gm

A pound says they’ll be nicked by the end of the week

Can you ask her if it is still available to the general public ? I recall having a bit of a debate when I bought mine many moons ago

when you refit the seatbelt trim panels, you’ll need to chop a section off to slide between the roll bar and the seatbelt tower - should be easy enough with a dremmel type tool - or if you can’t be arsed, just swap them with the ones on mine that are ready cut

I had the same issue of sticky buttons on the Saab, a quick rub over with isopropanol soaked into kitchen paper and the sticky coating was gone leaving nice smooth buttons underneath. Definitely worth a go, I bought a 500ml bottle for a couple of quid from a pharmacy a good twenty years ago, it had been coming in handy for various things ever since. That door panel looks good as new, nice work

The only progress over the weekend was to strip the suspension - these are the kyb shocks and eibach lowering springs I was using on the mx5, going to need a lot of work to make presentable worth it though, the car did drive very well with this combo Then non AS mate, Michael, turned up looking for a bit of help with a sticking calliper on his modern* mx5 turned out the slider pin was dry as a bone and crusted with rust. A quick dab of grease improved things but a new pin is on order.

i have to say that, so far, it's gone remarkably well - there have been a few cock ups along the way but nothing major. My big concern is the engine - I only drove the donor car up and down the street a couple of times so it is a bit of an unknown. mx5 engines are solid things but I'll be happier once I've got it all built and a good few miles under its belt.

no progress yet, waiting for parts to arrive and stuck at work anyway next day off is wednesday, hopefully parts will be here and I can crack on fitting the fuel and brake lines then plan to flip the thing over

bloody hell, i thought that was paint damage on the door but it’s just the reflection of your runners !

an angle drill would be handy but it can be done without one, just go in from a bit of an angle. you'll need to remove those seatbelts too, and the wheel arch liners, it’s great fun* trying to hold spanners on both ends of the bolts through the chassis have a fun day tomorrow - it’ll all be worth it

If you’ve got the switch on the dash, I’d say you likely have the loom, check under the carpet behind the passenger seat for a three pin connector (or 4 pin if mk2?) you might just need the cable to join that to the window. Check for a relay that lives in the boot on the ‘inside’ of the number plate panel and a tiny fuse box on the aeriel base (2x15A fuses, hrw and electric aerial)

my replacement pollybush arrived this afternoon (which I haven't paid for yet, the guy said he would email me an invoice but must have forgotten) tools were assembled (the giant washers I used last time are now back in use as a vital part of the front subframe, i improvised with hub nuts and jam jar lids) which enabled me to rebuild the rear subframe again attached the ppf (power plant frame) and reunited the front and rear sections as soon as my brake and fuel lines arrive, I can join the two halves

Been busy at work for a couple of days but today it was time to get this bloody thing started job one : break out @paulplom's blowtorch and despatch the knackered bush off this hit it hard with the wire wheel and a couple of coats of magic paint - noice then get busy with the black and decker 90 x 5mm holes were drilled and rivits were inserted thus and then took out again 'cos I'd forgotten I need to run a bead of sticky black gunk first rivits were reinserted and today's tip top top tip tool was employed in a rivit-tastic manner and the floor is done I'd been a tad generous with the tigerseal so a healthy amount of thinners was needed to clean up but look at that - I've actually made a start - should be on the road next week mebbes the week after, then

Ouch ! I did similar with a circular saw a while back and it bloody hurts hope the car is ok

That big croc clip is presumably to connect to the battery, so the presence of a relay suggests it could be for a heated rear screen, there is a black wire running along the top of your parcel shelf that isn't standard and would go to the right area for the heated screen terminals. Seems a messy way to hook up to the battery though. Is there anything attached to the leads that come off the glass rear screen ? Your car is early enough not to have the loom as standard, even early hardtops had a plain glass window.

inside the battery pack is just a bunch of AA type cells wired in series - should be easy enough to replace with something like this there is a (I presume) temperature sensor in the middle of the pack to prevent overheating which should be easy enough to swap over, I’ll take pics when I get round to ordering the bits