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Posted

I'm pretty sure you can't register a car with the DVLA outside the UK/Great Britain.

Posted
  On 26/09/2018 at 16:27, HarmonicCheeseburger said:

With regard to silicone spray would GT85 work or are we talking some type of interior cleaner? 

It was a Autosmart dash spray i used. 

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  • Like 1
Posted
  On 27/09/2018 at 08:06, TataBobu said:

So last year I've bought an used car from UK . Just completed the V5 with the details of the new keeper, and now the thing I have no clue about: if we send the old V5 by post to DVLA, will they send the new one to an address that's outside UK?

It is possible to register the car here with the original V5 and a hand-written contract between the registered keeper and the new owner (which I have), but it would be easier with an V5 in the new owner's name.

It should have been declared exported when it left the UK for good. Dvla will absolutely not put a foreign address or po box as the registered keeper. You will usually need the complete V5 to register it wherever it now is but it's nothing to do with the DVLA anymore.

Posted
  On 27/09/2018 at 08:06, TataBobu said:

So last year I've bought an used car from UK . Just completed the V5 with the details of the new keeper, and now the thing I have no clue about: if we send the old V5 by post to DVLA, will they send the new one to an address that's outside UK?

It is possible to register the car here with the original V5 and a hand-written contract between the registered keeper and the new owner (which I have), but it would be easier with an V5 in the new owner's name.

Which part of africa did it end up in?

Posted

Hello Hello Hello 

 

Can anyone identity this engine & its age also what model MG car it might have come out off.

 

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Posted

CV joints.

 

I have a vague idea how they work in theory, but could do with some practical pointers.  Whilst buggering about swapping wishbones on the Audi I managed to pull the driveshaft out of the CV joint.  I only discovered this when I started it up and put it in gear and it wouldn't move.  The driveshaft wouldn't simply slot back in obvs, that would have been too easy, so I had to peel back the CV boot to see where I needed to go - whereupon I was greeted by a shower of ball bearings.  I've managed to get most of them back in, but there are two which wouldn't go in - or at least they would, but then the centre bit of the joint (with the splines for the driveshaft) wouldn't move.  So the car is now capable of movement again, but the situation is obviously less than ideal.

 

So my questions are twofold:  firstly, what am I doing wrong with regard to the two ball bearings I can't get back in (and also how do I get them back in without all the others falling out again) - I know what it's supposed to look like in theory but with everything covered in grease it's hard to see exactly what's what.  Secondly, I appreciate I need to sort it out before I drive any distance, but will I be able to manoeuvre the car around as it is, or will everything fall out again as soon as I apply more than 2° of lock?

Posted

I thought only the 1,275cc had removable tappet covers, but I might be thinking of the A+ series.

Posted
  On 27/09/2018 at 18:27, Hooli said:

I thought only the 1,275cc had removable tappet covers, but I might be thinking of the A+ series.

Other way around, the 1275 A and A+ didn’t have the removable push rod/ tappet covers to increase strength. Easy way to tell between 998/1098 and 1275s.

  • Like 1
Posted
  On 27/09/2018 at 18:17, dozeydustman said:

948cc A-series from a spridget?

or a minor, the Morris cover would suggest a minor but could have been changed.
Posted
  On 27/09/2018 at 18:30, Tamworthbay said:

Other way around, the 1275 A and A+ didn’t have the removable push rod/ tappet covers to increase strength. Easy way to tell between 998/1098 and 1275s.

 

Old age + memory = bugger.

 

Ta for the info.

  • Like 2
Posted
  On 27/09/2018 at 18:34, Hooli said:

Old age + memory = bugger.

 

Ta for the info.

Weirdly it’s a very common misconception/ urban myth. Apparently they lightened the block to make the 1275 faster and to allow easier servicing, which is utter bollocks as it’s the smaller blocks that have them but I must have heard this a couple of dozen times over the years.
Posted

In my case it's just poor memory of running a Metro years ago.

  • Like 1
Posted
  On 25/09/2018 at 13:47, gm said:

there's a new old stock lucas 7" sealed beam unit in one of my boxes of crap in the garage you can have for postage if it's any use to you ? I think I posted it on here before but suprisingly* had no takers :)

 

If nobody else has asked, please may I have it?

 

The tappet chest covers were always difficult to keep oil tight. The trick is to clean the mating surfaces thoroughly and use the synthetic gaskets. Cork ones are okay but can't be re-used. And many people make the mistake of tightening up the retaining nuts; this distorts (ruins) the gasket and it leaks. Just nip it up until you see it drawing down the cover plate no more. The 'O' rings for the bolts must also be in good condition.

Posted

Over tightening gaskets etc is the most common mistake I find on cars & bikes I've worked on.

Posted
  On 27/09/2018 at 19:33, Squire_Dawson said:

If nobody else has asked, please may I have it?

 

The tappet chest covers were always difficult to keep oil tight. The trick is to clean the mating surfaces thoroughly and use the synthetic gaskets. Cork ones are okay but can't be re-used. And many people make the mistake of tightening up the retaining nuts; this distorts (ruins) the gasket and it leaks. Just nip it up until you see it drawing down the cover plate no more. The 'O' rings for the bolts must also be in good condition.

I did send a PM to gm about it the other day but not had a response :(

Posted
  On 27/09/2018 at 18:00, wuvvum said:

CV joints.

 

I have a vague idea how they work in theory, but could do with some practical pointers.  Whilst buggering about swapping wishbones on the Audi I managed to pull the driveshaft out of the CV joint.  I only discovered this when I started it up and put it in gear and it wouldn't move.  The driveshaft wouldn't simply slot back in obvs, that would have been too easy, so I had to peel back the CV boot to see where I needed to go - whereupon I was greeted by a shower of ball bearings.  I've managed to get most of them back in, but there are two which wouldn't go in - or at least they would, but then the centre bit of the joint (with the splines for the driveshaft) wouldn't move.  So the car is now capable of movement again, but the situation is obviously less than ideal.

 

So my questions are twofold:  firstly, what am I doing wrong with regard to the two ball bearings I can't get back in (and also how do I get them back in without all the others falling out again) - I know what it's supposed to look like in theory but with everything covered in grease it's hard to see exactly what's what.  Secondly, I appreciate I need to sort it out before I drive any distance, but will I be able to manoeuvre the car around as it is, or will everything fall out again as soon as I apply more than 2° of lock?

Further to the above, should the driveshaft even be able to just pull out of the CV joint like that?  Google seems to suggest that there should be some kind of clip holding it in place. :?

Posted
  On 27/09/2018 at 23:00, wuvvum said:

Further to the above, should the driveshaft even be able to just pull out of the CV joint like that?  Google seems to suggest that there should be some kind of clip holding it in place. :?

No.

 

There's normally a circlip thing in a groove on the driveshaft that locks it in place onto the inner bearing cage.

 

Without that, on lock and with load, the shaft is likely to come pinging out.

  • Like 1
Posted
  On 27/09/2018 at 18:31, Tamworthbay said:

or a minor, the Morris cover would suggest a minor but could have been changed.

 

 

Wasn't MG part of Morris-Wolseley group?

Posted

Very late in the day  - BUT

 

BRANDS HATCH - WATCHING? - I've driven it before a long way back...... but have never watched a race there. Touring Cars Season ends Sunday - I'm with munchkin, picking up Bramz BMW and seeing London Saturday. Plan is to take minima to his first 'proper' race event Sunday as a surprise on the way back out of the UK...... 

 

I know the grandstand will probably be long sold out - so where should I look to get a good view of the racing with the munchkin? 

 

Any advice most welcome.......

Posted
  On 27/09/2018 at 20:53, SiC said:

I did send a PM to gm about it the other day but not had a response :(

sorry, I did reply but the message seems to have vanished - could be down to the crappy phone signal I get at work :(

 

anyway, I'll dig it out of the garage over the weekend and check it works before getting it in the post for you

 

cheers

 

gm

Posted
  On 28/09/2018 at 13:04, Exiled_Tat_Gatherer said:

 

 

I know the grandstand will probably be long sold out - so where should I look to get a good view of the racing with the munchkin? 

 

Any advice most welcome.......

 

 

It's been years (about 35) since I've been but Graham Hill bank was always good. You could see them come down off the first 'straight' then right around the bottom of the bank after Druids & on to the indy circuit back towards the start finish 'straight'.

Posted
  On 28/09/2018 at 12:35, dozeydustman said:

Wasn't MG part of Morris-Wolseley group?

MG were always keen to badge anything as MG so can’t imagine it would have smeared under the bonnet of a midget with that cover on. Nothing to say the rocker cover is original though as they fit all sorts.
Posted

If the brake pad wear indicator wire is missing on the pads , and the plug / wire  is joined to make the light go out is that an mot fail ?  Plenty of meat on the pads visible

Posted
  On 28/09/2018 at 16:24, Christine said:

If the brake pad wear indicator wire is missing on the pads , and the plug / wire is joined to make the light go out is that an mot fail ? Plenty of meat on the pads visible

Common sense would say this is perfectly fine

Posted
  On 28/09/2018 at 16:24, Christine said:

mot

 

  On 28/09/2018 at 16:32, Wingz123 said:

Common sense

 

Am I the only one who sees the issue here?

  • Like 2
Posted

Ok , new pads with no sensor fitted on the rear .New pads on front with sensor fitted . Obviously the light doesn't extinguish .... Jumper wire across the rear plug, light  goes out . Is it a pass or fail ? What's the wording in the book ?

Posted
  On 28/09/2018 at 19:16, twosmoke300 said:

It actually has been a while since we have had a pop at testers .

It's not the testers I have issue with, it's the rules.

Posted

The only rule i can see is the light must go out . However, could it fail on incorrect pads fitted ? Wire taped up /obviously tampered with?

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