Noel Tidybeard Posted July 24, 2015 Posted July 24, 2015 Sorted it. A local garage kindly supplied me with a big strapping man with a big g strapping hammer. He said it's a common thing and charged me a fiver. Thanks for advice though. May come in handy for the other 3. The vectra alloys have a locking cover and someone put locking wheel nuts on too.thats because the "locking cover" isnt a anti theft thing cos there's only about 6 diferent keysMcGuard are the best ones for a vecturd
scdan4 Posted July 25, 2015 Posted July 25, 2015 2007 ldv maxus van with 137K on it. Likely to explode or not?
twosmoke300 Posted July 25, 2015 Posted July 25, 2015 Engines are a vm unit and pretty good I think . Comedy turbo lag tho . Parts are expensive and the whole thing feels pretty flimsy/ low rent scdan4 1
Station Posted July 25, 2015 Posted July 25, 2015 When you fill the coolant tank right to the top, well over MAX line, what happens to the water? Is this bad?
RayMK Posted July 25, 2015 Posted July 25, 2015 When you fill the coolant tank right to the top, well over MAX line, what happens to the water? Is this bad?Normally there's an overflow pipe that dumps excess coolant on the road. It has been known for the less savvy to think the overflow is a disconnected pipe, so they seal it off. In those circumstances, at least a small pop is in order.
Station Posted July 26, 2015 Posted July 26, 2015 Is there any danger is keeping a batter on charge using a batter charger? I'm worried it may overcharge if it has no facility in the charger.
DSdriver Posted July 26, 2015 Posted July 26, 2015 Do noisy tappets cause any long term damage?To your ears? Probably not.To the engine? It depends how good the case hardening is on the cam followers. If they are modern repro ones for the DS engine the answer is yes. Lacquer Peel 1
DSdriver Posted July 26, 2015 Posted July 26, 2015 Is there any danger is keeping a batter on charge using a batter charger? I'm worried it may overcharge if it has no facility in the charger.An overcharging battery will give off hydrogen gas which is a tad explosive (Google Zeppelin for a good example)Check water level in battery.
scdan4 Posted July 28, 2015 Posted July 28, 2015 How long do spark plugs last? I know you're meant to change them periodically, but having had a string of old sheds its not something i've ever got round to doing. Not done them on the current car for 5 years and 50K, and it still starts, goes and stops without problems.
spike60 Posted July 28, 2015 Posted July 28, 2015 Think 100k recommended change on the last few petrols I've had, 1992 Corvette, 1993 Bmw 540i and a 2000 Z3 2.8 which is currently carting plugs, oil and filters round in the boot waiting for me get my arse in gear and fit them. scdan4 1
The Moog Posted July 30, 2015 Posted July 30, 2015 Is there any way to fit a low fuel light of DTE display in 1997 civic? It doesn't have either and missus moog is someone who only tends to do stuff when lights pop up. Seeing as I am the idiot who will get blamed/ have to get her when broken down, I wondered if I can be proactive
twosmoke300 Posted July 30, 2015 Posted July 30, 2015 It should have a fuel light as std . Also there is a funny device called a fuel gauge on the dash
The Moog Posted July 30, 2015 Posted July 30, 2015 It should have a fuel light as std . Also there is a funny device called a fuel gauge on the dash That may have been pointed out! The gauge below half is pretty erratic so have mentioned only using the top half of tank but is ignored. Never seen it come on so assumed it hasn't got one. I will keep that info to myself then
HH-R Posted July 30, 2015 Posted July 30, 2015 Don't worry, I once "waited until the fuel light came on" in a facelift Rover 25, which doesn't have one. The cough, splutter and stop let me know when it was low well enough, though. tinribs 1
Alan_Green Posted July 30, 2015 Posted July 30, 2015 Set the trip counter each time you fill up and refill after 300 miles or whatever. This is my procedure when running LPGs because there doesn't seem to be such a thing as a reliable LPG fuel gauge. The Moog 1
320touring Posted July 30, 2015 Posted July 30, 2015 Set the trip counter each time you fill up and refill after 300 miles or whatever. This is my procedure when running LPGs because there doesn't seem to be such a thing as a reliable LPG fuel gauge.amen 4green led4green led4green led fucksox The Moog 1
rainagain Posted July 30, 2015 Posted July 30, 2015 Is there any way to fit a low fuel light of DTE display in 1997 civic? It doesn't have either and missus moog is someone who only tends to do stuff when lights pop up. Seeing as I am the idiot who will get blamed/ have to get her when broken down, I wondered if I can be proactivetry something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5v-12v-24v-Voltage-comparator-lm393n-Auto-circuit-modifications-Remote-control-/151411926002?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item2340daa3f2 Feed in the variable voltage output from the fuel level sensor and compare it against a voltage set using a high value pot connected across the power rails put whatever you want on the output e.g. 12" flashing strobe, etc
rainagain Posted July 30, 2015 Posted July 30, 2015 edit that: from reading the auction looks like it has a built in ref voltage generator as well so no need for the pot
willswitchengage Posted July 30, 2015 Posted July 30, 2015 2CV Normal points system Accel 'Harley' coil Engine cut out whilst driving the other day - hasn't started since. Has 12V at the + of the coil and 0V at the negative when the ignition's on. Remove the negative lead from the coil and it reads 12V at the positive but now 8.8V at the negative. What are my electrics trying to tell me?
twosmoke300 Posted July 30, 2015 Posted July 30, 2015 Pointless sarcastic comment removed - it's been a long day myglaren 1
DSdriver Posted July 30, 2015 Posted July 30, 2015 I'm trying to take apart a Ducelier fresh air duct fan. The bolt heads are captive in the plastic casing in hexagonal recesses. As is normal they all came part easily except one where the nut must be more rusty than the others. There was a click of plastic breaking and now the bolt head is turning so I can't get the bugger out. Suggestions please. Also can anyone answer mrs DSdrivers question bout what happened to WD1 to WD39?
twosmoke300 Posted July 30, 2015 Posted July 30, 2015 Sometimes you can use a drill / impact gun to spin it really fast to melt the the plastic a bit then leave it to set and try again DSdriver and Christine 2
scdan4 Posted July 30, 2015 Posted July 30, 2015 They didn't meet the requirements. Mixture no 40 was the one that did. True that. Water Dispellant (formulation) 40. developed for nasa in the space race hence it used to have rockets on the can. Not patented, as then they would have to reveal full formulation. DSdriver 1
meshking Posted July 30, 2015 Posted July 30, 2015 2CV Normal points system Accel 'Harley' coil Engine cut out whilst driving the other day - hasn't started since. Has 12V at the + of the coil and 0V at the negative when the ignition's on. Remove the negative lead from the coil and it reads 12V at the positive but now 8.8V at the negative. What are my electrics trying to tell me?Not entirely sure about the voltages, but I would point finger at the condensor first. Especially if it was running fine then suddenly not. Had a condensor failure a number of times myself over the years. They don't make the ol' points like they used to.
LC Torana Posted July 31, 2015 Posted July 31, 2015 2CV Normal points system Accel 'Harley' coil Engine cut out whilst driving the other day - hasn't started since. Has 12V at the + of the coil and 0V at the negative when the ignition's on. Remove the negative lead from the coil and it reads 12V at the positive but now 8.8V at the negative. What are my electrics trying to tell me? I gather you were expecting +12V at the -ve terminal in that test. So there must be a current flowing through the coil to give you a 3.2V drop like that, and the most likely possibility that I can think of is a breakdown of the insulation from the coil primary to the frame. This would reduce your spark considerably. To test this, unbolt the coil from its mounting and repeat the test with the coil insulated from the car with a sheet of cardboard or something. If you now get your +12V at the negative terminal, you need a new coil.
twosmoke300 Posted July 31, 2015 Posted July 31, 2015 That is normal volt drop across the coil as it charges . The negative lead goes to the points to watch so will read zero v if the points are closed
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