skattrd Posted July 9, 2015 Posted July 9, 2015 Lets say it's really oily, most of the oil had made it's way out of the engine and in to the exhaust. Oil was dripping out of the flexi just before the cat, so I reckon the cat will be full of oil ... I think I'll run it and see how bad it is, fingers crossed it'll burn off and destroy the cat.
skattrd Posted July 9, 2015 Posted July 9, 2015 Just out of interest how difficult is it to smash up a cat?I've never done one before, but if I took the exhaust off to clean it out I'd be tempted to get a long metal bar or something instead to break up the internals ... once the oil has been drained (most likely over me).
cobblers Posted July 9, 2015 Posted July 9, 2015 it's fairly easy, just give it a load of abuse and it smashes to bits and drops out. If you can't get a bar in just slice the side of the cat open, rip the innards out then weld it back shut. #
panhard65 Posted July 10, 2015 Posted July 10, 2015 I used to do a lot of Renault dci's and would remove the whole exhaust and leave it hanging for a couple of days to get as much oil out as possible then burn the rest off by running it. Unfortunatly on diesels they won't burn off just sitting there revving it you have to take it up the road. This is where the fun starts !! It will be a mobile smoke screen for about 5 or 6 miles. I am lucky being in the middle of nowhere but still managed to get stopped by the old bill once and given a telling off. I did have to put a rear silencer on one though as it just wouldn't get hot enough but it was a scenic rx4 with the rear box transverse under the back bumper.
alf892 Posted July 10, 2015 Posted July 10, 2015 When I restarted my 530 after changing the turbo it was v smokey...........it was a warm day and next door had got all his windows open. I could still hear him coughing an hour later. However the car exhaust ran clean after a brief blat up and down the by pass......and I had driven it quite a long way (20+ miles) with a very buggered turbo
catsinthewelder Posted July 10, 2015 Posted July 10, 2015 I may have made a sizable cock up. Last weekend I changed the clutch on the Cherry. To do this I removed the driveshafts then the box. Being as I don't know everything I was following the instructions in the (proper Nissan) workshop manual. Regarding driveshafts these went 1-4 get wheel and hub out of way 5 drain gearbox oil 6 remove driveshaft. Underneath was a warning not to pull the driveshaft to remove it as it might damage the oil seals. Obviously I didn't spot this until it was too late so when I filled up the box it all pissed out on the street. My questions are; Where should I get some new seals and how hard are they to fit? How do I get the driveshafts out without knackering them next time? Ta lots Rightio boys and girls, the seals are here, any ideas how I'm supposed to get the driveshafts out without pulling them? By the fact that the Nissan dealership got me the seals I imagine that the gearbox lived on in the next generation of Sunny or Micra.
Clanger Posted July 10, 2015 Posted July 10, 2015 Just out of interest how difficult is it to smash up a cat?Lure it in with a nice bowl of milk and just when it's feeling comfortable use the aforementioned metal bar... CGSB, alf892, mat_the_cat and 3 others 6
Richard Posted July 10, 2015 Posted July 10, 2015 Rightio boys and girls, the seals are here, any ideas how I'm supposed to get the driveshafts out without pulling them? By the fact that the Nissan dealership got me the seals I imagine that the gearbox lived on in the next generation of Sunny or Micra. Does it matter, if you're replacing the seals anyway?
twosmoke300 Posted July 10, 2015 Posted July 10, 2015 Hub nut off , split btm balljoint , pull hub etc back ( tie to something if reqd) so you can get on the driveshaft nicely . Use a pry bar to pop the inner joint from the gear box then slowly and carefully pull the shaft from the box . Bit of grease on the lips of the new seals and tap them in with a socket . Smear of grease on the inner shaft and push in nice and straight . Give the outer end of the shaft a clout with a copper flopper til you hear the nice click of the snap ring . Then refit all the hub etc alf892 and catsinthewelder 2
catsinthewelder Posted July 10, 2015 Posted July 10, 2015 Ace, cheers TS Does it matter, if you're replacing the seals anyway? I figured that it would be useful to know for next time and this time can be a practice.
Richard Posted July 11, 2015 Posted July 11, 2015 The 850's cooling system is filled with water at the moment because I was losing up to two litres a day from the water pump. The pump has now been replaced and I want to get some proper coolant into it again. Naturally the handbook tells you to use Volvo coolant and I cannot find anywhere to tell me what the generic equivalent is. I've read somewhere that you can use oats, that would be handy because Quaker's factory is only a couple of miles away. Any recommendations? Rusty_Rocket and Lacquer Peel 2
Lacquer Peel Posted July 11, 2015 Posted July 11, 2015 The VAG crew recommend their expensive branded stuff for the 5 pot TDi unsurprisingly. I'd just buy a decent brand of coolant and chuck it in, no oats. Richard 1
scdan4 Posted July 11, 2015 Posted July 11, 2015 The 850's cooling system is filled with water at the moment because I was losing up to two litres a day from the water pump. The pump has now been replaced and I want to get some proper coolant into it again. Naturally the handbook tells you to use Volvo coolant and I cannot find anywhere to tell me what the generic equivalent is. I've read somewhere that you can use oats, that would be handy because Quaker's factory is only a couple of miles away. Any recommendations? Red or Blue I believe is the question. I've always just stuck the numberplate into ecps website and it then recommends which colour to pour in.
DSdriver Posted July 11, 2015 Posted July 11, 2015 How does a brake lining manage to escape from the disc pad and fuck off when there is a big spring in the way to stop just such an occurrence?
D Spares & Tyres Posted July 11, 2015 Posted July 11, 2015 The 850's cooling system is filled with water at the moment because I was losing up to two litres a day from the water pump. The pump has now been replaced and I want to get some proper coolant into it again. Naturally the handbook tells you to use Volvo coolant and I cannot find anywhere to tell me what the generic equivalent is. I've read somewhere that you can use oats, that would be handy because Quaker's factory is only a couple of miles away. Any recommendations?It don`t think makes any diference, engines are all made of the same stuff anyway. I did experiment once and used neat screenwash as its so much cheaper. turns out its fine for around 6 months, then it starts to look rusty....
saucedoctor Posted July 11, 2015 Posted July 11, 2015 Having had a swimming pool in the driveway of my previous gaff, I now have a feckin moat at the front of the current one. There is too much tarmac on the surface of the driveway (it has a distinct hump), and the flags in front of the house have dipped adjacent to the tarmac, thus creating a Vee in which the water gathers. I cant put a freshwater gully into the silver-covered drain, cos that's what the downstairs bog empties in to (not allowed, apparently). Any time my sister comes round with her kids, we have to lift them into the house, bless 'em.Short of having the driveway dug up and fixed, no-one knows what to do. Balls.Anyone here got any thoughts?Cheers all.
Pillock Posted July 11, 2015 Posted July 11, 2015 It don`t think makes any diference, engines are all made of the same stuff anyway. I did experiment once and used neat screenwash as its so much cheaper. turns out its fine for around 6 months, then it starts to look rusty....I thought if you mixed red and blue it turns to nasty thick goop and clogs the whole lot up?
Richard Posted July 11, 2015 Posted July 11, 2015 After a few months of topping up there wasn't much left of the old stuff anyway. I used pink in the end.
twosmoke300 Posted July 11, 2015 Posted July 11, 2015 some places do a universal one that is safe to mix with blue and pink/orange apparantly
DSdriver Posted July 11, 2015 Posted July 11, 2015 Having had a swimming pool in the driveway of my previous gaff, I now have a feckin moat at the front of the current one. There is too much tarmac on the surface of the driveway (it has a distinct hump), and the flags in front of the house have dipped adjacent to the tarmac, thus creating a Vee in which the water gathers. I cant put a freshwater gully into the silver-covered drain, cos that's what the downstairs bog empties in to (not allowed, apparently). Any time my sister comes round with her kids, we have to lift them into the house, bless 'em.Short of having the driveway dug up and fixed, no-one knows what to do. Balls.Anyone here got any thoughts?Cheers all.If you wait long enough, and if the slope is in the right direction, you will find that Scotland and northern England are rising compared to the south. Something to do with the last ice age. Might take a while though. saucedoctor 1
Noel Tidybeard Posted July 11, 2015 Posted July 11, 2015 shirley rain water that has run accross an oily tarmac drive isn't fresh anymore saucedoctor 1
Lacquer Peel Posted July 11, 2015 Posted July 11, 2015 Original 3 spokes OAR ex-KruJoe 6 spokes???? saucedoctor 1
catsinthewelder Posted July 11, 2015 Posted July 11, 2015 Could you replace some of the slabs with something that would allow the water to drain through, even take a couple up and plant a small bush. It would obviously be very naughty just to drill a hole in the drain enclosure and let the water dribble in. saucedoctor 1
320touring Posted July 11, 2015 Posted July 11, 2015 Original 3 spokes OAR ex-KruJoe 6 spokes????3 ers
saucedoctor Posted July 12, 2015 Posted July 12, 2015 Could you replace some of the slabs with something that would allow the water to drain through, even take a couple up and plant a small bush. It would obviously be very naughty just to drill a hole in the drain enclosure and let the water dribble in. I like it. Thank you sir. If I drilled into the collar from the inside no-one would know.
saucedoctor Posted July 12, 2015 Posted July 12, 2015 If you wait long enough, and if the slope is in the right direction, you will find that Scotland and northern England are rising compared to the south. Something to do with the last ice age. Might take a while though. The Autoshite Effect in action. Despite there being a tiny bit of Volvo in the photo, I'm not in Scotland. Not far away, though. :D
Honey Badger Posted July 12, 2015 Posted July 12, 2015 I like it. Thank you sir. If I drilled into the collar from the inside no-one would know.Don't do that, the hole that lets the water in will also let the smell of the drain out. You can run some aco drain to the foul waste, it just needs to go through a trap with a wet sump on it, just like the bog. Cheapo option is to drill some holes at the lowest point where the water collects on the join between tarmac and slabs, it will allow the water to drain away. saucedoctor 1
saucedoctor Posted July 12, 2015 Posted July 12, 2015 Cheers, HB. Appreciated. I have a builder coming soon. to extend my back sitting room. He had no useful advice on the drainage problem when I asked him, but I'll put your suggestions to him. Ta.
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