Ask a Shiter

[JeeExEll]

Have noisy auxilliary belt pulley-gubbins in a soon to be recommissioned budget runabout Puggett 206 pez 1.4. Fix or safe to ignore?? Couldn't care less about a wee bit of noise. Belt is tight enough to do the job and not slipping, it's the pulley meccano that's a bit noisy.

 

The 206 is blue.

[scaryoldcortina]

probably the tensioner bearing - easy enough to change but a pita at the roadside in the dark when it seizes up and throws the belt off.

[scdan4]

Over a year ago i had a motorbike nicked. It was uninsured.

 

I've still got the v5 and had to sorn it a few months ago. 

 

How do i tell the dvla i have no idea where it is? just stick it all in an envelope with a covering letter?

[Pillock]

That seems to work with the "you'll never believe this, but....." stories.

I once swapped a car, the guy wrote my details on the V5 but then changed his mind. A year later I get a V5 for it - presume he scrapped it (since it was a basket case 306) and they read the wrong part of the V5. Anyway, I phoned a Welshman and started to explain and he just said "write a letter saying I AM NOT THE OWNER. Put it in capitals so we can't miss it. Send it back with the V5". And lo and behold, sorted.

 

The DVLA aren't bad people, there's just sometimes things that they don't have a checkbox for on a V5.

[Guest Hooli]

What he said, but quote the crime number if you still have it.

[Noel Tidybeard]

.

Talking of flashers  

 

re. A-series Citroen with 3-pin relay ..my indicator tell-tale light flashes just once and then goes back to sleep which the indicators continue to work normally. 

 

Any ideas.? 

 

Thanks.

 

because french!

[Noel Tidybeard]

Over a year ago i had a motorbike nicked. It was uninsured.

 

I've still got the v5 and had to sorn it a few months ago. 

 

How do i tell the dvla i have no idea where it is? just stick it all in an envelope with a covering letter?

 

more or less yes this- the DVLA wont remove you but will "draw a line" under your name as far as reprocusions are concerned but it will still technically be in your name

[Brodders]

Please be advised that this is a rather long and detailed post.

 

 

Whilst on the A14 this morning, I suddenly lost all heating in the Rover (which was rather inconvenient as a ) it was about -1 degree outside, instead of the toasty 22 I had it set on in the car and b ) it quite possibly a sign that I was going to break down on the outside lane of a busy dual carriageway during a sub zero rush hour, causing most of Mid-Suffolk's commuters a great deal of bother).

 

Fortunately, it didn't break down. However, I noticed some very odd things. Although the heating system failed, the temperature gauge stayed dead in the middle, not dropping off as it would if the thermostat had jammed open, or going into the red as it would if a hose had burst.

 

The weirdest thing was the noise the car made in front of the drivers footwall. It sounded a lot like a scratching sound which a small animal would make if it were trapped in there. However, when I pulled over I had a quick look under the bonnet and under the car and couldn't see anything out of the ordinary at all.

 

After a bit of research, it seems that it is possible that some gunk has built up in the heater matrix or there is an airlock in the cooling system, but I am not sure how something like this would cause the sounds to be made. Does anyone know what could be going on or what to do about it?

[Guest Hooli]

The sounds could be bubbles or 'lumps' of water getting past the blockage - much like the noises a kettle makes as it boils.

 

 

I'd disconnect the heater hoses & back flush the matrix to wash the crud out.

[Bfg]

Over a year ago i had a motorbike nicked. It was uninsured.

 

I've still got the v5 and had to sorn it a few months ago. 

 

How do i tell the dvla i have no idea where it is? just stick it all in an envelope with a covering letter?

 

Just SORN it,  ....then sell the V5 on ebay..     who knows, it might get reunited with your bike !

[Eddie Honda]

Talking of flashers  

 

re. A-series Citroen with 3-pin relay ..my indicator tell-tale light flashes just once and then goes back to sleep which the indicators continue to work normally. 

 

Any ideas.? 

 

Thanks.

Either the flasher unit is broken, or the flasher unit is the incorrect one. 3-pin flasher units aren't all created the same.

 

My GS had 3 terminals ( + / R / C ) and paper card attached with terminal colours.

 

Black ( + ) = 49 = Supply

Green ( R ) = C = Dash Tell-tale / warning lamp

Red ( C ) = 49a = Indicator Switch

 

I'm guessing the Ami is the same? If it is, get a four pin electronic flasher unit and wire it up properly. I wrote about six years ago here:

 

http://www.citroencarclub.org.uk/drupal/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=44248

 

Follow the Flickr notes on dealing with the fourth pin.

[DodgeRover]

Over a year ago i had a motorbike nicked. It was uninsured.

 

I've still got the v5 and had to sorn it a few months ago.

 

How do i tell the dvla i have no idea where it is? just stick it all in an envelope with a covering letter?

Write to them explaining you are no longer in possession but are still the legal owner should it turn up at some point.

[Skizzer]

Apparently Range Rover Classics have a heated driver's door lock.  Not sure whether it works exactly.

 

EFA.

 

 

 

(Comedy, it's all in the timing, right?)

[Brodders]

The sounds could be bubbles or 'lumps' of water getting past the blockage - much like the noises a kettle makes as it boils.

 

 

I'd disconnect the heater hoses & back flush the matrix to wash the crud out.

Thanks, hopefully I will be able to get something sorted out, but it does look like a very hands on job. I just hope it is just a case of lime scale from the water here rather than anything a previous owner may have put in to cure a leak.

[LessThanEqual]

I must be going mad because I like the look of these Hoondy Coops. Are they any good in 1.6 form? A mint one can be had for about £1500 and a shit one for half that. Would be replacing an EML happy Ibiza 1.9 TDI 100ps. Would have a Civic or Celica instead but Civic 2 doors are rare or ragged, and Celicas are too much to insure.

[320touring]

2.0 is the pick of the bunch for the Hyundai coops. 1.6 slower than a week in the jail, 2.7v6 (I think it was in that shape?) Drinks like Ollie reed with very little improvement in performance over the 2.0

[Snipes]

I'd be looking at 2.0s too, if I were in the market for one. I imagine the 1.6 to be fairly dismal.

[Guest Hooli]

Thanks, hopefully I will be able to get something sorted out, but it does look like a very hands on job. I just hope it is just a case of lime scale from the water here rather than anything a previous owner may have put in to cure a leak.

 

I'd do it under the bonnet to make life easier. Whatever is in there got down the pipe so hopefully will go back when flushed the other way.

[gordonbennet]

How do you stop alloy corrosion? The expensively repaired alloy doors/bonnet/bootlid on the dollop are mostly fine but I noticed three small blebs on the tops of the doors again. I have lifted seals and sprayed in Waxoyl (twice), will this stop it/halt it/slow it down?

 

If not, what will? I have got to stop spending cos skint.

 

You can do better than Waxoyl these days, for that type of protection there is Dinitrol, Rexel, and the make i now use for intensive rustproofing, Bilt Hamber, IMHO waxoyl has seen its day.

 

We have unpainted alloy wheels fitted to our tanker lorries for weight saving, most are standard alloy and corrode to a certain degree but then stop.

 

Some of the lorries are fitted with Staybrite Alcoa Alloys, these are treated somehow and the polished shiny surface is near enough for life, doesn't matter how many tons of salt or shit the things see a quick rinse over and they come up like new every time, now you'd think that on a vehicle as expensive as yours that they could have similarly treated the body when it was made then painted over it, would last as long as a stainless steel body, near enough for ever with a bit of care.

 

I have no idea what the treatment involved is mind to make alloy Staybrite.

[PhillipM]

Funny thing is that the old alloy number plates always seemed to survive well - you'd think they were made of cheap as chips metal !?

They are - almost pure aluminium, which with no alloying elements is very soft and weak. But also exception at not corroding as it's generally the high-alloy stronger flavours that corrode the worst. Kinda the opposite of steel where the high alloy steels tend* to corrode slower.

 

If you get into aircraft alloys, or as mentioned above, alcoa al-clads, then they generally have a structural high-alloy aluminium core and then the surface is layered with a very thin skin of pure aluminium to help fight corrosion - they weld the two together with explosives between and above them, quite fun to watch!

 I believe the wheels are zincate then electroless nickel plated though.

 

[LessThanEqual]

2.0 is the pick of the bunch for the Hyundai coops. 1.6 slower than a week in the jail, 2.7v6 (I think it was in that shape?) Drinks like Ollie reed with very little improvement in performance over the 2.0

 

I'd be looking at 2.0s too, if I were in the market for one. I imagine the 1.6 to be fairly dismal.

I thought that would be the case. Looking into it the SIII 2.0 isn't that bad on insurance so that might be a good choice. Thanks guys.

[tooSavvy]

Explosive/Cold welding.....

 

Been on the telly, that.

 

 

TS

[Lacquer Peel]

I'm looking for a boost gauge that doesn't look "Fast and Furious" and cost the earth. Any ideas beyond my favourite so far? If anyone has an inoffensive boost gauge not doing anything I'll buy it.

 

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/gauges/mocal-turbo-boost-mechanical-gauge

[steveo3002]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/52mm-Black-Face-Clear-Lens-Mechanical-Turbo-Boost-Pressure-Gauge-Kit-Bar-/222380763254?hash=item33c6ed2876:m:mxWUS6dvqggYOI2AdiBbIJg

 

best cheap oem looking one i could find when looking...went with a vdo after all though

[Norbert]

More heating woes:-

 

Mrs_N's StreetKa normally has a toasty warm heater, but unfortunately this recent drop in temperatures has highlighted an odd issue - it will only blow heated air once the engine has been off and on once warm, meaning the journey routine is now:

 

1) start engine

2) let engine get warm either by idling or driving it

3) swear at freezing cold blast of air from vents

4) Cycle ignition (engine off/on) - this can be done leisurely or quickly at the lights or something

5) Enjoy warm zephyr now issuing from vents

 

Is this the infamous heater control valve that Kas and anything else that uses it (Fiesta, Transit etc) suffer from? Or could it be an air lock in the system that the off-on cycle shifts? The car needed a new header tank in December so the cooling system has been disturbed recently.

 

Thanks!

[Snipes]

Try unplugging the heater valve (the electric plug I mean, not the pipe work).

[AlabamaShrimp]

I've gone blank (nothing different there) what's the name of the black plastic thing in front wings to stop muck gathering?

[M'coli]

Wheelarch liner?

[Bfg]

I've gone blank (nothing different there) what's the name of the black plastic thing in front wings to stop muck gathering?

 

a dummy policeman ?

[Guest Hooli]

I've gone blank (nothing different there) what's the name of the black plastic thing in front wings to stop muck gathering?

 

Tyre