Ask a Shiter

[bigfella2]

There is nothing wrong with those injectors, not a noticible difference there to effect running. Can you do the trick used on vag and disconnect the MAF and see it it runs better or worse.

[binhoker668]

How do you know the ABS is intermittent? What are the symptoms that show this?

 

Ok.  As my rather long and fearful post said - I had been worrying over this for a while, due to varying degrees of 'surge' and non immediate brakes etc.

 

So I got up this morning and got on the case.  Citrobic work out for a good LONG while - much to the neighbours' entertainment of course, and then went here for some PUREST GREEN.

 

 

Filled up as much as I dared (the wee level jobbie dusnae seem to work at all), and then entertained the cheerful shopkeep with many more Citrobics.

 

Then, good drive out to the Citroen dudes at Langley Mill (on the way, the speedo stopped working) , where I explained my worries and asked their advice.  Great bloke said "Sure let's take it for a drive".  He drove me up the road and back and proclaimed it fine but understood my worries.  By that time of course, after it had been driven a good bit and topped up, I think all was well again.  Great garage - they will be having my monies when specialists are needed.  Some nice stuff there too of course.

 

 

 

So that all done, I dropped into the local porn shop for a wee hoke around. 

 

 

(Bubs, I DID try to drive around a bit in the hope of bumping into seeing you somewhere!)

 

I then set off back to Notts, thumping the top of the dash once or twice on the way.  Hey presto - working speedo!

 

So there is a moral to this rather over-wrought tale.  Don't lose your shit over self-fixing cars.  Just never leave without a litre of green ming.

I think it was just kinda tired from under use - both whilst I was in Poland and also from it's previous owner.

It's a very different beast to my S1 TD SX for sure, and am just getting used to it I guess. 

 

Drove to Doncaster Airport and back tonight at speed and in great comfort.  With much stoppage where required.

 

Thanks for replies/suggestions, and general amnesty for a 'stupid' question.

 

Chris.

[binhoker668]

There is an ABS warning light, which should go through some sort of sequence when you turn the ignition on.

 

IIRC the PH 2 HBOL didn't really give much information about stuff that was specific to the later cars.

 

Totally - and it does.

Have yet to find an HBOL for it - defo need one as I'm not a mechanic and love older, shitter* cars.

[sierraman]

Anyone ever used Pfinder Anti Corrosion Wax?

[Cavcraft]

Hey Ford lickers, how bad an idea is a Mondeo ST220 TDCi or an ST220 3.0 pezzer?

 

 

*Asking for a friend

[Dave_Q]

When I did that on my Rover 75, 3 of the bottles looked the your pictures, and 1 was near overflowing.

Look fine to me.

 

 

There is nothing wrong with those injectors, not a noticible difference there to effect running. Can you do the trick used on vag and disconnect the MAF and see it it runs better or worse.

 

Cheers chaps, I did think they looked OK.

 

I am going to swap cars with her for a few days so will try unplugging the MAF next time it plays up.

[sierraman]

Hey Ford lickers, how bad an idea is a Mondeo ST220 TDCi or an ST220 3.0 pezzer?

 

3.0 petrol a better plan. The V6 even better as they are practically worthless now. A lot of the diesel ones are absolute nails.

 

*Asking for a friend

[Cavcraft]

 

Hey Ford lickers, how bad an idea is a Mondeo ST220 TDCi or an ST220 3.0 pezzer?

 

3.0 petrol a better plan. The V6 even better as they are practically worthless now. A lot of the diesel ones are absolute nails.

 

*Asking for a friend

 

 

There's a tidy looking V6 estate in London, but they all seem to be quite big money.

[sierraman]

Come to Sheffield, when they come up are £4-500. Tax is a bit dearer and the fuel economy isn't that clever by all accounts. That's for a 2.5 though. Should be reliable though.

[sierraman]

Passat B6, diesel, hasn't been serviced in a long time, uneven idle, beginnings of the cam wearing or something a bit more easily rectified?

[Scotball]

Hey. Just looking for some advice, I have a honda accord 2002 mk6. Because of the hot weather I decided to see if I could get the aircon working so the first place I started to investigate was the cooling fan for the aircon. And surprise surprise its not working... however I noticed the radiator fan for the engine cooling was not working either which surprised me because I was getting normal temps on the instrument gauge.

 

Checked relays and fuses all are working fine.

I still have engine coolant despite me going on long drives etc.

 

I still suspect its overheating because the fans aren't turning of course.. Am I right to assume this is a thermostat problem? I had a guy replace my power steering pipe at the front of the radiator a few months ago perhaps he's done something? Just trying to give you guys as much information as I can, any advice would be very helpful. thanks.

[scdan4]

Hey Ford lickers, how bad an idea is a Mondeo ST220 TDCi or an ST220 3.0 pezzer?

 

 

*Asking for a friend

Recently acquired a 3.0v6 not St220, and am liking it so far.

 

Very smooth tractable engine. Not sure that I would want a harder ride though.

[twosmoke300]

Isn’t the 3.0 prone to bottom end failure ? The Jag x type is and one assumes it’s the same motor

[sierraman]

Not that I've heard no unless its not serviced. Not sure if its the same motor? Anyone know?

[DodgeRover]

Yes but only according to internet wisdom, never seen one do it in real life, our 3.0 Maverick did however do 20k with the oil light flickering on tickover.

The earlier cars were recommended thicker oil.

[castros_bro]

Peugeot 205. Radiator cooling fan resistor, the alloy tube attached to top of radiator for the slow speed. What resistance in ohms should it be? Anyone got a free spare one?

[robinmasters]

How can you tell if nuts and bolts are zinc plated, galvanized, or something else? I need some that aren't.

[spike60]

How can you tell if nuts and bolts are zinc plated, galvanized, or something else? I need some that aren't.

The plain ones I'm used to working with are usually black, going by speed with which they rust no zinc etc. Go to a proper fastenings supplier and ask for what you want.

[666jjp]

Air con help please, I have not had it before but had the Vectra regassed three weeks ago. the guy wasn't sure if it would work as it looked like it hadn't been done from new (2002).

Was working nice and cold until a few days ago. You can hear the gas but the air is not cold anymore.

Is there anything/where I need to be looking?

[Dave_Q]

How can you tell if nuts and bolts are zinc plated, galvanized, or something else? I need some that aren't.

Pretty much every fastener is coated in something or they would arrive at the shop rusty.

 

Generally silver ones are zinc plated, black is a phosphate coating. Why do you need non coated?

[DodgeRover]

Air con help please, I have not had it before but had the Vectra regassed three weeks ago. the guy wasn't sure if it would work as it looked like it hadn't been done from new (2002).

Was working nice and cold until a few days ago. You can hear the gas but the air is not cold anymore.

Is there anything/where I need to be looking?

Is the A/C belt slipping? Is the compressor turning when you activate the a/c?

Did he vacuum test it before refilling?

[666jjp]

Is the A/C belt slipping? Is the compressor turning when you activate the a/c?

Did he vacuum test it before refilling?

He did vacuum test it and as I said it was fine for a while. Haven't checked under the bonnet yet, wanted to check here if there was a known problem.

Would there be a squeal if the A/C belt was slipping similar to fan belt slippage, if so then no as it seems quiet. Will check these tomorrow.

[wuvvum]

Another 205 question.

 

Since it's been MOT'd it's developed a habit of occasionally putting the temp warning light on for no apparent reason.  It's been getting worse, and today it's been on constantly. 

 

I had a poke around under the bonnet and there are two things which look like they could be temp sensors, very close to each other.  One of them (the one with the black terminal) has a nice healthy 14v going to it with the engine running, the other has nothing at all - and isn't an earth either.  Unplugging either or both makes no difference to the light situation.

 

I'm obviously missing something because it would make no sense to me to have two temp sensors so close together, but there's obviously an issue somewhere.  My HBOL is no help as it only covers petrol engines.  Any pointers appreciated before I take the coward's way out and remove the bulbs.

 

[Eddie Honda]

One is hot and the other is fucked. XUD book at home.

Try this. I think it's my old PDF 14MB link

 

Citroen_Diesel_Engine_1984-1996_autorepman.com.pdf

[garethj]

How can you tell if nuts and bolts are zinc plated, galvanized, or something else? I need some that aren't.

 

Galvanised fasteners are unusual on cars because the zinc coating bungs up the threads, it's normally on things like tractor accessories for M20 bolts and stuff.  Most fasteners are mild steel and either BZP (bright zinc plated) or nickel plated.

 

Black fasteners can be done with a number of processes, chemical black is the most common.

 

Stainless steel fasteners have no coating, they're available as A2 (equivalent to 304 stainless) or A4 (equivalent to 316 stainless).  They're usually a dull finish compared to the shiny BZP or nickel plated ones but their corrosion protection is much better.  A2 are pretty good but A4 are better and almost twice the price.

 

Finally, when you're using fasteners, don't forget to have a quick look at a table of noble materials to check how galvanic corrosion will affect things.  Even the manufacturers get this wrong as I saw last week - there was a stainless steel bolt on the outside, rust protection innit, but a mild steel BZP nut on the inside where water won't get in and it won't rust.  Wrong, because after 6 months the less noble steel nut was rusting like a bastard.  Moral of the story, use the same material nut as bolt and if it's different to the material you're clamping then use an insulating washer between them.

[M'coli]

Does anyone know how to unseize a seized-up PSA rear beam? The ZX estate's is seized solid having being off the road since September last year, and it's an MOT failure.

[D Spares & Tyres]

Boot load of bricks

 

You could drill a hole in the main tube and put old engine oil in it, that will give it a bit more life but it will need changing eventually.

 

I've done both

[M'coli]

I've got it on wooden blocks at opposite corners so it's a bit like a wobbly chair at the moment...

[twosmoke300]

If its seized then the bearings are fucked . If it does free off then it will be wobbly as fuck after a run round the block anyway.

 

New beam im afraid

[Parky]

How much should a cambelt replacement be for a Seat Leon 1.6 (same underneath as a mk5 Golf)?

 

It’s a simple 8v ohc lump and I need the belt, tensioner and water pump done.

 

Last time an Audi VW specialist did it on my driveway in the snow (2013) for £300 using genuine VW parts. Today they quoted me £450 for the same but I have to take it to them. 50% increase seems a tad high to me.

 

Which leads me to the next question - any forum preferences or recommendations re aftermarket parts? Febi Bilstein, Gates, SKF, Or ContiTech for example? Am sure all are fine but wondered if any pros had any useful experience of these bits.

 

I would do it myself but (a) can’t be arsed and ( last time I did a belt I got the timing wrong - luckily non interference motor but my mate was not pleased with me!