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Posted

Astra H - are all the autoboxes fitted to these made of chocolate, or is it just certain types? I have in my head that there are two different auto's on these but that could have been a dream.

Posted

Is clutch judder anything to worry about? My car does it when it's a cold/damp morning for the first mile or so, though oddly doesn't do it straight away - it does it between about 0.5-1 mile into the journey then never again.

 

It also grinds going into 2nd if when I'm pulling out of my street, then sometimes does one grind into 3rd at about the 1 mile mark. The grind into 3rd feels more like a reluctant linkage on the gearstick end rather than the actual gears and I can drive round the grind into 2nd.

 

Other than that it's absolutely fine in all gears for the rest of the journey. I had the box oil changed at 45k to try and cure it but it's the same now (64k). I'm still deciding whether to sack it off and get something else.

 

mines done the clutch judder first pull away for like 18 years lol 

 

the grind might go away if you refill the box with a good quality modern fully syth oil , older oils can be thick until the cars done a few miles causing the grind...although sounds like the syncro is worn , so take those first few changes carefully to prolong its life

Posted

Astra H - are all the autoboxes fitted to these made of chocolate, or is it just certain types? I have in my head that there are two different auto's on these but that could have been a dream.

One is certainly an automated manual, called Easytronic.  Like all of these types, I'd avoid it.  My brother had one for years, it was 'ok ish' but when the clutch finally gave up, it refused to even drag itself away from the lights.

The difference is, if it were a manual, the driver would have noticed a problem months beforehand and had the thing fixed.

Didn't the better spec'd cars have the option of a proper ZF autobox?

Guest Hooli
Posted

Is clutch judder anything to worry about? My car does it when it's a cold/damp morning for the first mile or so, though oddly doesn't do it straight away - it does it between about 0.5-1 mile into the journey then never again.

 

It also grinds going into 2nd if when I'm pulling out of my street, then sometimes does one grind into 3rd at about the 1 mile mark. The grind into 3rd feels more like a reluctant linkage on the gearstick end rather than the actual gears and I can drive round the grind into 2nd.

 

Other than that it's absolutely fine in all gears for the rest of the journey. I had the box oil changed at 45k to try and cure it but it's the same now (64k). I'm still deciding whether to sack it off and get something else.

 

Sounds more like a contaminated clutch than a gearbox issue. Does it use any oil? I'm thinking of a weeping rear main seal dripping oil on the clutch.

Posted

Get a new thrust bearing guide sleeve first - it will be buggered . Also I'd change the drive shaft oil seals while it's out too . They love to leak once they have been disturbed . The os drive shaft centre bearing is held in by two bolts with an offset head - undo the two 11mm nuts until the bolts rotate enough to realise the bearing.

The crank sensor lives right under the coolant housing and its wise to remove this before taking the box out incase you damage it . It's on a 10mm stepped bolt that only needs to be slackened and the sensor twists and lifts out .

Gear linkage rods are a twat - be aware that some use rubber mountings on the balls and they love to break . Try and twist off with an adjustable spanner of pry off carefully . Good luck

Sounds like you have done that once or twice before! Many thanks, points duly noted and seals and bearing sleeve added to order.

 

Have met the dog bone links of doom on this before. The Peugeot Breaker in Bristol has tubs of them, but is a nightmare to get to. Buried in Brislington. I'll be gentle. They're NLA new amazingly! It's an 03 reg.

 

Is there a cheat for aligning the clutch plate or do I have to buy yet another tool that I'll likely use once only.

 

Again, Many thanks for this.

Posted

One is certainly an automated manual, called Easytronic. Like all of these types, I'd avoid it. My brother had one for years, it was 'ok ish' but when the clutch finally gave up, it refused to even drag itself away from the lights.

The difference is, if it were a manual, the driver would have noticed a problem months beforehand and had the thing fixed.

Didn't the better spec'd cars have the option of a proper ZF autobox?

1.6 is easybollox - 1.8 is a "proper" auto AFAIK

Posted

Valeo clutches used to come with a plastic alignment tool but I don't know if they still do .

You can do it by eye but if it's your first time and it's on the floor I'd get one of the cheap plastic expanding tools . My draper one must have done 100 clutches by now

Posted

I have a Flickr account with loads of old cars/motorcycle pics but have noticed that lately they have been "faved" by loads of young wimmen. Now I am sure they are not in the least interested in my photos of old motorcycle indicators for example so why do they "fave" them?

Posted

Is clutch judder anything to worry about? My car does it when it's a cold/damp morning for the first mile or so, though oddly doesn't do it straight away - it does it between about 0.5-1 mile into the journey then never again.

 

It also grinds going into 2nd if when I'm pulling out of my street, then sometimes does one grind into 3rd at about the 1 mile mark. The grind into 3rd feels more like a reluctant linkage on the gearstick end rather than the actual gears and I can drive round the grind into 2nd.

 

Other than that it's absolutely fine in all gears for the rest of the journey. I had the box oil changed at 45k to try and cure it but it's the same now (64k). I'm still deciding whether to sack it off and get something else.

I had a Renault 16 that did this - judder when cold and then some clutch 'drag' when hot making gear changes 'crunchy'. Got to me in the end and found it was a tiny amount of gearbox oil migrating along the first motion shaft and getting into the linings. Spraying a bit of methylated spirits into bell housing to 'wash' the clutch improved it for a while...

 

Squirrel2

Guest Hooli
Posted

Says Validating' under their pic, I guess there is an email that needs answering or something.

Posted

 

...Is there a cheat for aligning the clutch plate or do I have to buy yet another tool that I'll likely use once only.

 

Get a scrap gearbox and take out the first motion shaft  i.e. the bit that goes through the clutch into the flywheel, and use that.

Posted

Is this bit on my profile page misspelt deliberately?

 

 

post-20952-0-28788700-1501879011_thumb.jpg

Posted

Why is Squirrel2 always green?

Squirrel2 has been wondering about that too..

 

It took a few weeks and a couple of emails to the 'Admin' before I was granted access after attempting to register for the forum.

 

There are no unanswered emails as far as I know.

 

Perhaps if one of the moderators sees this they might shed some light on the green squirrel?

 

Thanks,

 

Squirrel2

Posted

I have a Flickr account with loads of old cars/motorcycle pics but have noticed that lately they have been "faved" by loads of young wimmen. Now I am sure they are not in the least interested in my photos of old motorcycle indicators for example so why do they "fave" them?

Spambots probably. You get them on pretty much any site with a heart/star/like button.

Guest Hooli
Posted

Squirrel2 has been wondering about that too..

 

It took a few weeks and a couple of emails to the 'Admin' before I was granted access after attempting to register for the forum.

 

There are no unanswered emails as far as I know.

 

Perhaps if one of the moderators sees this they might shed some light on the green squirrel?

 

Thanks,

 

Squirrel2

 

Might be worth pinging Cavcraft (or another mod/admin) a PM in case they don't see this.

Posted

Get a scrap gearbox and take out the first motion shaft i.e. the bit that goes through the clutch into the flywheel, and use that.

Mustardmitt on my IMPs it was a tube (from my bottle jack) into the spigot + leccy tape for the spline dia.

 

Alright! already ;) ..... I AM A TiteWad lolz

 

 

TS

Posted

Where would you buy your occasional use basic axle stands and trolley jack from?

Posted

Halfords. Jack,creeper,chocks and axle stands for 40 quid with trade discount or 50 full price. Use them a lot no issues.

Posted

Where would you buy your occasional use basic axle stands and trolley jack from?

I have a trolley jack in need of repair that you could have for nowt. I have parts list pdf but that is as far as I got. Also have a surfeit of axle stands.

Posted

My trolley jack was £9.99 from Aldi 10 years ago and is still going strong.

 

 

Does anyone know which OBD2 protocol a petrol Citroën C4 uses?  I have acquired one with the EML on but my code reader won't connect to it - I'm not sure whether this is the car being French or the code reader being Chinese.

Posted

Do new cars still need 'running in'? If so, what are the parameters?

 

And where do I get one of those signs to notify other motorists that that's what I'm doing?

Posted

Do new cars still need 'running in'? If so, what are the parameters?

 

And where do I get one of those signs to notify other motorists that that's what I'm doing?

https://www.theaa.com/car-buying/running-in-a-new-car - Some helpful parameters there from AA

 

As for a sign, I'm fairly certain ebay has some running in stickers to warn others what you're doing. 

Posted

Do new cars still need 'running in'? If so, what are the parameters?

 

And where do I get one of those signs to notify other motorists that that's what I'm doing?

I feel fairly confident in saying that you don't actually need a sign. If you are driving at less than 20 mph over any speed limit the other motorists will just overtake you regardless.

  • Like 1
Posted

Do new cars still need 'running in'? If so, what are the parameters?

 

And where do I get one of those signs to notify other motorists that that's what I'm doing?

Do you intend to keep it for a long long time, if so then just take it easy for the first 500 miles and get the oil/ filter changed.

 

Not keeping it don't bother, have seen brand new straight off the showroom floor bikes ragged stupid at track days with no apparent I'll effects.

  • Like 3
Posted

Apparently not, but there's no harm just going a bit steady for the first 1k or so. I had the oil in my Abarth changed at 2k because I wasn't comfortable with running it for 10k on the oil it was built with. 

TBH manufacturers don't give two shits about what happens after 5 years so even if running something in properly doubled the lifespan of the engine, they still wouldn't recommend it.

Posted

theres alot of chat about hard break in being best - soon as the oil is full temp use the car hard 

 

if i ever had a new car i think i would do a couple of low milage oil n filter changes if it was a keeper

  • Like 1

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