Ask a Shiter

[NorfolkNWeigh]

New roof skin is probably the easiest way to go

Any welding is going to distort such a large,thin panel

And any filler going to crack out

A friend has a Mk2 RS 2000 which he's owned for 27 years and is finally biting the bullet and having the nasty aftermarket sunroof removed. He's got someone who's going to glue a panel in, apparently he's seen examples of previous jobs and it works. He dresses the edges to make it flush then uses tiny countersunk screws to hold it in position, before using some high tech glue.

It helps that he'll be replacing the factory vinyl roof, so it won't be visible. I think he mentioned £250, although it's not been done yet.

[cort16]

On new bmw's all the panels incliding quarters are glued on with this new fangled glue they've developed there's no welding at all. If you joddled a bit of steel to sit flush then could hold it in place with some pressure I recon you could fill a sunroof hole using the glue then weld in some bracing underneath.

[Station]

Why do brake pad squeal in the carrier bracket? I don't understand why they would make so much noise?

[Louise2cv]

Guys.... massive apologies but this is about the A6. Soz and everything.

 

The seatbelt receiver for the rear middle seat has broken. The outer casing has snapped off where the buckle goes in, it holds the belt once it is engaged but it is a bit fiddly to get it in (oo er missus), I guess because the plastic guides the buckle in. 

 

Anyhoo. The MOT is due, what do we think? OH took it to a garage today who said it still functions so it will pass, but as we are getting Tesco clubcard points to pay at Halfords autocentre, I worry that obviously the opinion might differ esp as getting it in is tricky (oo er missus).

 

I phoned the local Audi dealership but they wouldn't give me a part number, just a quote and all I can find on Google is the part number for earlier models. I am aware I am being a spoon, but how do I find out what the part number is? I am really just after a price for the part to make sure we don't get ripped off.

 

Ta.

[Asimo]

Just bought new spark plugs for the motor sickle.

 

They have threaded terminal which I've never seen before, does the HT lead somehow screw on? But you can't turn around an HT lead without making a granny knot...

Many plugs are threaded, there is usually a screw-on barrel supplied with such a plug, that will mate with push-on plug caps. Try unscrewing the barrel from your old plug, if it comes off ok you are sorted.

 

Back in olden days, plug leads ended in a ring terminal that was secured to the plug with nuts and washers. Push-on is modern!

[mat_the_cat]

how do I find out what the part number is? I am really just after a price for the part to make sure we don't get ripped off.

 

Sorry for the obvious question, but is there anything moulded into the plastic? I've used these guys for Audi parts before:

http://a8parts.co.uk/index.asp?SC=A6&PC=HM

[Louise2cv]

It's buried in the seat, unless I'm being really stupid (likely). The mahoosive pain in the ass child seats have zapped my enthusiasm for this job really.

[Louise2cv]

Thanks for the link, will check it out tomorrow.

[dollywobbler]

In theory, as your garage man says, the seatbelt only has to work. It doesn't have to be pretty. Can you not 'repair' the old casing with sellotape?

[KruJoe]

What's the name of that product mentioned here a couple months back?

It's painted onto rusty steel, and completely dissolves the oxidation. There was a picture posted of a rotten Discovery screen surround which had been treated and made it look like bright silver lacework. This stuff gets rid of every trace of grot - what's it called?

[mat_the_cat]

'Twas I that posted it - Bilt Hamber Deox gel. That was after about a week of repeat applications though.

 

Here you go!

[Honey Badger]

On new bmw's all the panels incliding quarters are glued on with this new fangled glue they've developed there's no welding at all. If you joddled a bit of steel to sit flush then could hold it in place with some pressure I recon you could fill a sunroof hole using the glue then weld in some bracing underneath.

 

I work with some people who develop the high end adhesives used in structural bonding of metals and there would be no need to weld in any bracing, 1mm bonds between metal can take tons of load before the adhesive gives way, the metal would destort before the adhesive gives way.

 

If its the right adhesive.

 

And the surfaces are spotless.

 

And you maintain a constant bond thickness.

 

And you don't glue your hands to your car roof.

[KruJoe]

Thanks Mat, much appreciated!

[barefoot]

Where does, 'I can haz....' Come from?

[catsinthewelder]

Anyhoo. The MOT is due, what do we think? OH took it to a garage today who said it still functions so it will pass, but as we are getting Tesco clubcard points to pay at Halfords autocentre, I worry that obviously the opinion might differ esp as getting it in is tricky (oo er missus).

 

 

Strap the child seat in with it and they can't legally disturb it,  should pass but get an advisory. 

 

I might be keeping an old baby seat in the loft for this purpouse now all of mine are on booster cushions

[Noel Tidybeard]

^^^^+1 wot he said

[Noel Tidybeard]

spoke with renner about recall on the 19 and its too old to be on the pooter system!!

 

she said would have to talk wiv someone and ring me back lol

[drum]

I should stick to diesels.

I'm trying to recommission a 2.25 petrol series land rover engine but can't get a spark. I thought the coil changed the voltage but I still get 14volts coming out of the HT lead. Is this right?

[Noel Tidybeard]

nah should be more like 30000 volfts from ht lead

[Louise2cv]

Thanks guys. I had considered moving the car seat but A)they are mildly fiddly rear facing buggers and B)we will probably be taking the 2 toddlers with us that day.

 

TBF the main dealer quote wasn't as eyewateringly huge as I'd been expecting so will probably MOT and then get it fixed somewhere or other.

[Asimo]

If you are measuring 14v on the HT terminal of the coil, and are measuring it with a multimeter, that is OK. If you are measuring it with a test lamp like a brake-light bulb then there is a coil problem. (multimeter draws maybe a few millionths of an amp, bulb draws 1or 2 amps) and the tiny current will pass throughthe high voltage winding ok, the larger current won't.

The high voltage only appears ( briefly) when the points open. There are two windings in the coil, low voltage and high voltage and they are connected at the terminal connected to the points so if the points are open, you will measure 14v. ( If the two low voltage terminals are swapped, it will still all work but the 14v will be there even if the points are closed)

 

If you google " Kettering ignition circuit " you will find a diagram that makes it all clear.

[KruJoe]

Lou, if you have time, type the model + 'breaking' into ebay, there's bound to be one (or something similar) breaking for spares, contact the seller and ask for the bit you need. It should save you a packet over the dealer price.

[Louise2cv]

Yeah for some reason it always seems to throw up stuff for the model before but none for this version. Will keep looking though, cheers.

[KruJoe]

If it's a recent model, you're probably best trying the specialist Audi breakers, eg-

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/rsdismantlers

or this one:

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Audi-Parts-West-Midland/Audi-A6-C6-2004-2011-Parts-/_i.html?_fsub=6034449015&_sid=1130443715&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

The specialists pay a bit more for write-offs, so get newer stuff than general dismantlers, or guys parting out an old motor from their driveway.

[drum]

If you are measuring 14v on the HT terminal of the coil, and are measuring it with a multimeter, that is OK. If you are measuring it with a test lamp like a brake-light bulb then there is a coil problem. (multimeter draws maybe a few millionths of an amp, bulb draws 1or 2 amps) and the tiny current will pass throughthe high voltage winding ok, the larger current won't.

The high voltage only appears ( briefly) when the points open. There are two windings in the coil, low voltage and high voltage and they are connected at the terminal connected to the points so if the points are open, you will measure 14v. ( If the two low voltage terminals are swapped, it will still all work but the 14v will be there even if the points are closed)

If you google " Kettering ignition circuit " you will find a diagram that makes it all clear.

It was with a multimeter so the coil is probably ok then? How do I test the coil with a bulb - what should I expect to happen? It's a new coil an I also have a new distributor which I tried wiring up off the engine to see if I could get spark, but no joy either. Although the 14v is going in to the dizzy cap, I can't register anything coming out (spark plug lead socket) when I rotate the dizzy shaft. New points etc. Would the multimeter pick up the output voltage to the spark plug?

 

I'm a mong with electrics and I know I'm doing something stupid like earthing or not earthing.

 

Edit. Reading your reply again, if the bulb lights up, it means it is drawing current and the coil is goosed?

[Asimo]

OK, Two terminals on the coil, one to battery via the ignition switch, should have 14v on it all the time the ignition is on.

The other terminal goes to the distributor, to the points.( Points are just a switch which connects the coil to earth so that current can flow through the primary winding of the coil. When the points open, this current stops flowing and then the spark happens)

 

So measure the voltage on the terminal that goes to the points: this should be 14v when the points open, zero when they are closed. If that is what happens, and the capacitor (condensor in car speak) is ok, then the very high voltage will briefly appear at the centre terminal.

 

DONT put you multimeter probe onto that terminal unless the points are very definately open or very definately closed. The highvoltage will kill a multimeter instantly!

 

use one of the plug leads to connect a plug to the centre of the coil directly, ignore the distributor cap and rotor arm for now. With this plug earthed by touching the engine somewhere, turn the engine over and you should see / hear two sparks per rev.

 

I would be surprised If you can draw enough current out of the high voltage terminal of the coil to light a brake light bulb. That terminal is connected to a winding of thousands of turns of very fine wire which has enough resistance to limit the current to much less than the amp or so a bulb will need.

[drum]

Thanks sorn me. The coil is working fine and I can get the plug sparking with the new dizzy on the bench now, so the problem lies with the old distributor. Must be the points or condenser but I'll probably just swap the whole thing over. The cap on the new one is bigger than the old, hopefully this doesn't mean it's the wrong distributor. I haven't swapped dizzies before so no doubt the timing will be all to pot afterwards.

Cheers again.

[KruJoe]

I have five bare, scabby, retched, horrible, steel rims that I need to clean up and repaint. Do I just man up and get busy with the knotted wheel, or invest in this:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bilt-Hamber-Deox-C-Concentrated-Rust-Remover-Deox-C-Corrosion-1000ml-bottle-/181161232758?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Car_Care_Cleaning&hash=item2a2e0d0976

 

Does it work?

It's £12, but I could get through the same value in flapper wheels and corneas on this job.

[meggersdog]

Your Land Rover points probably look like this

there is a nylon bush under that nut.Make sure the condenser and ignition wire is on the nut side.The other way round makes it earth on the spring so whether the points are open or closed the SW side of the coil goes straight to earth.

Sometimes they might be right but the wire tag is touching the spring if so gently bend the tag up

[mercrocker]

Kru-Joe  --- the  Deox gel is certainly the best rust neutraliser I  have tried (following instructions is a must and it will often take several goes...) but its  not a paint stripper or surface prep.   All it does  is neutralise the rusted bare  metal, its not very kind to paintwork but wont strip it.   Flapper wheels and eye surgery still your best bet I feel - unless you are lush enough to get them blasted/coated which I ended up  doing on my Cowley because I have been besieged  by leaky wheel rims (rust) and frankly crap PO attempts at wheel paint.   The minor  got so bad flaking paint was tinkling around inside the hubcaps and sounded like those blasted ethnic wind charms everywhere I  went.