Ask a Shiter

[sheffcortinacentre]

presume its an inertia type starter with separate solenoid.

 

in which case its the solenoid.

 

you can check by shorting the two large terminals with a screwdriver, this should get the starter turning.

[Wilko220]

presume its an inertia type starter with separate solenoid.

 

 

 

No, it's pre-engaged with a solenoid built in. 

Looks rather like these:

 

 

It works fine out of the car.

 

Interesting suggestion on the ignition switch - but turning the key does everything else it should (dimming lights etc)...

[pompei]

What is the pointy stick thing that some official places behing the back wheel just before a car takes off on a hill climb?

[sheffcortinacentre]

its to hold the car so driver can leave had brake off

[Richard]

 

 

Or......."We don't actually cover you for all the eventualities you might think we do.   Why not buy this piece of additional cover which, whilst it may actually prove of no value, you will be hesitant to turn down because now we have sown a seed of doubt in your mind?"

 

That's the problem I have, I don't think I need it but I'm not sure so I always end up paying it- as my wife has this time.

 

In my experience when I had a motorbike accident, my 'Legal Protection' encouraged me to claim for whiplash, despite not suffering from it. I was even told that "nobody can prove otherwise"!

 

So it's for pursuing the spurious claims that drive everybody's insurance up? I used to think it was for defending yourself against spurious claims and/or covering your legal costs in a messy case, If it does that I'm happy to pay it because I know how legal costs can escalate. The explanations I've read and heard make me think "isn't that what your insurance is supposed to do anyway?"

 

Does anybody have a definitive answer? While we're at it, is it worth protecting your No Claims?

[dave21478]

I used to pay extra for no-claims protection, but then I had an accident (other drivers fault, but it went 50:50 in the end) and while the number of years NCB was not changed, they jacked the renewal right up anyway as the accident still has to be declared.

 

I then sacked off the NCB protection, and promptly had another accident (my fault - wheel came off the car while driving and hit some poor chaps van). They reduced NCB from 9 years to 7 years and jacked the renewal up by the same kind of amount as before.. 

 

 

If you have a few years NCB - like 4 or more, I think, then having a claim doesnt mean you loose it all, you just loose a couple of years of it, but even if you have protection, having a few claims within a limited time still means you will loose it anyway.

 

Conclusion - its a waste of money.

 

 

As for the legal protection - they make it sound awfully important, which to my cynical eyes suggests that its not actually needed. I always assumed it was to help me fight a tricky case, but as mentioned above, surely thats what the basic policy is for anyway?

 

Conclusion - its a waste of money too. 

 

I now run with the absolute minimum stripped down insurance I can find, and since my cars are all cheap knackers I am perfectly happy to walk away from it as a total loss and leave the insurers to sort out any third party claims should the worst happen.

[mercrocker]

Totally agree with that last paragraph......Insurance  is no different to betting on a horse (or dog).   You are effectively wagering against an eventuality not happening.  In the case of Road Traffic Act it is compulsory to have a minimum  level of third party cover  but beyond that it is a case of "I bet £150 that I will not sustain an otherwise unrecoverable loss that  exceeds this amount for the next 12 months".  

[mat_the_cat]

So it's for pursuing the spurious claims that drive everybody's insurance up? I used to think it was for defending yourself against spurious claims and/or covering your legal costs in a messy case

 

Certainly in my case it seemed the former, although I hope it isn't the norm. I didn't claim, despite a surprising number of people saying I should: "You've paid the premium, you might as well get something back" etc.

 

OTOH, I suspect they'd defend you from spurious claims, but can't help thinking they stand to make more profit claiming rather than defending...

[dave21478]

Totally agree with that last paragraph......Insurance  is no different to betting on a horse (or dog).   You are effectively wagering against an eventuality not happening.  In the case of Road Traffic Act it is compulsory to have a minimum  level of third party cover  but beyond that it is a case of "I bet £150 that I will not sustain an otherwise unrecoverable loss that  exceeds this amount for the next 12 months".  

 

Exactly.

I hate insurance. Yes I see the need for it, but I just dont like the way the companies work.

 

Over the years I have allsorts of cover types. I have paid a lot of money for top-level cover, I have gone to specialists for the precise application I needed, I have used mid-priced household names and have used the cheapest cover from unheard of companies. At all levels, at best I have had mediocre service and at worst I have been blatantly ripped off with a "yeah, what you going to do about it?" attitude.

 

Thinking about it, as far as I can tell, insurance is the only time in society where I am legally obliged to buy something from a private company - A company that is part of an industry that is a law unto themselves. That just doesnt sit well with me.

[NorfolkNWeigh]

Did you not tick the optional Breadvan cover when you signed up for Autoshite?

[xtriple]

I used to work in insurance and all the companies are shite... except for the Co-op! That 'may' have changed as it was a LOOOONG time ago I worked for them, but they were truly honorable when dealing with claims.

 

Nowadays, I buy the cheapest car insurance (AA this year) and trust that they are terrible.

[mercrocker]

Cheapest every time,  and minimal cover, for  me.    Same with life cover - check its  not free at work as stated previously.  Never ever do that  shit thing with Currys and the like.   Shit  happens and sometimes it costs you but insurance ALWAYS  does!

[M'coli]

The Co-op don't allow you to modify your car though, so no spotlights, no veg-drinking Bosch-pumped engine in place of the Lucas one, no cheap wheels and tyres off of eBay from a slightly different but more popular model.

[meshking]

EBay aside, where do people get their mechanic gloves from? I tend to use blue nitrile but I'm struggling to find a good cheap supply.

 

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

[willswitchengage]

Are Draper tools shit?

 

Answered my own question when the postman arrived. Yes, yes they are.

[mat_the_cat]

EBay aside, where do people get their mechanic gloves from? I tend to use blue nitrile but I'm struggling to find a good cheap supply.

 

I use these:

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Workwear/Gloves/Disposable+Gloves+Powdered+Vinyl/d70/sd570/p69202

 

Last a bit longer than latex although quality isn't always consistent - some boxes seem to have thicker gloves than others. Not bad though, you don't get the 'rip as soon as you put it on' type glove.

[The Moog]

I used to use ones called Black Knight which were a bit thicker but now I just use a barrier cream. Means I don't have to worry about changing gloves etc and muck washes off easily.

[spike60]

Euro car parts sell nitrile gloves and if you use the code mbclub25 you'll get 25% off, as you do off a lot of other stuff. Not that I told you that.

[KruJoe]

Poundland have palm dipped work gloves in, I got a few pairs, black or white, a snug size M is ideal for me, and last about 20-30 hours of tinkering (with a few washes) before they get holed. They're a good compromise between protection and feeling what you're doing. Keeps hand a bit warmer too.

Similar to this:
Choose a tight-ish size. £1 is value... normally 3 or 4 quid elsehwere.

Don't get the gardening ones though - the rubber either crumbles, or turns to glue on contact with oil.

[mercrocker]

I never realised how lucky I am......I live right opposite (50m walk) a motor factors who always have green nitrile gloves at  £2.50 a box.   Not only that they lend me stuff and get 90pc of my Morris Minor parts next day.    Top blokes - the counter staff  both have 940 estates and lust after 80s Jap stuff.    Boss man has a Mk 1 Zephyr.  No wonder Mrs Mercrocker can never  interest me in any kind of house move.....

[Sloth in a bowl]

No, it's pre-engaged with a solenoid built in.

Looks rather like these:

 

 

It works fine out of the car.

 

Interesting suggestion on the ignition switch - but turning the key does everything else it should (dimming lights etc)...

If when if clicks and doesn't start. You take off the the starter, rotate the teeth a bit, bolt it back on and all is well, then the cause is the starter and pinion hitting each other teeth end on and not meshing.

 

I have greased the end of the starter teeth on my Datsun to good effect when solving this problem.

[meshking]

Thanks for all the glove feedback. I've tried the reusable ones before but didn't really get on with them for some reason. A bit of more cleverer searching on eBay and I done found someone selling blue nitriles for 3.99 delivered per 100. Job done.

[Mr Lobster]

^ Linky to ebay seller please!

[phil_lihp]

I really do need to spend some time sorting out the bodywork on the 220 in the next few weeks so as a complete novice, what's the best approach on a very limited budget?  It has some rusty patches on the door bottoms, corners and sills and these have bloomed into bright orange fresh rust in recent months as the car is stored alternately at my house 100 yards from the sea and in a lockup which is almost permanently damp.  

 

To stem the rust temporarily I sanded it down and put some kurust on followed by brushing grey primer on it which is supposed to contains rust-preventative.  It sort of worked but speckles of rust are showing through the primer again already and the whole thing looks pretty shocking.

 

I have stocked up on emery paper and sandpaper plus plenty of the right coloured paint with the original aim of rubbing each patch down, spraying with primer, sanding smooth and then painting/laquering.

 

My concern is that it won't stop the rust blooming through again - do I need to get down to bare metal?  If so, how can I achieve that?  I have an old Dremel multi tool that might be useful or maybe I'd be better off with a wire wheel attached to my cordless drill.  

 

I know it'll never look concours but I'd be happy with a reasonably smooth and shiny paint finish on the patches which doesn't look too obvious from a couple of feet away.  Any thoughts?  

[meshking]

^ Linky to ebay seller please!

Sorry, 4.99 delivered from eBay seller smile.health cant seem to link from the ebay app on this device.

[catsinthewelder]

Here you go

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Box-100-Bodyguard-4-Latex-Powder-Free-Disposable-Gloves-FREE-DELIVERY-/151259590448?pt=UK_BOI_Medical_Lab_Equipment_Medical_Supplies_Disposables_ET&var=&hash=item68d9843db9

 

Annoyingly you can't buy 1 pack of large at the moment as 1 box is out of stock,  watched until they've updated the thing.

[meshking]

Thanks! I bought three boxes because the missus uses them in the garden but never tells me when she has finished a box.

 

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

[Asimo]

No, it's pre-engaged with a solenoid built in. 

Looks rather like these:

 

 

It works fine out of the car]

 

This can be just crud build-up in the solenoid. Take it to bits and clean up the moving part, the steel slug, and the "bore" it slides in. Also clean the contacts. The crud eventually stops the solenoid slug moving enough for the contacts to make. The click you hear is the solenoid moving, it just doesn't move far enough to connect the starter.

[castros_bro]

My R reg  " it seemed like a good idea at the time" Renault Traffic driveway installation is leaking but confusing me.   I pour water into the rad  and it proceeds to drip out of the gearbox/diff. I spent a fab* time laying underneath it removing the undertrays etc then trying to take photos in an attempt to find WTF is happening.

 

Can someone explain how the water gets to drip out of the gearbox/diff??

[spike60]

My R reg  " it seemed like a good idea at the time" Renault Traffic driveway installation is leaking but confusing me.   I pour water into the rad  and it proceeds to drip out of the gearbox/diff. I spent a fab* time laying underneath it removing the undertrays etc then trying to take photos in an attempt to find WTF is happening.

 

Can someone explain how the water gets to drip out of the gearbox/diff??

Core plug at the rear of the engine leaking into the bell housing? External leak finding it's way into the bell housing?