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Posted

It's free whichever way you do it as long as you send the new keeper's bit off too. It won't do any harm to mention they never sent you another one out as they're so utterly incometant at times they would probably admit it might not have got there.

Posted
Are camper vans cheaper in the winter or do they hold their value? I would have thought that they drop a fair bit TBH as everyone offloads them at the end of summer and there is a glut on the market.

Many people who do not have space on their drives have to pay for storage over the winter. The boatyard where I keep my boat has acres of campers and caravans. So I would imagine that if they were upgrading they would sell in the autumn and buy the new one in the spring. Mind you with the way the seasons are changing so that now we get all the rain in the summer and mild dry winters there may be some reassessment going on.

Posted

Thought so, bit thought I would ask. Some friends are looking for a camper. I have asked if they need it now or can wait for next year. One of them is not working at the mo so they may as well wait and get a nice one when they have more money for cheaper.

Posted
Air cooled.

in West Wales, they're water cooled! ;-)

Posted

Silly question i suspect but can the alloys of a front wheel drive Escort really safely fit a rear wheel drive Cortina? (other car makes are available)

 

7538989754_a575bd26e5_z.jpg

Ford Cortina MarkV, 2.0GL Estate, 1981 by be.friends2012, on Flickr

 

Now i would have thought the offset would be wrong so they wouldn't be safe to fit but I've seen this a few times on Cortinas now, some often have Mondeo ST24 4 spoke alloys as well.

Posted

I always thought that suspension damage/wear was caused by the reverse (rwd wheels on fwd) - I'd imagine the cortina would handle like poo, but nothing worse?

 

Also, the rears could have spacers behind them?

Posted

Conventional wisdom has it that RWD offsets on a FWD car, overstresses the wheel bearings, and wears them out in short order.

However, quite apart from looking like cheapo trainers with a nice suit, I'd be concerned that the inside of the 'Scrote alloys would foul something on the 'Tina front suspension at full lock. The twin wishbone setup on those is quite 'chunky', and the steering arms were never meant to accept that offset either.

Stick some steels, with nice chrome trim rings back on that, and I'd be all over it like Andy Murray on an actual trophy.

Posted

While were on the subject, does anyone know the proper name for Ford "dartboards"?

Posted

Cortina 3/4/5 and sierra all run FWD offset wheels (ET15 I think..) so you risk doing more damage with wellers or capri lazer wheels than you do with fiesta/escort/mondeo/focus ones. I use mondeo 14" steels as cheap winter wheels.

Posted

^Right enough...'spose I'm just used to seeing bigger wheels on cars these days! Should've known tho, from the number of shit 'Tinas that kicked about with Weller 8-spokes and RS 4-spokes, like you say.

The Mondeo wheels don't foul anything on the front suspension/steering? Must file that away, in case I ever get back to 'Tina ownership.

Talking of old Fords; was there ever a Mk3 'Scort Ghia X? I recall a discussion ages ago, within these hallowed precincts, about how it was possible to order Fords then, with various 'packs', thus creating 'phantom' models if you will. I only ask, 'cos I've been mucking around with a crap pic I took of an early Mk3, and the bootlid badges appear to be 'Escort 1.6 Ghia X'. It has the chrome window trim and a rubber spoiler, but it was in Kirkcaldy so it's anyone's guess. :lol:

Posted

FWD ford wheels don't foul anything at all on a cortina, RWD (capri,escort) wheels kill the front lower ball joints in short order.

 

I think it was possible to get an escort ghia x, but it probably cost as much as a sierra 1.6GL so would be fairly rare.

Posted

I don't think they did make an Escort Ghia X.

 

There were a few weird Cortina and Granada Ghias, but I don't think it ever fell as far as the FWD Escrots. My dad had a new Mk1 Granada 3.0 Ghia S which people constantly tell me they never made even though I remember it being unloaded brand spanking new from the Ford transporter on the forecourt of dad's garage with the Ghia S badge on the back, aircon, black paint, a manual box, front spotlights, three spoke steering wheel and glaringly yellow Bilstein shocks.

 

The Granada was special order, but anything is / was possible.

Posted

Mk3/4 Escort wheels won't fit due to smaller bolt holes. 1990 onwards are ok though.

Posted

Would I be really mad to consider purchasing a Land Rover Freelander 1.8 petrol? Could this be a recipe for OMG HGF, or are they mainly now sorted?

 

Quite fancy a discovery, but lugging around 2.5tons of empty space around me seems a little pointless. I fear a 2k discovery is more likely to be "one life, tow it", but not sure that spending the same amount on a freelander would improve my chances...

Posted

I don't think they were ever 'sorted' unless an owner replaced said HG with one of those triple layer ones, made a proper job of it and constantly changed the coolant etc. Unless it was mega cheap I wouldn't piss on one if it was on fire.

Posted

thanks! that's really useful - now done a bit more research and it seems that all petrol freelanders should be avoided - which you've just confirmed!

 

Much appreciated, I'll go look at some TD4s.

Posted

Mate, IME ALL Freelander 1's are to be avoided, and the HG is the least of your worries, which ironically they had licked by the time MGR went tits up. The new Revision 3 headset and oil rail just never made the production line. Common Freelander 1 issues include the following. This list is by no means exhaustive.

 

Hill Descent Control (HDC) wires in the gear lever snap

AC leaks from the expansion valve

Tailgate leaks

Wipers constantly work loose

The rear subframe strengthening tube cracks and needs re-welded. This is v. common according to my inside man at Charles Hurst Land Rover

Sunroof jams open, sometimes the windows open by themselves

They om nom nom wheel bearings and propshaft centre bearings

Posted

That good eh? Hmm - might have to rethink then!

 

I'm trying to find something that has a presence on the road (I've been hit in stationary traffic too many times in small cars!) that hopefully wouldn't be a money pit and might not lose much value. I guess not being a money pit seems to write any Land Rover off, especially for the amount I'd like to pay.

Posted

It sounds to me you are heading towards Mercedes CLK territory.

Posted

406 remote key fob programming question. Mine doesn't work and neither does the solution offered by the owners manual...

 

"PROGRAMMING the remote control...

1. Push on the big button in the middle until the little light NO LONGER blinks.

2. Release the button , the lamp stays ON.

3. Push TWICE on the button in the immediate vicinity of the car.

4. Turn the ignition contact On for at least 3 seconds.

5. Turn the ignition off.

 

6. The key fob, remote control now works again."

 

Stage 2 is where the manuals procedure falls on its arse cos the LED on the key fob doesn't stay illuminated.

 

Any ideas?

Posted

I couldn't code the spare on Mrs Alfs A4.............apparently something is broken.

 

I found out by accident that if I put the spare in the ignition and then operate the central locking from the 'manual' lock in the car it made it work. No idea why. You never know...........

Posted

Try the Vauxhall method; put keys into ignition, turn to first position then press button on remote. Doors should the lock and job done, assuming your (keyfob) battery is ok.

Posted

Switch ignition ON

Press and hold the Lock button for 10 seconds

Remove key from ignition

Wait 5 seconds

Sync complete

Confirm sync has been successful by locking, double-locking and unlocking vehicle.

 

That's the procedure for 2001 on 406s. If yours is earlier, let us know.

 

Edited for mong spelling. I have a plaster on my finger.

Posted
It sounds to me you are heading towards Mercedes CLK territory.

 

Hope not! Would prefer something useful - load carrying and/or awd.

Posted
Switch ignition ON

Press and hold the Lock button for 10 seconds

Remove key from ignition

Wait 5 seconds

Sync complete

Confirm sync has been successful by locking, double-locking and unlocking vehicle.

 

That's the procedure for 2001 on 406s. If yours is earlier, let us know.

 

Edited for mong spelling. I have a plaster on my finger.

 

Nope. :evil:

Posted

Have you tried turning the ignition on and pressing each button n turn? That worked for me on the C5.

Posted
That good eh? Hmm - might have to rethink then!

 

I'm trying to find something that has a presence on the road (I've been hit in stationary traffic too many times in small cars!) that hopefully wouldn't be a money pit and might not lose much value. I guess not being a money pit seems to write any Land Rover off, especially for the amount I'd like to pay.

 

For £2k I'd be looking at Mk1 Honda CRVs and early Mk2 Toyota RAV4s. My mum has used and abused a 2001 RAV4 for the last seven years and its still going strong and it's needed very little non-servicing work. Petrol ones come with 2.0 VVTi engines. Honda CRVs are just as reliable and have a more boxy, simple practical shape than the RAV4.

 

Of course, neither will match a Land Rover in the mud, although I can't imagine a 1800 Freelander is that good either.

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