The Doctor's travels through time - The End - of chapter 1

[EssDeeWon]

Hold on - Where does it say that water is escaping through the bores? Where does it say that the car has been losing any water at all?

So far we know from The Doctor that.. 

• The car was running fine before the top hose failed  (this can happen, mine blew a few months ago due to old age and being the original hose from 20 years ago)
• No excess steam or smoke upon start up
• Not overheating / but the needle has moved above 1/2 way
• No mayo in the oil
• The engine passed a compression test
• The oil level has dropped but the Doctor cannot confirm what the oil level was before this issue surfaced
• This pressurising issue started only after The Doctor refilled and bled the system

Lets not condemn members cars to the worse possible fate before the correct diagnosis has taken place.

[Ghosty]

Only a thought....

[DoctorRetro]

16 hours ago, EssDeeWon said:

Hold on - Where does it say that water is escaping through the bores? Where does it say that the car has been losing any water at all?

So far we know from The Doctor that.. 

• The car was running fine before the top hose failed  (this can happen, mine blew a few months ago due to old age and being the original hose from 20 years ago)
• No excess steam or smoke upon start up
• Not overheating / but the needle has moved above 1/2 way
• No mayo in the oil
• The engine passed a compression test
• The oil level has dropped but the Doctor cannot confirm what the oil level was before this issue surfaced
• This pressurising issue started only after The Doctor refilled and bled the system

Lets not condemn members cars to the worse possible fate before the correct diagnosis has taken place.

To clarify, the needle has not moved at all. It warms up to just below halfway, and does not go higher. 

I've never heard the rad fan come on. 

Faulty temp sensor / gauge? 

[sierraman]

Go for the simple things first before leaping head first into stripping the engine down.

[DoctorRetro]

New cap on and pipe bodged. Let's see what happens... 

 

[DoctorRetro]

Well, I idled it for about 20 minutes. Rad fan cut in a few times, so that is working. 

Pipes got hard, but I wouldn't say as bad as they were, it's difficult to know what is normal. Didn't feel like they were about to burst. 

Went for a drive for about 20 mins, only did a couple of miles but got stuck in traffic. No leaks from any joins when I got back. 

The last couple of incidents were after a long drive, so perhaps that wasn't long enough a test. 

 

Anyway, I'll still do a 'sniff test' to be doubly sure. 

[EssDeeWon]

Most importantly recheck levels tomorrow when its settled down.  Is there any air escaping when you remove the cap or are you confident this is now properly bled?

Is that top hose not restricting proper flow of water where it narrows?

[DoctorRetro]

12 hours ago, EssDeeWon said:

Most importantly recheck levels tomorrow when its settled down.  Is there any air escaping when you remove the cap or are you confident this is now properly bled?

Is that top hose not restricting proper flow of water where it narrows?

I'll check this weekend. Not using the car until I'm sure.

 

And yes, it probably is, but I don't have a choice since the new hose has split.

 

Do we reckon I should try to claim under the hose warranty being as it split where the join/seam is for the overflow pipe?

[purplebargeken]

I would, faulty hose, cooked my engine, blah, grrr, blah, grrr, shite quality, grrrr. Well worth a try anyhoo.

[DoctorRetro]

Came out to the car this morning and it had developed another leak, due to a bad fitting pipe - sorted that. 

Gave it a good warm up, drove round the block. 

Did the test.... 

I think that is pretty conclusive. 

Pictured next to the original colour for comparison.. 

[dozeydustman]

I take it infected piss coloured means bad.

[The Moog]

Yellow means exhaust gases. Goes green with diesels.

You can stick fluid in an open container for 24hrs and it goes blue again so you can keep using it.

At least you have got a result and don't need parts bingo. Ghosty called it right there.

[Stanky]

Yeah soz, as above thats exactly the result we didn't want. 1 Point to @Ghosty - you might still be able to pull a fast one and try and get a refund on that hose and claim it burst and the engine cooked itself and bag yourself a £50 refund but it'll probably give you bad karma.

 

[Ghosty]

On the plus side, head gasket kits for these are cheap as chips, and the job is doable DIY. Might be worth doing the cambelt at the same time.

[sierraman]

You might as well DIY a new gasket on it. Thinking on, if you sell it on what are you buying that’s any better. From reading your posts you’ve had a succession of nails recently, so instead of losing more money buying another you might as well spend £100 or so actually mending the gasket on this one. 

[DoctorRetro]

26 minutes ago, sierraman said:

You might as well DIY a new gasket on it. Thinking on, if you sell it on what are you buying that’s any better. From reading your posts you’ve had a succession of nails recently, so instead of losing more money buying another you might as well spend £100 or so actually mending the gasket on this one. 

I don't have the ability to do it. I will end up spending money and making it worse. I fuck everything up I attempt. 

At least if I roffle it on here, it has more chance of survival. 

Just feeling a bit crap I guess. 

[sierraman]

Get some tools together and you’ll be able to do it no problem. Take your time and be methodical. 

[MikeR]

it could be a false positive ,  pregnancy tests have a similar problem ...

and as you  have the engine running ok with that fantastic bodge , all it needs is a T piece and any bit of rubber O's can be used

reading up on them a bit of coolant can contaminate the test and give a false positive    ...?

some suggest draining  the header tank to help prevent contamination of a retest to make sure !

[DoctorRetro]

23 minutes ago, MikeR said:

it could be a false positive ,  pregnancy tests have a similar problem ...

and as you  have the engine running ok with that fantastic bodge , all it needs is a T piece and any bit of rubber O's can be used

reading up on them a bit of coolant can contaminate the test and give a false positive    ...?

some suggest draining  the header tank to help prevent contamination of a retest to make sure !

It's lost so much water the header tank has been drained a lot. It's almost plain water in the whole system. 

 

[DoctorRetro]

Here's my thoughts, represented by pictures 

These parts... 

Plus this idiot... 

Equals this 

And

So is it better to give in to this? 

 

[SRi05]

Jay has Snapchat filters on his profile pic. Jay is a wee fanny 

[DoctorRetro]

7 minutes ago, SRi05 said:

Jay has Snapchat filters on his profile pic. Jay is a wee fanny 

My thoughts exactly. 

[Parky]

Unless Jay is actually some sort of Mouse hybrid and you have just been horribly mousist.

I reckon have a crack yourself.  Get the head set, borrow my torque wrench saving a few quid there (I’m not that far from you) and give it a go.  Heads are nice to do (mostly) and you can probably get it skimmed using the Dave Numbers patented glass/sandpaper combo.  Clean the valves up for extra oomph when it’s reassembled and happy days.

Some sort of crank/cam locking kit might be advisable....

[sierraman]

‘200 cash today’ as opposed to 200 what? Postal Orders? Government Gilts? Postage Stamps? 

He sounds like a cunt. 

[davehedgehog31]

I have a head gasket kit for one of these in my garage, should be complete minus rocker gasket. 

[dave j]

That's if he ever showed up with 200 quid! When I was trying to sell my old Mk4 Golf for spares or repair I had loads of people stating similar, a couple of them I said OK to and never heard from them again

[DoctorRetro]

22 minutes ago, Parky said:

Unless Jay is actually some sort of Mouse hybrid and you have just been horribly mousist.

I reckon have a crack yourself.  Get the head set, borrow my torque wrench saving a few quid there (I’m not that far from you) and give it a go.  Heads are nice to do (mostly) and you can probably get it skimmed using the Dave Numbers patented glass/sandpaper combo.  Clean the valves up for extra oomph when it’s reassembled and happy days.

Some sort of crank/cam locking kit might be advisable....

I just don't trust myself not to fuck it up further. 

[SiC]

But what have you got to loose? If you're going to sell it for basically scrap, then there is not a lot more you'll loose. 

[DoctorRetro]

7 minutes ago, SiC said:

But what have you got to loose? If you're going to sell it for basically scrap, then there is not a lot more you'll loose. 

100+ for parts, stress, and then a 100 quid less as it's a non-runner. 

Those sort of figures make a dent at the bottom end of the ladder, financially speaking. 

 

[Fumbler]

I'd say it is best to leave it here and sell it as a car with a HGF instead of selling it as a non-runner in bits with uncertainty of it working again.