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Posted

are 3 wheelers allowed on the motorway?

 

 

 

As long as the engine size is over 50cc...

Posted

I assumed it was just your brain seeing a pattern where there isn't really one. I do have some of these sensors though, I used to use them to trigger my flashguns when doing underground photography.

Posted

I had a stupid question to ask, but after 3/4 of a bottle of red, I can't think what it was!

Posted

I assumed it was just your brain seeing a pattern where there isn't really one. I do have some of these sensors though, I used to use them to trigger my flashguns when doing underground photography.

of what? sounds interesting

Posted (edited)

are 3 wheelers allowed on the motorway?

On the subject of motorway prohibited vehicles (from which 3 wheelers are NOT prohibited) when I took my driving test I remember that electric vehicles were expressly prohibited from using motorways. I presume that's recently been changed with the introduction of the new breed of electric cars. 

 

While driving home on the M25 yesterday I passed a Nissan Leaf doing 40 mph in the slow lane, at junction 19. I suppose its batteries were dying.... 40 mph was a bit too slow, even for the M25! 

Edited by Andrew353w
Posted

Have just changed the steel wheels on the Prelude for the set of refurbished period alloys that I bought with the car (from Mikeknight of this parish). Thinking being smart alloys in summer/steels for winter kind of thing...

All on and look great (to me).

Now the wheel nuts only engage on roughly half the thread that they do with the steels. Seven full turns instead of 12/14. All torque up fine. Wheel and tyre size is the same but the alloys are thicker or have a different offset or something. Drives well and have re checked the wheel nuts after 100 miles and still tight.

Stupid question is. Are they likely to fall off/strip threads or anything else horrible?

Posted

No.check them again after another 100 miles or so and as long as they're still torqued up then don't worry

I'm assuming that the same wheel nuts can be used on both steel and alloy wheels?

  • Like 1
Posted

No.check them again after another 100 miles or so and as long as they're still torqued up then don't worry

I'm assuming that the same wheel nuts can be used on both steel and alloy wheels?

Thanks!

The alloys came with some open ended nuts plus locking nuts which I have fitted. The steel wheels used chromed closed ended nuts.

Posted

Wheel nuts: as well as the length of thread engagement you need to check that the seat on the steel wheel (that the nuts are for)

is the same (diameter, angle etc)  as the seat on the alloy wheel: they could be quite different in which case you will need different nuts. 

Posted

Generally as per the reply of Andy18s, but the nuts for steel wheels are usually different from those intended for alloys, particularly if the seat surface is conical (different angles). 

 

I assume the nuts which came with the alloys are steel and have fully engaged threads.  If not, there is a possibility of successive threads stripping.  I think the rule of thumb guideline for engagement is 1.5 x the base diameter of the screw, nut or bolt.

  • Like 1
Posted

Generally as per the reply of Andy18s, but the nuts for steel wheels are usually different from those intended for alloys, particularly if the seat surface is conical (different angles). 

 

I assume the nuts which came with the alloys are steel and have fully engaged threads.  If not, there is a possibility of successive threads stripping.  I think the rule of thumb guideline for engagement is 1.5 x the base diameter of the screw, nut or bolt.

The nuts which came with the alloys are indeed steel. Although 1.5 x the stud diameter engagement looks a bit marginal. I think the studs are 12mm x 1.5mm pitch. So seven turns is only 10.5mm.

Posted

The rule of thumb is for the thread engagement distance, so it would be >18mm ideally, or 15mm(approx.) if you used the thread root diameter.  10.5mm does seem a bit marginal in theory.  Keep checking them!

  • Like 1
Posted

of what? sounds interesting

 

Mostly abandoned mines and railway tunnels. That explains why I had a miner's lamp and hat in my car at Llangollen but not why I was wearing it and singing YMCA- that was down to the Old Speckled Hen I think.

 

This sort of thing

 

4082729441_b524dec901_b.jpgDSC_7174 by RichardB5, on Flickr

 

7576312408_aa215ec20f_b.jpgDSC_0781_01 by RichardB5, on Flickr

 

8628462829_6f58f634ab_b.jpgDSC_2676 by RichardB5, on Flickr

 

14127361068_77bc7f2769_b.jpgDSC_4177 by RichardB5, on Flickr

 

8732400868_dc9c94abcc_b.jpgDSC_2858 by RichardB5, on Flickr

 

5026611007_c48b84d451_b.jpgDSC_2718 by RichardB5, on Flickr

Posted

Do new posh Mazdas have directional headlamps? Went out with a mate in his yesterday and I got the impression that the lights were moving with the steering wheel. He is usually very clued up on cars so his negative reply when I asked the question made we wonder if he is losing the plot.

Posted

Have just changed the steel wheels on the Prelude for the set of refurbished period alloys that I bought with the car (from Mikeknight of this parish). Thinking being smart alloys in summer/steels for winter kind of thing...

All on and look great (to me).

Now the wheel nuts only engage on roughly half the thread that they do with the steels. Seven full turns instead of 12/14. All torque up fine. Wheel and tyre size is the same but the alloys are thicker or have a different offset or something. Drives well and have re checked the wheel nuts after 100 miles and still tight.

Stupid question is. Are they likely to fall off/strip threads or anything else horrible?

 

 

The usual engineering aim for the average bolt is to design the distance in, to be about at least 1.5 times the diameter.  Are they wheel nuts or Wheel Bolts (studs) ? If they are nuts, then I'd reject them if the stud does not protrude from the bolt.

 

IIRC when fitting alloys to an AX, I had to buy longer studs, due to only 3 turns instead of 10.

Posted

What would cause my door lock motors to activate repeatedly after unlocking the car? They only try and open the door after I get in, they do it about ten times in quick succession.

Posted

What would cause my door lock motors to activate repeatedly after unlocking the car? They only try and open the door after I get in, they do it about ten times in quick succession.

 

 

If the door lock switches on the negative and a wire is grounding to bodywork then it will trigger the locks repeatedly.

 

This thread has a good door lock firing discussion http://my.is/forums/f115/door-lock-problem-239258/

Posted

I cancelled the sale of the jag on ebay but they want to charge me fees.

 

Can I report the high bidder as non payer to avoid being chearged for nothing?

Posted

What would cause my door lock motors to activate repeatedly after unlocking the car? They only try and open the door after I get in, they do it about ten times in quick succession.

 

Is it a French car? If so, the answer is very easy.

  • Like 2
Posted

May be Scaletrix related?

I never found the exact purpose of it, but I did find the last one advertised on eBay that went for £160!

Posted

If the door lock switches on the negative and a wire is grounding to bodywork then it will trigger the locks repeatedly.

 

This thread has a good door lock firing discussion http://my.is/forums/f115/door-lock-problem-239258/

 

Well it does seem to happen just after I close the door, I'll whip the door card off and have a look.

 

Is it a French car? If so, the answer is very easy.

 

Nope, Japanese!

Posted

Is it not just a novelty promotional freebie?

Quite possibly, but by the time you add SNAP-ON TAX it seems quite rare, and this hopefully valuable.

Posted

I have two, 'I love my Jalopy' stickers.

Is it wrong to stick one on to the T2?

Posted

Timing chains.

 

Do you have to replace them at a mileage like belts, or just when they get noisy?

I can find very little info on the interval for the Saaab 2.0T with the black coil pack thingie, it seems to have chain not belt but that's it.

 

Also, interference or "fuck it, let it break" engine?

Posted

Another Swedish* valve train question.

 

We've just been to look at a tidy 53 plate S40 1.8 petrol. The price is fair and it all looks good, except it's making a funny noise. It's a sort of chattering followed by a plop and silence for a moment until it starts again. When you rev the engine it becomes a constant chattering. I'm suspecting a dodgy hydraulic tappet, does that sound right and if it is that how hard is it to fix?

Posted

Another Swedish* valve train question.

 

We've just been to look at a tidy 53 plate S40 1.8 petrol. The price is fair and it all looks good, except it's making a funny noise. It's a sort of chattering followed by a plop and silence for a moment until it starts again. When you rev the engine it becomes a constant chattering. I'm suspecting a dodgy hydraulic tappet, does that sound right and if it is that how hard is it to fix?

You can get a non noisy s40 for £3.20 so no time or money is worth spending on it tbh.

 

If it is a stuck tappet the solution could range from 'bung a bottle into the tank to ungunk it' to 'that'll be a new camshaft and set of tappets please sir'

Posted

I'm looking to remove some paint from a set of alloys that have been painted badly with a brush more than once. What can I use to remove the paint? I've found nitromors is rubbish. Would soaking them in petrol and adding a match be a silly idea to remove the paint?

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