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Posted

In 'the driven man' the Rowan Atkinson car doc from 1990/1, was Roderick the posh crazy minicab driver a total set up??

 

Posted

Front brake calliper on the Santa Fe has one siezed piston. When I say siezed, I mean that while it will push out using the brake pedal, it won't fully retract. Think I've knackered my braking winding in tool trying to push the piston in. The pad has worn at an angle as it is a twin pot.

 

Question is, is it worth trying to fix this with a new piston and seal kit. It would certainly be much cheaper than a new caliper.

Will I have to ream out the cylinder and is it likely I'll end up with brake fluid pishing out and a trail of Mother Theresas in my wake?

Posted

This is probably a daft question?.

 

A conversation I had earlier with someone.

 

WHen driving as you usually do, do you depress the clutch pedal all the way to the floor when you need to change gear? or do you do it to the point in the pedal where the clutch is no longer engaged?

 

 

Posted

Just press it all the way. Removes any uncertainty and won't harm anything...

  • Like 2
Posted

This is probably a daft question?. . .

 

Maybe put it in the Stupid Question Amnesty thread then.

Posted

Maybe put it in the Stupid Question Amnesty thread then.

Yes, good point forgot about that thread!

Posted

If you need to floor the clutch it isn't engaging properly, 3/4 I'd say from rest and 2/3 while driving should be sufficient.

  • Like 1
Posted

If you need to floor the clutch it isn't engaging properly, 3/4 I'd say from rest and 2/3 while driving should be sufficient.

Ive often thought this, was just a discussion I was having - I was in the car with a colleague and every time he changed gear foot was to the floor. How he was taught I guess

Posted

Pump it out till it falls out & have a look. It's often just corrosion behind a seal that pushes the seal out till it jams the piston.

Posted

 Hi, You press the clutch to disengage the drive so you can change gear, so as far as is necessary is sufficient.

 

 Colin

  • Like 2
Posted

If you imported an electric car from, say, Japan, would it have these the right errr 'connectors' to work on the UK grid?

Posted

Travel plug? :D

 

 

 

Good question though, one I've never seen asked before either. Would a leccy car here even be chargable in frogshire?

  • Like 2
Posted

If an auto's parked on a slight slope (in 'P' obv) without the handbrake on, will it knacker the 'box in short order, as Fatha_Duke used to warn me?

Posted

Nah it's fine. The parking pawl is a pretty tough thing. The yanks use P all the time rather than the handbrake.

 

Only thing is it does require quite a bit of force if the pawl is under tension.

 

An example of a parking pawl that locks the drivetrain:

Parking_Pawl.jpg

  • Like 3
Posted

10/10 for diagrams. my understanding of automatic gearboxes is now vastly improved. Its only 'mostly' magic now

  • Like 3
Posted

However some boxes are quite prone to snapping the pawl if hit when parked in P, using the handbrake helps protect them.

Posted

ive heard they make a nasty noise if the uneducated try and move to park while the car is still moving  

Posted

If you imported an electric car from, say, Japan, would it have these the right errr 'connectors' to work on the UK grid?

No. Japanese electricity goes from side to side.*

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*Not really; the plug may need swapping, although it's possible that cars with high power charging may have a standard IEC round plug on.

Posted

Front brake calliper on the Santa Fe has one siezed piston. When I say siezed, I mean that while it will push out using the brake pedal, it won't fully retract. Think I've knackered my braking winding in tool trying to push the piston in. The pad has worn at an angle as it is a twin pot.

 

Question is, is it worth trying to fix this with a new piston and seal kit. It would certainly be much cheaper than a new caliper.

Will I have to ream out the cylinder and is it likely I'll end up with brake fluid pishing out and a trail of Mother Theresas in my wake?

 

Sounds more like the rubber line that goes to the caliper is full of gunk. 

 

Clamp the rubber thing that goes to the caliper in question, unscrew it from the caliper and take said caliper apart. If the piston is fine, change both hoses.

Posted

Sounds more like the rubber line that goes to the caliper is full of gunk. 

 

Clamp the rubber thing that goes to the caliper in question, unscrew it from the caliper and take said caliper apart. If the piston is fine, change both hoses.

By "rubber thing" are you referring to the flexi hose? I would have thought both pistons would be equally affected if it was the hose. One piston was seized and needed a fair press on the brake pedal, while the other was clamped, to shift it. A new piston and seal kit should arrive today, so hopefully just a corroded piston.

Posted

Fuel filter on an XUD

 

The four Allen key, simple to change one

 

Car has been down on power so changed filter.

 

However the metal cap on the bottom of the filter had fallen off and didn't come out with the filter, I had to remove it separately.

 

The car is still down on power. Does this mean bits of crap have now gone into the pump? I'm assuming it does as the fuel goes in top of the housing and out the bottom...

Posted

Fuel feed goes in at the bottom of the housing, exits at the top.

Those filter housings are pretty poor especially if you're running on alternative fuels.

The hoses and clips can allow air ingress too.

Posted
somewhatfoolish, on 04 Oct 2017 - 9:53 PM, said:somewhatfoolish, on 04 Oct 2017 - 9:53 PM, said:somewhatfoolish, on 04 Oct 2017 - 9:53 PM, said:

No. Japanese electricity goes from side to side.*

 

 

 

*Not really; the plug may need swapping, although it's possible that cars with high power charging may have a standard IEC round plug on.

 

The Japs *might* use the same type of mains plug as the septics, as this handy chart illustrates - although I'm not convinced it's 100% correct.

 

plugtypes_around_the_world.jpg

 

(... awaits mildly racist comment that they should really use type I...)

Posted

Type A and B start smoking like a beagle at Philip Morris if you try and shove more than 10 amps through them; the world of car charging leads has been filled with wanky proprietary tossbag plugs designed by handless CAD monkeys that live in dungeons and get paid peanuts rather than agree a sensible standard format for everyone to use. The Tesla offering does win on aesthetics though.

 

JDuGus9.jpg

Posted

No, the phone charger approach would be for each car company to make its own power leads with completely unique plugs, then charge you £5000 to install the correct socket at your house, after you've bought the car. Then change the design again, every 2 years, and repeat.

  • Like 3

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