Ask a Shiter

[Eddie Honda]

Talking of flashers  

 

re. A-series Citroen with 3-pin relay ..my indicator tell-tale light flashes just once and then goes back to sleep which the indicators continue to work normally. 

 

Any ideas.? 

 

Thanks.

Either the flasher unit is broken, or the flasher unit is the incorrect one. 3-pin flasher units aren't all created the same.

 

My GS had 3 terminals ( + / R / C ) and paper card attached with terminal colours.

 

Black ( + ) = 49 = Supply

Green ( R ) = C = Dash Tell-tale / warning lamp

Red ( C ) = 49a = Indicator Switch

 

I'm guessing the Ami is the same? If it is, get a four pin electronic flasher unit and wire it up properly. I wrote about six years ago here:

 

http://www.citroencarclub.org.uk/drupal/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=44248

 

Follow the Flickr notes on dealing with the fourth pin.

[DodgeRover]

Over a year ago i had a motorbike nicked. It was uninsured.

 

I've still got the v5 and had to sorn it a few months ago.

 

How do i tell the dvla i have no idea where it is? just stick it all in an envelope with a covering letter?

Write to them explaining you are no longer in possession but are still the legal owner should it turn up at some point.

[Skizzer]

Apparently Range Rover Classics have a heated driver's door lock.  Not sure whether it works exactly.

 

EFA.

 

 

 

(Comedy, it's all in the timing, right?)

[Brodders]

The sounds could be bubbles or 'lumps' of water getting past the blockage - much like the noises a kettle makes as it boils.

 

 

I'd disconnect the heater hoses & back flush the matrix to wash the crud out.

Thanks, hopefully I will be able to get something sorted out, but it does look like a very hands on job. I just hope it is just a case of lime scale from the water here rather than anything a previous owner may have put in to cure a leak.

[LessThanEqual]

I must be going mad because I like the look of these Hoondy Coops. Are they any good in 1.6 form? A mint one can be had for about £1500 and a shit one for half that. Would be replacing an EML happy Ibiza 1.9 TDI 100ps. Would have a Civic or Celica instead but Civic 2 doors are rare or ragged, and Celicas are too much to insure.

[320touring]

2.0 is the pick of the bunch for the Hyundai coops. 1.6 slower than a week in the jail, 2.7v6 (I think it was in that shape?) Drinks like Ollie reed with very little improvement in performance over the 2.0

[Snipes]

I'd be looking at 2.0s too, if I were in the market for one. I imagine the 1.6 to be fairly dismal.

[Guest Hooli]

Thanks, hopefully I will be able to get something sorted out, but it does look like a very hands on job. I just hope it is just a case of lime scale from the water here rather than anything a previous owner may have put in to cure a leak.

 

I'd do it under the bonnet to make life easier. Whatever is in there got down the pipe so hopefully will go back when flushed the other way.

[gordonbennet]

How do you stop alloy corrosion? The expensively repaired alloy doors/bonnet/bootlid on the dollop are mostly fine but I noticed three small blebs on the tops of the doors again. I have lifted seals and sprayed in Waxoyl (twice), will this stop it/halt it/slow it down?

 

If not, what will? I have got to stop spending cos skint.

 

You can do better than Waxoyl these days, for that type of protection there is Dinitrol, Rexel, and the make i now use for intensive rustproofing, Bilt Hamber, IMHO waxoyl has seen its day.

 

We have unpainted alloy wheels fitted to our tanker lorries for weight saving, most are standard alloy and corrode to a certain degree but then stop.

 

Some of the lorries are fitted with Staybrite Alcoa Alloys, these are treated somehow and the polished shiny surface is near enough for life, doesn't matter how many tons of salt or shit the things see a quick rinse over and they come up like new every time, now you'd think that on a vehicle as expensive as yours that they could have similarly treated the body when it was made then painted over it, would last as long as a stainless steel body, near enough for ever with a bit of care.

 

I have no idea what the treatment involved is mind to make alloy Staybrite.

[PhillipM]

Funny thing is that the old alloy number plates always seemed to survive well - you'd think they were made of cheap as chips metal !?

They are - almost pure aluminium, which with no alloying elements is very soft and weak. But also exception at not corroding as it's generally the high-alloy stronger flavours that corrode the worst. Kinda the opposite of steel where the high alloy steels tend* to corrode slower.

 

If you get into aircraft alloys, or as mentioned above, alcoa al-clads, then they generally have a structural high-alloy aluminium core and then the surface is layered with a very thin skin of pure aluminium to help fight corrosion - they weld the two together with explosives between and above them, quite fun to watch!

 I believe the wheels are zincate then electroless nickel plated though.

 

[LessThanEqual]

2.0 is the pick of the bunch for the Hyundai coops. 1.6 slower than a week in the jail, 2.7v6 (I think it was in that shape?) Drinks like Ollie reed with very little improvement in performance over the 2.0

 

I'd be looking at 2.0s too, if I were in the market for one. I imagine the 1.6 to be fairly dismal.

I thought that would be the case. Looking into it the SIII 2.0 isn't that bad on insurance so that might be a good choice. Thanks guys.

[tooSavvy]

Explosive/Cold welding.....

 

Been on the telly, that.

 

 

TS

[Lacquer Peel]

I'm looking for a boost gauge that doesn't look "Fast and Furious" and cost the earth. Any ideas beyond my favourite so far? If anyone has an inoffensive boost gauge not doing anything I'll buy it.

 

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/gauges/mocal-turbo-boost-mechanical-gauge

[steveo3002]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/52mm-Black-Face-Clear-Lens-Mechanical-Turbo-Boost-Pressure-Gauge-Kit-Bar-/222380763254?hash=item33c6ed2876:m:mxWUS6dvqggYOI2AdiBbIJg

 

best cheap oem looking one i could find when looking...went with a vdo after all though

[Norbert]

More heating woes:-

 

Mrs_N's StreetKa normally has a toasty warm heater, but unfortunately this recent drop in temperatures has highlighted an odd issue - it will only blow heated air once the engine has been off and on once warm, meaning the journey routine is now:

 

1) start engine

2) let engine get warm either by idling or driving it

3) swear at freezing cold blast of air from vents

4) Cycle ignition (engine off/on) - this can be done leisurely or quickly at the lights or something

5) Enjoy warm zephyr now issuing from vents

 

Is this the infamous heater control valve that Kas and anything else that uses it (Fiesta, Transit etc) suffer from? Or could it be an air lock in the system that the off-on cycle shifts? The car needed a new header tank in December so the cooling system has been disturbed recently.

 

Thanks!

[Snipes]

Try unplugging the heater valve (the electric plug I mean, not the pipe work).

[AlabamaShrimp]

I've gone blank (nothing different there) what's the name of the black plastic thing in front wings to stop muck gathering?

[M'coli]

Wheelarch liner?

[Bfg]

I've gone blank (nothing different there) what's the name of the black plastic thing in front wings to stop muck gathering?

 

a dummy policeman ?

[Guest Hooli]

I've gone blank (nothing different there) what's the name of the black plastic thing in front wings to stop muck gathering?

 

Tyre

[AlabamaShrimp]

Wheelarch liner?

That's is it!

[Danblez]

Calling all welding gods......I have bought a decent Earth clamp for my little Clarke welder and think it would probably be better with a beefier earth lead. What size cable would be best and I presume it shouldn't be too long either?

[Bfg]

I used to have a Clark 150 mini-mig (before I went abroad to work) and likewise changed the earth clamp and lead. It made a terrific difference to have a copper plated clamp of high grip professional quality which did not work loose like the original monkey-metal one.. Similarly the original cable was way too short.  Can't give you specifics but the replacement lead was as thick as a professional quality jump lead, multi-cored and surprisingly flexible. It was about 2m long - so that I could throw / kick it to one side rather than have it under foot all the time.  Did a lot of good work with that little welder.  imo much better than the Sealey I now have.

 

Bfg. 

[DodgeRover]

Oddly I was looking at the earth lead on the professional MIG we have and it's quite thin - about the thickness of a normal core cable I would guess maybe 16mmsq however 35mmsq welding cable is pretty cheap to buy, 70mmsq is about the thickness of a finger

[Craig the Princess]

Is a three stud Saxo rear beam the same as an AX rear beam?

[cobblers]

More or less yeah. brakes and pipes might be different but the actual beam etc is the same

[steveo3002]

have you looked where the other end of the earth is fixed to ?  i thought about doing mine but its crimped directly to the internal gubbins and not sure how i could join on the new bit nicely

[bub2006]

Citroen c15 rear beam. Same as 305 estate? I was advised with my xsara to change the whole beam as something can oval meaning new bearings won't fit anymore and best to just change the lot. Is the situation same on the c15 or can the bearing and bushings be changed? I know it's a time consuming job on both accounts but can be done. Thanks

[DodgyBastard]

Citroen c15 rear beam. Same as 305 estate? I was advised with my xsara to change the whole beam as something can oval meaning new bearings won't fit anymore and best to just change the lot. Is the situation same on the c15 or can the bearing and bushings be changed? I know it's a time consuming job on both accounts but can be done. Thanks

The bearings can be changed, I have a repair kit I'm the back of one of my 305 but my current plan is to swap a complete c15 axle onto my 305.

 

Sent from my F5321 using Tapatalk

[bub2006]

I'm going to look into getting one, mine has a slight knock knee approach!