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Posted

We had one of those Convoy buses at work with the same lump and though I can't remember the symptoms now do remember we had to replace the ecu which apparently a common fault as they get damp where they sit on the bulkhead. The dealer solution was to fit a new one still in the placy bag to protect it  :mrgreen:

 

After all the rain we've had lately this could be it, but I'm suprised that it would present itself towards the end of a long dry run when the engine bay was nice and warm.  They were in Wales at the time though so anythings possible.

Posted

Workvan making some weird clonky boingy type noises at the front end, sounds almost like a spring being twanged.

 

I'm not bothered about how to fix it etc, I'm more concerned that it'll try to kill me before I get it to the workshop. (Greasemonkey currently on sick leave after an operation to remove a lump in his wedding vegetables).

 

What do we reckon; it's louder when reversing, but doesn't seem to matter if steering lock applied.

 

It's a 62 plate Vauxhall/Fiat Combi/Doblo.

Posted

After all the rain we've had lately this could be it, but I'm suprised that it would present itself towards the end of a long dry run when the engine bay was nice and warm.  They were in Wales at the time though so anythings possible.

 

The magic box sits inside the bulk head by the drivers feet and gets hit by leaks/condensation/sweaty feet so may be worth pulling the plug checking for moisture if nothing else. Could easily be some other gremlin though might be worth a go, saying that don't blame me if unplugging makes it go into full time gimp mode!

 

I'd get that front end up in the air Bob and give it a wiggle, snapped spring? loose ball bag joint?

Posted

Hmmm, that's my thinking too Will, state of the roads round here and my penchant for "enthusiastic" driving may well have caused spring buggerage; slightly concerning in that it's only done about 18k. Might just see what happens, I'm not going to be crawling about under it. Mind you it's a good use of time* to drive to the workshop in Witham, drink tea and smoke fags.....

Posted

On the subject of vans - am I right in thinking that the Renault Master Tdi units are notably different to the DCi ones? I've seen plenty of horror stories about them self-destructing slowly, but they all seem to apply to slightly later DCi models.

 

I definitely haven't* bought a Master TDi without doing enough homework on it first. No, no.

Posted

I'm thinking of selling my SD1 now that the Cortina's on it's way. Problem is I've flippin no idea what it's worth.

Any ideas?

 

DA stats

 

2600S straight six power house with autobox

Mot'd until September

Lowered on Rimmer bros heavy duty springs and shocks.

It's solid. Few wee bits here and there but pretty much rust free and has a few wobbly bits dues to expert* paint prep by me.

Blue vee-loor interior

JDM YO! arches

Mega good Revo alloy wheels

Has been running a bit shit but hopefully sorted it now

Leaks a bit of oil from the crank oil seal

70,000 miles

 

It's not a desirable v8 but it's got other attribute so I really dunno what it's worth.

 

Recent up bonnet shot

 

12255387033_d26510a5d4_c.jpg
IMG_0745 by cort16, on Flickr

 

7669766174_e5088c0fb1_c.jpg
arches by cort16, on Flickr

Posted

That's just dirty porn.

 

You disgusting beast.

 

Want a leaky Leon?

Posted

Amy recommendations for oil drain pan? In past i have had the plastic ones from halfords but wondered if there is anything better

Posted

Amy recommendations for oil drain pan? In past i have had the plastic ones from halfords but wondered if there is anything better

Washing up bowl,but only when missus is out.

Posted

What about those under bed storage boxes you can get in cheapy shops for 2 or 3 quid? I think I'm going to use one of them next time. I had a proper oil catcher that lay on its side and looked like a jerry can when stood up but the plastic bung would flick back into place and close the hole when you're draining the oil which makes a right old mess. I'm pleased I put down plenty of newspaper and cardboard! It wasn't cheap either for what it is.

Posted

I phoned the Divla to chase up a logbook, the new type red one that never arrived automatically, it states not licenced for the taxation class, the car's old enough for free tax but the registration date is 2002 although it states elsewhere declared manufactured 1952. Now, how straightforward will it be to get a free taxdisc at my local Post Office?

Posted

That is an excellent idea if you are a lot less clumsy than me.  Those cheap storage boxes would work fine but are quite fragile,  my washing up bowl cost somebody else about 3 pounds (saved it from the bin when they left it behind) and has lasted for years,  mostly sat underneath broken cars with the dregs of the last oil change in it.

Posted

Ok quick question for you Halfords trade card users/ex Halfords employees, I'm thinking of a way to get my hands on a trade card and reading on their website they accept motor mechanics City & Guilds certificates as proof of being in the trade.

 

I've just dug out my old C&G certificates for vehicle body repair from 1998, am I being a bit naive in hoping that they will accept those?

Posted

I was told they needed to see some proof such as a business card or whatnot, in the end chating shit did the trick just as well.

Posted

I was told they needed to see some proof such as a business card or whatnot, in the end chating shit did the trick just as well.

I just turned up wearing overalls. Their checks are hardly thorough, so i expect your certificate will be more than enough, and if not then get some free business cards off vistaprint that say you're a mobile bodywork specialist and you'll be grand.

Posted

I use one like this. No problems with the oil coming out faster than it can flow into the container, and big enough for anything I'm likely to work on. The van takes 7 litres, which I discovered was just more than my previous container could hold, the first time I dropped the oil...

 

Only downside is you need something else to carry the oil in if you take it somewhere to dispose of it. But I don't trust the ones with bungs in anyway.

Posted

I just use an old oil container with one side cut out. You have to be wary if the oil is too hot though, as it goes floppy. I now always have a sheet of cardboard on the ground as I always manage to spill a bit.

 

Returning to CVTs, Audi did indeed market a diesel CVT for a time. I'd like to try one.

Posted

I use one like this. No problems with the oil coming out faster than it can flow into the container, and big enough for anything I'm likely to work on. .

 

How do you pour it out of that one?

Waste oil is no problem as have 20litre veg oil bottles sitting aroubd

 

Will have a look at store box's although always found cheap ones cracked. Tried cutting out side of bottle before but i always make a mess.

Posted

The big wide shallow boxes from the greengrocer lined with a binbag are gr9.0.7 for catching oil, just be careful getting it to your neighbours wheely bin.

  • Like 3
Posted

Hey crew. I'm doing the timing belt on my Skoda Octavia TDI and making a bit of a hash of it. Every time I pull the timing belt and cam pulley on the crankshaft moves. How do I stop this without giving Ian VAG money for a special tool? Would sticking it in gear and lowering the wheels to the ground help? CHEERZ

Posted

What paint is good for bumpers?

Im going to tidy up the 205 bumpers before putting them back on...

Black and cheap please!

Im not those linseed resto products- tried them before.

Posted

How do you pour it out of that one?

 

On the right there is a spout moulded as part of the handle. I use 20 litre drums too, but I sometimes get moaned at if I take them to the tip - they think I'm non-domestic ever since I dropped off a couple of exhausts and a radiator!

 

But some of it I use for lighting bonfires, and some for spraying the underneath of the fleet before winter. Waste not want not!

  • Like 2
Posted

Hey crew. I'm doing the timing belt on my Skoda Octavia TDI and making a bit of a hash of it. Every time I pull the timing belt and cam pulley on the crankshaft moves. How do I stop this without giving Ian VAG money for a special tool? Would sticking it in gear and lowering the wheels to the ground help? CHEERZ

Turn them back into each a bit..........then when the belt is tensioned they will be about right.

 

Truly correct way is to lock engine and move pulley I believe......where 'adjustable' pulley fitted

  • Like 1
Posted

I use this stuff and it's done a great job. There's even a 205 on the bottle! It is messy though.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251460569244

 

Thanks - it'll be perfect as I specialise in messy!

Posted

Do coil packs just stop working or is it gradual.

Thanks.

Can be either, IME. My lil sis' Renner suffered a deterioration in performance for a few days before the coil pack gave up completely, for example. Conversely, the one on my Rover 45 died on it's ass all at once and the car wouldn't start (wasted spark, so two cylinders go down with a dead CP)

Posted

Ok quick question for you Halfords trade card users/ex Halfords employees, I'm thinking of a way to get my hands on a trade card and reading on their website they accept motor mechanics City & Guilds certificates as proof of being in the trade.

 

I've just dug out my old C&G certificates for vehicle body repair from 1998, am I being a bit naive in hoping that they will accept those?

 

PM Incoming

Posted

What paint is good for bumpers?

Black and cheap please!

 

Underseal innit. That shit sticks to owt. Especially my glorious home-made lead lamps, ya bastard.

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