KruJoe Posted April 2, 2014 Posted April 2, 2014 WHS^It'll only be damaged if it's left flat with weight on it for a period of time. Just get it off the ground, but don't leave it on a hydraulic jack (it may creep down again). Bobthebeard and mat_the_cat 2
Sloth in a bowl Posted April 2, 2014 Posted April 2, 2014 Will jack it up and put an axle stand under it. Silly question, as the answer is obvious really!Doh! Stupid question amnesty thread, gives amnesty to a stupid question, job jobbed. Bobthebeard 1
Bobthebeard Posted April 2, 2014 Posted April 2, 2014 Stupid question amnesty thread, gives amnesty to a stupid question, job jobbed.Confirmation that I am an idiot is somehow* comforting!
catsinthewelder Posted April 4, 2014 Posted April 4, 2014 Discovery 200TDi is making a horrible squeeling noise when you press the clutch pedal and is harder than normal to change gear, it also flashed up idiot lights for hot transfer box when driven down the bypass. HBoL says Worn clutch release bearingsworn or dry clutch pedal bushesfaulty pressure plate assemblypressure plate diaphragm spring brokenBroken clutch disc cushioning springs As all of these things are inside the clutch and getting there involves removing the engine or gearbox does the team think that it will survive a weeks worth of 4 mile each way school runs? I've got a weeks holiday the week after next so could do the work then.
twosmoke300 Posted April 4, 2014 Posted April 4, 2014 Broken clutch release fork touching the pressure plate ?
catsinthewelder Posted April 4, 2014 Posted April 4, 2014 I have no idea, I'm just hoping that it'll hold together for a week. I take it that ordering a clutch kit before getting the spanners out would be a good plan? I hate taking engines out and I'm buggered if I'm going to do it twice. I'm almost tempted to farm this job out to someone else.
twosmoke300 Posted April 4, 2014 Posted April 4, 2014 They are heavy buggers that's for sure. The worst thing though is the uneven distribution of the weight in the gearbox. As soon as you pull it off the dowels it will come alive and try to rotate towards the floor via the skin on your hand alf892 1
catsinthewelder Posted April 4, 2014 Posted April 4, 2014 Oh deep joy. I think I may have to take the autoshite approach here and run the Disco next week with ear defenders donned then finish the 1100 on my week off. MOT that the week after and fix the Disco once I've got something else on the road. WCPGW
burraston2006 Posted April 5, 2014 Posted April 5, 2014 How do I flatten the over mats in the car out? I gave it it's annual hoover but the mat on the passenger side was creased and rolled up. I've left it upside down on the floor over night with weights on it to stretch it out but this has made no difference. Is there a 'special autoshitters secret'? or should I bin them and buy some more?
willswitchengage Posted April 5, 2014 Posted April 5, 2014 Is this jizzing out enough oil to be an MOT failure?
Junkman Posted April 5, 2014 Posted April 5, 2014 Just give it a good clean before the test and you'll be fine. You should look after it, though. Those leaks rarely become smaller or fix themselves. Sigmund Fraud 1
Lacquer Peel Posted April 5, 2014 Posted April 5, 2014 Their cheap tools are shit, but their 'Expert' tools seem alright.
philibusmo Posted April 5, 2014 Posted April 5, 2014 Their cheap tools are shit, but their 'Expert' tools seem alright.Unless it's their slide hammer which is fucking useless.
Sigmund Fraud Posted April 5, 2014 Posted April 5, 2014 Their cheap tools are shit, but their 'Expert' tools seem alright. +1, most cheap 'Draper' or 'Sealey' tools are chinese-made shite. You can get no-name versions of them on ebay for half the price, but you shouldn't because they'll break the second time you use them.
Craig the Princess Posted April 8, 2014 Posted April 8, 2014 Wob and rattle can question. The Metro has had it's rear wheel arches replaced and I have filled over the welds and a few imperfections in the new panel.Here it is after the third (and hopefully final) filler session. Now the question, once painted with Metalic paint do you flat back before putting the lacquer on or do you get it flat with say 1500 grade wet and dry then spray?
Luckythirteen Posted April 8, 2014 Posted April 8, 2014 Daft questions x2... 1 - What are the big yellow 'POLICE AWARE' stickers for? If a cop finds an abandoned car they whap a sticker on it, I get that; but is it because they can't trace the owner, or there's something dodgy about it? Or they just CBA? What happens to the car after that? 2 - Why do Matrix signs flash dim blocks as you pass by? Is there a traffic surveying function on them, or is it some kind of screen saver? Or are they just bored, and saying 'hey'?
beko1987 Posted April 8, 2014 Posted April 8, 2014 Strap the child seat in with it and they can't legally disturb it, should pass but get an advisory. I might be keeping an old baby seat in the loft for this purpouse now all of mine are on booster cushions If I still havent got the rear seat fixed on the XM by its next MOT that's going to be my plan! Wont be a fail then, and I'll move the seat back when I get home afterwards to the working side! You'll get an advisory stating the child seat is fitted so cannot check operation or similar but its better than a fail! Both our cars have them anyway as I couldnt be arsed to remove our seats at MOT time.
Sloth in a bowl Posted April 8, 2014 Posted April 8, 2014 How do I flatten the over mats in the car out? I gave it it's annual hoover but the mat on the passenger side was creased and rolled up. I've left it upside down on the floor over night with weights on it to stretch it out but this has made no difference. Is there a 'special autoshitters secret'? or should I bin them and buy some more?If this is still a problem have you tried a steam iron. A bit of water and heat can often flatten materials.
Volksy Posted April 8, 2014 Posted April 8, 2014 Daft questions x2... 1 - What are the big yellow 'POLICE AWARE' stickers for? If a cop finds an abandoned car they whap a sticker on it, I get that; but is it because they can't trace the owner, or there's something dodgy about it? Or they just CBA? What happens to the car after that? 2 - Why do Matrix signs flash dim blocks as you pass by? Is there a traffic surveying function on them, or is it some kind of screen saver? Or are they just bored, and saying 'hey'? 1- So they don't get endless calls from the pubic telling them about the vehicle. 2- Not sure on this, maybe a screen saver. Or waiting to tell you a riddle....
dollywobbler Posted April 8, 2014 Posted April 8, 2014 2 - Why do Matrix signs flash dim blocks as you pass by? Is there a traffic surveying function on them, or is it some kind of screen saver? Or are they just bored, and saying 'hey'? Apparently, it's a 'handshake' between the transponder and the sign. Probably.
face Posted April 8, 2014 Posted April 8, 2014 Does oil pressure drop when the oil filler cap is removed?
Station Posted April 8, 2014 Posted April 8, 2014 Wob and rattle can question. The Metro has had it's rear wheel arches replaced and I have filled over the welds and a few imperfections in the new panel.Here it is after the third (and hopefully final) filler session. Now the question, once painted with Metalic paint do you flat back before putting the lacquer on or do you get it flat with say 1500 grade wet and dry then spray? Metallic paint always comes in base coat (ie it's completely flat and unshiny). You shouldn't need to flat it back. Metallic is a nightmare to use properly, snading it back will reveal un-even-ness in the metallic flakes.I'd just stick loads on evenly and then spray the lacquer on (flatting the lacquer back very lightly between coats if needed - although you shouldn't need to).
Craig the Princess Posted April 8, 2014 Posted April 8, 2014 Thanks Station. Will give that a shot Need to go and remove the massive runs in the primer first. It's going to look GR0.0000001 explosive-cabbage 1
mat_the_cat Posted April 8, 2014 Posted April 8, 2014 Does oil pressure drop when the oil filler cap is removed? No. The oil pressure is the pressure within the oilways, and not related to internal pressure of the air spaces.
KruJoe Posted April 8, 2014 Posted April 8, 2014 Correct. Dipsticks are only lodged in with gravity and a bit of friction, you don't often see them launched out. Does anyone have hints/tips for me about how to give caliper bleed nipples the best chance of coming out in one piece? Twice a day I'm popping out to lube them up (fnarr) while I psyche myself up for the job. What else can I do?
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