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Posted

The climate panel is easy - 4 screws (if they're all still there) and unplug the connector at the back.

Posted

Zinc plating comes off in white vinegar. 

 

How can you tell if nuts and bolts are zinc plated, galvanized, or something else? I need some that aren't.

Posted

Hi experts. I'm trying to order an exhaust down pipe for my Mazda 323 Coupe. After speaking to BM Catalysts, I have narrowed it down to two versions one with an 18mm hole for a Lambda sensor, one without. The one without doesn't come with a fitting kit annoyingly (from BM).

 

So, as I can't remove the heat shield from the exhaust manifold, what's the easiest way of me determining the one I've got?

 

Cheers.

Posted

Look for wires heading down that way, no wires means no sensor.

Or if they are the same apart from that, get the sensor one & the most you'll need to do is get a bolt the right size & wind it in with some gunk on it to seal it.

Posted

Best way to get a 13mm nut with a pissed/stripped thread off an alternator terminal that just turns and turns and turns ad infinitum? One which won't just slide off with the assistance of a screwdriver or some long nosed pliers.

 

I really don't want to cut the cable, fit a new eye & take the alternator off the car if possible.

Posted

Look for wires heading down that way, no wires means no sensor.

 

Or if they are the same apart from that, get the sensor one & the most you'll need to do is get a bolt the right size & wind it in with some gunk on it to seal it.

 

Cheers, in a case of 'look before you post' it's bloody obvious it does have the sensor!!

 

post-20084-0-94722100-1536672756_thumb.jpg

Posted

Best way to get a 13mm nut with a pissed/stripped thread off an alternator terminal that just turns and turns and turns ad infinitum? One which won't just slide off with the assistance of a screwdriver or some long nosed pliers.

 

I really don't want to cut the cable, fit a new eye & take the alternator off the car if possible.

 

Nut splitter?

Posted

Have you tried levering the nut slightly whilst undoing it? Sometimes it can catch the thread.

  • Like 2
Posted

Polo 9N / Mk4 2002 amber steering light on the dash.

 

Been at it with a couple of OBD2 readers and neither has picked up an error code. Is that right for one of these?

 

Before I start hacking it around will check battery condition as pump needs a lot of amps.

 

What then? guessing that the steering angle sensor is behind the steering wheel and the pump I already spied under the battery

Posted

Nut splitter?

 

 

Have you tried levering the nut slightly whilst undoing it? Sometimes it can catch the thread.

 

Lack of space around the terminal and fat hands prevent decent space. Not helped with various wiring looms and pipes getting in the way. The nut does start catching then it slips.

 

As you can probably see in the pic the internal thread of the nut is completely collapsed.

 

post-24583-0-45599200-1536679620_thumb.jpg

Posted

And another question.

 

The Toyota has 3 keys - 2 black and one pale grey. Is the grey one a "master" key of some description?

Posted

And another question.

 

The Toyota has 3 keys - 2 black and one pale grey. Is the grey one a "master" key of some description?

As far as I can remember yes it is. Same as a red key on a Ford I think.

 

Keep it safe.

Posted

As far as I can remember yes it is. Same as a red key on a Ford I think.

 

Keep it safe.

 

 

Looks like Madam will have my key to it then. The wife & stepdaughter misplace their keys more so often...

Posted

Youll probably know but check to see if you can use that key to start the car.

Posted

If I couldn't get the lowest side packed out by either slotting a small screw driver up behind it or some thing similar then I'd be considering taking it off to drop it down for better access to the terminal. Make sure the battery is disconnected!

Posted

Ref the polo . Obd readers only read engine related stuff not pas . Check the battery , charge rate and the strip fuses / leads near the battery ( strip fuse for epas can crack . Otherwise it’s a proper plug in job . Usually the epas unit under the lh headlamp all corroded and wet tho

  • Like 1
Posted

Youll probably know but check to see if you can use that key to start the car.

 

 

Yeah it starts the car. Probably need it if there's any major work done to the engine in the future. I don't think it has an immobiliser, but it might do.

 

If I couldn't get the lowest side packed out by either slotting a small screw driver up behind it or some thing similar then I'd be considering taking it off to drop it down for better access to the terminal. Make sure the battery is disconnected!

 

Looks like that's the only way I can do it then. I didn't want to go down that route as it means removing half the bleeding crap in the engine bay (Air filter, MAF sensor, some pipework) then I'll have to borrow some star drive sockets from a bloke at work or my nephew to get the thing off.

 

Unless ultra-thin nut splitters are available? I don't think I can get the back cover off the alternator while it's in situ, which would make getting to things a hell of a lot easier, possibly give me the room to get a normal size nut splitter on the terminal.

 

Posted

Lack of space around the terminal and fat hands prevent decent space. Not helped with various wiring looms and pipes getting in the way. The nut does start catching then it slips.

 

As you can probably see in the pic the internal thread of the nut is completely collapsed.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_6398.JPG

 

Dremel & try to slice the side off the nut?

 

I'd probably just take it off to be safe though.

Posted

Is this possible with the use of a wire from my phone to the tv? And if so which wire?

 

So I have an iphone 5. I also have two standard lcd tele’s. Neither of these are smart tv’s. How would I go about getting youtube from my phone to play on the tv?

 

Chromecast, which will turn your TV into a Smart TV, and then just stream wirelessly. They're about £30 and they work far, far better than any rubbish "Android TV" box (which are never actually Android TV, but just Android running on a shit old little computer rammed with malware)

Posted

Thanks for the above responses...

 

Another wuestion not relating to the above.....what would be the correct grade of oil for my 2007 Fiesta 1.6 TDCi (which I am lead to believe is the 1.6 HDi engine).... I know these engines are quite fussy when it comes to oil and throw turbos for a pastime so just wondering what the correct grade is....

 

From memory I seem to think it is 0w30 or 0w40....could someone please confirm?

 

Thanks,

 

 

James

Posted

Wingz - some DVD and Bluray players have an Apple compatible screen mirroring mode (AirPlay) if they’re connected to your wifi.

Posted

I have a starter relay. I think it is kaput. Its for a bike

 

With 12v on one terminal, other terminal to a 12v motor, other motor terminal to ground. if I apply 12v to the trigger wire I am expecting it to click and current to flow to the motor and it to turn. alas, it does not. it does turn if I bridge the two solenoid terminals.

 

Is this indicative of it being broken?

Posted

I have a starter relay. I think it is kaput. Its for a bike

 

With 12v on one terminal, other terminal to a 12v motor, other motor terminal to ground. if I apply 12v to the trigger wire I am expecting it to click and current to flow to the motor and it to turn. alas, it does not. it does turn if I bridge the two solenoid terminals.

 

Is this indicative of it being broken?

sounds about right....could use a length of wire with a spade crimped on each end to bridge the wiring to see if it works.

Posted

You can power the exciter terminals of most relays with a 9v pp3 battery if it helps

Posted

I have a starter relay. I think it is kaput. Its for a bike

 

With 12v on one terminal, other terminal to a 12v motor, other motor terminal to ground. if I apply 12v to the trigger wire I am expecting it to click and current to flow to the motor and it to turn. alas, it does not. it does turn if I bridge the two solenoid terminals.

 

Is this indicative of it being broken?

 

Aye, provided the fourth terminal is earthed so the trigger circuit can complete.

Posted

I don't think there is a forth terminal - the housing sits in a rubber shell and there is just battery to terminal 1, terminal 2 to starter and starter switch (via safety relay) to trigger. I'd assumed the trigger earths through the starter connection?

 

Even with the casing earthed it doesn't fire so i'm going to say its deaded and get a replacement.

 

cheers for confirming logic though!

Posted

Oh three terminal relays, voodoo!

 

 

(I'd forgot about them)

Posted

Lack of space around the terminal and fat hands prevent decent space. Not helped with various wiring looms and pipes getting in the way. The nut does start catching then it slips.

 

As you can probably see in the pic the internal thread of the nut is completely collapsed.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_6398.JPG

Are you trying to remove the lead or to tighten up on the terminal?

 

If the latter, another nut should do, the stripped nut isn't going to stop new nut clamping the terminal.

 

Anyway, it should be a brass nut so quite weak, mole grips may crush it enough to wind it off, or even split it.

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