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Posted

checked the gearbox oil level for the first time today.

 

post-19553-0-11419800-1507243106_thumb.jpg

 

I dipped it 3 or 4 times. It is definitely at that level.

 

It's done over 20K in my ownership and god knows how long before, so clearly it's not about to explode.

 

should I use this as an excuse to finally buy a pela and just suck some out or should I just leave well alone on the basis of if it ain't broke...

Posted

What car+box? Guessing auto? Does the fluid temp match correctly for measuring it off that marker?

Posted

Guess thats checked after being run too? If i check mine when still quite warm but been stood it reads higher. To check mine it says to go for a short drive so runs through gears.

Posted

I have vibration problem with my 307, once you get above 65 you get a pulsing vibration, if feels like the front wheels aren't balanced as the steering wheel shakes. However this comes and goes once every five seconds, so if you let go of the wheel and watch it you can actually see it start to shake then stop then shake again, every five seconds. I tried taking it out of gear and coasting but it still does the same thing.

 

Anyone know what it might be?

Posted

checked the gearbox oil level for the first time today.

 

attachicon.gifDSC_0431.JPG

 

I dipped it 3 or 4 times. It is definitely at that level.

 

It's done over 20K in my ownership and god knows how long before, so clearly it's not about to explode.

 

should I use this as an excuse to finally buy a pela and just suck some out or should I just leave well alone on the basis of if it ain't broke...

 

My volvo did something similar when you tried to read the gearbox level, the first time you removed the dipstick you would get a proper reading after that it would appear to be overfilled. I thought it might be something to do with fluid getting pulled up the dipstick tube as you remove the dipstick and then coating the dipstick on further readings.  Is the first reading high as well?

Posted

Checking gearbox oil on the BGD is a nightmare: it has to have done 20 miles... exactly before it will give an accurate reading. However, if you start it and let it idle from cold and dip it then, the oil level is correct (doing it properly) if the level on the stick is on or about the 'min' level. This was told to me by the specialist and I tried it and he was right.

 

Apparently ATF swells/grows/gets bigger at higher temps but to high and it froths and gives a false reading.

Posted

It's a v70 tdi auto.

Reading was taken after a motorway run and morning of driving, so it was nice and warm. Car had been sat for maybe an hour.

 

Had considered it was slime put on by the dipstick tube but the reading was the same level on both sides of it, repeatably.

 

Fairly sure it's a true reading.

 

Will measure twice though before doing anything.been here before.

 

Thanks

Posted

 

I have vibration problem with my 307, once you get above 65 you get a pulsing vibration, if feels like the front wheels aren't balanced as the steering wheel shakes. However this comes and goes once every five seconds, so if you let go of the wheel and watch it you can actually see it start to shake then stop then shake again, every five seconds. I tried taking it out of gear and coasting but it still does the same thing.

 

Anyone know what it might be?

 

 

If two wheels are out of balance, and the rolling circumference is not exactly the same, the out of balance forces could add and then cancel as the wheels go in and out of phase with each other (every 5 seconds). Especially noticeable if they are the front wheels. I remember this effect on my wife's Civic. New set of tyres fixed it.

Posted

It's a v70 tdi auto.

Reading was taken after a motorway run and morning of driving, so it was nice and warm. Car had been sat for maybe an hour.

 

Had considered it was slime put on by the dipstick tube but the reading was the same level on both sides of it, repeatably.

 

Fairly sure it's a true reading.

 

Will measure twice though before doing anything.been here before.

 

Thanks

 

Every auto I've known has to be checked with the engine running & having just gone through the gears, pausing in D & R for 15secs or so. Then straight to P & dip while still running, with the gearbox at temp of course.

Posted

My Mondeo Mk3 Auto box (C4DE) always reads way up the stick if it has not been run for a few days. I reckon the ATF drains out of the torque convertor and solenoids. Has to be checked when hot after a twenty mile run, then the level is at the correct mark on the stick. 169k miles and the box still works as it should, no hesitation, clonks, slips or flares.

Posted

ive heard they make a nasty noise if the uneducated try and move to park while the car is still moving  

I imaging it would smash hell out of the pawl

 

Though dont most autos now require you to have your foot brake on before you do such a thing?, meaning youll be stopped anyway.

Posted

My dad got a "Inspection may be dangerous or cause damage" due to "vehicle emits excessive smoke when testing". It's a petrol Mondeo that did about 250 miles per year for the last 2 years. What to do with it? Italian tune would solve the problem? The MOT is still valid for a bit more than a week. Unfortunatelly I'm not there to see with my own eyes what's the problem, and he thinks it should be WBAC'd or scrapped, and he's looking for another Mk3 Mondeo.

Posted

Thank you, so it's a good scrap candidate then.

Posted

If a Polo mk2 comes up on Cazana as 'POLO CFE' is it a Formel E?

Posted

My dad got a "Inspection may be dangerous or cause damage" due to "vehicle emits excessive smoke when testing". It's a petrol Mondeo that did about 250 miles per year for the last 2 years. What to do with it? Italian tune would solve the problem? The MOT is still valid for a bit more than a week. Unfortunatelly I'm not there to see with my own eyes what's the problem, and he thinks it should be WBAC'd or scrapped, and he's looking for another Mk3 Mondeo.

Is it a 1.8? The oil control rings are goosed probably. Usually accompanied by dense blue smoke.

  • Like 1
Posted

My dad got a "Inspection may be dangerous or cause damage" due to "vehicle emits excessive smoke when testing". It's a petrol Mondeo that did about 250 miles per year for the last 2 years. What to do with it? Italian tune would solve the problem? The MOT is still valid for a bit more than a week. Unfortunatelly I'm not there to see with my own eyes what's the problem, and he thinks it should be WBAC'd or scrapped, and he's looking for another Mk3 Mondeo.

Is it a 2l zetec?

Posted

Can you leave redex in the cylinder over night to help loosen stuck rings? I seem to remember reading it somewhere...

Posted

You could but I bet there's much better stuff to use. It'd probably just seep past the rings anyway and you don't really want it in your engine oil.

 

I'd just use a load of penetrating oil (plusgas etc) as this will soften anything gummy, then a quick glug of normal engine oil to lubricate the bore once you're done.

Posted

To be honest the petrol is probably just stale and nasty which is why it's smoking. £20 of super unleaded and a decent run to get it up to normal temperature would probably sort it out. It's not been misfuelled with a fivers worth of diesel or something has it?

Posted

Having tried all the above on a smokey mazda 6 I can confirm it's all a waste of time .

Posted

Maybe but if the next step is the scrapyard then it's probably worth doing it as a final roll of the dice.

Posted

If you fancy a gamble chuck a tin of Wynns Stop Smoke in. You’ve lost a fiver if it fails. Failing that take it somewhere the tester will be prepared to stick whatever’s in the yard that he knows will pass emissions through in its place.

Posted

A friend asked me to look at a 12 year old Citroen van today, just bought and needs to get it running to extract from the guys driveway where it's sat for ages, runs on easy start but that's all. I did warn him I'm 20 years out of date.

So I went along for the sneer, fuck me what an eye opener, I don't know what Citroens engine designers have been playing at since 1985, but I'd hazard a guess at absolutely nothing  other than frantically wanking themselves right down to the potato water, probably all sharing the same bucket, then sneaking a look at petrol injection and copying half of it over. This fucker of a van, don't know what model, sort of Transit like, has an in tank electric pump, airflow meter, a fucking great ECU, sensors all over the shop and electric injectors. Couldn't get it to run surprise, surprise, fuel coming out when I cracked off an injector union, so maybe they're not being triggered, had a poke around for dodgy fuses, connections or dodgy earths, found nowt so told my friend he needs to get one of those code reader things on it, maybe there's a fucked crank sensor or suchlike somewhere?. Silly question, could this be some kind of an immobiliser fault needing a recode after the battery's been flat?

  • Like 1
Posted

Is a red light flashing on the dashboard?

Posted

No, I did look around for a red light, did notice a funny orange padlock over something symbol on the left of speedo that went out while cranking. I think my pal has a shed for his garden. A shed with cupholders.

Posted

Orange padlock on vectra c was immobiliser fault. Maybe its the same?

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