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Posted

My Transit was still wearing it's original 1984 tyres on it's front wheels, I'm sure that date code was three numbers. I made changing them for new my priority on getting the van home as they wouldn't grip at all and gone hard and shiny.

 

Trig, on yours the three numbers are the date, so week 24 year 1991. There is also a small triangle symbol after the date code, this indicates a 1990's manufacture. If that triangle is not there but you still have a three figure date code it indicates 1980's manufacture.

 

I'd say they definitely got their money's worth out of those tyres!

  • Like 4
Posted

My Transit was still wearing it's original 1984 tyres on it's front wheels, I'm sure that date code was three numbers. I made changing them for new my priority on getting the van home as they wouldn't grip at all and gone hard and shiny.

 

Just drive on them for 2,000 miles and they will be soft and supple again.

  • Like 1
Posted

Just drive on them for 2,000 miles and they will be soft and supple again.

I had them changed for new. I didn't like the idea of using them tbh even though there was loads of tread left. They were rock hard and cracking, the surfaces had all gone like a glossy shiny finish and the grip/steering was terrible. They are commercial grade tyres so should be a lot stiffer anyway but the difference with new tyres was huge.

Posted

I can't believe 3 out of 4 of my tyres are still original, it's not like it's mega low mileage or anything either, there's one Michelin Classic on the front but that doesn't have a date code on it.

  • Like 2
Posted

I can't believe 3 out of 4 of my tyres are still original, it's not like it's mega low mileage or anything either, there's one Michelin Classic on the front but that doesn't have a date code on it.

Whoever owned it had done very well out of them that's for sure!

You going to change them?

Posted

Yeah I'll have too as i can't risk a blow out and they don't grip very well in the wet. The trouble is I'm looking at spending £160 for a set which is quite a lot on something I'll probably not keep for 5 minutes, i don't think I've got a lot of choice though.

  • Like 1
Posted

post-17481-0-06312700-1467985490_thumb.jpg

 

Just fired this pair up for the first time in a couple of months to drive them around the garden to "loosen them up". Both started immediately, which sort of reliability still seems amazing to me even after ten years of not having VW or Renault. But they do stink inside, a horrible dusty, dry, stale pong of neglect, like old vacuum cleaner bags. Subaru EML light came on, perhaps it just needs a blast down the M50....

 

post-17481-0-16905900-1467986070_thumb.jpg

 

And this hasn't moved in two weeks since getting a new MOT, except when I push it out of the way of grasscutting. I don't like having stuff I don't use but I just don't want to drive anywhere these days.

Posted

Intending to sell but doing nothing about it 'cos lazy and busy with other stuff.

Posted

I'll have that Legacy if it's a 2.5 (or above) and the price is right. :P

 

My driving style will definitely blow out the cobwebs.

Posted

Yeah I'll have too as i can't risk a blow out and they don't grip very well in the wet. The trouble is I'm looking at spending £160 for a set which is quite a lot on something I'll probably not keep for 5 minutes, i don't think I've got a lot of choice though.

 

Get a decent set of part worns on it. At those tyres sizes it'll probably cost you £60 for all 4

  • Like 3
Posted

Legacy is the 100kW 2.0, the slow but economical one.

Posted

Get a decent set of part worns on it. At those tyres sizes it'll probably cost you £60 for all 4

 

Aye, it was much less than £160 for four partworns for the A4, in 255/45/17 or something equally daft.

Posted

Bought this 26 minutes ago. Not told the wife. Just pitched up at her work. So dead.

 

615f168b79c280990405af1d324e2513.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Posted

Bought this 26 minutes ago. Not told the wife. Just pitched up at her work. So dead.

 

615f168b79c280990405af1d324e2513.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

Tell her I approve. That'll make it ok.

  • Like 1
Posted

Tell her I approve. That'll make it ok.

Didn't work. She's livid. I on the other hand am exceedingly happy with it.

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

  • Like 4
Posted

Didn't work. She's livid. I on the other hand am exceedingly happy with it.

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

welcome to park the 406 at bottom of wur street to camp

Posted

welcome to park the 406 at bottom of wur street to camp

One hour fifteen in and she's not spoken a word to me yet. That may be an option.

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Posted

One hour fifteen in and she's not spoken a word to me yet. That may be an option.

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

it'll be fine:)

Posted

it'll be fine:)

You seem more certain than me...

 

Anyway, important stuff. It's a '96 850 S 2.5-10v auto. No pez station shot 'cos it has half a tank in it. Had lots spent on it, cambelt and full exhaust two years ago. Last owner for 16 years and 86k on the clock. Half blue leather interior and lots of tasteful fake wood. No idea what spec S is supposed to be 'cos I reckon it's a higher spec than my old T-5 SE.

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted

The old Merc 300SE I bought last year has been getting some overdue attention, namely to it running like crap when warm though spot on when cold. It would start and run well with slick auto changes until it reached 75c when the throttle response went to shit, making the box upchanges crap as they are controlled by throttle opening. The CO meter showed the fuel mix was badly weakening with throttle.

After doing the usual vacuum leaks and buying a fuel pressure gauge set I got a bit more involved and wound the eha valve in about half a turn. This apparently alters the fuel pressure differential. After a little fine tuning it is tranformed, lovely low down power on light throttle and sweet upchanges. The internet has uses. :-D. A few more jobs to do but on the whole it's OK for a 200k donkey that spent 8 years parked on a pig farm.

Have a pic of an unwashed Merc on it's test drive near Staithes.

 

post-17633-0-70788100-1468009481_thumb.jpg

  • Like 9
Posted

post-17481-0-16905900-1467986070.jpg

 

Excellent photo for ebay listing!

  • Like 3
Posted

Got some time to do some work on stuff today, managed to move the ex-KruJoe bubble Rover on, made a start on zipping some fresh metal into areas needed on the Cortina and did a bit of painting.

 

Anyway, this momentous occasion occurred in the Cortina on the way to Shitefest...

 

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Once I had put some metal into the Cortina I took a look at these:

 

E246D8A4-4857-4814-AF76-534790E426FD_zps

 

And decided I needed to start a job I've been itching to do for ages ... Got half way through

 

EA59F161-66C2-44C6-A27D-C46EBA807B62_zps

 

Leaving the poor Cortina looking a bit rough on Sierra steels:

 

F0EAAF54-997A-4D0A-BE07-A221D9282B7B_zps

 

Briefly checked in on my 86 728i which I haven't looked at since before Christmas when I put the engine back in

 

4D2203AA-7D14-4E17-8D3E-ECC57EE389DB_zps

 

And then got home to be greeted to an eBay notification following a winning bid on an auction

 

012B17D1-C7C7-40C0-82B3-6757761697EB_zps

Posted

I saw a broken down bright yellow Bedford CF in Redcar tonight with a Sierra in attendance. Anyone on here?

Posted

Well, the 820i SE has finally been restarted, apparently this was down to an immobiliser problem. Now just for the MOT and hopefully a sale. Need cash for Turkey trip.

  • Like 2
Posted

The weekends antics have taken a turn for the worst, with the truck out of action, I'm off to the scrappy early doors to try and find a set of sensors.

 

There is fuck all info on the 4g15 engine in my Proton either online or on Autodata. So it's been a bit of a bastard to diagnose properly.

 

@nigel bickle did you still want me to rescue those gear linkages if I'm able? Anyone else need anything?

Guest Hooli
Posted

The old Merc 300SE I bought last year has been getting some overdue attention, namely to it running like crap when warm though spot on when cold. It would start and run well with slick auto changes until it reached 75c when the throttle response went to shit, making the box upchanges crap as they are controlled by throttle opening. The CO meter showed it was badly weakening with throttle.

After doing the usual vacuum leaks and buying a fuel pressure gauge set I got a bit more involved and wound the eha valve in about a turn. This apparently alters the fuel pressure differential. After a little fine tuning it is tranformed, lovely low down power on light throttle and sweet upchanges. The internet has uses. :-D. A few more jobs to do but on the whole it's OK for a 200k donkey that spent 8 years parked on a pig farm.

Have a pic of an unwashed Merc on it's test drive near Staithes.

 

attachicon.gif009.jpg

 

What's an eha valve then?

Posted

What's an eha valve then?

Electro Hydraulic Actuator apparently. It seem the injection unit has different pressures for upper and lower sections, this controls it. I think it needs fairly specialist gear to set properly so I used the blind guess method. It needs the fuel mix reset after adjustment.

Posted

The EHA valve is what I had to replace on my Audi - it was working fine but piddling out lots of fuel. Cost more than the car.

Posted

Made the pilgrimage to the holy grail today. Anybody in my disposition tells you there are 3... possibly 4 wonders of the broadcasting world.

 

Sandy Heath.

 

No pics of the mast because you'll judge me, but got some nice snaps of the 343.

 

post-19618-0-10783400-1468013056_thumb.jpg

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