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Posted

you can try using the ref number on the green slip to notify transfer as though you were the previous keeper, leave off the leading digit and it's the same as the number on the main bit of the v5c.

 

Obviously you aren't supposed to do this, and have to tick a declaration saying you are the keeper, so it's up to you. If you post it in with a v62 the previous keeper will probably get a fixed penalty for not notifying too.

Posted

What are these nubbins for and why? On the headlight lens of the Oldsmobile. Three nipples on each. Is it to do with injection moulding? If so why are they not trimmed off? Not important obv. Just wondering?

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Most likely to locate the headlight lens moulding exactly in the tool that assembles it to the headlamp shell. If it didn't have those features it would be harder to accurately hold it because it is a smooth and awkwardly shaped thing.
  • Like 1
Posted

the three bumps are for alignment - US spec machines clamp to the headight and project a laser or use spirit bubbles where ours stand in front of the car and measure the beam itself.

 

  • Like 3
Posted

9dd7b8fc2d09e8b4241c7b997ef0c745.jpg

 

I nearly talked myself into buying this on the basis of the mileage alone.

 

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According to the advert, it had something like a dozen cambelt changes.

 

Best thing is, the advert was over a year old, so it's passed another MOT since :D

Posted

Had a 412,000 miles Sharan TDi once, I think some others on here have eclipsed that too

Posted

Replace the drop link with a new one unless it's very new - I've never known one to come off without a massive fight

 

Not sure about grease, never have

 

I was expecting both joints to be an utter bitch to remove but both came apart fine once I'd figured out how they worked. In the case of the drop link (which I was interested to see was made of GRP) it was fine once I figured that you stick a 6mm allen key into the stud to hold it. The track rod end bolt was easy to undo but then to get it to seperate I had to give it a few sharp taps with a hammer. It seems to be some sort of press fit + bolt arrangement, a bit like tapered cranks on a bicycle, and you don't grease those. It was 2 months ago that I dismantled it all so my memory is hazy, just wondered if that taper is the actual swivel part of the steering action, in which case I really should grease it.

 

The car's an ex-cop motor and according to the potted history I got with it it had the suspension renewed at 60,000 miles, so it's not as old as the rest of the car.

 

IMO grease threads but not mating faces

 

That was my thinking, don't want to rot the rubber bits. I was more wondering if there was some good reason not to use copper grease on suspension parts, same as you're not supposed to use it on wheel bolts / studs (I always copper grease the centre bore, learned that lesson the hard way...).

Posted

I've had people do work for me that had every qualification under the sun but didn't know shit. On the other hand I've had people who've learnt on the job who knew their onions.

 

 

 

Ah, that'd be a green-grocer then...

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Posted

If I remember right the R8 auto were all Honda 1.6 lumps.

 

HONDA ENGINE

 

I can definitely go for that, we've had a couple already.

Posted

Nope, no legal requirement at all to be qualified in anything, and no guarantee that someone who did C&G light vehicle maintainance remembered/understood any of it anyway.

 

It's why the garage trade is so pot luck tbh.

 

 

 

Yep, visited a few crappy garages in the past..

 

this is more of a fantasy than ever being a reality, not for me may I add, I could do services but not much else!

Posted

Given how some axle stands leave you with the impression the car is about to pirouette in the air before it crushes your head like a burst water melon, who thinks some appropriately cut down railway sleepers would be infinitely safer?

  • Like 3
Posted

Having had the great pleasure of a car falling on me (on my head to be accurate... which explains a lot) I do not recommend the experience one bit. I therefore take (took) every care to use stuff that I was pretty sure would not allow the heap to fall on me and then put other stuff under the car to further make my life safer. My happiest days were when I had the pit.

Posted

Given how some axle stands leave you with the impression the car is about to pirouette in the air before it crushes your head like a burst water melon, who thinks some appropriately cut down railway sleepers would be infinitely safer?

Decent quality wood should be fine, just please don't use bricks or blocks as they can just crumble.

(Whenever I see stuff supported on bricks (on forums and facebook) I let them know but I am not the health and safety police!)

Posted

axle stands plus some wood /spare wheels incase it turns ugly

 

i always put the taken off wheels under where im working with the view it will stop the car hitting the deck if something turns ugly  

  • Like 3
Posted

I think I'm going to invest in some ramps. For some jobs that require a bit of banging, I think they'd offer a bit more stability. I've some heavy duty rubber knocking about, so thinking of lining the base of them with this.

Posted

Update... bought a pair of 2.5 tonne ramps with the extenders so you can go up them in a modern, width is 210mm so should hold the Mondeo satisfactorily I'd hope as they are 205 sections. £37 delivered.

 

I've a few jobs already that I think they'll make life easier (famous last words) such as rustproofing, changing the roll restrictor, oil change etc so we'll see. I feel a bit happier about doing more involved work using them as they're much more stable.

Posted

I've never had any problems greasing threads on TREs. In some cases, like BMWs or IS200s you pretty much have to or they're guaranteed to seize in place. Just don't put too much on. You only need a tiny film; don't get spreading it on there like custard on an apple pie.

Posted

Renault headlight switches on "Big arse" meganes and scenics and whatnot.

Is there some flaw with them them that makes people just turn the front foglights on and not the headlights? Do they have an electrical fault or something?

I reckon a good 50% of the cars I see on my way to and from work have got at least one headlight out and the front fogs on.

Posted

Renault headlight switches on "Big arse" meganes and scenics and whatnot.

Is there some flaw with them them that makes people just turn the front foglights on and not the headlights? Do they have an electrical fault or something?

I reckon a good 50% of the cars I see on my way to and from work have got at least one headlight out and the front fogs on.

No, they're just fucktards. HTH.

 

It IS however a serious pain in the arse to change headlight bulbs on them!

Posted

A friend at work has a 2008-ish Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel of some sort that she uses to tow a horse around. It is very reluctant to start if it's any kind of chilly of a morning, and she and her local backstreet garage are struggling to work out why.

 

I thought battery, but they've tested that and reported it healthy. Someone suggested blocked EGR valve, but that's a post-1986 thing I don't know about. Any ideas? I don't understand diesels so I'm not much help.

Posted

(And before you ask, no, I don't have any pictures of her.)

  • Like 2
Posted

(And before you ask, no, I don't have any pictures of her.)

Do you take us for a bunch of pervs?
Posted

Do you take us for a bunch of pervs?

Yup. Not entirely excluding myself from that, mind.

Posted

You are one of us squire. We all have our vices. Mine is shonky vans and hairy women

Posted

Glow plugs a good suggestion but Anna says...

 

Glow plugs (already replaced)

Battery (already replaced)

Fuel injectors (already reconditioned)

Fuel pump (already replaced)

Head gasket (absolutely no appetite to persist if this goes)

 

She's reduced to looking at disposable Freelander 1s on Autotrader, poor lass.

 

Glow plug relay maybe? Is that a thing?

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