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Posted

For the other MOT testers.

 

Had a phonecall today regarding a Freelander.

Chap had his rear prop removed years ago but under the new rules the garage he took it to failed it due to propshaft missing !

The garage said as it left the factory as 4wd it should still be 4x4.

 

They've failed it for prop shaft securing bolts missing .

If there is no prop what are these bolts supposed to be securing ?

 

This left the factory as a 4wd bollocks means every modified car to these people is illegal

  • Like 1
Posted

For the other MOT testers.

 

Had a phonecall today regarding a Freelander.

Chap had his rear prop removed years ago but under the new rules the garage he took it to failed it due to propshaft missing !

The garage said as it left the factory as 4wd it should still be 4x4.

 

They've failed it for prop shaft securing bolts missing .

If there is no prop what are these bolts supposed to be securing ?

 

This left the factory as a 4wd bollocks means every modified car to these people is illegal

Utter bullshit. Test as presented. If a non-required item is not present, it can't be tested.

  • Like 2
Posted

Utter bullshit. Test as presented. If a non-required item is not present, it can't be tested.

That's exactly what I said....It's coming here on Saturday so wanted to make sure as I've looked in the manual and cannot see anything about it.

Posted

requiring Flintstones style propulsion, emissions will be sweat and strain farts. :D

:-)

Posted

Looking at the possibility that The Alfa may be "going to live on a farm"....

 

So, looking at returning to Volvos, the V70 to be precise.

 

Looked at a few online, and loads of people (sellers) have said about the 2.4 Dizzle "bulletproof" and "255,000 is nothing for one of these" all that kind of shit.

 

Is this true?

 

Possible purchase link for info

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201807158467736?make=VOLVO&year-to=2009&price-from=1000&model=V70&sort=sponsored&year-from=2006&radius=1500&onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly%20New&onesearchad=New&price-to=2500&postcode=rm162pt&advertising-location=at_cars&page=2

 

 

Assuming you are talking about the mk1 Audi 5 pot tdi then mines just clicked past 220,000 .

 

Engine feels fit, gearbox (auto) getting clunky a bit... but no impending doom sensed.

 

Things have broke, alternator, power steering pump, air con pump, door locks... but all cheaply and easily fixed.

 

They also tend to be owned by people who look after them (unlike my good self. ) would recommend.

 

That's not the VAG engine, it's Volvo's own. I think they're ok but I don't really know. A red flag for me on that one would be the ditchfinder tyres, which means it's either maintained on a budget or it eats tyres.

Posted

Wouldn’t be unduly worried about a set of budgets, it’s a 12 year old car, unlikely it will have been fitted with £200 a piece Michelins.

Posted

fuel injection cleaning - the send away type not incar

 

worth it on older cars or only if running like a bag of nails , many youtube vids showing sets with massive output differences fixed up with a clean, but are they typical results ? after all theres angry solvent being pumped though them all day

 

worth it or no?

Posted

Tyres - The Oxford needs 4 new ones. It's currently shorn with 155/R15 and it was my intention to replace them with 165/80/15 as the modern, cost effective equivalent.

 

However, the acquisition of the 1800 B series could potentially see up to a 100% increase in power once complete.

 

I'm therefore considering whether I could fit a 195/65/15 of some repute to assist. Costs and overall rolling diameter are pretty much exactly the same.

 

Do we reckon the Oxford rims would take the additional width(fnar)!?

 

post-17572-0-08982200-1533583522_thumb.png

Posted

The MGB stock wheel on Rostyles is effectively 165/80/14.

Interesting, dunno if Rostyles would suit the Oxford?

Posted

Sorry I meant that the Oxford 165/80/15 won't be too dissimilar to the stock MGB in size

Posted

Sorry I meant that the Oxford 165/80/15 won't be too dissimilar to the stock MGB in size

True. I like the original steels, so really want a solution that lets me buy tyres I can use now, and also after the conversion..

Posted

I need to change the fuel filter on Mrs sills Mazda CX5, it is behind the battery.

Looking on the font of all knowledge (YouTube) it makes a comment about memory saver or connecting to a battery

I've never used, seen or needed any kind of memory saver on a car before but obviously do not want to fuck up her car.

Do I need one or will I be fine just cracking on with the job?

Posted

Incoming ULEZ is going to have an odd effect on old cars in London.  Pre-78 cars are exempt so sightings will probably increase a bit as various shitters, lords of the manor etc bring the old classic into town rather than stump up 25 quid to bring their 20 year old modern* car into the zone.

 

I'm not sure what I would do in your position,  there are a wonderful variety of old cars that are exempt but few that are practical hatchbacks/estates and even less that are affordable.  I can recommend the Renault 12 estate if you can find one in the UK or perhaps a Maxi.

All of my cars are subject to the ULEZ, and I don't live far from the boundary which in my case is the south circular. So when visiting friends in places like Greenwich I'll either have to pay the charge or use public transport, which isn't an ideal prospect really as the train options are shite when travelling later in the evening and buses take an age.

 

Just have to deal with it I suppose, but much of the 80s and 90s tat will disappear off the streets when the residents discount 'sunset period' ends in October 2021, and there's still a fair bit of the latter knocking about.

Posted

Estate, pre-78,

 

All of my cars are subject to the ULEZ, and I don't live far from the boundary which in my case is the south circular. So when visiting friends in places like Greenwich I'll either have to pay the charge or use public transport, which isn't an ideal prospect really as the train options are shite when travelling later in the evening and buses take an age.

Just have to deal with it I suppose, but much of the 80s and 90s tat will disappear off the streets when the residents discount 'sunset period' ends in October 2021, and there's still a fair bit of the latter knocking about.

 

Not exactly pennies but it's an estate, pre-78 and a bit yellow.

 

https://www.autoclassics.com/advert/56619

Posted

True. I like the original steels, so really want a solution that lets me buy tyres I can use now, and also after the conversion..

 

Banded Wheels?

 

Nothing to boy racer looking though.

Posted

What width are the wheels?I think Saabs (actual ones) had 3.5" rims and could wear 185/65x15 tyres without looking too silly.

Posted

Banded Wheels?

 

Nothing to boy racer looking though.

 

 

I'd rather not if I can avoid it - anything over 155 would be an improvement, but I want to keep it stock looking.

 

Plus additional cost and time to make them.

 

 

What width are the wheels?I think Saabs (actual ones) had 3.5" rims and could wear 185/65x15 tyres without looking too silly.

Ok, I'll try to find out the rim width

Posted

I've been advised that the rim width is 5.5j - so a 185 should be doable..but 195/65/15 seems to be pretty much spot on for rolling Radius.

Posted

Not sure if this is the right thread for this question but... I'm working in Swansea on 18/19 September and need somewhere to stay overnight.

Can any S Wales shiters recommend a hotel in or around Swansea with really secure parking? Hoping to take my prize K-series powered shite - the Caterham. So for obvious reasons I'm not too keen on leaving it in the near-by PCP :)

Posted

Any verdict on whether the tools you get like a press to remove the CV joint in situ are any good?

Posted

Any verdict on whether the tools you get like a press to remove the CV joint in situ are any good?

For a lot of cars you can buy a new driveshaft for buttons from J&R.
  • Like 2
Posted

Yeah I know, just trying to save the extra fuck about of topping the gearbox oil up afterwards.

  • Like 1
Posted

Put it this way I dont have one and have never needed one. Either knock off the joint with a good copper hammer or release the snap ring inside.

Posted

Last time I did one I twatted the wing on the back swing getting the fucker off. Might well just me being a cack handed idiot.

Posted

Put it this way I dont have one and have never needed one. Either knock off the joint with a good copper hammer or release the snap ring inside.

 

Can you recommend a good pair of pliers for releasing the snap ring? I tried with circlip pliers but they didn't grip well enough.

Posted

Those smaller type ones are better I think to release it. It’s mostly a Ford I’m working on anyway so it’s the slip ring type that twats off. Or if you’ve the puller, pulls off.

 

Appreciate it’s simpler to swap the driveshaft but I’m tight and I’m trying to avoid the mess of the gearbox oil pissing out and topping it up.

 

I don’t know how J&R do it for the money, a complete new shaft for mine was £27 and just the joint and the boot something like £15 delivered. The stretch boot kits are cheap as well only about a fiver, it’s a wonder why people fuck about with those Bailcast sticky boots.

Posted

Good mole grips on the driveshaft and tuck them behind the strut or chassis leg to hold the shaft in while you give it a clout

  • Like 1
Posted

Just had a Bluetooth obd doobrie delivered from the bay of e. Looking for recommendations for the best free android apps...

 

Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk

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