( or was stuck) in gear, even then I'd have thought the centre diff would prevent this, or would the diff lock have to be engaged?

Probably just me being retarded.

 That is why you shouldn't tow a perm 4x4 with two wheels in the air.

 

You know when you turn one wheel on a car, the other side turns the other way? you get the same thing at the centre diff & then the front diff spins it all off to one side due to uneven drag & you get the effect you saw. Normally it's then followed by the planetary gears over heating & either the front or centre diff going pop.

[angle]

Right then. My XUD Xantia is starting to sometimes overheat at speed - fine at idle or low revs, but 2500rpm+, up a hill or going fast, and it gets 10-15 degrees hotter than it should. Coolant isn't pressurising, fans are coming on, heater works. When it does it, the radiator is cold, other times its normal temperature. So far simple enough - blocked rad or thermostat stuck closed, right? Thing is, both radiator and thermostat are brand new, fitted at the beginning of the month. So - anything else? Or am I looking at taking stuff apart that's just been fitted? (Yay)

[skattrd]

Airlock?