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Posted

Re:  Bickle's fog light.  Hobbycraft sell glass paint.  It's oven-proof and thus suitable for high temps, I reason.

 

I bought some orange after getting fed up failing mots for incorrect colour indicators due to the paint flaking off the bulbs.  Works a treat.

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£2.69.

 

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Posted

 Steam from your kettle for instance will be ~100 degrees, in a modern power plant Rover 25 it will be about 500

 

Posted

Steam Locomotive Content >>>> WARNING.

 

Ok.... anyone explain if merely steam pressure [as seen in cab gauge] is exerting force on piston crown when pulling a load OR it there an 'energy expansion/conversion coefficient' going on, with the superheated steam bursting into the cylinder?

 

I reckon this is the bestplace to get a half honest answer.....

 

tooSavvy

 

Coltrane probably answers it at some point here.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_ZwDUP6fBw

Posted

Sellotape and marker pens has worked for me in the past. It needed reapplication on the work van for this years ticket mind so not a permanent fix.

Posted

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REAR-FOG-LIGHT-CREE-RED-LAMP-LED-CAR-BULB-12V-382-P21W-FORD-FOCUS-MK2-/290770076134?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43b33f41e6

 

Just put a red LED bulb in. Proper red, and this one will be very bright too (unlike the ones with a load of little individual LEDS in)

 

That would be ideal for disciplining following HiD users, sadly my fog lights are combined with the tail light bulb. I can feel a bit of rewiring coming on.

Posted

Steam Locomotive Content >>>> WARNING.

 

Ok.... anyone explain if merely steam pressure [as seen in cab gauge] is exerting force on piston crown when pulling a load OR it there an 'energy expansion/conversion coefficient' going on, with the superheated steam bursting into the cylinder?

 

I reckon this is the bestplace to get a half honest answer.....

 

tooSavvy

The steam pressure is measured at the boiler rather than the pistons; if there is a superheater it is between the boiler and the pistons and heats the 'dry' steam above the 100C it would be in the boiler so giving a higher pressure. The higher the pressure, the more energy contained within the steam. The regulator controls the amount of steam that goes into the cylinders, you don't want too much when starting off as the wheels would just slip rather than laying down two black lines on the tracks ;) Once the steam is in the cylinder the initial work is done by the pressure of the steam on the piston, then the valves are closed, typically after about 25% of the piston stroke and the rest of the work is done by expansion  of the steam  inside the cylinder, until at the end of the stroke it is exhausted.

 

Is there also a stupid answer amnesty?

Posted

My policy has come to an end, the insurance wants proof of trade. Is this just receipts of cars I've owned? I've had about nine.

Posted

My policy has come to an end, the insurance wants proof of trade. Is this just receipts of cars I've owned? I've had about nine.

WARCRAFT has an assortment of business stamps and records you may borrow...

Posted

How did you balance them on end like that?

 

The witchcraft that is Blu-Tack.

Posted

This is a sort of half tech help query but is probably a stupid question. 
I was coming home in traffic in the 740 tonight. Fairly standard M8 stop/start/if you get to 50mph you're doing well stuff. Came off the motorway to wait in more traffic and noticed loads of white smoke coming out the exhaust. I know 700 series cars are well known for producing loads of water/condensation but it made me quite worried. Heater is still very warm and it didn't overheat or anything. Caning it down the dual carriageway for a bit cleared any smoke and it was fine afterwards.

My question is; Is it possible for loads of water/condensation to build up in the exhaust if you're in heavy traffic or is it a sign of something worse?

Posted

Atmospheric conditions?

Posted

I never thought about that. It was cold, wet and thoroughly miserable so could have been. Didn't see anyone else's car doing it though but they were all about a quarter of the age.

Posted

My R25 does a lot of short journeys. When I had the exhaust off it a while ago (to replace a heatshield) I noticed the rear box was full of water, as I could hear it sloshing around. I'm informed that this is normal. I do notice a bit of steam from the tailpipe when I give the car the shoe.

Posted

Hopefully I'm just overreacting then. It was the first time I'd noticed it with it being dark and all that and it looked a bit serious. Once it had been caned for a bit it stopped so I guess it's fine then.

Cheers chaps!

Posted

You get that when it gets damp like it is now. It's just something you're not used to I think after the summer.

Does sound strange when you're flooring it though?

Posted

Nope, it just goes "Roar" in the fairly accepted Redblock with a viscous fan manner. It sounds quite impressive actually, in a shouty four pot sort of way. 

Posted

SFQ sorn.

 

I've just scorned my t2.

 

If there was a situation where I suddenly needed to go to a vw based camp over, am I right in thinking that I can just go online, tax it up and drive off legally with a bit of a printout showing that I've paid?

Similarly, on returning home, would I be able to go back online and declare sorn again from the end of the month, nip up to the post office and fill in the surrender forms for my cash back?

Presumably in this instance I could continue to potter round in it for the month that I'd paid for as it wouldn't trip anpr? Or am I likely to be nicked for the somewhat antiquated 'failure to display'?

Or should I scan the disc and drive with a photocopy?

Posted

I know the MID is only updated twice a week if that helps. It's also handy to remember that it doesn't matter how often the system is updated, the black box of tricks in the plod car isn't a live system and is only as good as the last time it was updated.

Posted

You don't need to sorn online after, when you cash in the tax, you declare sorn on the same form.

 

IMPORTANT INFO TO EVERYONE ON A RELATED MATTER:

If you buy a sorned car and don't tax it, you must sorn it again in your name. The old sorn is cancelled, NOT transferred to you.

You get no warning, just a fine in the post about two months later.

Posted

Don't forget to check the scene tax status. You could always mutilate the tyres and employ the pineapple suitcase bag of rubble camoflage, plod won't be pointing their APNR at what looks like a flytip.

  • Like 3
Posted

...A small silly question here;

 

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Talk of Bremach elsewhere prompted a google which pulled up this beasty... More importantly, are those Vauxhall Corsa headlights?

Posted

That was my first thought looking at that pic as well, they're the right shape but are they not a bit big?

Posted

What is the point of sidelights?  Seeing a lot of people driving around in the dark with just sidelights on, presumably forgetting to switch them to dipped beam when it gets darker.  However, why not just use dipped beam?  In 12 years I don't think I have ever used sidelights only, I just don't see the point.  I assume they're a hangover from the days of dynamos which required you to be frugal with electrical items but that's a long time gone now.

 

On the other hand, it's probably preferable to the 2-3 individuals I've seen driving moderns with LED driving lights at night with the actual headlights turned off and therefore making them all but invisible from the rear.

Posted

^ My driving instructor said they're used exclusively for parking. Whilst driving it's main/dipped or nothing. Or, like the drivers round here, foglights, as they "look cooler"

Posted

Where can I get Citroen spheres (BX) replaced other than Pleiades or Westroen?

 

If you refer to the part, GSF used to do them for £30 or something.

 

If you refer to the procedure of replacing the part, DIY is very, very easy.

Posted

AEP Direct in Scotchland are good for spheres. They'll deliver them to you. Fronts should be a piece of piss to replace. The rears often seize in place and can be a bit of an arse. Where in the UK are you? 

Posted

You will need a sphere removal tool and a large, no, fucking huge hammer to shift them. When I did the XM, the rear two came off easily, having been changed before. The front centre was a cunt (but you may not have that), and the two front ones were tight but not too bad, hindered by me being a wuss swinging the persuasion tool so close to the windscreen!

 

Haven't actually bought any spheres though, mine were ok. GSF is the name that comes up first on the french car forum when the question is asked. I;ve not worked out who this pilades chap is yet

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