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Posted

Thanks, I shall pass that on.

 

It's got recovery cover so I could get it dragged all the way back but I imagine the cause is a slightly* corroded brake pipe letting go.  I don't have flaring kit and hate working with brake fluid so it seems silly to drag it back down to take to a garage down here.  I would essentially be costing my insurance company £hundreds in order to save £60 of diesel.

Posted

Right, some assistance with the spark carrying pixies plz :)

 

The Oxford has a full compliment of dials - Oil pressure, coolant temp, ammeter and fuel gauge.

 

At the moment, only the fuel gauge and oil pressure work (as in reads a value)..

 

I'm trying to work out where the sender's that inform these gauges are on the 1500 B series fitted.

 

Any advice on location of the following would be appreciated:

 

Oil pressure sensor

Feed for ammeter (the gauge always just wobbles about the 0, never reading + or - )

Coolant temp sensor - gauge always raads cold. Can't see a sensor on rad/near thermostat or in any of the pipework)

 

Cheers awfully old beans :)

Do you have any engine bay pics, I'm not sure how many differences there are to the B series in the MGB.

Posted

Do you have any engine bay pics, I'm not sure how many differences there are to the B series in the MGB.

Looking at my pictures of the thing it's all welding:)

 

Will see if I can get some pics soon!

Posted

Right, some assistance with the spark carrying pixies plz :)

 

The Oxford has a full compliment of dials - Oil pressure, coolant temp, ammeter and fuel gauge.

 

At the moment, only the fuel gauge and oil pressure work (as in reads a value)..

 

I'm trying to work out where the sender's that inform these gauges are on the 1500 B series fitted.

 

Any advice on location of the following would be appreciated:

 

Oil pressure sensor

Feed for ammeter (the gauge always just wobbles about the 0, never reading + or - )

Coolant temp sensor - gauge always raads cold. Can't see a sensor on rad/near thermostat or in any of the pipework)

 

Cheers awfully old beans :)

 

The temperature sender screws into the side of the block just below the thermostat. Look for the triangular thermostat housing(where the top radiator hose attaches) and go straight down from it on the spark plug side of the block. You should see it, or at least see where it screws in.

 

Depending on the application, the B series engine was used with either an electric or mechanical oil pressure gauge. Regardless of the gauge type, it connects to the same place. There should be a flex hose(with a woven sheath) attached to the block just behind and above the distributor. It's along the oil galley that would also provide the rear connection to the oil cooler(if fitted). The flex hose can either go to a copper line that runs behind the dash to the gauge, or it can go to an electric sender that's a disk about 1 1/2" in diameter, 3/4" thick, and mounted above the oil filter mount.

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Posted

Before I hand over this lightly used exhaust to be fitted, how should I clean off the old paste/gum/glue/putty or whatever please?

 

post-20084-0-80599000-1539528947_thumb.jpg

Posted

Sandpaper?

 

Spose so, just wondered if a chemical way of some sort to avoid any damage (not that you can damage a bit of metal pipe much with sanding!)

Posted

The temperature sender screws into the side of the block just below the thermostat. Look for the triangular thermostat housing(where the top radiator hose attaches) and go straight down from it on the spark plug side of the block. You should see it, or at least see where it screws in.

 

Depending on the application, the B series engine was used with either an electric or mechanical oil pressure gauge. Regardless of the gauge type, it connects to the same place. There should be a flex hose(with a woven sheath) attached to the block just behind and above the distributor. It's along the oil galley that would also provide the rear connection to the oil cooler(if fitted). The flex hose can either go to a copper line that runs behind the dash to the gauge, or it can go to an electric sender that's a disk about 1 1/2" in diameter, 3/4" thick, and mounted above the oil filter mount.

Excellent, many thanks for that..

 

I shall peruse as soon as possible. I think I may not have a temp sender at all - think I may just have a blanking plug?

Posted

Feed for ammeter (the gauge always just wobbles about the 0, never reading + or - )

 

 

Cheers awfully old beans :)

 

According to the internet the ammeter seems to be wired as a shunt* via the control box.

 

*Shunt is a way of getting the ammeter to show current flow without the entire current having to pass through the gauge.  The majority of the current passes through a resistance coil (the shunt) in the dynamo control box and the ammeter is wired across that showing the flow, but without it all passing through the ammeter.

 

My guess is a bad connection somewhere in the circuit. 

Posted

Excellent, many thanks for that..

 

I shall peruse as soon as possible. I think I may not have a temp sender at all - think I may just have a blanking plug?

My 1972 Escort Van had a temp sender and wiring but no temp gauge!

Posted

Pricing help (I know - sorry but bear with me).

 

I've had my Chevy for 18 years - 1956 Chevy 210 4 door hardtop (Sport sedan).  Right hand drive, sold new here and has the original reg number.

 

I bought as a basket case - it had been bodged full of wob and flashed over with a fucking terrible paint job.

 

In 18 years I have managed to partially dismantle it - removing the front and rear screens, wings , ground out a lot of rust etc.

 

I rebuilt the brakes (new shoes, brake pipes and wheel cylinders) but haven't completed them.

 

I never thought I'd sell it but someone has expressed a possible interest.

 

I have no idea what to ask as -

 

Almost all 56 Chevies in the UK are LHD not RHD and RHD ones are less popular anyway - I have already been sneered at by the Yee Har factions Yank fanciers

 

Loads have been modded in various ways so no two are ever the same.

 

Even basket cases here seem to be expensive because people think "Belair" 

 

but - there must be a limited market for projects.

 

I don't want to be a grabbing bastard, but I don't want to lose out.  I am only considering selling as realistically I will probably never finish the car - or find anyone I can afford to pay to finish it for me.

 

I have been asked for a price - but I really don't know the value - judging by other stuff I have seen it could be anywhere from 3-7k ?

Posted

The story so far.............Bought an 18 plate Fabia [brand new] on PCP from Skoda dealer in Yeovil. Petrol 1.0 auto.

 

In August, going up to London see the the other half, it cut out on me in the outside lane of the M3, cue much swevery and near death, managed to get it to the hard shoulder. Various warning lights, including check oil, park pilot inop, and other random scariness. Checked oil..fine. Restarted it, and trundled along in the slow lane..did it again..and again. Phoned Skoda assist. Told that a patrol would have to come and have a look before they could send a recovery truck.

Being ex A.A, I knew that on a Bank Holiday that could take forever. Restarted car, EML light now on, so limped 20 miles to my destination, telling Skoda assist that I needed a patrol to meet me there to have a look.

He duly turned up, plugged in his code reader........and said that a Skoda technician would have to have a look. He duly turned up on Sunday morning, and said there were myriad faults showing, and advised me not to drive the car. They suppled a hire car, and the Fabia was despatched to Skoda in Yeovil.

They had the car for a MONTH, and could find nothing wrong, the fault refused to re-occur. Skoda UK then said that they couldn't spend any more man hours trying to fix it...and it had to have it back.............I was not happy, but had to no choice in the matter.

Yesterday, had to go up to Oxfordshire from Maidstone [where I now have relocated to from Yeovil area] After about 80 miles.......it does it again, again at about 70 in the outside lane, ..........more swevery and near death. Same symptoms as above, but worse. More re-starting and cutting out. I was close to my destination, and the car was now in limp home mode, so phoned Skoda assist to send patrol to meet me there. He rocks up, clears fault codes.and says 'it should be fine"......yeah right, thinks I............I conclude my business, and head for home...........and you've guessed it.................happens again. This time, grinds to a halt completely. 

Back on the phone to Skoda assist. After two hours, bloke turns up from a local garage, and plugs in a generic code reader........"fuck knows mate, it's bollocksed." No shit, Sherlock.! By this time I'm royally pissed off. Phone Skoda again.......we need a tow truck, and I want the car taken to my home address...and a hire to get me home. 'No problem Sir"............."the hire car company will call you"..................

90 minutes later [after no phone call from hire car bods, A.A relay turn up......I phone again 'where's my hire car"........'you can't have one unless car is recovered to a dealer"......FFS....not what you told me 2 hours ago............

So.....A.A bloke loads car, takes it to nearest dealer [Reading] and drops me round to Eurocar..........they hire me [oh, the irony] an Octavia. Drive back to Maidstone. Get a call this morning from the dealer...."we've found the fault, chafed wiring above the gearbox"..all fixed now........

By this time I'd reached the conclusion that I want nothing more to do with a car that's tried to kill me twice. My other half won't travel in it, let alone drive it..........I want out. Ongoing discussions are taking place between Skoda UK myself, and the dealer, but I'm being leant on to take the car back....I'm not happy about this... other half even less so........................

Any advise from the Autoshite massive....!

 

 

Sales of Goods Act.  'Not fit for purpose'.  

 

https://www.which.co.uk/consumer-rights/advice/what-do-i-do-if-i-have-a-faulty-product

 

You could try arguing that a fault of that nature on a car of that age implies a faulty production, in which case there may be more faults that haven't yet become apparent.  As such, you could try to argue that you end your PCP agreement or that at the very least an independent third party should inspect the car fully, with Skoda paying the cost to do so.  If any fault is found, the car isn't fit for purpose and therefore the Sales of Goods Act applies.  If the car is OK, then you have a certificate to prove it.

Posted

Just found my 3 V5's in my office desk, fell down the back, that never got sent back for an address change 18 months ago, one is for our daily driver, two are for cars in storage, should I just send them to DVLA or phone up DVLA and inform them. 

 

We've had a royal mail postal redirect for 9 months set up but hoping no fines or anything have been missed, I'm sure they would have caught up with me by now? 

Posted

Before I hand over this lightly used exhaust to be fitted, how should I clean off the old paste/gum/glue/putty or whatever please?

 

IMG_20181014_154824.jpg

Quick touch with the flap disc on the grinder. I’d love to have been a fly on the wall at the garage when you rang up and asked them to fit a second hand exhaust. They’re a bastard to fit and seal new.

 

I’d guess though there’s not much of an alternative in this circumstance though.

Posted

What’s the proper name for the metal surround bit that a car stereo slots into and can anyone point me in the direction of one which will house a Ford Sound 2000 FD2005 into a mk4 escort.

 

Cheers all

Posted

Just found my 3 V5's in my office desk, fell down the back, that never got sent back for an address change 18 months ago, one is for our daily driver, two are for cars in storage, should I just send them to DVLA or phone up DVLA and inform them. 

 

We've had a royal mail postal redirect for 9 months set up but hoping no fines or anything have been missed, I'm sure they would have caught up with me by now? 

 

I think you can do the transfer online now;

 

https://www.gov.uk/sold-bought-vehicle

Posted

What’s the proper name for the metal surround bit that a car stereo slots into and can anyone point me in the direction of one which will house a Ford Sound 2000 FD2005 into a mk4 escort.

 

Cheers all

Cage?
Posted

From above - why don't the cages work for different radios? Universal size aren't they? - Only asking as I've just found a plastic bag with 4 different car systems in them - guaranteed the one I like or want to fit won't have the bloody cage! 

Posted

From above - why don't the cages work for different radios? Universal size aren't they? - Only asking as I've just found a plastic bag with 4 different car systems in them - guaranteed the one I like or want to fit won't have the bloody cage! 

 

They are a universal DIN/ISO size but the fittings to retain the stereo are different for different manufacturers (sometimes).

Posted

OK, so the trip computer display in the 75 has suddenly decided to start displaying in French.

 

 

Any ideas???

Posted

Qashqai Front N/S Driveshaft swop.

I have been nominated to change one of these on Thursday for the D in L.

Never done a Qashqai, and there is little info on the internet for some strange reason. We have an HBOL, but it's not been found yet.

Can anyone point me to a link that might help?

Assume in a nutshell, its crack castle nut at wheel end, remove hub, bong out the shaft, probably drain oil first.

Anything I need to watch, or that could cause a problem. I have a garage with a pit and plenty of tools.

Thanks folks.

Posted

I've been given a pile of "The Motor" mags going back to 1951 (and others, newest is 2011).

 

I feel, for the benefit of all here, I should scan the adverts and post in an appropriate thread. But what about articles, is it allowed, ie copyright, or is there a time limit so it's all fair game now ?

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