Ask a Shiter

[tobyd]

I have a starter relay. I think it is kaput. Its for a bike

 

With 12v on one terminal, other terminal to a 12v motor, other motor terminal to ground. if I apply 12v to the trigger wire I am expecting it to click and current to flow to the motor and it to turn. alas, it does not. it does turn if I bridge the two solenoid terminals.

 

Is this indicative of it being broken?

[steveo3002]

I have a starter relay. I think it is kaput. Its for a bike

 

With 12v on one terminal, other terminal to a 12v motor, other motor terminal to ground. if I apply 12v to the trigger wire I am expecting it to click and current to flow to the motor and it to turn. alas, it does not. it does turn if I bridge the two solenoid terminals.

 

Is this indicative of it being broken?

sounds about right....could use a length of wire with a spade crimped on each end to bridge the wiring to see if it works.

[twosmoke300]

You can power the exciter terminals of most relays with a 9v pp3 battery if it helps

[Guest Hooli]

I have a starter relay. I think it is kaput. Its for a bike

 

With 12v on one terminal, other terminal to a 12v motor, other motor terminal to ground. if I apply 12v to the trigger wire I am expecting it to click and current to flow to the motor and it to turn. alas, it does not. it does turn if I bridge the two solenoid terminals.

 

Is this indicative of it being broken?

 

Aye, provided the fourth terminal is earthed so the trigger circuit can complete.

[tobyd]

I don't think there is a forth terminal - the housing sits in a rubber shell and there is just battery to terminal 1, terminal 2 to starter and starter switch (via safety relay) to trigger. I'd assumed the trigger earths through the starter connection?

 

Even with the casing earthed it doesn't fire so i'm going to say its deaded and get a replacement.

 

cheers for confirming logic though!

[Guest Hooli]

Oh three terminal relays, voodoo!

 

 

(I'd forgot about them)

[Asimo]

Lack of space around the terminal and fat hands prevent decent space. Not helped with various wiring looms and pipes getting in the way. The nut does start catching then it slips.

 

As you can probably see in the pic the internal thread of the nut is completely collapsed.

 

IMG_6398.JPG

Are you trying to remove the lead or to tighten up on the terminal?

 

If the latter, another nut should do, the stripped nut isn't going to stop new nut clamping the terminal.

 

Anyway, it should be a brass nut so quite weak, mole grips may crush it enough to wind it off, or even split it.

[artdjones]

Thanks for the above responses...

 

Another wuestion not relating to the above.....what would be the correct grade of oil for my 2007 Fiesta 1.6 TDCi (which I am lead to believe is the 1.6 HDi engine).... I know these engines are quite fussy when it comes to oil and throw turbos for a pastime so just wondering what the correct grade is....

 

From memory I seem to think it is 0w30 or 0w40....could someone please confirm?

 

Thanks,

 

 

James

It's a 5w30.The best oil for this engine is Total Ineo ECS.That's the one Total developed with PSA for this engine.

[Wingz123]

^^^ Excellent - thank you artdjones

[dozeydustman]

Are you trying to remove the lead or to tighten up on the terminal?

 

If the latter, another nut should do, the stripped nut isn't going to stop new nut clamping the terminal.

 

Anyway, it should be a brass nut so quite weak, mole grips may crush it enough to wind it off, or even split it.

Trying to wind it off as the internal thread has collapsed. It has jammed on the terminal leaving the lead terminal loose. Got a feeling this was the initial poor charging problem in the first place, after I put the alternator on in December last year the car went to a garage to have other jobs done which involved removing the alternator from the car. Just wondering if garage has overtightened it, as I only did it up finger tight then about 1/8turn with the ratchet.

[stillOrange]

Would anyone here like to fix and put back on the road an old Fiat/Seat I've hidden away?

 

Obviously I would transport it to your location and pay for your time, parts and all.

[Wingz123]

Would anyone here like to fix and put back on the road an old Fiat/Seat I've hidden away?

 

Obviously I would transport it to your location and pay for your time, parts and all.

What is required to get it back on the road?

[stillOrange]

What is required to get it back on the road?

http://autoshite.com/topic/28095-project-codename-f133-tiny-car-tiny-updates

[coalnotdole]

Trying to wind it off as the internal thread has collapsed. It has jammed on the terminal leaving the lead terminal loose. Got a feeling this was the initial poor charging problem in the first place, after I put the alternator on in December last year the car went to a garage to have other jobs done which involved removing the alternator from the car. Just wondering if garage has overtightened it, as I only did it up finger tight then about 1/8turn with the ratchet.

I've had success with similar nuts on starter motors by drilling through the nut parallel with the bolt using a 2 or 3mm drill then splitting with a cold chisel so it stretches the nut enough to wind off.

 

Couple of thick washers before the nut when you put it back together will make sure it has some thread to tighten up on.

 

Dave

[dozeydustman]

I've had success with similar nuts on starter motors by drilling through the nut parallel with the bolt using a 2 or 3mm drill then splitting with a cold chisel so it stretches the nut enough to wind off.

 

Couple of thick washers before the nut when you put it back together will make sure it has some thread to tighten up on.

 

Dave

 

 

To do that Dave I have to remove the Alternator, which is a ball-ache I could do without. Need to purloin a Torx socket for that, and remove most of the contents of the engine bay.

 

What's made things worse (see grumpy thread) is the terminal thread is gubbed as well, so in the long run that would need to come off and be replaced as well. As I don't have long term plans for the Saab now I just want it to see me through the winter, so going to do a quality* repair to tide it over.

[Guest Slongchod]

To do that Dave I have to remove the Alternator, which is a ball-ache I could do without. Need to purloin a Torx socket for that, and remove most of the contents of the engine bay.

 

What's made things worse (see grumpy thread) is the terminal thread is gubbed as well, so in the long run that would need to come off and be replaced as well. As I don't have long term plans for the Saab now I just want it to see me through the winter, so going to do a quality* repair to tide it over.

 

As Asimo says above, just leave the stripped nut on there and put another nut on.

[dozeydustman]

As Asimo says above, just leave the stripped nut on there and put another nut on.

 

 

Tried, won't clamp up tight enough.

[omegod]

Tried, won't clamp up tight enough.

 

Weld the nut on 

[Fumbler]

I agree. That should give you a very very good chance of unsticking it.

[bramz7]

So....

 

Garage called me to say the tensioner in the Gates timing kit I got for them is the wrong size.

It's either going to chafe the belt or slip off.

 

Is this right? I've looked on Gates website and they list one timing kit for the XU10 non turbo engine range up until 1994. This kit is the one I bought.

 

Help?

[DodgeRover]

Has somebody unpacked it previously and swapped it?

[bub2006]

Car at junction earlier this evening pulled out behind me for a short while. It was a new BMW right hand drive in resale silver with two suits in it. The thing I don't get is the reg plate was silver numbers on a black background and ere just 5 numbers. Not a style I've seen before. Can anyone help my curiosity?!

[dozeydustman]

Car at junction earlier this evening pulled out behind me for a short while. It was a new BMW right hand drive in resale silver with two suits in it. The thing I don't get is the reg plate was silver numbers on a black background and ere just 5 numbers. Not a style I've seen before. Can anyone help my curiosity?!

 

Diplomatic plates or Channel Islands.

[bub2006]

I wasn't sure if diplomatic, military or even channel islands?

[skattrd]

Just numbers I think is Guernsey.

Jersey is J + numbers, I've got some here

[3VOM]

Can anyone identify these two machines, please?

Likely to be late 40s early 50s.

[wuvvum]

Yep, that big plug is a BMW one - there will be a socket buried behind the ashtray - you may need to take out the climate panel and the ashtray to get at it.

 

This is the only pic I can find on t'internet - obviously yours won't have anything plugged into it

 

 

Inked1_LI.jpg

 

I know it sounds weird, but that's hewn from granite German engineering for you - once you plug that BMW plug into the socket behind the ashtray, it will supply power to the box in the boot and that will energise the blue and white connectors and the screen should power up.  One thing the more beardy 75 folk have established is that if you have a cassette deck under that screen it's plug n play - but apparently the single CD player version doesn't work with the original Rover/BMW box in the boot.

I can haz satnav!!!

 

 

Thanks for all the pointers, muchly appreciated.  Now all I have to do is get it to fit in the dashboard and I'm well away.

 

Telly doesn't work though.

 

 

[Guest Hooli]

Oh that looks like analogue (at least I've never seen a digi tv do that) very retro, just put a set top box on the dash.

[wuvvum]

OK, another daft brake-related question.  I was going to change the rear brake shoes on the Rover 45 today, but I was stymied by the shoe retaining pins.  Normally I would expect the pin heads to be oval, so that if turned one way they lock in the springs but when turned the other way they can slide through the hole in said springs.  That is also what the diagram looked like in the HBOL.  However the actual pins look like this:

 

 

I couldn't see any way of getting them out without breaking them.  What am I missing here? 

 

(I've decided not to change the shoes for now anyway as there's still a bit of meat on them, but they're going to need doing before too much longer.)

[Guest Hooli]

Aren't they just a spring clip, you push it back so the head of the pin comes out of that indent & slide them off.