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Posted

Doubtful WBAC will offer you what they say on the website. The £100 will suddenly become £50.

 

I’d offer it to the scrapyard offering most. Take the radio out and all the bulbs, fuses and relays (handy to keep), the jack, stick the space saver on and take off the best wheel. If it’s got good tread it’s got to be worth a tenner to someone. If you know how, take off any ancillaries that will sell on easy like the EGR etc. Take the hubcaps off, full sets still sell well.

 

I’d take the diesel out of it if it’s got a decent quantity in it. It won’t syphon as it’s got a check valve in the neck, take out the in tank pump under the seat and use a jiggle hose to drain it. Might need to jack it up. Ideal time as well to use it to get rid of any old oil etc, once you’ve drained it, chuck it in the tank.

 

Thinking on keep the space saver and jack, these sell well to people who haven’t got a spare for an easy £20.

 

Who gives a fuck what happens to it, go for what’s going to net you the most money in the pocket.

Posted

I haven't done anything about the SORN status of the 604 for ages (I could actually tax it for free but can't bothered). I thought that you had to do SORN every year but there doesn't seem to be any expiry date on the checking website.  Have they changed the rules again or am I just wrong?

Doesnt expire now until change of keeper. 

Posted

Help! The gauges on the XJ-S are driving me nuts! Oil pressure: reads high all the time, moves up as soon as you turn on the ignition (without starting the engine), so I disconnected the wire from the (new) sender expecting the same as above, instead, the gauge no longer reads at all.  Does this point to a fault with the sender unit? If so, why? as it's a brand new one from David Manners spares, cost a bomb and is a sod an three quarters to change!

 

Also, took the dash out to clean/check all the connections and nothing looks wrong at all! Still cleaned everything and checked the ribbon thing, it has no breaks and all looks good. Why do my gauges all play silly buggers? Oil reads high, amps, fuel and water all read low - about a third as high as they should I reckon.

Posted

So two reversing lights and only one fog? I guess that's better than one of each - reversing in the dark is a pain with only one light. But why not make the nearside lower lens red, for symmetry and LHD parts sharing?

 

looks like 2 red & 2 white on newer version

Posted

I have made a cock up of my timings.

 

Is there any reason why my Saab might fail its MoT because the SID (display unit) is missing from the dash?

 

It means there's a loose cable dangling there, and no audible warnings (including the indicator tick, which is really weird).

 

The horn has stopped working and I've asked the garage to look into that, as it's an obvious fail, but I don't think the missing SID could be the cause of that... Could it?

Posted

The saab 9-5 I had needed the SID display as it had a speaker built in for the indicator tick. 

 

I think there needs to be an audible noise for indicators as part of MOT.

Posted

The saab 9-5 I had needed the SID display as it had a speaker built in for the indicator tick.

 

I think there needs to be an audible noise for indicators as part of MOT.

That's what I was afraid of, thank you!
Posted

I don't think there does as long as the idiot lights are working on the dash.

 

Maybe check the online mot regs if you can find the applicable section or message one of the mot testers on here?

Posted

I have made a cock up of my timings.

 

Is there any reason why my Saab might fail its MoT because the SID (display unit) is missing from the dash?

 

It means there's a loose cable dangling there, and no audible warnings (including the indicator tick, which is really weird).

 

The horn has stopped working and I've asked the garage to look into that, as it's an obvious fail, but I don't think the missing SID could be the cause of that... Could it?

https://www.mot-testing.service.gov.uk/documents/manuals/class3457/Section-4-Lamps-reflectors-and-electrical-equipment.html#section_4.9

 

A direction indicator ‘tell-tale’ can be audible or visual.

 

A hazard warning ‘tell-tale’ must be a flashing light.

 

The way I read that, as long as the dash direction indicator light flashes you're ok. Or it beeps. But doesn't have to be both.

  • Like 2
Posted

Could I get a slightly sheddy ('94) AX on a classic policy? Never had one before, because the mileage limits are to restrictive for a daily. 

Posted

I have made a cock up of my timings.

 

Is there any reason why my Saab might fail its MoT because the SID (display unit) is missing from the dash?

 

It means there's a loose cable dangling there, and no audible warnings (including the indicator tick, which is really weird).

 

The horn has stopped working and I've asked the garage to look into that, as it's an obvious fail, but I don't think the missing SID could be the cause of that... Could it?

 

Indicator warning lights only is OK -we had a  9-5 that passed four or five MOTs like this, bonus being that broken SID buzzer meant no annoying "bing bongs". Horn is also controlled by SID - the horn push is combined with steering wheel radio controls, and SID "filters" the signals before sending them on.

Posted

Indicator warning lights only is OK -we had a 9-5 that passed four or five MOTs like this, bonus being that broken SID buzzer meant no annoying "bing bongs". Horn is also controlled by SID - the horn push is combined with steering wheel radio controls, and SID "filters" the signals before sending them on.

I'll test this at the weekend - if I put the SID back in and the horn springs back into life I'll be a very happy man!
Posted

I'll test this at the weekend - if I put the SID back in and the horn springs back into life I'll be a very happy man!

 

If you don't want to refit the SID, grounding the brown/orange cable at SID should sound horn (ignition on or off). Early cars (98-04?) pin 11, later cars pin 17.

 

If you have one, the 97-04 Haynes manual has an accurate wiring diagram.

  • Like 3
Posted

Also - how twattish a job are front wheel bearings on an Alfa 156? Asking for a friend like.

Expect lots of fun trying to remove steel bolts from aluminium castings. I wouldn’t attempt it without a heat source.

  • Like 1
Posted

Could I get a slightly sheddy ('94) AX on a classic policy? Never had one before, because the mileage limits are to restrictive for a daily. 

 

 

 

I had a '94 AX Dimension last year. Couldn't get a Classic Policy for it, despite it being 23 years old.

 

Luckily my Saab insurers matched my NCB plus gave an additional 10% discount. Still cost me more that it was for the Mercedes 300E I ran before the AX.

  • Like 1
Posted

The octavia is throwing up a code for a camshaft position sensor.

Having a look on Amazon (which I'm finding great for car parts at the moment) and there is an Intermotor one for £18, a no name for £12 and a Delphi one for £35.

 

Silly question, is it worth going for anything other than the Delphi one?

Posted

The octavia is throwing up a code for a camshaft position sensor.

Having a look on Amazon (which I'm finding great for car parts at the moment) and there is an Intermotor one for £18, a no name for £12 and a Delphi one for £35.

 

Silly question, is it worth going for anything other than the Delphi one?

If you have a scrappies nearby I’d be tempted to nip in there lift two and pay for one. Then you’re fitting a genuine part. I’ve found especially with eBay parts price has little reflection on quality.

  • Like 1
Posted

Unfortunately my local scrappy only sells Gold plated parts or at least prices for them :(

Posted

For sensors I would always go original if you can. Heard so many stories of the cheap ones being crap.

  • Like 3
Posted

I do a bit of car breaking to keep the wolf from the door and have found some parts are far more valuable/sought after than I expected:

 

Vauxhall Omega manual gearboxes go into kit cars and I can't get enough to supply demand

Hyundai Coupe body control modules

Drivers side cup holder for Rover 75's, only ever had one and it went for high quids  

 

I'd welcome a raised awareness of other such parts that are in high demand/command a premium as I'm a proper scrap yard ferret, I can always keep an eye out for any bit's you guys need, at cost obviously 

  • Like 1
Posted

Hey guys, has anyone replaced the wash/wipe pump on a Xantia before?  Cannae find owt online for it and I don't have an hbol.  A good start would be, do you know where it is?  They're cheap to buy on ebay, but not sure how much of a pig of a job it is. 

Anyone have history with this?

It's an S2 HDi 109.

Cheers...

Posted

Hey guys, has anyone replaced the wash/wipe pump on a Xantia before? Cannae find owt online for it and I don't have an hbol. A good start would be, do you know where it is? They're cheap to buy on ebay, but not sure how much of a pig of a job it is.

Anyone have history with this?

It's an S2 HDi 109.

Cheers...

I'm not sure where it is on a Xantia, possibly buried in the wheel arch somewhere. The hardest part is removing everything in the way of the pump if that's the case, it's probably accessed through the wheel arch liner.
Posted

I'm not sure where it is on a Xantia, possibly buried in the wheel arch somewhere. The hardest part is removing everything in the way of the pump if that's the case, it's probably accessed through the wheel arch liner.

 

That's what i was afraid of ha ha - I have some arch-liner issues that I've been happily avoiding.

Posted

It's plugged into the bottom of the tank. I can't remember exactly how you get to it but it's not hard. It's a service item, six months is a good innings for one of those pumps.

  • Like 1

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