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Posted

Apparently there is an industrial paint stripper that works the way Nitromors used to, somebody posted an eBay link the last time the question was asked.

  • Like 1
Posted

It used to have Dichloromethane in it, now it doesn't cos you're not allowed to use it in DIY stuff.

 

You need to find something "for professional use only"

 

Try this:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Industrial-Strength-Paint-Stripper-5L-Better-than-Nitromors-/201302482943?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2ede901fff

 

A quick test to see if stuff has dichloromethane in it is to test it on your elbow like you would babies bath water. If you don't screamthe house down then you have the new safe stuff.

Posted

I'm looking to remove some paint from a set of alloys that have been painted badly with a brush more than once. What can I use to remove the paint? I've found nitromors is rubbish. Would soaking them in petrol and adding a match be a silly idea to remove the paint?

 

Flap wheel.

Posted

I've got a mate who's a painter and he had a guy in asking him to re-paint his badly painted wheels. He got a thinners on a rag and with a bit of elbow grease just wiped off the shite paint. It might be worth a go to see if you can lift the crappy paint.

Posted

If the paper counterpart of the plastic licence is now 'no longer legal' then what about if you never had the plastic bit anyway?

In an effort to avoid being bummed in fees every X amount of years (by having to have a replacement) I've just buried my head in the sand and carried on with my paper only licence.

Currently NOT ARSED about hiring a car and I reckon ANPR means I don't actually 'need' to have a plastic licence.

 

Shall I just carry on like this or will I get a fine when I get pulled for driving a Vectra running on cherry?

Posted

If the paper counterpart of the plastic licence is now 'no longer legal' then what about if you never had the plastic bit anyway?

In an effort to avoid being bummed in fees every X amount of years (by having to have a replacement) I've just buried my head in the sand and carried on with my paper only licence.

Currently NOT ARSED about hiring a car and I reckon ANPR means I don't actually 'need' to have a plastic licence.

 

Shall I just carry on like this or will I get a fine when I get pulled for driving a Vectra running on cherry?

As I understand this, if you're still in possession of an old style paper licence and have not moved house or had endorsements removed from it then you're able to carry on regardless & there's nothing DOOVLA, VOSA, "the boys in blue" or anyone else can do about it. Unfortunately  there a very few people who don't either move house, obtain endorsements or lose their licences; once that happens..... you're obliged to obtain a new photo card licence!

Posted

Your licence is valid, whether it's a paper one or plastic card. It's just a paper counterpart that's no longer valid.

 

If you have an actual paper licence, carry on.

Posted

I'd wager driving a vectra C is enough pennance for much greater crimes than having a paper licence (which is not sick kestrel at all)

Posted

Get the fuck in there, cheers gents.

I don't intend to move house and haven't got a vehicle capable of speeding so I should be ok.

Posted

Get the fuck in there, cheers gents.

I don't intend to move house and haven't got a vehicle capable of speeding so I should be ok.

I'm sure that if the vectra C conks out half way up a hill, gravity could get it to 35mph;)

Posted

The fair Lady barefoot still has her paper licence & I'd still have mine if I hadn't misplaced it

& found it the day after my replacement plastic one arrived.

Posted

(Even) I know that you can drive to a pre-booked MOT if your MOT and tax have run out... but can you drive the car home again after failing?

 

Government says, ambiguously:

 

 

 

Driving a vehicle that’s failed

You can still drive your vehicle if it fails the MOT and its existing MOT certificate is still valid (ie you got it tested before the MOT ran out).

If the vehicle fails the test and the MOT has run out, you can only drive it to:

  • have the failed defects fixed
  • a pre-arranged MOT test appointment

You can be fined up to £2,500, be banned from driving and get 3 penalty points for driving a vehicle in a dangerous condition.

 

So assuming it's not 'in a dangerous condition', e.g. has no brakes whatsoever, am I allowed to drive it home to fix the failed defects myself?

  • Like 1
Posted

So assuming it's not 'in a dangerous condition', e.g. has no brakes whatsoever, am I allowed to drive it home to fix the failed defects myself?

 

 

If the vehicle fails the test and the MOT has run out, you can only drive it to:

  • have the failed defects fixed

 

It says nowhere that you can't have the failed defects fixed by yourself at your home.

  • Like 4
Posted

True, it doesn't say you can't, but I can't help fearing that you'd have to stand up and try to argue that one with the magistrates, in the face of an ANPR-driven fixed penalty.

 

 

As an aside, a while ago I met some of the boffins that invented ANPR.  Didn't know whether to congratulate them or smack them really hard; I think I settled for a rather weak smile and then went outside to kick something.

Posted

I have seen the ANPR system used by the PSNI, and recently too. I can tell you that it manages 40% correct "readings" AT BEST. Police Head Shed seem to think it is infallible, but the officers who actually use it think it's a joke. The Audi RS4 Avant that it was fitted to was pretty serious, mind.

  • Like 2
Posted

The one these guys developed is a fixed base system, which has a much, much lower error rate than that.  The 'moving base' ones are a lot less reliable - more complex maths, stuff gets in the way etc - but that misread rate you were told on the PSNI system is piss poor even for a mobile system.

 

Not that I'm defending the creeping menace of ANPR, mind you.

  • Like 1
Posted

Timing chains.

 

Do you have to replace them at a mileage like belts, or just when they get noisy?

I can find very little info on the interval for the Saaab 2.0T with the black coil pack thingie, it seems to have chain not belt but that's it.

 

Also, interference or "fuck it, let it break" engine?

Interference engine.... timing chain should last the life of the engine unless abused and stretched by seriously high torque turbo nutter modifications..... Worth checking the top tensioner for wear and how far it has ratcheted out but that's about it.... drive smug in the knowledge your car maker cared enough to not fit a stupid rubber band.... :)

  • Like 2
Posted

Unless it's a 3cyl vauxhall or vw petrol . Then is much rather have a belt thank you

  • Like 1
Posted

Thank you Doobie. I'll check the tensioner but it's not noisy or owt so that's another thing to move to the list of things to safely ignore, like the awful brakes - they've got another 11.5 months until MOT.

Posted

I have seen the ANPR system used by the PSNI, and recently too. I can tell you that it manages 40% correct "readings" AT BEST. Police Head Shed seem to think it is infallible, but the officers who actually use it think it's a joke. The Audi RS4 Avant that it was fitted to was pretty serious, mind.

 

I was doing 200 miles a week around Bradford and Leeds in the Jag for 3 weeks recently, with the wrong plates which were not showing as insured on ASKMID and didn't even get a sniff of being pulled over.

Posted

Wot is a good aftermarket accesory to make a 12V accessory port for cars that don't have a fag lighter? Could do with one for my motorbike and MYSTERY NEW CAR

 

I assume you can charge phones off them like a normal car, i.e. when switched off at 12.5V and running and 14V?

Posted

As most of the phone chargers now are USB sockets that fit into one of these

 

$_57.JPG

 

I'm just going to solder a 12v permanent live to one (via a fuse and a switch) and hide it in the cubby hole in the Disco to charge my phone up when I'm camping.  You can get them for 99p posted if you don't mind waiting a couple of weeks.

Posted

MGF won't start :(

 

As it's been standing a few days, checked battery first - which is fine. There's a rapid clicking noise when I try to start the car - amirite in thinking that's likely to e starter motor or solenoid?

 

I wish I was better at this :( - just spent a fortune on the Hurricane, I really don't want to be having to do the same again right now with t'other one.

Posted

Rapid clicking sounds typical of a weak battery and/or a high resistance connection: ie enough oomph to pull the solenoid in but not enough to hold it in when the starter is connected.

 

How did you check the battery?

Posted

What's the minimum voltage for a cordless drill/screwdriver so it's not totally useless and can say screw in big decking screws with ease? The one I have just now is soft as shite.

Posted

 

How did you check the battery?

 

Put it on charge, because I've forgotten how to use a multi-meter :oops:  The 'green light' to say it was fully charged came on within about 10-15 minutes, so obviously hasn't run down too badly while the car's been parked up.

Posted

I had that with my pug battery. Showing good volts etc but couldnt start car. Ended up replacing battery 

Posted

Try putting a jump lead from the engine block to the negative terminal. If it starts it's time to replace your earth lead.

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