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Best way to do an oil change?


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Posted

I would never use a flushing oil unless you know the car from new and it’s always been done. They can dislodge all sorts of shite and cause big problems.

I couldn't agree more, anything that releases a lifetime of crud into the engine in one go can only lead to problems.

 

What I meant was just a fill with cheap shite for a short while to hopefully get rid of 90% of the dirty 10% the first change left.

Posted

Stop engine after at operating temp.

 

Drain oil immediately. Leave as long as possible. Win.

 

Please do not let it cool unduly. Meh to Pela-type pumps. Seen too much crap left behind for me to be comfortable with them. Feel  free to disagree.  :-)

Halve oil change intervals and use oe spec oils to gradually flush heavily contaminated engines. Or clean them out manually.

Posted

Get it hot...then when the sump plug drops out unexpectedly and the container falls over you can get maximum coverage of your drive and the road.

 

Wear gloves and overall.

Posted

I always drain it hot. Extractor pumps are the work of the devil and not allowed near my engines. I change mine at around 4000 miles.

One car has 243000 on the clock, the other has 182000 on the clock. Both engines run very nicely indeed.  :-D

  • Like 3
Posted

Do what I did and fly over a speed hump at 45 and smash it's sump. Refilling was trickier but I won't share that on here.

  • Like 6
Posted

Do what I did and fly over a speed hump at 45 and smash it's sump. Refilling was trickier but I won't share that on here.

 

 

Blu tack and sellotape sump repair, right?

Posted

Struggling to understand the negativity towards oil extractors TBH. I've spotted our local local garage using a big compressor driven unit for oil changes and I've heard anecdotally that many dealerships (Audi included) do too, things move on...

 

RE leaving 'crap' behind, if the oil's properly hot then any nasties should be held in suspension within the oil and come out with it irrespective whether it's drained from the sump or via vacuum, they key being to make sure the oil's properly hot before getting going (For both methods)

 

I can understand for some cars the shape of the sump etc mean they don't work as well and in those circumstances clearly a traditional drain is required, same goes for a sump that's full of thick sludge, cracking the plug is probably the best option but for well maintained engines run on decent oil I can't see any problems with using a Pela. As mentioned I can actually extract more from the Golf using the Pela than by cracking the plug but oil by it's very nature clings to surfaces and you're never going to get 100% of it out no matter what method you use really. 

 

I'd imagine when washing machines were invented there was a hardcore elite who insisted washing by hand was still the 'best' way... Each to their own I suppose.

  • Like 3
Posted

If petrol, park directly over a road drain to save finding somewhere to put the oil.

If diesel, catch the oil in something and then put it in the fuel tank.

Posted

If y'all love them so much, anyone's welcome to make an offer for my used never Pela 6000.  I bought it for my Paedo Bus because I hate climbing underneath it (even jacked, chocked and on axle stands) but it wouldn't pass go through the dipstick, so I bought some 'Man the fuck UP' tablets and do it properly*

 

*Properly, because the sump plug was considered, designed and installed for the removal of engine oil.  In the absence of a sump plug, then a pump is the proper way.

Posted

If y'all love them so much, anyone's welcome to make an offer for my used never Pela 6000.  I bought it for my Paedo Bus because I hate climbing underneath it (even jacked, chocked and on axle stands) but it wouldn't pass go through the dipstick, so I bought some 'Man the fuck UP' tablets and do it properly*

 

*Properly, because the sump plug was considered, designed and installed for the removal of engine oil.  In the absence of a sump plug, then a pump is the proper way.

£5

Posted

Where the extractor scores is when you have overfilled the sump.

 

I’m surprised the Luddite element hasn’t got themselves in a flap about the oil release valve...

  • Like 1
Posted

On pd 1.9 tdis sucking the oil out through the dipstick tube gets more out than out the sump plug

 

True story

 

 

Also it saves wrestling with the utter abortion that is the undertray on a4's and pisswets

  • Like 6
Posted

I can`t work on my car any longer - galloping osteo arthritis and old age........... I used to remove the plugs and when I had filled up with fresh oil and fitted the 

 

filter, spin the engine over on the starter motor until the oil light went out/gauge showed pressure had built up. In those days, you changed the plugs every 5K,

 

today`s plugs seem to last forever. Not sure if you can do this on a modern with coil packs and the complex (complex to me) electronics.

  • Like 2
Posted

On pd 1.9 tdis sucking the oil out through the dipstick tube gets more out than out the sump plug

 

True story

 

 

 

The above true story is indeed true.

 

It is also true for VE 1.9 tdi's

 

And for NA 1.9 SDi's

  • Like 2
Posted

£5

 

£6

 

(Can't hurt to have a spare)

  • Like 1
Posted

I use a motorised pump through the dipstick on mine.  Always run the car up to temperature and then do it.  I can get about 4.6 litres out of the 5, which I'm basically happy with and my oil is always the 'right' spec for my engine.  I must, however, do Lady Grumpius' Focus because I'm sure it's several times over the service interval.  Oops.

 

 

 

On your PD 130? If so then the capacity including filter is 4.5l according to Haynes and also the owners hand book. 

 

If you're getting 4.6l out I'd say you've done a pretty thorough job :)

  • Like 2
Posted

£6

 

(Can't hurt to have a spare)

£7!
  • Like 1
Posted

On the subject of pumps, my Smart didn't have a sump drain plug from the factory so I used a diesel hand primer pump from a Rover 400 to remove the oil. Tedious, but cheap.

 

I had to replace the sump due to corrosion and, on removing the old sump, found that I had got pretty much every last drop of oil with the pump - must admit I was surprised how well it had done. However, the oil always used to go black very quickly after a change, nowadays it stays clear for much longer. Make of that what you will.

Posted

most pd s are 3.8 litres

 

Without wishing to be contrary, not according to the owners handbook chief ;)

 

32898635178_cc3067142a_c.jpg

 

 

31832672457_d686eeae6e_c.jpg

 

 

 

31832671747_38cc43dea6_c.jpg

 

All of the 1.9 PD lumps (100/130/150) take 4.5l with a filter change *Yes, I'm the kind of saddo who has VAG owners manuals to hand*

 

Admittedly you'd be doing well to drain every last living drop, but 3.8l would be well short.

  • Like 2
Posted

On your PD 130? If so then the capacity including filter is 4.5l according to Haynes and also the owners hand book.

 

If you're getting 4.6l out I'd say you've done a pretty thorough job :)

To be fair, it might have been slightly overfilled at some point. Oil warning light came on today so the oil change will happen this weekend. Had some in the boot so just topped up but it’s due a change...

  • Like 1
Posted

1. An oil change is always done on a warm engine. Always.

 

2. When the oil is changed, the filter is changed. There is no exception to this rule.

 

3. Do not put your car on ramps, or jack it up. The car should be level.

 

4. Do your oil change swiftly. Do not walk away and 'have a brew' to let the oil drain. Always try to be finished with your oil change within ten minutes, all in. More oil pumps than not are not self priming. By letting the system bleed beyond the big gush you risk the oil pump running empty. A bit of old oil remaining in the sump makes no difference when diluted with SIX FUCKING LITRES of fresh oil.

 

5. Replace the seal ring of the oil drain plug with a new one. Never ever reuse the old one. There is no exception to this rule.

 

6. Do not tighten the oil drain plug beyond the specified torque.

 

7. Always heed manufacturer's instructions outlined in the manual. You will be surprised how they differ from car to car.

  • Like 7
Posted

Best way I’ve found is to undo the oil cap and tip the fucker on its roof.

 

Not a big fan of the pump idea, swapping oil doesn’t take that long the old fashioned way, doesn’t sound less messy either as you’ve still got to clean the pump up after. I’ll stick to my industrial sized cake tin.

 

Or do what 90% of people do these days and don’t even bother. Spend the money you would otherwise waste on oil on beer or something.

  • Like 3
Posted

E3 Technical.html Passat 1.9Tdi from my tech data system

 

 

 

 

 

Capacity:
Filter 0,5 litre
Capacity 3,7 litre
Use:
Normal
Intervals:
Change 15000 km/ 12 months
Products:
QUANTUM LONGLIFE III 5W-30
 
QUANTUM PLATINUM PLUS 5W-30
 
QUANTUM PLATINUM 5W-40
Capacity:
Filter 0,5 litre
Capacity 3,7 litre
Use:
Extended drain (max)
Intervals:
Change 45000 miles/ 36 months
Products:
QUANTUM LONGLIFE III 5W-30
 
QUANTUM LONGLIFE II 0W-30
 
 
A4 from the quantum site
 
 
All go out with oil on the max after a good oil change inc slackening the filter off before dropping the sump plug , so the filter totally drains
Posted

I'm rather more inclined to believe the instruction booklet that came with my Golf, to be honest.  It says the same as Joey is posting.

 

Also, when I fill to the intended capacity and check the oil level, about 4.5 puts me right on the dipstick.

Posted

1. An oil change is always done on a warm engine. Always.

 

2. When the oil is changed, the filter is changed. There is no exception to this rule.

 

3. Do not put your car on ramps, or jack it up. The car should be level.

 

4. Do your oil change swiftly. Do not walk away and 'have a brew' to let the oil drain. Always try to be finished with your oil change within ten minutes, all in. More oil pumps than not are not self priming. By letting the system bleed beyond the big gush you risk the oil pump running empty. A bit of old oil remaining in the sump makes no difference when diluted with SIX FUCKING LITRES of fresh oil.

 

5. Replace the seal ring of the oil drain plug with a new one. Never ever reuse the old one. There is no exception to this rule.

 

6. Do not tighten the oil drain plug beyond the specified torque.

 

7. Always heed manufacturer's instructions outlined in the manual. You will be surprised how they differ from car to car.

 

1. Agreed.

 

2. Agreed.

 

3. Depends on the location of the sump plug.

 

4. I find letting the sump keep draining while swapping the filter is plenty long enough for the last dregs to drip out.

 

5. I never bother & they never leak as I've not overtightened & damaged them previously.

 

6. I wish most people knew this rather than doing them up with a 15ft breaker bar.

 

7. I'm a man, I don't read instructions.

  • Like 3
Posted

Or as I have said before, fill the engine with water. The oil floats to the top so you can easily skim it off. Then remove the sump nut to let the water out.

 

Easy!

  • Like 8
Posted

 

attachicon.gifE3 Technical.html Passat 1.9Tdi from my tech data system

 

 

 

 

 

Capacity:
Filter 0,5 litre
Capacity 3,7 litre
Use:
Normal
Intervals:
Change 15000 km/ 12 months
Products:
QUANTUM LONGLIFE III 5W-30
 
QUANTUM PLATINUM PLUS 5W-30
 
QUANTUM PLATINUM 5W-40
Capacity:
Filter 0,5 litre
Capacity 3,7 litre
Use:
Extended drain (max)
Intervals:
Change 45000 miles/ 36 months
Products:
QUANTUM LONGLIFE III 5W-30
 
QUANTUM LONGLIFE II 0W-30
 
 
A4 from the quantum site
 
 
All go out with oil on the max after a good oil change inc slackening the filter off before dropping the sump plug , so the filter totally drains

 

 

^Yes, Passats have a smaller sump, but what you actually said was...

 

 

most pd s are 3.8 litres

 

That's not correct.

 

Octavia's/Golf's/A3's/Ibiza's/Leon's/Polo's and the vast majority of cars using the 1.9 PD engine usually require 4.5l, Passats are one of the few exceptions to that rule. Most  PD's take 4.5l.

 

*Disengages hyper-pedant mode*

  • Like 1

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