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Posted

The corrosion visable there shouldn't be a problem but if in doubt take the piston out clean it and reasssemble with some red grease

  • Like 1
Posted

Someone will buy it for more than bridge money it looks nice other than it doesn't work.

Depends on how much satisfaction you'll get from seeing it crushed .

  • Like 2
Posted

I believe the site is still being decontaminated. And it's in Genk, not Ghent. Volvo have a factory in Ghent. Bloody Belgians with their confusing names!

Thanks, I should know as I've been to the lovely, nonindustrial Ghent!

Posted

Is there any point in trying to sell this as a non runner or should I just weigh it in for £150?

 

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What's the story on it Richard? I need to tinker with something now the nights are drawing in.

Posted

Vernier Calipers.

 

I have a forged steel vernier caliper that I got in a garage sale a while back. Its good but rusty, and the rust obscures the measuring bit in various places making it a bit of a sod to use. I can get a new set for £13 from Toolstation but the reviews are a bit shit, is it viable to use a rust converter on a steel tool? The action is fine, its just surface rust patches on the flat surfaces which rather detract from the whole experience. ultra-fine detail isn't that important, if its correct to the nearest mm thats fine for almost everything I need to use it for.

Posted

Yes. You clear the code and turn the ignition on, the lift pump runs for a bit then the light comes on again.

What turbo is fitted to these? Might be interested in the new one if there are no takers complete

Posted

I've had a go at that with a brillo pad and some WD40 a while back and the rust seems to have returned. I suspect its had it, but wanted to ask to see if there was any hope. You can spend a LOT of money on them it turns out...

Posted

Are rear axle trailing arm bushes something you expect to replace during the average lifetime of a car?

Posted

I've had a go at that with a brillo pad and some WD40 a while back and the rust seems to have returned. I suspect its had it, but wanted to ask to see if there was any hope. You can spend a LOT of money on them it turns out...

Are you keeping it near acid? Alloy wheel cleaner makes everything in the workshop rusty quick as fuck. 

Posted

Are rear axle trailing arm bushes something you expect to replace during the average lifetime of a car?

How old is the car and what type of bush? If its a Lotus they will be shagged shortly after leaving the showroom. Rubber bushes fare better but won't last forever.

Posted

Also how desperately do these front arb bushes need doing? Also Fusion.

 

post-20084-0-67539700-1506855413_thumb.jpg

Posted

Don't worry about them unless they're making a row. They still look tight round the ARB so they're OK for a while yet, despite looking pretty crusty.

Posted

Are you keeping it near acid? Alloy wheel cleaner makes everything in the workshop rusty quick as fuck. 

 

Nope, its been in a toolbox with just other metal and wooden tools since I've owned it - nowhere near anything acidic as far as I'm aware. its now in a tool chest.

 

I've found a half-decent looking one on ebay for £11 so might go for that.

Posted

Nope, its been in a toolbox with just other metal and wooden tools since I've owned it - nowhere near anything acidic as far as I'm aware. its now in a tool chest.

 

I've found a half-decent looking one on ebay for £11 so might go for that.

 

You know those decessant bags you get with computer stuff? I always put some of them in my toolbox & swap them out with the ones by the fire now & then.

  • Like 2
Posted

Are rear axle trailing arm bushes something you expect to replace during the average lifetime of a car?

 

Every six months on a goona2

Posted

Are rear axle trailing arm bushes something you expect to replace during the average lifetime of a car?

Yes, on a Focus they can go. Not a driveway job, the bolts routinely shear during this job.

Posted

One more cos I'm on a roll, what about the condition of the rubber bits here on the rear struts, Fusion again....post-20084-0-60877500-1506870898_thumb.jpg

Posted

I suspect that's the bump stop, if you don't bottom it out & get nasty clunks very often I'd ignore it.

Posted

That's fine, they usually perish and fall off. Fail if it's pissing fluid out or it's no longer damping effectively.

Posted

In 'the driven man' the Rowan Atkinson car doc from 1990/1, was Roderick the posh crazy minicab driver a total set up??

 

Posted

Front brake calliper on the Santa Fe has one siezed piston. When I say siezed, I mean that while it will push out using the brake pedal, it won't fully retract. Think I've knackered my braking winding in tool trying to push the piston in. The pad has worn at an angle as it is a twin pot.

 

Question is, is it worth trying to fix this with a new piston and seal kit. It would certainly be much cheaper than a new caliper.

Will I have to ream out the cylinder and is it likely I'll end up with brake fluid pishing out and a trail of Mother Theresas in my wake?

Posted

This is probably a daft question?.

 

A conversation I had earlier with someone.

 

WHen driving as you usually do, do you depress the clutch pedal all the way to the floor when you need to change gear? or do you do it to the point in the pedal where the clutch is no longer engaged?

 

 

Posted

Just press it all the way. Removes any uncertainty and won't harm anything...

  • Like 2
Posted

This is probably a daft question?. . .

 

Maybe put it in the Stupid Question Amnesty thread then.

Posted

Maybe put it in the Stupid Question Amnesty thread then.

Yes, good point forgot about that thread!

Posted

If you need to floor the clutch it isn't engaging properly, 3/4 I'd say from rest and 2/3 while driving should be sufficient.

  • Like 1

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