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Posted

Shame she missed.

  • Like 3
Posted

Last 3 new Mk1 Mondeo base wheel trims in the country? Maybe. Arrived today.

 

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Posted

Jag decided to burst its top radiator hose today. I had just arrived at a restaurant for lunch when I discovered a river of coolant coming from under the car. On closer inspection, there was a nick in the hose that had burst, probably from when the bag was cut open when they were replaced 6 months ago.

Luckily, there was a spare top radiator hose in the boot when I bought it that was still there because there was clearly a reason the pervious owner kept it there, so I did the same. A 10 minute swap and water top up from a nearby tap and I was on my way.

 

So, the moral of the story: If you buy a car with parts in the boot, LEAVE THEM THERE!

Posted

My Sister in law's car is in that mess somewhere. Apparently it was horrible to witness (and smell).

I work not far from the Echo Arena. Could smell the cars from there outside work on Tuesday morning...

Posted

Gave the pissshat a clean todaypost-4771-0-61469800-1514992907_thumb.jpg

Car has a few marks as you would expect of something 13 years old.

I also cleaned under the bonnet -

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While I was brave I peeked under the scuttle and looked at the cabin filter. It looks original - in fact it was reminiscent of some of the clunges I have viewed in the dim and distant past.

It can wait until spring when it gets a service.

Posted

I have just bought another car. Blind. Deposit paid and picking it up after dark this weekend. AFAIK just one option was ticked on this car from new 30 years ago. Maybe two.

 

Considering a rebrand to ‘The Baseman’.

Posted

1988 merc 200E. Automatic- tick. Everything else- no tick?

 

Mercedes were masters of the base back in those days; plus I'm guessing your genned up about the crippling merc options lists from you prev merc ownership.

Posted

You got some bloody weird Merc specs. 

 

My dad's old 190, for example. Smoke Silver, auto, 8 hole wheels, and the rare brown interior.

It was a 1.8.

Posted

I now have everything I need to prep the Doloshite for it's return to the MOT station aside from:

 

1 - A numberplate bulb

2 - Any weather condition that isn't pissing rain or sub-0 temperatures.

 

Back to work tomorrow so will be back to working with limited time as well. Ugh.

Posted

Mercedes were masters of the base back in those days

 

Dangerously close - but not quite smoking the cigar of winners.

 

I'm very excited tbh.  It looks like a cracker - and very BASEic all at the same time.

  • Like 2
Posted

I started dismantling the Freelander yesterday as I have finally accepted its never going to see the road again. The intercooler turns out to be an almost direct fit for the Ranger, replacing its useless, pishy wee intercooler which is less than a third the size of this one.

post-17837-0-78890800-1515010008_thumb.jpg

 

And more importantly freeing up the space behind the front bumper for me to fit the winch off the Freelander, which required me cutting down the mounting bracket I made and re-jiggering it to the Ranger. Its not as solid as the Freelander mount, but good enough for the stuff I do....ie hauling the odd fallen tree out the way and pulling myself out of muddy holes. Its still relatively discreet and not the whole thing hanging out the front bumper like most aftermarket winch bumpers I have seen for sale.

 

post-17837-0-35296200-1515010037_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

And with it all apart, I am guessing the reason for non-functioning air conditioning is the main heat exchanger which as can be seen in the picture has swollen and bent out of shape....almost certainly leaking somewhere there.

Posted

Your back ! Woo hoo - good to hear from you again Dave

  • Like 3
Posted

Arrived at work this morning to find one of my customers Alfa 159 sitting outside with a towing eye sticking out the front. It turns out he tried to drive through a rather deep puddle. I didn't hold out much hope as it is a diesel, but after removing the air filter and draining all the water out of the intercooler it only went and fired up. It's running a little rough but may live again which is just as well considering how much money he has spent on it over the last 2 years. In other news I got another replacement key for the Rolls today, the first one they managed to mix up the key number and cut the wrong one. This time they have cut the right code but used the wrong key blank so it still doesn't fit, fingers crossed that it will be third time lucky with the next one.

  • Like 4
Posted

Is there a fuel burning heater on that freelander?

Yes, i took it off while I had the bumper off. It hasnt worked for a while though so I will be stripping it down and seeing whats what. Internet suggests either the glowplug or injector are common failure points. I will be doing a thread on it if I can get any joy from it.

  • Like 3
Posted

Arrived at work this morning to find one of my customers Alfa 159 sitting outside with a towing eye sticking out the front. It turns out he tried to drive through a rather deep puddle. I didn't hold out much hope as it is a diesel, but after removing the air filter and draining all the water out of the intercooler it only went and fired up. It's running a little rough but may live again which is just as well considering how much money he has spent on it over the last 2 years. In other news I got another replacement key for the Rolls today, the first one they managed to mix up the key number and cut the wrong one. This time they have cut the right code but used the wrong key blank so it still doesn't fit, fingers crossed that it will be third time lucky with the next one.

You’d think Rolls Royce specialists may do something better to justify their high fees.

Posted

Yes, i took it off while I had the bumper off. It hasnt worked for a while though so I will be stripping it down and seeing whats what. Internet suggests either the glowplug or injector are common failure points. I will be doing a thread on it if I can get any joy from it.

Don't forget the dosing type fuel pump that goes with it

Posted

You’d think Rolls Royce specialists may do something better to justify their high fees.

It's the Rolls Royce of key cutting.
Posted

Got my Sparkrite SX4000 that I bought from SimonBBC off eBay. I believe Accuspark sell the same unit too. Quite cheap at £30 and that included 4 spark testers too.

b2c9b150701966fe8324b2e773cfc194.jpg

 

Naturally the first thing I did was to rip the lid off. I can't say I'm totally impressed with the build quality nor how long it'll last though. Take a look at this:

11a4722e2879d5992ca090fac5e385d3.jpg

 

The green LEDs is haphazardly bent across. Looks like the case designer didn't speak to the PCB designer. The red LED with a resistor is bodged in onto the switch and badly soldered to the back of the PCB. While the switch itself is not a waterproof or sealed unit. Moisture and condensation will get in and rust that out pretty quickly.

 

The input wires are held in place by the back of the lid. No strain relief and worse, a sharp edge. Likely to chafe through and short out. As most older cars don't have their ignition circuit fused, this can easily cause a fire.

 

The two electrolytic filtering capacitors on the back are not secured and left hanging. Fine for products in the home that aren't move but in an automotive environment they're likely to fall off from vibration work hardening the leads.

 

The other side of the PCB isn't much better. There is solder residue left from some hand soldering. The routing of the PCB tracks is awfully messy and really not optimal. Looks like whoever designed the PCB either didn't really know what they were doing or did not care one jot.

7d7fc9db3d558cc26b842ac95b914f80.jpg

 

There is also no conformal coating on the PCB at all, so it's almost certainly going to corrode and rust away over time as moisture gets in. Before it does that, it's likely it'll cut out and die.

 

The input voltage regulator doesn't appear to either be automotive rated. As automotive is a hostile environment electrically and environmentally, it's likely this will degrade and die. At least they bothered putting a TVS diode to try and soak up some of the bigger peaks. However this is a 53v part and the voltage regulator has a maximum input of 24v. So spikes will damage the part anyway.

 

It's interesting they used a microcontroller. Not sure entirely what it's doing but I imagine it's probably debouncing the points and maybe sorting the dwell period. I may dig out my Microchip programmer and see if the memory is locked down from reading it. Then I can see what it's actually doing and going on.

 

Also concerning is the lack of low impedance decoupling caps on the microcontroller power pins. Again it gives off a design smell that the designer didn't really know what they were doing. Even a bog standard 100nF capacitor is better than the zilch on here and literally fractions of a cent. So cheap that a lot of Chinese PCB assemblers don't bother charging for them.

 

What looks to be a diode across the distributor points appears to be a late addition to the design as there is no footprint markings on the PCB for it. At least they used a automotive rated coil driver J-FET for driving the coil though. Probably the only decent part of the design.

 

As the design is so simple, I quickly sketched a schematic of the board. It's a tad messy, as the last time I hand drew a schematic was over 10 years ago when I was at uni.. I didn't include the input switch or red LED but that basically only switches the distributor points input directly to the coil output.

 

0ed35f9b6a6bffbfdf7baa463dafeb48.jpg

 

I honestly don't think I want to put this in my car given the crappyness of the design. At the very least I may swap out the switch for a waterproof one and give the PCB a spray of Conformal Coating.

 

2/10.

Posted

I absolutely love this site sometimes... 'I bought this new-fangled doodad off eBay, stripped it down and systematically reverse-engineered it to review.'

Outstanding that man.

 

SiC proving case in point the depth and strength of knowledge on here.

Posted

Now I'm worried, as that's exactly what I have on the Invacar. It does work, but I wonder for how long?

Posted

 

Considering a rebrand to ‘The Baseman’.

Hey DJ, Where's the BASE?!

 

See what I did there?

  • Like 1
Posted

Now I'm worried, as that's exactly what I have on the Invacar. It does work, but I wonder for how long?

Well I'm a designer, so I always like to make things to best practice, to last a reasonable amount of time, hit a cost target and to be designed for manufacturer. For me personally it does fall short in its robustness especially. However they do appear to work and as the design is simple, there isn't a lot to go wrong. So they're likely to do the job you need it to. My biggest concern is its longevity - especially under the bonnet of a car with noise, vibration and moisture. Failure won't be measured in weeks or even months but more likely in a year or two.

 

It would be interesting to see what Cobblers view is on the design. Where I design things to be made, he is the one who sees the consequences of our design decisions and what fails!

 

Also I'd be interested to crack the lid of one off that has been in use for a couple of years.

 

For me to be happy to use it, I'll probably do the following things:

  • Cut out the switch entirely and wire it so it directly controls the points all the time. Realistically I am very unlikely to switch the unit out. If I need to do that, as it sits between the coil and the points, I can simply disconnect the lead to the box and connect these two back together again. They're only spade terminals after all.
  • Support those capacitors with hot melt glue. This should stop vibration damaging the parts and making them fall off.
  • Cut back the metal back plate around wire exit and use hotmelt glue to seal the exit.
  • Spray conformal coating onto the PCBs. E.g. this stuff https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/servisol-pcb-lacquer-re80b
Kinda spurred me on to want to make my own mappable Ignition system - especially as the original distributor for my MGB is knackerd. Aftermarket distributors don't seem to have a lot of details on the advance curve of them. So they won't be running as the originals did. Also with modern fuels, the ignition timing isn't likely to be optimal either. It's why I originally bought that cheap £27 Accuspark distributor to play with. However that at the moment has been put into duty in the MGB. :D

 

There isn't a whole lot of hardware needed to do it, but the commercial ones are so damn expensive! Most programmable ignition systems are well above £200. E.g. 123 Ignition, lumenition (I don't think this one is even got a map - just an amplifier), Aldon Amethyst, the well known MegaJolt and et al.

 

The best is the MegaJolt, but this is designed to replace the distributor completely. Even though it is better to replace it completely and have a coil pack, it does loose some of the originality and unless you want absolute top performance (i.e. racing) I don't think its entirely necessary.

  • Like 3
Posted

Back in my yoof (late 70s early 80s) these were considered THE thing to have. Over the years, the Sparkrite lost that reputation and are now considered as shite on several of the old motor forums I frequent

 

SiC has just explained why this has happened and that the consensus of Sparkrite being shite is correct. Thank you.

Posted

Sparkrite alarms and immobiliser stuff is utter pish - always has been. When I used to sell that sort of thing these were GUARANTEED to be fucked in under a year, almost always due to damp ingress.

A misfiring alarm is a pain in the arse and an unreliable immobiliser is a nightmare....no way would I use any ignition-related stuff made by them.

To be honest I had assumed the company would have folded decades ago.

  • Like 1
Posted

I used a Lumenition ignition on old Fords back in the 80's. It might still be buried up the loft somewhere!

Posted

Thanks for sharing that SiC, very interesting. I fear that the full extent of my pre-fitment investigation and analysis would be to shake the box.

  • Like 9
Posted

Sparkrite ignition doohickey review

 

2/10.

I think I've got a 70s-80s era sparkrite transistor ignition doohickey in a box somewhere; if you fancy doing the same to it and posting a review I'll lob it in a jiffy bag. The comparison would be interesting, not least the relative quality of components.

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