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Posted
Just now, stuboy said:

FiL still not sorted his c1 licence so funbus hasn't moved since I drove it home, so I said last week we'd take it out Saturday,  we'll monsoon and hurricance delayed it till today.. trip to New Romney, stroll on the stones and for a cup of tea in fun bus, up to the chippy for food, and eaten in a lay-by up the road..

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  • Like 5
Posted
9 minutes ago, stuboy said:

FiL still not sorted his c1 licence so funbus hasn't moved since I drove it home, so I said last week we'd take it out Saturday,  we'll monsoon and hurricance delayed it till today.. trip to New Romney, stroll on the stones and for a cup of tea in fun bus, up to the chippy for food, and eaten in a lay-by up the road..

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I bet parallel parking is fun in town.

Posted
10 minutes ago, stuboy said:

 

 

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You’re a lot younger than I imagined!

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
Posted
1 hour ago, richardmorris said:

I bet parallel parking is fun in town.

Each to his own, but I can't help feeling using one of these would be like taking a truck on holiday.

Posted
22 hours ago, Andyrew said:

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on the subject of hard labour... whats better the 1.7 dti or 2.2 dti

Posted
28 minutes ago, artdjones said:

Each to his own, but I can't help feeling using one of these would be like taking a truck on holiday.

its ok really , just avoid silly country lanes

Posted
1 hour ago, richardmorris said:

You’re a lot younger than I imagined!

47 years have been kind

Posted
3 hours ago, stuboy said:

on the subject of hard labour... whats better the 1.7 dti or 2.2 dti

The 1.7dti is a good engine, i feel its got plenty of poke for average driving. Tho the two i own are very very different. 

The silver car , higer miles drives lovely with a good pull upto and past 4k rpm. 

The black car 30k less miles is pretty laggy and stuggles when giving it some stick. 4k and its pretty flat. 

Its unknown if the silver car has been remapped or the black car is just clagged up from being giffered around most of its life. 

 

Posted

Got very little done this weekend due to the shite weather, but I have been having a tinker with the Visa carb - took it to bits, cleaned it out and put it back together with a new float and float valve, diaphragm and gaskets.  The rebuild kit I got appears to have been for a 2CV - the jets that came with it are smaller than the ones in the carb (and the main jet is completely different), and the gasket 'twixt carb top and body, while exactly the same size and shape, had a couple of minor holes missing which I had to make.  The rest of it was all good though, although the replacement base gasket is open between the two chokes where the original had them separated, but I don't imagine that'll make any difference.

I am slightly puzzled about one thing - there's an inlet (or outlet?) at the base of the carb which didn't have anything connected to it - what does this do?  Is it an overflow and if so should it be connected to something?  It's the arrowed bit in the photo (not my carb, this is a shiny new one that I found a picture of on the internet).

carburateur-double-corps-solex-visa-26-35-csic.thumb.jpg.c942315904a01d6cb6ea23ea590631ec.jpg

I had been hoping to get the electronic ignition module mounted properly over the weekend too, but I'm fecked if I'm drilling and tapping holes when it's blowing a gale and pissing with rain, so that's going to have to wait a little longer.

I went out in the Toyota on Saturday and noticed that the reversing camera has become intermittent - that's another thing to look at when the weather is better.  I think it's probably either the transmitter or receiver that's playing up, I may have to have a play with the wiring.  The camera on the Maxus is still working fine, despite having a longer distance to transmit.  I think I might have to replace the driver's window regulator on the Toyota at some point soon as well - it's making some funny noises and it took several minutes of fiddling the other day to get it to wind up fully.  Not an issue at this time of year but come the summer I'd like to be able to have the window down without worrying whether it's going to come back up again.

Earlier in the week I emptied 2/3 of a can of cavity wax into the Rover's sills and the inside of the rear trailing arms (which are a bit of a rust trap and difficult to get hold of for the estates).  Not that there's been much salt on the roads this winter yet, but I do want to try and keep it solid for as long as possible.  Most of the rest of the can was used on the Innocenti - I sprayed it up inside the chassis rails and I also squirted some between the skins of the bonnet - that's been getting gradually rustier for a few years now and I want to try and prevent it from getting too much worse as I imagine locating a replacement will be fun*.  I'm going to order another can of wax as I want to do the Toyota and the Visa at some point soon as well.

Posted
6 hours ago, wuvvum said:

I am slightly puzzled about one thing - there's an inlet (or outlet?) at the base of the carb which didn't have anything connected to it - what does this do?  Is it an overflow and if so should it be connected to something?  It's the arrowed bit in the photo (not my carb, this is a shiny new one that I found a picture of on the internet).

It looks like a vacuum connection, which I would guess is for a sensor on the original ignition system.  Blank it off if not required for the 123.

  • Like 2
Posted
6 hours ago, wuvvum said:

Got very little done this weekend due to the shite weather, but I have been having a tinker with the Visa carb - took it to bits, cleaned it out and put it back together with a new float and float valve, diaphragm and gaskets.  The rebuild kit I got appears to have been for a 2CV - the jets that came with it are smaller than the ones in the carb (and the main jet is completely different), and the gasket 'twixt carb top and body, while exactly the same size and shape, had a couple of minor holes missing which I had to make.  The rest of it was all good though, although the replacement base gasket is open between the two chokes where the original had them separated, but I don't imagine that'll make any difference.

I am slightly puzzled about one thing - there's an inlet (or outlet?) at the base of the carb which didn't have anything connected to it - what does this do?  Is it an overflow and if so should it be connected to something?  It's the arrowed bit in the photo (not my carb, this is a shiny new one that I found a picture of on the internet).

carburateur-double-corps-solex-visa-26-35-csic.thumb.jpg.c942315904a01d6cb6ea23ea590631ec.jpg

I had been hoping to get the electronic ignition module mounted properly over the weekend too, but I'm fecked if I'm drilling and tapping holes when it's blowing a gale and pissing with rain, so that's going to have to wait a little longer.

I went out in the Toyota on Saturday and noticed that the reversing camera has become intermittent - that's another thing to look at when the weather is better.  I think it's probably either the transmitter or receiver that's playing up, I may have to have a play with the wiring.  The camera on the Maxus is still working fine, despite having a longer distance to transmit.  I think I might have to replace the driver's window regulator on the Toyota at some point soon as well - it's making some funny noises and it took several minutes of fiddling the other day to get it to wind up fully.  Not an issue at this time of year but come the summer I'd like to be able to have the window down without worrying whether it's going to come back up again.

Earlier in the week I emptied 2/3 of a can of cavity wax into the Rover's sills and the inside of the rear trailing arms (which are a bit of a rust trap and difficult to get hold of for the estates).  Not that there's been much salt on the roads this winter yet, but I do want to try and keep it solid for as long as possible.  Most of the rest of the can was used on the Innocenti - I sprayed it up inside the chassis rails and I also squirted some between the skins of the bonnet - that's been getting gradually rustier for a few years now and I want to try and prevent it from getting too much worse as I imagine locating a replacement will be fun*.  I'm going to order another can of wax as I want to do the Toyota and the Visa at some point soon as well.

I wasn't aware that the trailing arms rotted on the 75, its normally the upper arms which are the same for saloon and tourer. You can get them from DMGRS.

Posted

Focus is awaiting it's fate* at the MOT station. 

F5 button currently on overdrive 😂

  • Like 4
Posted
2 minutes ago, RoverFolkUs said:

Focus is awaiting it's fate* at the MOT station. 

F5 button currently on overdrive 😂

🤞

  • Thanks 1
Posted
6 hours ago, Mr Pastry said:

It looks like a vacuum connection, which I would guess is for a sensor on the original ignition system.  Blank it off if not required for the 123.

Yes, I think it's for a vacuum advance set-up.

Posted
4 hours ago, RoverFolkUs said:

Focus is awaiting it's fate* at the MOT station. 

F5 button currently on overdrive 😂

 

4 hours ago, AnnoyingPentium said:

🤞

Fear not... came back a couple hours ago and....

IMG_20230109_135243.jpg.9e5ba999b7d03045a53feb7f9465f2c0.jpg

Clean sheet :)

Posted

25 is ready to collect from the garage.

Good points: Bottom ball joints changed so it's no longer in danger of falling apart.  One baggy track rod end was also changed.

Bad: The drop links I had sourced are totally wrong.  As do all the ones I can seem to find.  They're about an inch too long and the wrong shape.  Guessing I may need to get the ones off the car and re-bush them.  Also the anti roll bar bushes I've got are totally wrong - they're for a 22mm bar, the one on the car is 24mm.  That may be something I can resolve though...

Anyhow...at least I won't be nervous driving it now.  A clonk that I know is coming from a slightly baggy drop link bush is annoying rather than potentially dangerous.

Posted

Got the BMW back from BMW. No paperwork but car was washed and vacuumed.

I want to see if any weldjng has been done because " BMW main dealer" and "welding" simply doesn't compute.

The car doesn't smell like it's been on fire.

Posted
1 hour ago, Bren said:

Got the BMW back from BMW. No paperwork but car was washed and vacuumed.

I want to see if any weldjng has been done because " BMW main dealer" and "welding" simply doesn't compute.

The car doesn't smell like it's been on fire.

Maybe they filled it with chicken wire and wob? 😂

Posted
16 hours ago, Zelandeth said:

25 is ready to collect from the garage.

Good points: Bottom ball joints changed so it's no longer in danger of falling apart.  One baggy track rod end was also changed.

Bad: The drop links I had sourced are totally wrong.  As do all the ones I can seem to find.  They're about an inch too long and the wrong shape.  Guessing I may need to get the ones off the car and re-bush them.  Also the anti roll bar bushes I've got are totally wrong - they're for a 22mm bar, the one on the car is 24mm.  That may be something I can resolve though...

Anyhow...at least I won't be nervous driving it now.  A clonk that I know is coming from a slightly baggy drop link bush is annoying rather than potentially dangerous.

If its good enough for a genooooowine race car.. 

Screenshot_20230110-114822_Facebook.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted
On 1/9/2023 at 6:52 AM, Split_Pin said:

I wasn't aware that the trailing arms rotted on the 75, its normally the upper arms which are the same for saloon and tourer. You can get them from DMGRS.

The rear bottom arms also rot badly. They generally have a protective* plastic cover.

My MOT man said they will break at some point, but I can't see, so I cant fail it.

Advisory for rust.

 

Posted
3 hours ago, andy18s said:

If its good enough for a genooooowine race car.. 

Screenshot_20230110-114822_Facebook.jpg

The 360BHP AWD Skoda I won from Darkside Developments had drop links like that.

It looks fucking shit but I suppose it's perfectly safe.

Posted
4 hours ago, andy18s said:

If its good enough for a genooooowine race car.. 

Screenshot_20230110-114822_Facebook.jpg

Wasn't there a specific failure item on the MOT for welded repairs to suspension components (seemingly irrespective of how they were originally assembled)?

If I can't find appropriate replacements I think re-bushing the originals sounds a bit less sketchy!

Posted
2 hours ago, Mally said:

The rear bottom arms also rot badly. They generally have a protective* plastic cover.

My MOT man said they will break at some point, but I can't see, so I cant fail it.

Advisory for rust.

 

Mine were all replaced in 2019 a year before I got the car (it's the upper arms that rot badly as they contain a recessed spring seat, no drain hole and are made from mild steel. New ones have been remanufacture now by DMGRS.

Posted
43 minutes ago, Zelandeth said:

Wasn't there a specific failure item on the MOT for welded repairs to suspension components (seemingly irrespective of how they were originally assembled)?

If I can't find appropriate replacements I think re-bushing the originals sounds a bit less sketchy!

Yeah, comes under unsafe modification

Whether it's actually unsafe to cut and reweld a drop link could be up for debate 🤔

Posted
29 minutes ago, RoverFolkUs said:

Yeah, comes under unsafe modification

Whether it's actually unsafe to cut and reweld a drop link could be up for debate 🤔

My T2 has been running on dropped spindles for a decade or more, which obviously makes the bus look incredibly* cool. Are they just cut & welded together at a different length? And should they be an MOT failure? 

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, RoverFolkUs said:

Yeah, comes under unsafe modification

Whether it's actually unsafe to cut and reweld a drop link could be up for debate 🤔

Depends how bad your welding is.

Or how good your grinding is.

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, RoverFolkUs said:

Yeah, comes under unsafe modification

Whether it's actually unsafe to cut and reweld a drop link could be up for debate 🤔

Thought so.  It was a shock absorber mounting lug that got me.  Despite it having been held on by two tiny crap welds from the factory (which is why this car had already had the wishbone swapped once because the mount broke off the original one in exactly the same spot).  Having welded it back on following the weld cracking on the replacement wasn't deemed acceptable.  Wound up having to replace the wishbone for a second time in six months...which I was rather cranky about.  Especially as I couldn't find a used one so had to buy a new one at a couple of hundred quid.  After I'd already paid to have the mounting lug repaired!

  • Like 1
Posted

A house I pass when walking the dog which has an abandoned Cinquecento parked outside is for sale, looking on the ad the house is empty and decor suggests it could be an elderly person so perhaps a deceased estate.  Guessing its likely to get scrapped. If it was a yellow sporting I would have already put a note through the door but not sure I am interested enough in a cooking version to try and save it but would be a shame to see it gone.  

That said I'm sure the brother in law of the person dealing with the sale has seen a few episodes of wheeler dealers and is convinced its worth 20 grand or something 

Screenshot_20230110_180233_Chrome.jpg

Posted
On 1/1/2023 at 5:05 PM, brownnova said:

A great time. In Wrexham???

 Can’t be right. 

Aah yes but don't forget @Cavcraft joke book 🤣

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