binhoker668 Posted October 23, 2018 Posted October 23, 2018 Hey guys, has anyone replaced the wash/wipe pump on a Xantia before? Cannae find owt online for it and I don't have an hbol. A good start would be, do you know where it is? They're cheap to buy on ebay, but not sure how much of a pig of a job it is. Anyone have history with this?It's an S2 HDi 109.Cheers...
Lacquer Peel Posted October 23, 2018 Posted October 23, 2018 Hey guys, has anyone replaced the wash/wipe pump on a Xantia before? Cannae find owt online for it and I don't have an hbol. A good start would be, do you know where it is? They're cheap to buy on ebay, but not sure how much of a pig of a job it is. Anyone have history with this?It's an S2 HDi 109.Cheers...I'm not sure where it is on a Xantia, possibly buried in the wheel arch somewhere. The hardest part is removing everything in the way of the pump if that's the case, it's probably accessed through the wheel arch liner.
binhoker668 Posted October 23, 2018 Posted October 23, 2018 I'm not sure where it is on a Xantia, possibly buried in the wheel arch somewhere. The hardest part is removing everything in the way of the pump if that's the case, it's probably accessed through the wheel arch liner. That's what i was afraid of ha ha - I have some arch-liner issues that I've been happily avoiding.
Richard Posted October 23, 2018 Posted October 23, 2018 It's plugged into the bottom of the tank. I can't remember exactly how you get to it but it's not hard. It's a service item, six months is a good innings for one of those pumps. Lacquer Peel 1
Mally Posted October 23, 2018 Posted October 23, 2018 I'd welcome a raised awareness of other such parts that are in high demand/command a premium as I'm a proper scrap yard ferret, I can always keep an eye out for any bit's you guys need, at cost obviously Capri Ghia wheels, £5 scrap, up to £25 in decent nick. You could sell me 4 now!XR2i wheels up to £20 each, but I have loads.Any Escort RWD diff is worth much coin. Full rear axle £200. Cortina 3/4/5 front uprights £50 a side min.Morris 1000 steering rack £60. MG Midget pre 72 rack,, which is a LHD minor, £60.Zetec 2.0 Blacktop engine, up to £150, if running.Apart from XR2i wheels and Cortina uprights, message me for first dibs please.
xtriple Posted October 23, 2018 Posted October 23, 2018 Really 'stupid' question: what is the best 'stop leak' type product that won't knacker everythng? XJ has an 'interesting leak: driving along, no leak, stop the car no leak, drive away later, no leak. All good yeah? Well, no! Leave it overnight, start it and it blows coolant out of the front of the car! Only about a small cupful but it's being blown out of the lower radiator grille and then forward. I am assuming that the rad is leaking a tiny amount overnight and then when sarted, the fan is blowing it out. Quite why it's being blown out forward I have no idea as I would have thought it would be blown into the engine bay?
xtriple Posted October 23, 2018 Posted October 23, 2018 Isn't that a bit 'severe'? Likely to block stuff up that you don't want blocking? Tamworthbay 1
Guest Hooli Posted October 23, 2018 Posted October 23, 2018 Really 'stupid' question: what is the best 'stop leak' type product that won't knacker everythng? XJ has an 'interesting leak: driving along, no leak, stop the car no leak, drive away later, no leak. All good yeah? Well, no! Leave it overnight, start it and it blows coolant out of the front of the car! Only about a small cupful but it's being blown out of the lower radiator grille and then forward. I am assuming that the rad is leaking a tiny amount overnight and then when sarted, the fan is blowing it out. Quite why it's being blown out forward I have no idea as I would have thought it would be blown into the engine bay? I'd be more tempted to get the rad soldered up if it's in otherwise good nick.
sierraman Posted October 23, 2018 Posted October 23, 2018 No, given that Bars Leaks was used by many Jaguar specialists to cute minor leaks. I’ve used it on several occasions and it’s never failed me. Of course if it’s a simple repair or a gasket then just do it properly. But sometimes it has its place to solve minor leaks that just won’t seal.
Mally Posted October 23, 2018 Posted October 23, 2018 We use Bars leaks, the crumbly stuff in a tube. Works well on small holes.
steveo3002 Posted October 23, 2018 Posted October 23, 2018 We use Bars leaks, the crumbly stuff in a tube. Works well on small holes.aka dog turd
xtriple Posted October 23, 2018 Posted October 23, 2018 I shall acquire some K seal then. Don't think any bugger round here sells it - ECP? It's a weird leak that only shows up after it's been left a day or two, when started it then blows coolant out of the FRONT of the car, bottom grille. Use it and no leak, park it, all fine just when yu start it when it's been stood for a day or so. It seems to me to be a small leak in the rad that is sitting in the fan shroud (possibly?) and then getting blown out though I always thought the fan blew into the car not out... but what do I know
sierraman Posted October 23, 2018 Posted October 23, 2018 Sounds like a leak from a plastic housing meeting a metal one, under heat the two expand then when it cools down it will not face quite enough to seal. I’d be quite confident that it will work, it’s usually about £10 or thereabouts at ECP.
taxi paul Posted October 23, 2018 Posted October 23, 2018 My folding camper thing has no front lights. Has a towing board for the rears. So I have ordered son quality drl things of eBay. I want to wire them to the battery in the front locker and then out a waterproof switch on said locker. So I can turn them on if needed. So how do I go about it. Can I Chuck them all on one switch or do they need individual. My other option is just connect all the wires to crocodile clips and just connect them to battery when needed. Thank you
Guest Hooli Posted October 23, 2018 Posted October 23, 2018 My folding camper thing has no front lights. Has a towing board for the rears. So I have ordered son quality drl things of eBay. I want to wire them to the battery in the front locker and then out a waterproof switch on said locker. So I can turn them on if needed. So how do I go about it. Can I Chuck them all on one switch or do they need individual. My other option is just connect all the wires to crocodile clips and just connect them to battery when needed. Thank you Depends, if the switch is rated at more amps than the lights draw then they can all go through it. If not I'd use the switch to trip a relay controlling them all.
binhoker668 Posted October 23, 2018 Posted October 23, 2018 Anticlimax. Car is now very very squirty - at the front anyway - and new rear squirty action is in the post.As you were.
tommytwo Posted October 23, 2018 Posted October 23, 2018 My 1992 Rover 820 has a Lucas A127I alternator (Thats A, One, Two, Seven. with an (i) on the end, which I am told stands for intelligent. It refuses to charge my Calcium Battery, as it only puts out exactly 14 volts and I am told that a Calcium Battery needs 14.65 volts in order to charge. Is this correct? If so, is my best option to find an alternator that charges at 14.65 volts or should I get a Lead Acid battery instead?
twosmoke300 Posted October 23, 2018 Posted October 23, 2018 The octavia is throwing up a code for a camshaft position sensor.Having a look on Amazon (which I'm finding great for car parts at the moment) and there is an Intermotor one for £18, a no name for £12 and a Delphi one for £35. Silly question, is it worth going for anything other than the Delphi one?What camshaft code is it ? Cam sensor codes are often caused by slightly out cam timing
Tickman Posted October 23, 2018 Posted October 23, 2018 What camshaft code is it ? Cam sensor codes are often caused by slightly out cam timing I got a P0341 and a pending P0012.I have reset them and now have not seen them since so I am fully expecting things to be fixed let me down at the most inconvenient moment.
twosmoke300 Posted October 23, 2018 Posted October 23, 2018 What engine is it Tickman ? Does sound like a timing issue
Tamworthbay Posted October 23, 2018 Posted October 23, 2018 Isn't that a bit 'severe'? Likely to block stuff up that you don't want blocking?It’s bloody awful stuff, after the joys of spending three hours trying to clear it out of the Volvo’s system only to be greeted with the coppery sparkly goodness after a couple of days I would cheerfully ban the bloody stuff. God knows what it did while it was in there but hopefully most of it’s out now. twosmoke300 1
Christine Posted October 23, 2018 Posted October 23, 2018 My Pajero came with thick coppery colour coolant..in fact the whole engine bay was and still is ,plastered a coppery colour but, it had a new rad cap, and the guy said the old one" fell off " it spewed boiling water everywhere and, nooo it didn't have a head gasket problem.. That's why it had a brand new rad cap ..so I bought it . £1000 8 years ago ,, Then i read on forums 2.5 td engines DO have head problems.. Pretty sure it was, and still is , K seal...I've had it 8 years , no antifreeze added , it lives outside all year round , tows a heavy horsebox , generally neglected etc. Starts instantly hot , or freezing cold . Smokes like fuck when its cold mind you ! It's been used for holidays to the Lakes , and North Wales and North Yorkshire, never overheated ,heater is toasty hot ..and only recently has had the odd pint of coolant added . I like K seal if that's whats in it !! And if it starts using more water , it's getting another bottle of K seal !!! If it was a xjs though i wouldn't
Tickman Posted October 23, 2018 Posted October 23, 2018 What engine is it Tickman ? Does sound like a timing issueIt is the 1.8 turbo 2003.I shall have a look at the belt over the next few days
twosmoke300 Posted October 24, 2018 Posted October 24, 2018 Or the little chain at the other end of the head / and or a vvt issue if it has it Tickman 1
Dick Cheeseburger Posted October 24, 2018 Posted October 24, 2018 Anyone clued up on common rail 2.0 VAG TDIs? Mrs Dick has a 140bhp A3 and it’s started playing up. First party trick was EML on or couple of weeks with no other symptoms. Next was limp mode, but only after around 45 minutes of driving, and on a long, steady hill, under load. It takes a real effort to get it into limp mode, put it that way. I’ve plugged it into VeeCeeDeeEss and the codes vaguely point towards turbo vanes, turbo actuator, or boost leak. I don’t get how it takes ages, and hard work to get it into limp mode. Anyone had similar? Scan results:“Address 01: Engine (CBA) Labels: 03L-906-022-CBA.clb Part No SW: 03L 906 022 BQ HW: 03L 906 022 BQ Component: R4 2,0L EDC G000SG 3066 Revision: 13H01--- Serial number: AUX7Z0H7FN60Y9 Coding: 0000072 Shop #: WSC 00046 412 00000 VCID: 75E679FB1CD291967E-80202 Faults Found:009571 - Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor Circuit P2563 - 000 - Implausible Signal - MIL ON Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 11100000 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 16 Reset counter: 255 Mileage: 205316 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2018.08.30 Time: 17:43:51 Freeze Frame: RPM: 897 /min Speed: 56.0 km/h Voltage: 14.14 V Lambda: 74.2 % Lambda: -11.0 % Bin. Bits: 00001110 Voltage: 1.900 V000665 - Boost Pressure Regulation P0299 - 000 - Control Range Not Reached - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00100000 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 2 Reset counter: 255 Mileage: 205933 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2018.09.11 Time: 17:50:31 Freeze Frame: RPM: 2415 /min Speed: 103.0 km/h Load: 62.7 % Absolute Pres.: 2182.8 mbar Absolute Pres.: 1723.8 mbar Lambda: 98.6 % Lambda: 75.8 %Readiness: 1 1 0 0 0
Dirk Diggler Posted October 24, 2018 Posted October 24, 2018 On a Volvo HU803 4 disc in dash changer (same as fitted to the roffle S60) is there an easy way to get a 3.5mm input?
Richard Posted October 24, 2018 Posted October 24, 2018 Easy but not particularly cheap way is to use one of the Yatour/Grom boxes in the CD changer socket. Slightly easier and cheaper is to use an FM transmitter, they are much more acceptable than they used to be. Dirk Diggler 1
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