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Posted

MOT due on 75, believe they check tow bar electrics now?

Mine may* not be fully functional. Thinking of removing ball and electric socket, can't fail on the socket then........can it?

Think it needs a new black box for canbus crap. Will fix it when/if I have a new mot. 

Posted

Think they only check tow bar electrics if its the 13 pin euroshite one as with the old UK one you could virtually wire it as you wanted.

Posted

Possibly the easiest rear shoe set up to adjust

 

Maybe, but I'm a cack handed bodger :)

Posted

Think they only check tow bar electrics if its the 13 pin euroshite one as with the old UK one you could virtually wire it as you wanted.

 

Ah mines a 7.

Well about 2 or 3 really.

Posted

Apart from compressing the springs how hard is it to change the suspension on your drive?

Posted

So excluding weather conditions and weather it's inside or out. Is anything special needed tool wise or anything like that or is it just a case of undo everything?

Posted

So excluding weather conditions and weather it's inside or out. Is anything special needed tool wise or anything like that or is it just a case of undo everything?

Depends on the car - mercs usually need special compressors.

 

Another top tip is slacken but do not remove the topmounts bolt with the car on the ground - the load stops the damper Rod spinning.

 

I assume the car in question has McPherson struts?

Posted

 

Thanks for that Eddie, I did try wading through it all without success.

Mines all secure and looks the part, but is 7 pin. I'll leave it as is. Can't see the point fixing it if it's going to the bridge!

May well pass, it did last year, eventually.

Posted

Can anyone recommend a place close to Southampton docks where a slap up breakfast can be purchased on a Sunday morning?Meeting ChodWeaver Jr #1 for breakfast and a fry up is the order of the day...

  • Like 1
Posted

There's a Spoons fairly near the cruise ship terminal. Had a mixed grill there with my missus when I took her down for the day to see my old stomping grounds.

Posted

Thanks for that Eddie, I did try wading through it all without success.

Mines all secure and looks the part, but is 7 pin. I'll leave it as is.

As you can see, they don't check wiring for function, but they should check if it's absolutely hanging.

Posted

Is there an easy/known engine transplant that can be done to a dolomite ? i.e. moar powerrrrrr 

Posted

Is there an easy/known engine transplant that can be done to a dolomite ? i.e. moar powerrrrrr 

 

TR7 ?

Posted

TR7 ?

mx5?

Posted

Me and hooli have fitted a relay in the headlight circuit on the trike and another relay in the main beam circuit. Now the small issue is when I put main beam on the dips stay in too. Is there any way of wiring it to turn off dips when main are on? Cheers

Posted

Check the switch, feed to low beam relay should be cut when main is on.

Normally unless that's a Reliant quirk.

Posted

I thought that the dips always stayed on with the main? I don't recall ever seeing a car where they turn off.

Guest Hooli
Posted

Me and hooli have fitted a relay in the headlight circuit on the trike and another relay in the main beam circuit. Now the small issue is when I put main beam on the dips stay in too. Is there any way of wiring it to turn off dips when main are on? Cheers

 

Yes mate, like I said at the time we didn't have the correct switch so I couldn't wire it properly. Remember those bloody stupidly expensive switches from that bike shop? We need an on/on toggle (I think that's the term) so it either connects the power to the dipped or the main circuit.

Guest Hooli
Posted

Me and hooli have fitted a relay in the headlight circuit on the trike and another relay in the main beam circuit. Now the small issue is when I put main beam on the dips stay in too. Is there any way of wiring it to turn off dips when main are on? Cheers

 

Found one at a sensible price https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-Miniature-Toggle-Switch-Waterproof-Cover-ON-OFF-ON-ON-ON-OFF-ON/401460086406?hash=item5d78e2c686%3Am%3AmmKEmE-xREc1YSsYtFQ2wsw&var=671123523165&_sacat=0&_nkw=on-on+switch+waterproof&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR10.TRC0.A0.H0.Xon-on+switch+waterproof.TRS0

 

Chose these options -

 

post-20217-0-45829000-1532170049_thumb.jpg

 

Then it'll be simple enough to swap out that black toggle switch for this & get it functioning correctly. It's only a 6amp switch, but as all it's running is relays that's plenty. Only other bits needed is 6" bit of wire & either two female red spade connectors to crimp on or a bit of soldering.

 

It says a 6mm hole, from memory that's the same as the switch used currently.

Posted

I forgot that bit! Yes that's the badger. The wiring is a bit home made but still probably better than Tamworth's finest when new!

Guest Hooli
Posted

Get the switch & I'll pop over to sort the wiring as I can't remember exactly what is there to tell you what to do from here.

Posted

This is purely out out if interest and nothing to do with me. But.

A friend has just bought a BMW Z3 sight unseen on eBay with the intention of turning it into an AC Cobra replica using the Kobra kit. (Yes, I know....)

He says the body has plenty of rust scabs and looks a bit shit but 'hopes' it is structurally sound. Hmmm.

Have no experience of these things so is he in for a world of pain potentially? Are they known for disintegration?

It is a fairly early 2.2 I believe.

Posted

I have a replacement PAS pressure switch for my Mondeo (used but supposedly known good). I sealed it in with PFTE. However, as with the old one it is leaking straight through the electrical connector (not where it joins with the PAS pipe) as in the 3rd pic  :-(. Any ideas please?

 

I really wish I hadn't changed the fluid!

 

post-20084-0-03780200-1532191644_thumb.jpg

post-20084-0-85739700-1532191657_thumb.jpg

post-20084-0-89635200-1532191671_thumb.jpg

Guest Hooli
Posted

Can't help on common suspects but spray a bush with WD40 & see if it stops, you'll find which one it is soon enough.

  • Like 1
Posted

This is purely out out if interest and nothing to do with me. But.

A friend has just bought a BMW Z3 sight unseen on eBay with the intention of turning it into an AC Cobra replica using the Kobra kit. (Yes, I know....)

He says the body has plenty of rust scabs and looks a bit shit but 'hopes' it is structurally sound. Hmmm.

Have no experience of these things so is he in for a world of pain potentially? Are they known for disintegration?

It is a fairly early 2.2 I believe.

I have a 2.8 2000 i've the used the last 6 years and if seems good still despite never garaged. Only bit on mine underneath showing at all is the floor edge where meets the sills and that is still at the converter and paint stage. The sills you can see are bolt on, the real structure is underneath them and very substantial.

They are made in US and rust isn't usually much of a problem. 2.2 makes it a fairly late one. All the panels including the rear wings and sills are bolt on.

  • Like 1
Posted

This is purely out out if interest and nothing to do with me. But.

A friend has just bought a BMW Z3 sight unseen on eBay with the intention of turning it into an AC Cobra replica using the Kobra kit. (Yes, I know....)

He says the body has plenty of rust scabs and looks a bit shit but 'hopes' it is structurally sound. Hmmm.

Have no experience of these things so is he in for a world of pain potentially? Are they known for disintegration?

It is a fairly early 2.2 I believe.

Surely once he's chopped off all the outer skin it's structural integrity will be questionable anyway?

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