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Posted

Can any SU carbs be blown through via forced induction? I tried googling but confused myself. I know the Metro Turbo used an SU.....

Posted

When ordinary carbs. are blown through they have to be inside a pressurised box because they depend upon various points being referenced to atmospheric pressure. (Early Bentley turbo is a good example of this) If the whole carb is in the pressure box it will work in the normal way.

 

Think about the float chamber for example: it is vented to atmospheric pressure. If the air pressure into the carb was higher than atmospheric pressure then air would bubble up ino the float chamber and no fuel would get to the main jet.

 

Hence aftermarket kits suck through carbs although I think there may have been an Essex v6 turbo kit that used "carb in abox"

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Posted

Can any SU carbs be blown through via forced induction? I tried googling but confused myself. I know the Metro Turbo used an SU.....

 

I think the Metro was suck through not blow.

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Posted

In the early 80's when I worked for the Forestry Commission we would occasionally get rally teams using bits of our workshop when they were testing. RED brought a Sierra turbo  (pre Cosworth) in that had twin side draught webers turbo fed into their mouths with a pressure line going to the float chamber. Shortly afterward the Sierra Cosworth killed off the RED4T. 

Posted

Anyone have a ball park figure for council garage rental? NE England if makes a difference which I suspect it does.

I pay £21 ish a month for my council garage full of shit in Rotherham.

Posted

Metro turbo carb was slightly different, seals on the spindle and main thing was a restrictor plate bodge to keep the mixture right. 

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Posted

Anyone have a ball park figure for council garage rental? NE England if makes a difference which I suspect it does.

£12.50 a week for a leaky brick built one or £2 a week for a plot with an old corrugated garage on.

Posted

I pay £21 ish a month for my council garage full of shit in Rotherham.

Will I get a price reduction if I provide my own shit? :-D

Posted

*looks of out office window*

 

You'll have to pay extra as there is loads of shit in Rotherham already.

Posted

Honda Hrv  vtec  _   was it  red or green antifreeze ?  ..none in it,  just water since i changed the rad  :shock:  !

Posted

Is anyone on here clued up about Frogeye Sprites?

Posted

They rust... 3 piece sills that rot the inside structural member first etc etc

 

That's about the limit of my knowledge.

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Posted

Quarter epileptics I think they prefer to call them.

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Posted

Am I imagining this, or have Landrover started fitting orange side lights to the front of some of their cars?

 

I swear blind I keep seeing some of the newer ones (model unknown) with what I keep thinking are indicators on, but when I look again they're not, as they don't flash!  If I'm correct and not going mad, this is one of the most annoying pieces of modern bling shit I've seen in years, not to mention very distracting.

 

It's annoying the fuck out of me, but I can't find a photo to show you....

Posted

I'm pretty sure I used to see a lot of D2s like that. I was never sure if it was normal or idiots fitting US spec lights.

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Posted

Sprites are brilliant! So basic it's untrue. Yes, they do like to corrode but a lot of panels are flat sheet so easy to make and te mechanicals are A30/35 in the main so simple and easy to upgrade. Worth good coin as well...

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Posted

Need a new battery for my Jetta TDI, battery has been on the way out for a few days and has finally gone, I can start it up, drive somewhere say 50miles away, the batteries getting a good charge, switch it off, go into a shop for 5minutes for cigarettes, come out and the bugger is flat, so cant be depended on, it needs jumped to go start always now, and I cant risk turning the engine off or end up stranded, so time to bite the bullet.

 

Wheres the best place to get one? ECP are obviously the cheapest especially with their never ending sales on, and I know unlike their mechanical parts, a battery is a battery so it will undoubtedly fit, but the brands they sell at a reasonable price are Lion and Exide ones, are these any good or are they going to fail and need to constantly be exchanged for a new one? I wouldnt mind this on anything else but a battery is vital so I dont end up without a car of get stranded anywhere if it fails.

 

The current one in the car is the original from 2009, so its had a good innings and its a 61Ah, 330A (DIN) 540CCA rated one, however phoning round local factors, local fast fits and even TPS (VW genuine parts warehouse) they all say its underrated for a diesel and shouldve been fitted with a more heavy duty one from new and thats what they want to sell me. Its definitely the original as its VW stickered with a VW part number and a manufacturing date of 2008 on it (car built late 2008, registered mid 2009) 

 

Didnt think something as simple as a battery was going to be this complicated, also how important are the height, depth and width measurements of the replacement, must they match the same dimensions as the original or can they be noticeably bigger or smaller than it? the battery box is quite large on these cars and the battery is just held in place by a lip that a lip on one side of the battery slides under and a clamp with a bolt at the opposite side. 

Posted

Oh or I can go to the next cheapest AutopartsUK.com which are Arnie Sharks motor factors, yes they even run motor factors now, and get a Goliath one for £68.95. All 3 batteries at least seem to have a higher Ah rating and CCA rating than the original, however no idea what DIN amp rating they are. 

Posted

Fitted loads of Lion batteries, don’t think they’re brilliant but then loads aren’t these days. Had little trouble myself.

 

Exide are pretty good if you don’t want to fork out the extra for Bosch. Even Halfords own brand aren’t bad (competitive with a trade card, extortionate without)

Posted

I used to pay big bucks for batteries with good brand names. I bought a Bosch silver that didn't even make it through its five year warranty period, so that's put me off Bosch and varta as they are the same batteries made in the same factory, just rebranded. I have got it into my head that the standard vw battery is a varta though.

I have used exide on my last two vehicles and had no bother. When selecting a battery I always choose the biggest battery that will physically fit in the hole, and the most powerful one with regards to CCA.

Following from what kiltox said, I think halfords ones are made by yuasa, but cobblers with confirm or dismiss that.

Posted

I go for Lion as they're cheap and keep good care of the receipt. Not had one fail yet though.

 

 

That could be because every car I've put one in, I've not kept it long enough...

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Posted

You can normally get a good make from ebay for about 40 quid.

 

Just beware of knock off items purporting to be the real thing. Got caught with that when I bought a 'Lucas' battery only for someone to point out that the real company stopped making them years ago.

Posted

The only two pieces of battery information I can impart are that  

 

1.  Nothing lasts like the original battery which is usually unobtainable by the time it fails.  

 

2. If you can put off buying a new one by even a day do so.   This is because that will be the anniversary of the expiry of the warranty.   And the battery.....

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Posted

I had a lion one fail, took it back traded it for a bosch that was in one of the non stop sales at ECP. Just looking now and the price looks like it has gone up a fair bit, that must mean they are preparing for yet another sale. I agree with bigfella though, just get the biggest battery you can physically fit in the gap, that's how I do it. 

 

Has anyone tried these fancy gel cell batteries? do they last any better?

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