Supernaut Posted February 17 Posted February 17 That's two separate people I know who went to Errol this weekend without mentioning it beforehand. Cheers! Anyway, my Powerflow drone box was posted away to a buyer somewhere in Englandshire weeks ago. I've been enjoying the bog standard rear silencer sourced from Poland since September.
juular Posted February 17 Author Posted February 17 48 minutes ago, Supernaut said: That's two separate people I know who went to Errol this weekend without mentioning it beforehand. Cheers! There was a thread, which is where we found out. Lacquer Peel and warninglight 2
Saabnut Posted February 17 Posted February 17 Indeed @Supernaut I even put it in its own thread so it would not get lost! I attend most Errol classic auctions with the Tayside club.
Supernaut Posted February 17 Posted February 17 Well, balls. Perhaps I should try looking harder! mercedade and Saabnut 2
Sunny Jim Posted February 17 Posted February 17 Fair play for your tenacity getting the timing chain on the Trafic done 👍 A view like the one where you'd just removed the front end gives me the fear - I wouldn't know where to start on a modern engine like that. Good to hear that you've got the Amazon back to a place where you're enjoying it too. juular 1
juular Posted February 25 Author Posted February 25 A small job with hopefully a large improvement. The silicone gasket completely sorted the perpetual valve cover oil leak on the Amazon, but I was still getting the occasional whiff of oil vapour. I figured the reason for this was probably the crankcase breather 'system', which on this car involves nothing but lots of fresh air. On the side of the block there's a flame trap and a pipe going out and under the car. But the intake for the breather is actually the oil filler cap which has an internal filter and is open to the atmosphere. I'm thinking that when I am flat out / high rpm this breather isn't handling the crankcase gases adequately and some is being burped back up into the engine bay and thus into the cabin via the scuttle. Here's the disassembled cap. My plan here is to upgrade this to the later filler cap that takes air from the pancake filter on the front carb. Firstly, a clean. Then welding on a bit of tube. Then sealing up the intake on the cap, which in this case is the underside of the petals. I'm using foil tape as a proof of concept, I'll bung it up with sealant at a later date if this all works. Finally, a bit of hose between the cap and the filter. So far this seems to have improved the bad smells. I still get an occasional whiff when I come to a stop, but I think that might just be the side breather pipe gases being blown around. At some point I might replace the side breather pipe with a line to the intake manifold and a one way valve, creating an actual PCV style setup. Then I can apply for my green number plate. Coprolalia, Banger Kenny, outlaw118 and 19 others 22
Westbay Posted February 25 Posted February 25 1 hour ago, juular said: A small job with hopefully a large improvement. The silicone gasket completely sorted the perpetual valve cover oil leak on the Amazon, but I was still getting the occasional whiff of oil vapour. I figured the reason for this was probably the crankcase breather 'system', which on this car involves nothing but lots of fresh air. On the side of the block there's a flame trap and a pipe going out and under the car. But the intake for the breather is actually the oil filler cap which has an internal filter and is open to the atmosphere. I'm thinking that when I am flat out / high rpm this breather isn't handling the crankcase gases adequately and some is being burped back up into the engine bay and thus into the cabin via the scuttle. Here's the disassembled cap. My plan here is to upgrade this to the later filler cap that takes air from the pancake filter on the front carb. Firstly, a clean. Then welding on a bit of tube. Then sealing up the intake on the cap, which in this case is the underside of the petals. I'm using foil tape as a proof of concept, I'll bung it up with sealant at a later date if this all works. Finally, a bit of hose between the cap and the filter. So far this seems to have improved the bad smells. I still get an occasional whiff when I come to a stop, but I think that might just be the side breather pipe gases being blown around. At some point I might replace the side breather pipe with a line to the intake manifold and a one way valve, creating an actual PCV style setup. Then I can apply for my green number plate. Does it need some sort of 'catch can' between the rocker box and the air filter? will it be pumping 'neat' oil vapour to the filter when hot ? Just a thought ...
juular Posted February 25 Author Posted February 25 15 minutes ago, Westbay said: Does it need some sort of 'catch can' between the rocker box and the air filter? will it be pumping 'neat' oil vapour to the filter when hot ? Just a thought ... I've retained the mesh / wool filter material inside the cap, which is the same stuff as you'd find inside a catch can. As designed, the flow of gas is meant to go inwards to the filler cap only, so it shouldn't be a source of constant oil vapour, just the occasional burp. The exit pipe on the block is angled to the road in a way that it creates a venturi that pulls gases through when moving. Here is the updated B18 system which I was aiming for, although I haven't connected it to vacuum (#3 below). That part is handled by the venturi. outlaw118, danthecapriman, Westbay and 1 other 4
sdkrc Posted February 25 Posted February 25 6 minutes ago, juular said: That looks remarkably like the plans for the inter-dimensional spaceship that were beamed down from space in the movie 'Signal' starring Jodie Foster. Fabergé Greggs, loserone, jaypee and 4 others 2 5
Westbay Posted February 25 Posted February 25 Ah, thanks for that , so once '3' is connected should work as you expect. 👍
juular Posted February 25 Author Posted February 25 15 minutes ago, Westbay said: Ah, thanks for that , so once '3' is connected should work as you expect. 👍 Should still work as the side pipe is providing a pull via the venturi, just not as effective when stationary where #3 would be pulling a strong vacuum through the system. That's the next step once I get hold of the right threaded fitting for the manifold, and the right side pipe with a vacuum takeoff. mercedade and Westbay 2
Lacquer Peel Posted February 25 Posted February 25 4 hours ago, sdkrc said: That looks remarkably like the plans for the inter-dimensional spaceship that were beamed down from space in the movie 'Signal' starring Jodie Foster. Contact, 1997, 150 mins. mercedade, dome, sdkrc and 1 other 4
juular Posted March 10 Author Posted March 10 Fleet news. C70 Nothing to report really. Drinks large amounts of fuel and turns it into really nice noises that make me happy. 240 Continues to be a super-compact family saloon. Reliably melts all of its fuses on a weekly basis. Amazon Some actual mileage has been put on the Amazon in the past fortnight. As well as generally using it to bimble around in, it has managed Twixfest, which was around a 350 mile round trip. Thanks to @gm for this video of the Amazon going for a bath. Once again Twixfest was a great way to spend a Sunday, which must have been extremely confusing to most bystanders and normal traffic, what with a long procession of absolutely random old cars being led by a hearse with a skeleton and a dog in the back, and a rubber duck on the front. Unfortunately I was still having some usability problems with the Amazon in that the noise and smell levels were making themselves known on such a long day out. This time the smell problem wasn't oil vapour, but fuel. On getting home I noticed that the float bowls were a little bit damp. It was hard to tell whether this was leaking from the overflow or the pipe, but nevertheless I took the floats off and gave the valves a good clean out. Then replaced the pipes. That leak disappeared, but I could still smell fuel. A lot of poking and prodding occurred at this point. I considered trying to bin off the air filters and replace them with a home-made airbox to try and stop the fuel blowback smell you sometimes get with pancakes. I also considered returning to the leaner ZH needles. None of that was necessary though as I finally found the problem. It's not obvious, but the sides of the rear float bowl are covered in residue and staining. Float bowl gaskets are one of those things that nobody bothers with as they rarely leak, but in this case they must be letting a bit spill out on hard cornering or braking. Simple and cheap enough to fix. Now there's not a single whiff of fuel or oil in the cabin which is a huge improvement on the migraine front. Big win. Next minor emergency was the alternator bracket snapping. To be fair I did a half arsed job of welding together two alternator brackets, so they were already pushed beyond their original design limit. I decided it would be best to weld it back together again and reinforce it with a bit of angle iron to prevent any kind of flexing. Of course I made this as neat as humanly possible. Frustratingly despite thinking I'd fixed the exhaust drone, the cabin is still really boomy at 60-70mph which is of course the speed you spend most time at. I figured it wouldn't hurt to make an effort to try and soundproof the bonnet since it's the biggest, ringiest panel on the car. I also needed to fix the nearside corner as it was starting to break away from the hinge bolt point. Sad bonnet. Chop chop chop chop. Bit of tin bashing. Eeeh. Close enough. Now onto the soundproofing. Some Bostik Flashband applied with a heat gun. Then some fireproof self adhesive bonnet liner. Here's the ringing sound as standard. And here's with the insulation. Back on the car, the difference is quite amazing. Big reduction in road noise and general engine roar, although you can still hear the induction rortiness of the twin pancake filters. The bonnet closes with a quiet thud rather than a clang that you can hear streets away. However, depressingly, the deep drone at higher speeds is still an absolute nightmare. I'm thinking it's one of two things. I might need to bite the bullet and replace the backbox. Or, I might need to check out the rear anti-roll bar. It's possible that because of the way this connects to the rear floor, it might be acting like a big tuning fork and resonating with the exhaust noise. I have noticed a general increase in noise since I installed it. I have also noticed a few odd noises coming from that area, so it's a free thing to check. Anyway, to finish off my own droning, we had an amazing day out with @Andyrew and @captain_70s driving the slow scenic route up the middle of rural Perthshire and highlands, on an escort mission for his epic 1275 mile road trip to the far north. 80 miles of quiet, scenic and twisty B roads on a beautiful day that felt like the start of spring. Heaven. The Amazon's radiator did decide to shit itself on the way home, just to make sure we didn't forget the chod god was watching over us. Six-cylinder, grogee, dome and 34 others 37
danthecapriman Posted March 10 Posted March 10 Brilliant stuff👍 Interesting you’re insulating the bonnet. It’s something I need to do on the Mercury as the original stuff has all long disappeared. Ill have a look for the stuff you’ve used if you reckon it’s good. juular 1
juular Posted March 11 Author Posted March 11 20 hours ago, danthecapriman said: Brilliant stuff👍 Interesting you’re insulating the bonnet. It’s something I need to do on the Mercury as the original stuff has all long disappeared. Ill have a look for the stuff you’ve used if you reckon it’s good. Glassmat HTX 10mm Under bonnet insulation for vans, cars and boats. High temperature resistant and moisture resistant. £20 or so for a bonnet sized roll. I spent £40 and intended to double up, but it was completely unnecessary, so I'm going to use the rest on bits of the roof. There's cheaper stuff but I specifically chose this for the temperature stability and flame resistance. danthecapriman and Jim Bell 1 1
juular Posted March 17 Author Posted March 17 Dropped the rear anti-roll bar to see if it made any difference to the noise. Conclusion : sort of. The middle of the bar was riding on the diff casing which it's not meant to do, but I found it difficult to attach in a way that it doesn't. It was amplifying quite a lot of drivetrain noise, so gearbox whine and clunking during gear changes were amplified into the floor. Interestingly I'm not sure whether the car handles better with or without. It's significantly flatter through corners with the bar on, but the slight roll without the bar actually 'feels' nicer. It didn't make any difference to the loud droning, so whether it goes back on the car is dependent on how much I can be arsed refitting it. Did a local car meet yesterday. You can see that without the bar my drifting has significantly improved and I managed to do a couple of donuts into the space with ease. This driver was impressed. Things have arrived for further experiments. Rust Collector, beko1987, loserone and 17 others 16 4
juular Posted March 18 Author Posted March 18 Well that was a waste of time. Thanks autodoc. I also bought a silencer from a 740 as an experiment to see if it quietened the exhaust system. As you can see it's pretty close to the Simon's box. However on a trial fitting last night it was disappointingly loud as fuck. Way louder than the straight through box, which is somewhat confusing. Need to do some thinking here. Jim Bell, loserone, Dyslexic Viking and 8 others 3 8
juular Posted March 26 Author Posted March 26 Another week, another mucking about with the exhaust session to try and rid the Amazon of the droning noise. I've been reading that the resonator that comes with the Simon's exhaust makes the tone significantly deeper, so I thought it would be worth trying to replace it with something else. Bought a length of straight pipe and a small Jetex silencer. Together these were only about £50 so worth a shot. Laid out here is how I planned to attach it between the front pipe and the axle pipe, with the old resonator laid underneath to show where I had to cut things. Also had to transfer the exhaust hanger bracket from the resonator to the new silencer. Everything mounts easier than the original Simon's setup, since the straight pipe has a lot more clearance against the floor. First impressions - definitely sounds much nicer. Sort of fruity sound, less deep. Exhaust no longer smacks the floor when taking large dips in the road at speed. Visited another local meet at the weekend, this time with some Scotoshite friends @captain_70s @rml2345 @aldo135 No difference in the awful cabin resonance after taking the motorway home, so at this point I'm thinking I've completely eliminated the exhaust as the problem. What next? May as well add sound deadening. The floor is quite drummy. Followed with some glass mat. Same on passenger side. Enormous difference in road and engine noise now, much quieter at speed. But still drones. At this point started to wonder if the rear axle is buggered or the propshaft bearing has gone, but since all of the noise disappears when you dip the clutch pedal I think it's safe to say that's not the problem. It's definitely an engine resonance problem, as you can sort of recreate the noise when stationary if you find the right RPM and hold it. So it's got to be engine or gearbox related. Ah shit. Lightbulb moment! Guess what I changed at the same time as the exhaust? Here is the new gearbox mount. This can only be described as like concrete. There's no give in the mount whatsoever and feels more like a solid plastic thing than rubber. Nothing to lose here.. So after being attacked with a 10mm drill bit and refitted, I noticed a massive difference. It still drones, but it feels like the RPM range where it occurs has narrowed massively, so I can now hold 67mph on the motorway without issue, and it disappears at around 75mph. Still very annoying though. I took a look at the engine mounts and they are even more solid than the gearbox mount. Grabbing the engine block and heaving on it, there is no give whatsoever. I remember with the OEM mounts you could wobble the engine around a little, and when running it definitely had some movement in it. I tried attacking those mounts in situ with a drill, but I can't really get in about it enough. Annoyingly since turning my attention to the engine mounts I've found a lot of complaints online from owners of various types of car saying that new aftermarket engine mountings are making their cars undrivable due to vibration. I've found a place that sells engine mounts for Land Rovers which will fit the Amazon, and claim that the mounts are as soft as OEM. So I've ordered a set of those. Fingers crossed! 320touring, JMotor, Scruffy Bodger and 22 others 21 4
danthecapriman Posted March 26 Posted March 26 That gearbox mount sort of looks like a Ford Pinto engine mount. I wonder if one of those could be a soft enough alternative? Those sound deadening sheet things are brilliant. I put loads in my Capri when I rebuilt it and it’s so much quieter inside now. All the drumming and vibration has gone. Glad you’re getting to the bottom of that irritating noise though. It drives you mad when you get something like that when driving. My last Mercedes Sprinter van at work had it from brand new. Fine until a certain point and then it would make a horrendous metallic vibration noise which I couldn’t find for love nor money. Tracked it down eventually to the stupid anti theft strap attached to the CAT which was resting against it and vibrating at a certain point. Bending the attachment point out a tiny bit was all it took! Scruffy Bodger, outlaw118 and juular 2 1
juular Posted March 31 Author Posted March 31 C70 After being treated to breakfast at a cafe since it was my birthday, I went for a drive. Since everyone was busy wheeling their Mums to the nearest garden centre, the roads were surprisingly quiet. It was such a bonny day, I just enjoyed driving for driving's sake and went without a plan. 240 Getting a bit fed up with it for no real reason. Once I fix the fuse box issue I think I may sell it. Amazon I broke it. Thought I was being clever. Instead of spending £40 on a pressure testing kit, I found that I could achieve the same with a £2 bike inner tube and a tyre pump. The source of the leak pretty clear here. Cleaning off all the epoxy repair stuff I can see that I didn't even get near the actual source of it which is the big crack near the pipe. I thought I'd continue to be smart, and took a plumber's blowtorch to the solder in the hope that I could reflow it and add some more. Nope. All of the solder instantly fucked off inside the radiator and the pipe fitting fell off. Oh well. At least I can go and have a look at the solar eclipse. They were right, the sun disappeared. On the plus side my new engine mounts arrived, and they look a lot better than the crappy ones I got from Brookhouse. So that's something. MorrisItalSLX, Popsicle, Dyslexic Viking and 18 others 21
mercedade Posted March 31 Posted March 31 16 minutes ago, juular said: At least I can go and have a look at the solar eclipse. They were right, the sun disappeared Did a lol. Enjoyed. Sorry for the troubles, but still one of the best threads around. rm36house, outlaw118, juular and 3 others 1 5
juular Posted April 13 Author Posted April 13 Big journey coming up in the C70 so it's probably a good time to change the oil. I really like how Volvo oil filters fit pretty much every one of their engines for 40 odd years. Compatible vehicles : YES. Back to the Amazon saga, my refund for the damaged radiator from Autodoc finally arrived - not without some serious fighting with them though. But at least that's over with. I never look at the Bezos scam site or use any of their services as I hate the twat and can't stand the way they do business, but I reluctantly did a search and noticed they sold the same radiator Autodoc did for fractionally less money. So I bought one. To give them credit it arrived in 5 days. However nothing ever goes that smoothly and I immediately noticed that it didn't fit. The mounting lugs were too far back. This forced the fan almost right into the radiator. It also sat far too high and caused the top and bottom hoses to not fit properly. The solution was as usual to employ Mr Angry and cut the mounting points off the car, then drill new holes for bolts slightly higher up. I also modified the top hose by adding a switch for an electric fan which I was going to add in the future. This all fit really nice now. Refilled and tested, I noticed a drip right away. Ah shite. I'm thinking the core may be leaking. I dried it up and checked it again and the dampness came back. I'm going to give it a chance and see if it's just residual coolant from when I filled it up. It's difficult to tell as I expected any dampness to evaporate once the engine got up to temperature, but weirdly the bottom of the rad remains cool even when pushing the engine hard and coming to an abrupt stop. It doesn't overheat though and in fact the temp gauge seems more stable than ever. Could it be that the aluminium is just that good at cooling? SUSPICIOUS. We'll come back to this. In the meantime I found an old 240 engine mount lying around and decided this would be a better fit for the gearbox than the shitty one I drilled lots of holes in. It's amazing how nice and soft the rubber is on the OEM mount. This needed to be modified though. Stuck that on and went for a drive. With that and the land rover engine mounts fitted the difference in NVH is incredible. Huge improvement . With that newfound silence I am now getting an odd noise and vibration from underneath the car when on and off the throttle so I think my prop shaft may be on its last legs. Cries quietly in Swedish. Supernaut, mk2_craig, MorrisItalSLX and 21 others 24
warninglight Posted April 13 Posted April 13 Great progress! The rad issue may be a Volvo issue. I fitted a late 1966 rad to my early 1966 car and had to chop the mounts off like you have, so it may be designed to fit 'most' Amazons, not accounting for the earlier mounts. outlaw118, juular and Banger Kenny 2 1
juular Posted April 14 Author Posted April 14 18 hours ago, warninglight said: Great progress! The rad issue may be a Volvo issue. I fitted a late 1966 rad to my early 1966 car and had to chop the mounts off like you have, so it may be designed to fit 'most' Amazons, not accounting for the earlier mounts. Reassuring to know it wasn't just another half arsed pattern fit. I forget that the later cars have expansion tanks and different shaped radiators. Checked it this morning and it has remained dry. Was it just my extreme cynicism of aftermarket parts? mk2_craig, Banger Kenny, Scruffy Bodger and 6 others 9
JakeT Posted April 14 Posted April 14 Cynicism of new parts is never a bad idea. if you’re keeping the belt driven fan, finding or making some sort of fan shroud will help it stay even more MEGACOOL in Traffic on warmer days. I recall reading from some engineer type some years ago how without a shroud the fan just pulls in air from anywhere as it takes the path of least resistance. If you’re fitting an an electric one and binning the belt driven one, sod it. Then you get all of those benefits the Kenlowe ads used to tout in Autocar. mk2_craig and juular 2
rainagain Posted April 15 Posted April 15 Great work, to cure your exhaust droning I think you need to fit a resonator to the mid section. If you google exhaust drone and resonator there's lots of good videos explaining how they help
juular Posted April 28 Author Posted April 28 The last few weeks have been mostly swallowed up by a long holiday before a sizeable career change, so I haven't really been in the zone with fleet updates. As alluded to, the C70 was used to do a decent journey from Falkirk to Horsham and back, all in over 1000 miles. In the process it reached another birthday. The trip was mainly for @MrsJuulars business purposes so I used the time to do a bit of exploring. It's been an insanely long time since I experienced the London so I jumped on a train and had a breakfast coffee and a wander before heading to Camden Market and Covent Garden. The next day I enjoyed all the sights and smells of the seaside. The C70 is the perfect car for a nice long trip like this. Insanely comfortable and serene and absolutely consumes the motorway miles. It wasn't even scary bad on fuel given a chance to stretch its legs, I'm going to say it put in around 34mpg. Unfortunately it did develop a bit of a drinking problem with the old ATF. I noticed on the way home with around 200 miles to go that it was acting a bit strangely, banging into gear or losing drive altogether. Checked the transmission dipstick and it was bone dry! Swiftly chucked in a litre of ATF and normal function resumed, but stopped every 20 minutes or so to see that it was losing probably 300ml or so each time. Managed to get to Lancaster where I bought a big 5L bottle of fluid which got us home with a few stops to check and fill. When I got home I noticed the trans cooler on the lower half of the radiator had a very slow but still troublesome leak from the top pipe. Not a big deal to replace but I thought I may as well dump the fluid and take a look. Oh dear. That's not a good colour at all! Clearly running low on fluid has burned it. I was surprised by the colour as I swapped the fluid a couple of years ago..or so I thought! I had to scroll back through my thread to see that I last changed it in 2020. I didn't even think I'd own the car this long. How time disappears. Anyway, I had enough left in the 5L to refill to the correct level and tested the car. It seems fine for the moment, but I'll get that cooler changed. This all means that my new main set of wheels goes back to being the 240! This has been sitting a while as I've been getting annoyed at the electrical problems with the dodgy fusebox (TADTS). Check out the white fuzz on every single fuse. I cleaned those a month ago. Several of the fuses have warped and melted due to the shite causing high resistance and heat. An attempt was made to clean and grease all the connections, but realistically I need to replace the fusebox, which I've ordered a blade replacement for. A bit of a general tune up was done (dizzy cap and rotor was filthy) and it fired right up and happily took me to the first day in my new job. Good old bus! Low ontime, Saabnut, beko1987 and 15 others 18
danthecapriman Posted April 28 Posted April 28 Congrats on the new job👍 I did smile at the photos of Pagham and Bognor. Not far from where I used to live and I did a lot of work around there. juular 1
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now